Closed TOP surfaces

[esteban-pacheco 33]

Hello Forum, can someone Help me? I'm having problems with the top layers of my prints, they seems not completely close... in Some areas its closed, other not completely... its a kind of WEIRD RANDOM behaviour, sometimes.. I'm using enough infill (26) and printing at 0.1mm, and I'm using 10 layers (1.0 mm) top layer thickness

i have readed, it can be under extrusion, but i've not new nozzles, new bowden, new feeder, my Pulleys are ok, and the belts are thight, and the whole system is oiled....

i also readed it has to be with the steps in E ( don't know what that is)... so if anybody has an Idea, how to solve this, ill be really happy... because this is keeping my mind occupied since 4 months or so....

thanks...

[neotko 1,417]

Post you material, speed, a photo also. And check the ptfe just in case.

[esteban-pacheco 33]

Post you material, speed, a photo also. And check the ptfe just in case.

 

PTFE is new, ALL IS NEW, I ordered new Noozles, new Bowden, New Heat Cartridge, New Temp Sensor, New PTFE, NEW spring, (the complete hot end is new) in other words, all you can change has been ordered (not the belts because they're in good condition), all is oiled... and I'm still having problems..

ill post a foot soon, i've been working on this model for weeks and i cannot get it as i want

[jonnybischof 60]

Maybe you have unchecked the "solid infill top" setting in Cura?

Happens to me all the time...

I found Cura's standard 0.6mm top / bottom thickness to be too little. But your 1.0mm setting should be more than enough, especially with 26% infill.

Do you have very high ambient tempearture ( 30°C+) ? Could also be that your stepper motors are overheating from such a high ambient temperature. But that would not only affect the top covering, but the whole print...

http://ultimaker.com/en/community/view/16631-summer-time

Edited July 4, 2015 by Guest

[neotko 1,417]

Summer indeed. I had to turn the airconditioner on the umo+ room. Also assembling x2 new umo+ to start a production. I had problems because the hear but with a minimun air moving on the mainboard area everything got back to work flawlessly.

Edited July 4, 2015 by Guest

[esteban-pacheco 33]

[media=3357][/media]

"filled Infill Top"is checked... and this problem was also on winter... so, whats can be happening?

[neotko 1,417]

Oh I had this problem just 2 weeks ago. For my the solution was at http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide#circles

I just had to tighten the short belt motors, also did a full maintenance and the problem fixed it. Now I'm having a problem of banana rods but that's another history...

[neotko 1,417]

Grr the forum dosn't allow me to edit the post... ok.. umm I just wanted to add this:

Btw I know your problem looks like under-extrusion, mine did also. But when you read the 'lines' not touching, it fits. At least it did for me. Now my surfaces are perfectly closed, and I only use 3 top layers (at 0.2 print)

[esteban-pacheco 33]

well, the show belts ARE Tight! completely Tight! i also used that site to look for answers...

and what do you mean by  "FULL maintenance"?

UNDER EXTRUSION???  I Have a brand new nozzle! all is new.. how come i can have under extrusion? everything the whole hot end!

when doing circles the are just perfect...

Edited July 4, 2015 by Guest

[neotko 1,417]

No I mean that that looks like but doesn't seems to be. It's not lines touching. Push the motor down like the page says and tight the screw. It worked for me...

[esteban-pacheco 33]

so note describe please how you managed to solve your problem...

[neotko 1,417]

That also can happen if the filament it's smaller that the setting. Try to meassure it just in case. I had something alike with a chinesepla. With colorfabb or faderdashery it never happens. Get a caliper and check the gilament to see its width and measure it on different points to make a row nd number to change the slicer configuration.

[neotko 1,417]

My lines not touching problem. I solved it by unscrewing the short belt motor and unscrewing the shaft. Then I pushed it down, screwed all back. Just like the page says.

[esteban-pacheco 33]

well my step motors are ALL the way down... maybe time to change belts?

[neotko 1,417]

I wish I could have an answer to that...

[esteban-pacheco 33]

well they're ok

[gr5 2,267]

"filled Infill Top"is checked... and this problem was also on winter... so, whats can be happening?

 

Looking at your photo it could be either underextrusion or just not enough "top" layers.  Please post *all* your settings.  Particularly interested in: nozzle size, shell width, print speed, infill speed, inner shell speed, top/bottom thickness, layer height, spiralize.

Also I need to know your printing temperature.

So for example if you set shell width to 0.9 or 0.7 that would explain what I see.  Or if you are printnig infill at an extra high speed (causing underextrusion) or if you are printing too cold, or if your layer height is say 0.1mm but your top thickness is only .2mm.

More info...

 

Here are my recommended top speeds for .2mm layers (twice as fast for .1mm layers):20mm/sec at 200C30mm/sec at 210C40mm/sec at 225C50mm/sec at 240CThe printer can do double these speeds but with huge difficulty and usually with a loss in part quality due to underextrusion. Different colors print best at quite different temperatures and due to imperfect temp sensors, some printers print 10C cool so use these values as an initial starting guideline and if you are still underextruding try raising the temp. But don't go over 240C with PLA.

 

So if your temp is 210C, layer height is .2mm and infill speed is 50mm/sec that would explain it your issue also.

Edited July 4, 2015 by Guest

[esteban-pacheco 33]

i changed almost all parts (i got a COMPLETE hot end, a new bowden, a new feeder, a new PTFE), how can i have UNDEREXTRUSION?

this printer is making  me nuts...

Im not using strange settings:

Im using the same speed on EVERYTHING (outer shell, infill, inner shell, everywhere)

Material And Temperature

Material = Colorfabb Blueish White (2.85 mm)

Temperature © = 215

Quality:

Layer Height (mm) = 0.1

Shell thickness (mm) = 1.2

enable retraction =  check

Fill

Bottom / Top thickness (mm) = 1

Fill Density (%) = 26

Speed and Temperature

Print speed (mm/s) = 50

Support

Support type = Everywhere

Platform adhesion type = none

Machine

Nozzle size (mm) = 0.4

Quality

Initial layer thickness (mm) = 0.3

Initial layer width (%) = 100

Cut off object bottom (mm) = 0.0

Dual extrusion overlap (mm) = 0.15

Speed

Travel speed (mm/s) = 90

Bottom layer speed (mm/s) = 20

Infill speed (mm/s) = 0

Top/bottom speed (mm/s) = 0

Outer shell speed (mm/s) = 0

Inner shell speed (mm/s) = 0

Cool

Minimal layer time (sec) = 10

Enable cooling fan = check

Edited July 5, 2015 by Guest

[danilius 118]

If you post your print file (the STL or whatever you have) then I will open it in CURA, generate g-code for you and return you the g-code for you to try. That will eliminate a major area of problems.

[esteban-pacheco 33]

theres a similar topic, I've reader it completely but theres no solution or conclusion for this issue.

https://ultimaker.com/en/troubleshooting/view/6375-top-layers-not-touching-um2

[gr5 2,267]

All of those settings look fine. It would be best to post them all though. Not to type them in one at a time but to post the ini file for them (which version of Cura are you using)? I guess the only ones that could cause what you see that are left over are "flow" on the printer, the top infill not checked off.

Well if it were me I would test the feeder at this point and also check the temperature. These tests are involved but worth it to limit the problem to a particular area. Also if it were me I would do a quick change of the nozzle just in case it has some kind of partial clog and because I have an olsson block that's very easy to do. Anyway:

https://ultimaker.com/en/community/view/5222-pulling-force-of-um-extruder

 

[johank 7]

Have you tried using another type of filament, Ultimaker PLA white for instance? I would recommend you give it a try.

[esteban-pacheco 33]

I also have an OLSSON BLOCK... and the nozzles ARE NEW

[esteban-pacheco 33]

All of those settings look fine.  It would be best to post them all though.  Not to type them in one at a time but to post the ini file for them (which version of Cura are you using)? I guess the only ones that could cause what you see that are left over are "flow" on the printer, the top infill not checked off.

Well if it were me I would test the feeder at this point and also check the temperature.  These tests are involved but worth it to limit the problem to a particular area.  Also if it were me I would do a quick change of the nozzle just in case it has some kind of partial clog and because I have an olsson block that's very easy to do.

 

I also have an OlsonBlock, brand new, and brand new Nozzles, ill be posting the STL and Ini Files tonight.

whats that "flow on the Printer" youre talking about? the flow Rate?

the only Thing i havent changed still is the Temp sensor....

Edited July 6, 2015 by Guest

[jonnybischof 60]

Just a detail, but you should increase your travel speed.

The higher the difference between printing speed and travel speed, the better. Much less oozing and stringing that way.

I'd recommend 150 mm/s travel speed. Faster is possible, but I like to keep speeds to a minimum on my UMO.

/edit:

If your UMO has problems with 150mm/s travel speed, then you should inspect your gantry. Everything perfectly rectangular? shafts oiled?

Edited July 6, 2015 by Guest