kmanstudios

What were your settings? I can upload a Gcode or project file if you like Also, in my cura (2.5) I have every control exposed and some strange tweaks...maybe. Also, just finished putting on the markers for the large model (14"/355.6mm).

:angry:

Now the spam is getting to be from people like you see on some 'comments' sections. You know, the ones that are telling everybody how lonely they are and looking forward to hooking up and stuff. They tried to start here and they took it down very quickly. But, it would seem youmagine is not policed regularly.

I am thinking of doing that for the large model. For the small one, I avoided it because I figured it would be obtrusive. and, yeah, some of the models from there are not so great. I have spent a lot of time fixing models to the point I would rather make them. Give this one a shot to see what you think

Cool And, I do not care where it comes from, I like the great minds thing I am taking my large one and cutting it up into sections that can be 'tongue and groove' (I think that is correct...more like joining pins between parts) and the printed inexhaustibly large as well. When I say big, I mean at 45° on the UM3, 1/4 of the saucer just fits LOL It also means that it will not/should not need support. The only thing is that I have to finish up my cinnamon box to help quit smoking. blechhh...... I'll post some screen shots whenever I get a bit of sleep. Putting the 3D print portfolio together to try and get work. Ugggghhhhh...... I just checked a dimension....the saucer, when put together would be 17.3 inches/439.2mm measured port to starboard. That be left to right fer all ye landlubbers.....

And, I just went and looked and it is really covered again.....:( And there IS a Skype Spam posting!!!!

Actually, there was new spam today. I 'created and issue' and it was removed post haste. LOL It was some router support company. Two separate postings. In the issue I created I said that 'Monty Python had nothing on them with the SPAM'. LOL OK...if you do not know that means, then search monty python spam....

OK, this thing (Small version) is up now on Youmagine https://www.youmagine.com/designs/uss-enterprise-original-series and 3D Prints here: https://ultimaker.com/en/community/prints/33286-uss-enterprise-for-small-print And Thingiverse: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2267889 Thingiverse has the high-rez model available. Youmagine just sat there spinning. It is a big file. So, you can get both files if you like. The large rez version does require some power. The small version does have the same details, just a slight bit crunchier in corners.

I have not gotten around to the large Enterprise yet or done anymore on the Polycarbonate tests this last week. And with good reason. I've been trying to quit smoking. Now, it is not the addiction that kills me. It is the habit, the routine, the hand to mouth. After about 3 days nicotine is out of your system. But not the habit. Ergo, I am replacing that part with Cinnamon Toothpicks I am making with cinnamon oils and, well, toothpicks. If you make them and leave them out, the flavor just goes away. So I made my own container this week to hold and carry them like a pack of cigarettes. Much healthier, and, I will betcha, bunches better breath So, after a buncha trial and error here....we....go.... It is a two color nylon print, so had to use the supports of nylon. Once I got the hang of that, they were not hard to remove, and no need for a priming tower. Right out of the printer and still in the ooze shield: And right out of the ooze shield. Slid right out Here you can see the underside with the support structure in place. The shiny, plastic looking sheeting is the PVA slurry I recycle. Held the nylon down quite well. This is the interior of the support structure before removing from the container interior. I made the design to be a nylon casing with PETG sleeves to keep the nylon from absorbing the cinnamon oil. You can see that the ooze shield did not stop all the 'color bleed' from one nozzle to the other on the Red and White nylon container. This is them side by side: Loaded up with Toothpicks and ready to keep that oral fixation at bay With the top snapped closed. That was the toughest part. Having played with living hinges in theory and test prints, it is different to make a functioning, snap top that closes properly. A lot of test prints. And from the side. These were the test prints at 0.2MM. The sleeves do not need to be any more refined, but I am printing out the nylon box at 0.6MM just so that, I hope, it really cleans up nicely. That will take about 24 hours, provided there are no errors or air printing or whatnot. But, I had to get this done as I really need to quit smoking. As soon as this is done, back on to the large Enterprise and then more Polycarbonate printing/testing/support tests. I am bit stoked about the support tests as I got a bit of a hang with the non-PVA supports being easy to remove.

I am glad you found the solution that works. That is most important!!

It is just idiots who think they can advertise anywhere. I thought the valentine's thing was some sort of 3D printed wreath and then the next image was a city photo that looked like a bad postcard. I could see it if they had stuff they designed for 3D prints.....to a degree. But posting the facebook and phone number, etc. Just wonks who want to spam as much as possible. And, possibly a spam bot too.

My bad...I did mean the Isopropyl. DurrrhhhhhhLOL My favorite method of adhesion is recycled PVA. So far, it has worked well, even up to 100° C.

Sorry to tell you this, but Meshmixer is an Autodesk tool too...but at least it's free. :( :(:(:( Wonder how long the Free part will last with those clowns. From what I heard, the main developer of Meshmixer left the company, but they have had a couple of version releases since then recently. Some of the functionality has been incorporated into ReMake, but that's not as easy to use--and costs money. I hope Autodesk keeps their maker-oriented free tools available, but I've already seen some of them being discontinued, such as the 123Dapp site. They have a very bad habit of doing that. Their innovation has gone downhill for years and their yearly "upgrades" barely qualify as a point release by most standards. They also acquire products, fold them in, and then never upgrade them again. Take the 'Canvas' feature in 3DS MAX. Put it in and never made it better. It was low grade quality when it was implemented and poorly integrated, and it never got upgraded. And when their subscription model means half the price of the product per year, it is time to look for alternatives. for instance, MudBox..... 3D Coat is far superior in every way. And, wow of wows....you actually own it and get to participate, freely in their beta development much like here. And, oh mercy me, 3D Coat is responsive and no excuses! I reported bugs to them for years, then met a rep and told him. His response, apparently not big enough to warrant paying attention to. As if actually fixing a problem was too much trouble. And the fact that it is nearly 30 year old architecture, it is beginning to creak and crumble, hence forth the constant fixes. I was an Autodesk Certified Instructor, which means I loved the software at one point. But, now.....sigh....... I now support the little guys because they are like the software companies of the old days. Energetic and responsive. Just like here.

Sorry to tell you this, but Meshmixer is an Autodesk tool too...but at least it's free. :( :( :( :( Wonder how long the Free part will last with those clowns.

Went to look at 3D Prints and the same good folks that think spamming a 3D print site like Youmagine was not enough, they hit the main forum's 3D print page. sigh.......

I have not tried geert_2's method of salt yet, so I cannot comment. But I will strongly echo the clean glass statement. I go the extra step (because I am not using salt or tested the method yet) of cleaning with alcohol. Then I put on my special Papa K's Slurry slush. And when a print comes off that does not pull up the slurry, I will still wipe the surface gently with alcohol (right over the PVA slurry). Basic over the counter, 79 - 99 % pure. I always use the highest grade I can get locally just to cut down on contaminants.

Not too shabby

If nothing has changed, assuming all other factors are the same (adhesion, temps, etc.) and the Nylon is the same, I would think that maybe an environmental factor may be involved as well. Or, is it a new batch of Nylon? We had a humid weekend here last week and it made my PVA not want to stick to plastics. Did ok on the glass bed, but a trial run just got worse and worse as the humidity got to it. I could hear the cracking of the filament grow as the night progressed. Nylon absorbs moisture a lot too. Sometimes I hear it crackle :(

I have used good old fashioned Testors modeling glue as well as some of the others mentioned. It is a welding agent, but can be messy if you are not used to it. Not a fast dry though. No burns or other issues so far. Even worked with Ultimaker nylon But, types of PLA, environment and other issues can cause any glue to fail. Prep is everything.

That is good to know as I am moving away from Autodesk in all its varied forms.

Are you in the Border Suboject mode of Editable poly? And make sure you use the transform gizmo arrows. This will keep you from selecting or deselecting as well as lock the motion into the direction you want to move in. A border is just a special instance of edges where it surrounds a hole. To get a feel, try just clicking on a box (one you make) and do the shift/transform cloning action. It works exactly the same. What version are you on?

Wow...it really is bad. I went there today to look at a print and took a while to find it from all that mess that has nothing to do with 3D printing. Just so-so cartoon art. And, no, I am not a snob. I love comics and am a cartoonist at heart meself.

Default speeds and such are good starting points. But so many things can affect the print quality in areas. Filament changes, environmental changes such as temp and humidity changes. Just try cutting back the infill speed. Make sure your infill type is not too thin by way of too large of steps and such (Again, the cubic/tetrahedral thingy). Make a simple cube or two for fast testing and see how the infill starts to change.

Oh, you are quite welcome. Please feel free to message me if you have any questions. I am a fountain of information and BS LOL... But, I seriously do know 3DS MAX inside out and am always happy to share knowledge. Or, just ask here so everyone can benefit....