owen

Hi 70mm/s is faster than what I usually print at (50 mm/s) but you should be able to do it no worries. I'd check your hobbed bolt is clean and in the right spot and the thumb screw is adjusted for good grip but not too much. Your temperature sounds OK but you could try at 220-230 for that speed.

Hi Elbozo I'd just print something else and see if it keeps leaking. It may stop and you won't have to take it apart. Also you could go as low as 190 just for taking it apart.

That's what I did. Mine is still 15 degrees out but it's consistent and working OK so I'm sticking with it. You may find a closer match with yours. You can put an entry in the Thermistor tables of the firmware too I think but I've never seen instructions or bothered going down that path. Another thing you can do is adjust your 4.7k resistor.

I think you are using PWM when you shouldn't be.

Try this bit of code in your pre gcode M92 E835 ;Set Extruder Rate

Hi Intensewalkera It looks like you're under extruding by a fair bit which would be giving the delaminating problems. I doubt it is temperature though if you used to print at that temperature. Unless your E steps per mm has changed you may have a blockage (possibly a plug or clogged nozzle) or your extruder is not pushing enough filament due to lack of grip on the filament or other cause. Check and see if you get reasonably deep marks imprinted on the filament, if not you may need to adjust it or clean the bolt. Check if you are squashing the filament into an oval shape in the extruder, which makes it hard to push through. For the blockage turn the temp up very high and push some filament through by hand for a bit. Otherwise you could take the bowden tube off at the heater end to see if there is a gap or plug there. I like to do this step last as it's preferable not to take it apart here if you don't have to.

Click on the Machine tab and then choose Ultimaker(Volumetric) from the machine type drop down You don't calibrate it, that is the idea of volumetric printing You just need to have your E steps set correctly in your firmware or in your Gcode example: M92 E835

Hi Daid I have screwed and glued the piece of wood between between 2 arms from underneath. The screws are self tapping screws screwed in from a 45 degree angle at the corners where the arm meets the wood. Also in my pre Gcode I move the nozzle to X100 Y0 and the push the platform into it 1mm and then back away. This is to overcome historesis. That is if you push the platform down and release it will come back to a different spot then if you push it up and release. So this makes it so you are always pushing it down slightly and releasing before the start of a print. Owen

Just tried repairing it in desktop Netfabb but got the same result in openscad.

Hi Dave See these guys for filament in Australia and some other like blue tape etc. http://bilbycnc.com.au/DispCat.asp?CatID=9&SubCatID=108 a great company to deal with. Also http://diamondage.co.nz/?page_id=108 in NZ apparently they make good filament.

Hi Markus AFAIK When you choose Volumetric printing (which is the way to go) you don't use this calibrate section.

Hi John Definitely change the standard delrin rub-block extruder, Owen

There is no HBP made by Ultimaker yet. You can build to a full size without one but usually a smaller size when you have one. No hurry to get one yet. A few people have put up blogs on how to make one yourself. Jensa and others.

Hi Gijs Looks good. Is the temperature it goes soft at the same?

Wait for Ultimaker to reply Dave. They are busy because they are popular. They are popular because it's a better printer. Some others concentrate on marketing and are probably making the profits to have people respond quicker to emails etc. especially when it's a sales enquiry. For what you want to do this printer is great.

Great link. Thanks for that.

Gooday again Dave The Ulticontroller is great. I can't think of anything else you need. I like to have a spare Pollolu driver board on hand. Though you can easily get them in any country I think.

Hi Fanplastic I haven't heard of this recommendation and I'm sure you wouldn't need to do it if you don't wish to. Do you have a link to where it says to do it?

Hi Boris There are various threads here discussing warping to give you more clues but generally the HBP will help and /or printing first layer very close to the platform and adding 20mm pads .2mm high or similar to corners of your model.

That's normal. Most look like that. That gap used to be encouraged to ensure there was pressure on the bowden tube to make sure there was no gap. It's probably not as important now with the latest hot end.

Have you tried without the top cooling fan? Worth a try in case it's cooling too much or the wrong spot.

It looks like it is too hot though the temperatures you quoted are toward the low end. It also looks like you're under extruding.

OK thanks Daid. I've tried it twice and it crashed or something both times and then I seen here about probs with 64 bit so I thought that was my problem.

So what are you doing Daid to keep the moisture out?

Hi Daid I'd like the ability to do multiple things after n layers from the start but not repeat eg. Extrude a bit more first layer Go slower for first 2 layers other people like to turn the fan on after a few layers etc. Other than that nice tops like Netfabb would be good too Most all other abilities and settings in KISSlicer I like I have 64 bit windows so haven't been able to use Cura yet so looking forward to it. Happy to be a beta tester too. Thanks