Torgeir
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Posts posted by Torgeir
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Also, this is not a thing that's normally occurs over night so since the clips are gaping like that this it's maybe something
the servicing department of Ultimaker knows more about?
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Hi @T0pher,
As there is only three adjustment screws, two in the front and a single screw in the back holding the whole heat bed -there is no way the aft adjustment screw can cause this bend!
I have never seen this before, but assume that the glass plate will attach well to the heat plate when the clips is locked.
Do you use hi temp on the bed often and how does it looks on the heat side?
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Hi @cheuschober
I can see that you're using Cura 5.2.1, witch is great for trying out the new functions on your projects.
However, I'll think I would use the last stable old "engine" found in Cura 4.13.1 for calibration of my printer, as this one is proven very accurate over time.
Use standard profiles that's well proven, this will be the better approach for proper calibration.
As this new version of Cura can adjust the line width very much and indeed can influence on a lots of parameters.
This will avoid any conflicts between the new software and the calibration of your printer.
Good luck
Torgeir
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Hi @cheuschober,
You must save this object as a project file, if not it is impossible to see if this is caused by any Cura adjustment.
Also, this object is pretty small, so a better picture may also help.
Thanks
Torgeir
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Hi there,
Well this might be the power supply itself, -or a bad/weak connection on the way to the printers electronics (main PCB).
A too low voltage may shut off the electronics and if the voltage again increase to normal, -the printer looks likes it just switched on again, right? As the heavy ampere load make the voltage drop due to a faulty power supply or wiring weakness, the electronics stop working and turning off the heavy load, then the voltage increase to normal and printer start up again.
If there's a failure in the "electronics" actually the heat bed, that's causing too much power drain to the (external) power supply. In this case the power supply may drop the voltage due to too high current drawn.
I would look for burnt insulation or at the connector / contact block located at the main PCB.
I'll suppose you're talking about the LED light inside the printer?
Make sure that the main connector plug is properly connected into the printer, also, -do you have a green or blue light present steady on the power supply when this happen, -or..?
I would try to find out where the problem is located in these three cases.
Torgeir
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Hi there,
I was "far" away thinking about another problem, -hmm about very detailed, or small object and (as an example) a tiny high wing section for an RC aircraft model.
I found that some small turning around the Z axe of the model often makes wonder of the outcome of slicing.
This is a model without any "leakage" (not water tight -as we say) before start slicing.
Well, just a hint..
Torgeir
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Hi @bsommeri,
Welcome in here.
You give us very little information, -we need to know a lot more in order to give good advice.
So, -we'll like to see your project file. This file giving us your object and all the settings for printing this object.
However, for this problem you may click on your print object so you see that the object is selected (X,Y and Z axis is shown), then select "rotate" at the menu at left side (now you will see circles around these axes) . Be sure to uncheck the "snap rotation". All this is done when your "nnn.stl" model is viewed in "Preview" mode (in your Cura version).
Now, rotate your model around Z axis and see how your model look like for every deg you change.
You'll need to wait until the preview update for any small change you make, try this and see if the missing details appear..
Have a little patience when doing this. 🙂
Sometimes this might help in order to "see the right" triangles in your model.
This small adjustment sometimes help when "those" triangles is not detected as it should be.
Thanks
Torgeir
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Hi @Leggy,
Greg is right, your model is somehow skewed, -and this happen to any of us sometimes.
When you install into another slicer it's approaching the right way "always"..
So, turn your view into the underside of your build place then you can see that the model is not touching all around as is should. If you also look around at the low bed level, turning your object or more correctly your viewing point -you'll see this opening that's making this happen.
Thanks
Torgeir
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Hi @Jaamb,
This latter information do not make sense and made me think here is something more to check.
As you measure power (present voltage) at the switch before switching on, the voltage should be present in on position as well.. I'll presume that the blue (or green) power light on the power supply is still present when printer is switched on, right? There is no reason that the voltage should drop, unless there's is a weak point in the feeding circuit to this switch.
The question is, are you measuring the voltage on the input side (where the voltage come from the power supply) or on the output side of the switch?
Well, -cause there is normally voltage present at both side of this switch when the main PCB is not working.
We're talking about 24 VDC from the external power supply.
Thanks
Torgeir
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Hi @TomKamphuys,
Welcome in here.
Please tell us what printer you you're using as someone with the same printer may give additional info about this.
It's hard to give any advice here, but save your model as a "project" file. Use the "file pane" in upper left corner and share this file with us. (This file will contain your model and the setting's in Cura.)
Then sure, someone will try to help you.
Thanks
Torgeir
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Welcome in here.
I've read your story in here and I'll think several see some part of their approach into the 3d world like you describe.
As you mention version 3.6 of Cura, I can say that's the version is also the one I'm using for RC stuff or tiny models. For sure, I'm using -even an older versions of Cura as well!
I do not think there is any other slicer, that’s has been developed with so many editions over such a short time as Cura.
Just now I'm on a vacation at the Canary Island (west of Africa), so I'm far from my 3d printer's.
Hopefully we can print that wing profile -after some attempt.. And save the settings.
But I'm in holyday mode, so it may take some time.
Thanks
Torgeir
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Hi @FLESKET2000,
Great job and good feedback.
I'll think 305 mm is good and makes a good overlap for the Z clearance when printing at max height.
Thanks
Torgeir
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Hi @FLESKET2000,
Thanks.
Missed steps happen when the print head hit a sudden stop, then the stepper motor skip back and "try" again and again until the number of steps it should go is done. The firmware do not have any control of the position, so it will just go on printing further on the object offset in the air. (This mean that the printer is out of synch and the printing must be aborted. If you do this, the printer will home all axis, assuming they all might be in outer extreme position. When you then restart for another print all axes are synchronized.)
So when the printer hit something, this may often lead to missed steps and it makes a lot of noise.
The stepper motors torque is adjusted by the current feed to the motor.
Note: The setscrew for the Z axis need to be (filed) rounded off after the cutting, if not the repeated bed position may vary a little from time to time. This as the sharp cut may slide off the lip differently for time to time and cause some height differences. So if you use manual bed adjustment, this might cause some problem.
This screw can be adjusted from top by using a hex tool, but may also contain a lock nut to prevent the screw from turning and de adjusting over time.
I would turn on the printer and "home" the bed, make the bed to go to start position the position that make the highest object. Set the right core in down position and measure the height from the glass plate and straight up (90 deg.,) to nozzle 2. This height should be at least 300 mm.
Hmm 295 mm is just 5 mm from the max height, so some fine tuning might help if this is close.
(This test will answer if the height is too low.)
Hope this help.
Good luck.
Torgeir
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Hi there.
Just come to think about an issue with two of the "late" firmware versions for the 3S and 5S printer's, as a few people lately complained about the bed leveling.
See this:
Bed leveling reliability
Ultimaker S-line firmware versions 7.0.4 and 7.1.0 contained an error in the bed leveling code. This caused an increase in failed bed leveling attempts when starting a print, while the hardware was working perfectly fine. This 7.1.3 release fixes the issue and significantly improves bed leveling performance.
Here's the direct link:
https://support.makerbot.com/s/article/1667410781982
Just to be mentioned.
Thanks
Torgeir
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Hi @FLESKET2000,
Normally we ask for the firmware version you are using on the UM3E, then the version of Cura and the gcode of the model to see if the gcode is doing this.
Could this be something with the new Cura? -Or, are you using the old version Cura? Further, could this be a firmware/hardware failure -or is this caused by a "plugin" module?
There is plenty of combinations here.
However, when the head collided with the print, you could hear the there was missinig steps, also the Z axe made a synch when hitting the bottom Z end switch.
Have you ever printed this model before without any issue, or did this happened just the first time you printed this object?
If your printer still have this problem, the information about firmware/Cura version and the gcode is needed to go any further.
Thanks
Torgeir
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Does this happen only when printing close to the max height?
This is some strange, to me it seems that the print is not finished and at next move down (to print a layer more) the Z down switch is hitted/activated.
This will move up the bed to the start position (thats is located in to high pos).
I'll think the Z end stop switch is a little to high adjusted and this will be an issue when printing object close to max height.
Thanks
Torgeir
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Hi @AddMan,
Yes, for sure Nylon is the filament to use if you need something that do not just break off..
I'll think this is among the toughest filament there is.Well for Taluman you'll need PVA "sluss" deluted.. I've reading in here that Ultimaker Nylon stick very hard to the bed and may be very hard to remove without loosing some chips from the bed.
But in this case it is also good to use PVA to avoid this hard "stickness".
To loosen up PVA attached object, put the whole thing (with bed) into a water bath of approx 40 deg. C. and leave it there for some time. After 30-45 min use a tiny spatel to carefully split the object from the bed, just a little by time.
This have allways worked for me.
If your printer is to be used, -another bed is handy then.
It's not difficoult, but take's some time.
Thanks
Torgeir
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Hi @Fisher14,
Welcome in here.
Sure we all started at some point, so have a look at this video, this will give you the basic thing you need to know about first. There is plenty of things about all this, but this is a good beginning.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t2L-x0CcIYM
Good luck.
Thanks
Torgeir
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Hi @AddMan,
I'll share some pictures of this project, but first something to explain.
This was about how to get the object to stick to the bed, tryed just a clean bed (using the UM 2E+ for this).
The Taluman3D bridge nylon was not that easy to bond properly to the bed, after lots of test with glue sticks etc., I ended up using diluted PVA glue (the carpenters wood glue). Diluted 1 part glue into 12 part of water mixed well.
I've used a flat foam brush about 1.5 inc wide, this makes it easy to make a nice surface of deluted glue.
Before spreading the glue, i've use to heat the bed to about 40 deg. C. I'd use to cover up twice of the space I'll need on the bed.
After first layer is dried, it allmost disappear, but wait ultil all is glue are dried. Then redo this process until you have at least four layers of diluted glue. Then you should be ready for first print.
The pictures here is from the first test with the object as it originally looked, however I realized this bearing needed some redesign.
So this is the first picture of the two variants made:
Here you see the warping as the model lifted off the bed. The left one is how the original was made, here with PLA.
Number two:
Same from another angle.
Number three:
There was a few more inbetween, but..
Number four:
After printer finished.
Number five:
Inserted into the "propeller".
This is just some general thing, but might help some.
Here's two liks to annealing nylon and PLA you may find interessting.
https://www.plasticsintl.com/media/wysiwyg/Nylon___Reinforced_Nylon_Annealing.pdf
https://www.fargo3dprinting.com/annealing-makes-3d-prints-better/
Good luck
Torgeir
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Hi @AddMan,
Well, I've actually made some parts for our "old" dishwasher (the first mode here in Scandinavia using a microprocessor!). Sure it's still working strong and bought in 1983.
A few parts may be very easy to print and use. But inside the washing cabinet we'll need some tough filament.
I've been experimenting with a few types, but only one really stand the test -and this is Nylon!
I'm using Nylon from Taulman3D, that is Bridge Nylon 2.85 mm Natural.
You may find some special types, certified for medical or food usage so there is a lots to choose between.
So to the part I've printed for our dishwasher, this is the upper bearing for the water spreding "propeller". This dishwaser deal with 70 degrease Celsius water during the process. But worse is the drying sequence, about 15 minute and water damp up to 90 degrease Celsius(!) and this is the absolute worst periode for this bearing to survive.
The challance here is to design the part so it's strong in the direction needed to be and also dimensioned so it fit properly into the place it's used! You may install parts when they have a temperature thats softend the object a "little".
This will make it possible to install more easely like "to snap it on", I.E. you may not be able to removit after cooling down.
Printing with Taulman Bridge; printing temperature ca. 255 deg C. bed temperature 50 deg. C.
I'm using draft shield, see experimantal phane. The printer is closed in completly, no cooling fan for the printing object.
The very important here is to make sure all layers are completely glued and infill 100%!
Important thing is to find the temperatur making the best "gluing" and with less stringing. There may be a little stringing, but should be easy to remove.
After printing the model/object, you should not be able to tear of any part from the object! If you do, you have to lo printing temperature and gluing is not as it should be.
Nylon is superstrong and you'll ned a real good cutter to part it up!
I have some picture of the project, if it's of interesst.
Thanks
Torgeir
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Hi @Maptogram,
welcome in here.
Wow, what a great print, very nice!
So to the questions, what sort of printer did you use -and what kind of slicer?
Thanks
Torgeir
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Hi @mark269,
aha understood, well it is the ground side that¨is controlling the speed of those two fans.
This is indeed a good sign somehow.
If there is a constantly ground at the minus side of the fans, this will happend.
Actually such a short would not destroy your mother board!
But there is a change there is a constant ground present at the negative side of the fans.
Edit: There is allways 24VDC present when the power is on, but the ground side is controlled by the mother board. The board adjust the current to pass through here, hence controlling the fan speed.
There should be no ground present at the minus side when the connector for those two fan is removed.
It is very important to not try to move change anything in the wiring path, as this can "remove" the failure temporarly, to return later.. There might be a ground short somewhere, Did you have any issuer requiring repair in the head lately? I'll ask this because often after maintenance or repair such thing often happen.
The id for this voltage is VCC/2 and is 24 VDC. So the two 12 VDC fan are connected in serial.
So, the minus wire (connected to J14 pin 2) might be grounded all the time -or the driver transistor controlling the current is shorted.
This transistor is T1 P/N: BC817.
So this wire might be shorted to ground at some place -or the transistor T1 on the main board is shorted (internally shorted).
Good luck.
Thanks
Torgeir
Does this problem have a name?
in Improve your 3D prints
Posted
Hi @cheuschober
As I've been reading through again, about your issues, -cause I could not find any problem with your settings.
Come to think about the belts you have changed, to low tension can create ringing and stretching to much give to high friction (cause the belt do not match the pulleys teeth). Sure I'll doubt that the tension is too high.
The belts is wider in order to handle the heavier mass of the head and shafts in the "new" series of Ultimaker printers.
So for the ringing, the belt might have a "little" to low tension.
So after such a maintenance we'll do some testing to be sure that our printer still is according to its specs.
Finally, there is one other issue to check, -is your nozzle at the proper size?
Nozzles do wear and can be the reason for this issue as it may give a little too high flow when the printer slow down.
I'll think it's a good idea trying to reduce the flow as @PaulKuiper suggest.