Torgeir
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Posts posted by Torgeir
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Hi @LePaul,
Is this only happen with the Olsson Ruby? Or is this an issue with any nozzle?
Thanks
Torgeir.
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Hi @jfigue.
As @Dustin, said do not try to fix the brand new core, -just replace it.
I've looked a bit more closely to this -and to me it's looking like the heater is twisted about 180 deg.
I've newer seen this heater before and could be a new version..
The heater core have two identically wires marked white and red connected.
Here is two of your pictures with some notes on -that's explain the issue:
The back of the BB Core.
The Head Open Viewing BB Cores Place No 2 (R/H):
As this is the only head that's move when needed, this is a very important issue to check when installing a new core.
(Your original problem was the calibration required when putting a new core into service for a printer.
This process has to be done on any other S model of Ultimaker you'll using with this core, the printer will update "time used" and keep track of the calibration data for this (S/N) core. There might be more data collected in here, -but don't know.)
Thanks
Good luck.
Torgeir
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Hi @jfigue,
Welcome in here.
It looks like this heater is not installed correct, -or the heater element is just too long!
This will probably also interfere with the capacitiv sensor board clip on the r/h side at core B.
Another thing is that this BB core is the one moving up and down, making more bending on the heater wires.
This core does not look right to me, but sure, someone else may comment on this.
Thanks
Torgeir
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Wow,
How to enable VNC control of the touchscreen UI
You need to log in to the printer as root (default password: ultimaker). That means developer mode must be turned on. If you don't already have it turned on, and your display is broken, then I am afraid you are out of luck until you repair the screen.
Two files must be edited. Unless you are the type of person who likes editing files with vi, you may want to install nano:
__________________________________________________________
That's great info.
Thanks
Torgeir
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This one's like a "brand" new.. 🙂
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Hi there.
@gr5 said: "I have 3 um2go's (and a UM3, UM2, and S5) and the "go"s are my most used printers."
For sure, the UM2Go is the printer that does the high numbers of objects needed -the smaller objects that's always are needed by people.
Most of us know this, -and we do not understand why Ultimaker stopped producing this one -and there's still nothing that's matching the Go in mho.
Well, good luck with the printer.
Torgeir
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Hi @Daviren,
If this is the Z stepper, it looks like there have been a loose crimping at this burned contact.
This might be true as the burn mark is high up on the connector.
With the right tool and a new connector this should be an easy fix..
Thanks
Torgeir
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Hi @a4x4girl,
I'll see you have a Creality Ender 3 variant of 3D printer, so I'll think we call for @GregValiant he is the one can answer anything about this printer.
Torgeir
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Hi @a4x4girl,
Welcome in here.
I would say, -to be able to help you, we'll need you to save your model as a project file.
Go to file menu and select save project.. Then share this file with us, -we'll see your object and your printer with the setting you're using in the Cura version used. This is only possible with the project file.
This is really the best way anyone in here can help with your problem.
Here is a lot of people, and sure someone with the printer you're using.
Good luck.
Torgeir
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I bought some spare parts from "Robot Digg".
They have all kind of pulleys and lots of standard parts used in UM2 types.
I've got those marked with 6.5 mm, but they really are more close to 6 mm.
6.5 mm is absolutely max width in those pulleys.
Well, they are here:
https://www.robotdigg.com/product/281/208mm-104-tooth-2GT-closed-loop-belt
Torgeir
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Hi @ihackstuff,
The four long belts are 2GT610-6.5 (610 is length)
The two short are 2GT200
I'll see that this site sell 6 mm wide belts and I tough that the 6.5 meant mm, but they are ONLY 6 mm wide. Just measure mine to be sure..
Torgeir
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Hi @Schmordan,
I'll think this model was created in inch, so I'd imported it into F360 and exported it to Cura "Arachne Beta".
Often when slicing this thin models, it's valuable to turn the model in pitch or yaw plane (using 1 degrade resolution) and you'll see very often that the slicer works much better in viewing small details. Edit: This will also be the position/attitude you have to print the model in.
Here's an example of your model pitched much up, just to fit the platform, but also to see how the slicer act.
It all depend of how this model is to be used. As an object to view or as a model to fly (RC) with?
Here is a picture of the sliced model:
Oh, sure, -it's a single wall that's need infill and outside support.
Here is one project file using UM2E+ and one stl file with the model pitched nose up:
Good luck
Torgeir
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Hi @ihackstuff,
The video contained a combined x/y movement, -would be much better to hear how it sound doing the full square all four sides only. Then it will be easier to hear if it is X or Y as well.. 😉
Thanks (have an UM2E+)
Torgeir
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Hi @cjh83,
I'll say this is absolutely possible to do!
The heath element have no polarity, -so it is also -with the PT100 (the platinum resistor!) 3mm size.
The heater is a 4mm heater, but not quite sure if it's a 35 or 40 W (24VDC) heater, -but sure can find.
But if you're a little handy this is absolutely possible!
This core have a life counter, but this is not an issue for this core.
What data have this core? Size and type please.
We print with thermoplastics in order to make new things -and we print spare parts for many things that cannot be fixed in any other way! So way stop here?
This one is more easy to fix, -so let's fix it!
Thanks
Torgeir
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Hi @cheuschober
As I've been reading through again, about your issues, -cause I could not find any problem with your settings.
Come to think about the belts you have changed, to low tension can create ringing and stretching to much give to high friction (cause the belt do not match the pulleys teeth). Sure I'll doubt that the tension is too high.
The belts is wider in order to handle the heavier mass of the head and shafts in the "new" series of Ultimaker printers.
So for the ringing, the belt might have a "little" to low tension.
So after such a maintenance we'll do some testing to be sure that our printer still is according to its specs.
Finally, there is one other issue to check, -is your nozzle at the proper size?
Nozzles do wear and can be the reason for this issue as it may give a little too high flow when the printer slow down.
I'll think it's a good idea trying to reduce the flow as @PaulKuiper suggest.
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Also, this is not a thing that's normally occurs over night so since the clips are gaping like that this it's maybe something
the servicing department of Ultimaker knows more about?
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Hi @T0pher,
As there is only three adjustment screws, two in the front and a single screw in the back holding the whole heat bed -there is no way the aft adjustment screw can cause this bend!
I have never seen this before, but assume that the glass plate will attach well to the heat plate when the clips is locked.
Do you use hi temp on the bed often and how does it looks on the heat side?
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Hi @cheuschober
I can see that you're using Cura 5.2.1, witch is great for trying out the new functions on your projects.
However, I'll think I would use the last stable old "engine" found in Cura 4.13.1 for calibration of my printer, as this one is proven very accurate over time.
Use standard profiles that's well proven, this will be the better approach for proper calibration.
As this new version of Cura can adjust the line width very much and indeed can influence on a lots of parameters.
This will avoid any conflicts between the new software and the calibration of your printer.
Good luck
Torgeir
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Hi @cheuschober,
You must save this object as a project file, if not it is impossible to see if this is caused by any Cura adjustment.
Also, this object is pretty small, so a better picture may also help.
Thanks
Torgeir
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Hi there,
Well this might be the power supply itself, -or a bad/weak connection on the way to the printers electronics (main PCB).
A too low voltage may shut off the electronics and if the voltage again increase to normal, -the printer looks likes it just switched on again, right? As the heavy ampere load make the voltage drop due to a faulty power supply or wiring weakness, the electronics stop working and turning off the heavy load, then the voltage increase to normal and printer start up again.
If there's a failure in the "electronics" actually the heat bed, that's causing too much power drain to the (external) power supply. In this case the power supply may drop the voltage due to too high current drawn.
I would look for burnt insulation or at the connector / contact block located at the main PCB.
I'll suppose you're talking about the LED light inside the printer?
Make sure that the main connector plug is properly connected into the printer, also, -do you have a green or blue light present steady on the power supply when this happen, -or..?
I would try to find out where the problem is located in these three cases.
Torgeir
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Hi there,
I was "far" away thinking about another problem, -hmm about very detailed, or small object and (as an example) a tiny high wing section for an RC aircraft model.
I found that some small turning around the Z axe of the model often makes wonder of the outcome of slicing.
This is a model without any "leakage" (not water tight -as we say) before start slicing.
Well, just a hint..
Torgeir
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Hi @bsommeri,
Welcome in here.
You give us very little information, -we need to know a lot more in order to give good advice.
So, -we'll like to see your project file. This file giving us your object and all the settings for printing this object.
However, for this problem you may click on your print object so you see that the object is selected (X,Y and Z axis is shown), then select "rotate" at the menu at left side (now you will see circles around these axes) . Be sure to uncheck the "snap rotation". All this is done when your "nnn.stl" model is viewed in "Preview" mode (in your Cura version).
Now, rotate your model around Z axis and see how your model look like for every deg you change.
You'll need to wait until the preview update for any small change you make, try this and see if the missing details appear..
Have a little patience when doing this. 🙂
Sometimes this might help in order to "see the right" triangles in your model.
This small adjustment sometimes help when "those" triangles is not detected as it should be.
Thanks
Torgeir
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Hi @Leggy,
Greg is right, your model is somehow skewed, -and this happen to any of us sometimes.
When you install into another slicer it's approaching the right way "always"..
So, turn your view into the underside of your build place then you can see that the model is not touching all around as is should. If you also look around at the low bed level, turning your object or more correctly your viewing point -you'll see this opening that's making this happen.
Thanks
Torgeir
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Hi @Jaamb,
This latter information do not make sense and made me think here is something more to check.
As you measure power (present voltage) at the switch before switching on, the voltage should be present in on position as well.. I'll presume that the blue (or green) power light on the power supply is still present when printer is switched on, right? There is no reason that the voltage should drop, unless there's is a weak point in the feeding circuit to this switch.
The question is, are you measuring the voltage on the input side (where the voltage come from the power supply) or on the output side of the switch?
Well, -cause there is normally voltage present at both side of this switch when the main PCB is not working.
We're talking about 24 VDC from the external power supply.
Thanks
Torgeir
Dual head Printing problem
in UltiMaker Cura
Posted · Edited by Torgeir
Missing text
Hi @EssJay,
First, we all in here started at some time, with Cura!
People in here, try to answer the question as precise as possible, -not assuming people need more information unless they ask!
Then how this is done, when your model is split into two parts, there is two individual parts and "both" want to go to the build platform when split.
So just grab the jar lid and move it to the side, then you'll see the gasket.
Now you can define nozzle 2 for the gasket.
Next, mark both parts and hold in shift when marking parts.
When those two parts are marked, there will appear three (normally grayed out under Edit ) new selections available.
Select the last one; "Merge Models" -and this selection bring the gasket into place.
Often the model might need to be rearranged on the build plate, depending on the original attitude when made.
Hope this help.
Thanks
Torgeir