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Hi, yes it is pressure sensitive and tilt sensitive, and has very little lag in zbrush. Photoshop is another story regarding lag....but i didnt buy it for photoshop! Like i said its not a perfect mqxhine, byt It has all the functions of a regular wacom tablet. Ill do a little video of a sculpt where you actually see my hand drawing next...hmm what to draw.?

 

By the way you dont need a tablet computer to draw stuff like this but a wacom or any other pen input is essential. You are just not gonna be able to do this with a mouse. Well not quickly anyway!!! Tilt is irrelevant to me but pressure sensitivity is needed for variation though. 

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On 11/10/2018 at 7:08 PM, kmanstudios said:

...Heat gunning the crap outta it right now.

DSC03068.thumb.jpg.774f12055e0bd86b96a6a2dd270ed4f6.jpg

 

 

Found a picture of the old heatgun. On this sort of plastic, which is vacuum thermoformed over a gypsum model, you could get a very nice gloss with the heat gun. The edges were first cut with special scissors, then shaped with a Dremel-like tool, and then heat-gunned.

 

gas_heatgun.thumb.jpg.42fef1b5f63cf3aec73015c46f83e304.jpg

 

Our model-edges were a lot thicker than yours. So in your case the balance between smoothing the edges only, and melting and destroying the whole thing, will be much more critical. This was about the distance we used, ca. 5mm.

 

This brand of gun was not very good: it was too hard to light. Today, I can't even get it started anymore, even not with a flame or bunsen burner. Seems like the catalyst has burned up...

 

 

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2 hours ago, geert_2 said:

 

Found a picture of the old heatgun. On this sort of plastic, which is vacuum thermoformed over a gypsum model, you could get a very nice gloss with the heat gun. The edges were first cut with special scissors, then shaped with a Dremel-like tool, and then heat-gunned.

 

gas_heatgun.thumb.jpg.42fef1b5f63cf3aec73015c46f83e304.jpg

 

Our model-edges were a lot thicker than yours. So in your case the balance between smoothing the edges only, and melting and destroying the whole thing, will be much more critical. This was about the distance we used, ca. 5mm.

 

This brand of gun was not very good: it was too hard to light. Today, I can't even get it started anymore, even not with a flame or bunsen burner. Seems like the catalyst has burned up...

 

 

This actually really good to know as I am starting to vacuum form over prints to get clean windows for my models. Using PETG for the most part as a forming plastic.

 

My heat gun is hot air from my SMD work station and it can get hot, but not as hot as a flame.

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2 hours ago, kmanstudios said:

This actually really good to know as I am starting to vacuum form over prints to get clean windows for my models. Using PETG for the most part as a forming plastic.

 

My heat gun is hot air from my SMD work station and it can get hot, but not as hot as a flame.

 

The SMD heat gun can melt solder, so it could work for this too. Definitely worth trying. Try setting it at maximum temperature, and a low airflow (if adjustable), and apply from a very close distance, but for a very short time.

 

The blue material we used was fairly soft, and feels a bit like vinyl, or like soft PVC tubing. The gun worked well on old PVC drink bottles too. Not sure if it will work for PET, since PET bottles are much harder to melt and form: it doesn't melt as locally as PVC. PVC-bottles had a small transition temp range from hard to molten, so it would very suddenly melt where heat was applied, while the rest stayed stiff. But PET has a much wider transition temp range in which is it rather rubber-like, and even when molten it doesn't really flow like a liquid.

 

Polystyrene might also be an option, like in model airplanes and HO-scale trains and houses. This is commonly used for packaging and drink cups too. PLA could also be an option, if you can find that in sheets. Some of the drink cups we had here, were PLA, so it must exist somewhere.

 

Probably you know, but for good vacuum forming, provide enough holes in the mould model, so the air can escape when sucking vacuum. Otherwise the molten plate will not get into the details and you get bubbles. Don't ask how I know.   :-)

 

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6 minutes ago, geert_2 said:

Don't ask how I know.   :-)

I do know....At least for me....I made that mistake and learned very quickly how to put in air holes that did not get into the visible parts.

 

The windows and other clear parts are vacuum formed. It was the windows I found out about making proper holes.....

SpacePatrol.thumb.jpg.403e6cabd34d92069321286a25e743ef.jpg

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56 minutes ago, cloakfiend said:

and polished of course..

IMG_8103.JPG

IMG_8117.JPG

IMG_8124.JPG

IMG_8121.JPG

 

This one looks way bigger than he is. Impressive.

 

Out of curiosity: when sculpting faces, do you usually keep left/right symmetry on, as in the video a few posts above? If you switch symmetry off, can you later switch it on again, without destroying the model? How does it react then?

 

Then just a remark: on the test models I acetoned a month ago (also orange colorFabb PLA/PHA), at the beginning I noticed nothing special, apart from the nice smoothing of course. But a week later, I saw that in very thin areas the bottom had gotten deformed a little bit, with slight indentations and wrinkles. Like model airplanes or HO-scale houses can sometimes deform too after using too much glue containing xylene (a long time ago, I don't know if they still contain xylene, as it may cause cancer).

 

Also, my testmodels tended to curl up a tiny bit, only 0.5mm, but still visible. They were sort of rulers, 10cm long x 10mm wide x 3mm high. So the acetone seems to penetrate deeper and work longer than we might think. Haven't you had problems with that?

 

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Well regarding warping a quick brush usually means you should be ok compared to a dunk. I did see a few tiny splits on this one so 192 degrees for 0.06 layer height might be pushing it 193 should be fine. I have little to no issues tegarding warping. Don't reapply but remember that long thin things need special attention when acetoning. To prevent them from warping you need enough to coat the surface but not too much to soak in which causes the warping as it evaporates out after.

 

And when it comes to face modelling or any modelling that involves symmetry then as soon as you switch it off it just builds on whatever is there you can turn it on and off as much as you like it just means you draw symmetrically regardless of what you are drawing on.. You cant go back to pure symmetry unless you just split it in half and re mirror it to restore symmetry. You can also move the model and as long as the polygons on either side are symmetrical (which often isnt the case in dynamesh) then you can even draw in symmetry ovrer a posed model in an unsymetrical pose. I tend to switch off symmetry once im happy with the basic face. 

 

The best feature is the undo history. You can go back as far as you want if you arent happy with your progress and try something new. I start low and increase mesh count according to the amount of detail i need. This face is a nice and managable 200k polys undecimated. I rarely decimate my models due to the methods i use to make them. Which make them nice to 3d print. 

 

I'll make a new thread about how i do things in zbrush if you want?

 

Fresh acetone is best, but used acetone also has its benefits.

Edited by cloakfiend
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15 minutes ago, cloakfiend said:

Well regarding warping a quick brush usually means you should be ok compared to a dunk. I did see a few tiny splits on this one so 192 degrees for 0.06 layer height might be pushing it 193 should be fine. I have little to no issues tegarding warping. Don't reapply but remember that long thin things need special attention when acetoning. To prevent them from warping you need enough to coat the surface but not too much to soak in which causes the warping as it evaporates out after.

 

And when it comes to face modelling or any modelling that involves symmetry then as soon as you switch it off it just builds on whatever is there. You cant go back unless you just split it in half and re mirror it to restore symmetry. You can also move the model and as long as the polygons on either side are symmetrical (which often isnt the case in dynamesh) then you can even draw in symmetry ovrer a posed model in an unsymetrical pose. I tend to switch off symmetry once im happy with the basic face. 

 

The best feature is the undo history. You can go back as far as you want if you arent happy with your progress and try something new. I start low and increase mesh count according to the amount of detail i need. This face is a nice and managable 200k polys undecimated. I rarely decimate my models due to the methods i use to make them. Which make them nice to 3d print. 

 

I'll make a new thread about how i do things in zbrush if you want?

 

Fresh acetone is best, but used acetone also has its benefits.

 

I am totally happy with the current answer, so for me you don't have to make another Zbrush-video. Thanks.

 

I was just curious because in the Skulptris version I once tried, going back from asymmetrical to symmetrical didn't work well indeed. And I believe Skulptris is related to Zbrush. That is why I was wondering. But currently I have neither of both, and no immediate plans.

 

For the moment all of my models are technical models, so I use DesignSpark Mechanical only now.

 

Maybe I will try to model airplanes later on, but then it will probably in Blender, to do the animations and unwrapping too.

 

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Regarding Sculptris, it was originally a pet project by the talented artist and programmer, who got snatched up by the zbrush team as long as he could continue to develop sculptris as a free app, obviously they let him because It was the origin of what is now known as dynamesh in zbrush. the main difference that sculptris uses tris obviously as its in the name sculp'tris', while zbrush uses polys. very flexible program allowing you to do pretty much whatever you want. you can have as many symmetry points as you like as well, like 10 or whatever which makes drawing designs much faster. you also have a store button which lets you keep a direct clone of your object to revert to whenever you think you have ruined something you can just drawn it back from the clone which is very handy for tricks and other effects.

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OK, I got my CC core and have been playing. So, here are the particulars. THIS IS NOT SANCTIONED BY UM!!

 

Ultimaker says that the CC core is incompatible with the UM3. Well, yes and no. And, I agree with their statement for this reason. Someone would otherwise ruin their UM3(E) feeders with abrasives and then blame UM for not telling them. People have a tendency to not read fine print.

 

So, here is my take on it:

  1. It is a core. All cores can swap between the two, so it will work.
  2. DO NOT use any abrasive materials in the UM. You will kill your feeders very quickly

So, Cura really has an issue with slicing for the CC core, so, just tell it that it is a AA0.8. Then choose your material. Play with line widths etc at your pleasure and slice.

 

Now, when you send it to the machine, it will throw up warnings about incompatibilities and such. Ignore it. Print. At least at this time, UM still allows a choice on this. So, those of you who may get a CC core, it is not limited to abrasive materials and you CAN multitask this expensive 'niche' product to better apply your investments in equipment.

 

And here is proof in the reality.

DSC03082.thumb.jpg.0cfe5d60e1231415a8f2ed006e6c12cf.jpg

DSC03081.thumb.jpg.f89b510e2e1cf7e6233c5d118fed9d04.jpg

BozoNoise.thumb.jpg.86d8db05c674f7015bbd62d5ab13b4dd.jpg

 

This has no post processing on it. Will be putting  that smooth-on stuff if I can get it to work. I am trying it out on smaller prints. That and brush on polyurethane.

 

Infill CC core, walls, AA 0.8.

Edited by kmanstudios
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On 11/13/2018 at 2:57 PM, geert_2 said:

...

gas_heatgun.thumb.jpg.42fef1b5f63cf3aec73015c46f83e304.jpg

...

 

Although it did work well on thick solid plastic parts like this dental appliance, and on PVC bottles, do *not* use this heat gun on 3D-printed parts, it will most likely destroy them. Heat travels way too fast and too deep into the part, and it makes entrapped air explode, causing bubbles and craters.

 

See my tests and photos here, where I compare it to Cloakfiend's acetone smoothing:

https://community.ultimaker.com/topic/8530-acetone-finishing-on-pla/?page=21

 

Seems nothing beats acetone smoothing, at least on my test parts...   :-)

 

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