owen

It may be a bit slow at heating at 130W and a bit too much current at 523W. So a variable PS 12-24V at 350+ Watts would be best I think and adjust the voltage to set the wattage at around 300W DC is probably better at such high currents.

You should decide which HBP to buy and find out what power it consumes at what voltage. Then buy a PSU that supplies that voltage and a wattage greater than that required. The wires from the PSU to the HBP need to be thick and flexible. Before you turn it on get an electrician or similar to check it over.

Hi Ascanio It looks like you have went over temperature to cause the Peek part to melt like that. You would be best to contact Ultimaker support and see how they can help you out.

Or you could give it 10% fill

Kapton is harder to stick to then blue tape but gives a smoother finish. It sticks much better than glass though. Another setting I forgot is, to go for a thick first layer as well. 0.3mm in Cura. What you are trying to do is get a seal around the edge. Once that seal goes and air gets underneath that part of the model cools and shrivels and goes worse then if you didn't have a HBP. The lifted edge gets bigger then.

Hi thereza Use the Kapton tape Make sure you are level and the right distance at the start Print slow first layer Use the Brim If still having problems slow down you fan All doable from Cura

Hi Ascanio I'm pretty sure I have that same PCB and it draws many more amps than that at 12V. At 24V you will double the current and it will be 4 X the power. Also at start up when the PCB is cold it has a lower resistance and draws more current. I have a 360W variable power supply which goes up to 24V, I turn it down all the way and it puts out about 13V. At this voltage it draws a lot of power and even more when the power supply's own fan kicks in. I have a relay with a 12V coil that has never given a problem but I also think most 24V relays would probably operate at 19V. The important thing for safety and reliability is to have the current rating of the power circuit to be ample. I suggest 40 amp rating for the relay switching contacts and thick flexible wires. I also suggest the 360W power supply at 12V. Mine uses up more power than it's rating for short periods but has handled it for many months OK. I wouldn't go for a lower power rating than this or higher voltage.

Hi Need to make sure your bed is level and the right distance at start. Usual setting are a thicker slower first layer. Brim on, fan off. If your still not sticking onto Kapton tape I would verify the actual temperature of your HBP

Yaay. Well done.

Looks like you are not getting as many items in your list as me 12much. Either you need to ask someone who runs this forum or maybe you just need to wait till you have a certain number of posts up.

On the top right next to your user name click on the arrow and then click on 'My Settings' On the left blue column half way down click on 'Signature' Enter your signature and Click on 'Save Changes'

In that case it sounds like there is something on the screw that is stopping it going through the nut at that height.

Hi znib The height at which it stops looks like possibly the wood at the bottom of the z stage is hitting the top of the coupler where the coupler should go up inside that part. Not sure why it would be hitting it as nothing looks out of whack in the photos. To see which part is sticking otherwise you could undo the to 2 top grub screws in the coupler and unscrew the screw right back up through the top (if it will go) then see if the z stage will slide all the way down. Also I can't see grease on the screw thread though it may be there. It shouldn't stop it but it does need to be greased. Owen

I see.

Nice product and print. I don't think your fan would be that strong. Plus that pattern on the side wouldn't be the fill I don't think. It would be worth showing to Daid if that is Cura to see what he thinks.

Hi Mark I have used an optical sensor previously and Birtho uses one now AFAIK. I stopped using mine due to inconsistent leveling though in hind sight it wasn't the sensor's fault. A few people, me included are using heavier springs now which makes the platform steadier though you lose a bit of Z height. As for adjusting your Z height in GCode, which I do, you use the M92 command which instructs the UM where any axis is at. M92 Z0.1 ;Make Z more negative for a bigger gap Using this takes out the need to have a Z adjusting screw and it's easy to make an exact adjustment.

I'ts available to everyone now at Software download page

Great link there, good to see all the different things that cause hole shrinking in one spot. I just measured a 15mm hole at 14.75mm, which is pretty good. As Daid said the slicer can't make up for all aspects of shrinkage in holes. But they do seem pretty good in Cura.

Hi Sam It probably isn't dropping. It's probably not extruding properly for a layer. Check your tension spring on the material feeder, your bolt on the feeder is clean. Or are you printing too hot or too cold?

Hi Graeme In Expert settings increase the skirt count. Or use Brim.

Hi Check out this thread. https://groups.google.com/forum/#!searchin/ultimaker/JST|sort:relevance/ultimaker/aQRXQ0XnMAY/7u6tU6gDM6AJ

Hi Click 'Prepare' if you have that there.

That's awesome. Best print I've seen here. I would be needing to take a rest after all that CAD work :shock:

First one looks best to me.

Hi Kazzaqov Cura has a bed leveling wizzard. Besides that you could just adjust up your front screws 1/8 turn at a time and testing in between with a big print like your iphone. If it fails on first layer stop the print and adjust another 1/8 turn. When it looks right let it finish the print.