owen

Hi The 4 holes in the coupling at the bottom contain screws which tighten up onto the z-screw and the motor below. You'll need a small allen key to do them up. Slide the z-screw all the way in.

I've just gotten a new set from UM. I won't be tightening them too much this time though. Over tightening doesn't help your prints but stretches the belts.

Hi Guys I've been enjoying using the new Cura and pretty happy with the settings available. I think a feature that would cover what Simon is wanting and many other different scenarios is this though maybe a bit tricky to do the UI for it. On layer n add this code, do it for n layers, repeat every n layers Be able to add as many of these lines as you like. This would enable the user to change fan speed, extrude more or less, increase/decrease nozzle and bed temperature or go faster/slower for different layers.

On the plug at the end of the wire from the motor. Swap the left pair of wires with the right pair but keep the order of each pair the same.

Trim just enough to get to a clean piece of tube. Try this first. You can trim a total of about 30mm or so but don't do that in one go. Also inspect your horseshoe clip and see if it looks OK.

Nice

Hi astrodenny taped side going into the material feeder is correct Double check from the wiki you have everything assembled correct. parts not upside down etc. as most V2 don't pop the Bowden tube. You can put a 7mm thread onto the tube and put a nut on it and then hold that down in various ways too

Just Right click on your model or the platform Ian and choose 'Delete All'

Here you go. http://wiki.ultimaker.com/Calibrate

If you put a 7mm tap on the end of the bowden tube you can than put a nut on it and than be able to hold it down while you print a solution. I actually use http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:17027 but with a nut inside instead of the tightening cone so that the bowden tube doesn't get squeezed.

This thing works . http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:17027

I can't see why it's happening but try putting a G92 E0 just after it homes

Right click on the model and click on 'Delete'

The time has come. I think so anyway. It's fairly stable. Slices very well. Retraction good. Settings are good. Rotating Model good. I really like KISSlicer but I haven't used it since I started using the New Cura. It has Brim feature. Not many bugs just a few feature requests

What are they?

Try turning your retraction speed down or off. This stops the softer filament from getting chewed up by the material feeder.

I thought it wouldn't be that heavy as water is only 1gm/cm3 so I sliced a 10mm cube at 100% and it gave a weight of 1gm

Hi Zuma See this page http://www.pololu.com/catalog/product/1182 Down the bottom it talks about the ref voltage to set for the current and in the picture of the bottom of the pcb it has a white circle around the test pad Yep, that is correct you kill the A4988 Carrier board, not the main board.

Hi dendrortyx Can you move the head around reasonably easy by hand? Have you oiled the shafts etc.? Checked your speed settings in your slicer? It doesn't hurt to reinstall your firmware. Maybe your stepper motor driver needs adjusting, be careful if you decide to do this however (see the wiki)

It keeps getting better

Like where KISSlicer puts in the Start GCode where the user can edit S190 <BED> I like to initially raise my bed temp a bit higher to allow the top of the glass to reach the full temp seem as the sensor is at the bottom of the glass. I can still add it after your initial code anyway so it's not a biggy. They also have the GCode for every N layers, though personally I would prefer to be able to do something once after so many layers. My main thing I'm trying to do is getting prints to reliably stick at the start using speed, temps and fan control for so many layers and then returning to normal settings. Of course these are all feature requests and not bugs. :-P That's great. I should use my Right Button more often. Forgot to mention I really like the Brim feature. I just keep forgetting to use it at the moment when I need to. :rolleyes:

Hi Daid I like the way it's slicing. Compared to KISSlicer it seems to not do any random moves or so much retracting when not necessary. I do like how KISSlicer puts more of it's own settings in to the start GCode so the user can adjust and the ability to have more adjusting in the initial layers with the use of variables and 'n' layers etc. I think Cura Tops are filled in much better which is very important. One bug I've found is if I drag and drop an STL file onto Cura it doesn't pickup the filename and uses the name of the original file that was opened when it saves the GCode. I like the handling of the SDCard picking up the drive letter and being able to dismount it from within Cura, very handy. Overall I like how it slices and the speed and seems to be no thin wall problem and easy to understand settings.

Thanks for the update Harold. That's a very nice print.

Maybe not change your temp for PLA if it's at 70C but you will be able to start that tiny bit higher and still get it to stick well and thus avoid the Elephant's foot. I haven't printed with ABS but Joergen has if you look through his posts he has written much about it.

Yep, I noticed it can stick easier and with less heat compared to glass.