Daid

Nope. Only documentation there is in the code, readme and my head.

Acetone is available at most DIY shops in the Netherlands. We got some stuff containing limonene in some nature shop or something. Not sure what product, only 1 person did a few first tests with it yet. We waiting for more HIPS to scale up the testing.

Install mingw32 Run make (In all honesty, if you need more instructions then this to get it to compile, you have little business in the code. It's a complex piece of code)

Currently it is calculated with: fanSpeed = fanSpeed * layerNr / fanFullOnLayerNr Where fanFullOnLayerNr is calculated by: (fanFullHeight - initialLayerThickness) / layerThickness + 1 In your case: fanFullOnLayerNr = (0.3 - 0.2) / 0.1 + 1 = 2 Speed at layer 0: 100% * 0 / 2 Speed at layer 1: 100% * 1 / 2 Speed at layer 2: 100% * 2 / 2 fanFullOnLayerNr = (300 - 200) / 100 + 1 = 2 So there is a small bug, as the layers start at 0. Entering 0.29 should solve it for you. Also fixing it for the next release.

We've had little luck with PVA here. But, HIPS on the other hand seems to print a lot easier, and does not burn. Add added plus, it's also cheaper and can be used as normal print material, and seems to resemble a bit in between of PLA and ABS (on the first glance) Disadvantage is that you have to dissolve it in Limonene.

(Just wanted to rule out possible MacOS problems) Could be that the bridge-detection code is kicking in, that's the only thing that can change infill direction from the normal 90deg swaps. Got a picture of the model or layers?

You can put an Ultimaker upside down, prints look the same, which shows that gravity has little to no effect on the prints. Maybe bridges will act differently a bit. But I think with bridges it's the same as most other effects, it's all down to cooling.

Try resetting your profile to the default? Maybe some setting is causing issues for you?

Which OS?

A fix is out, it's in the Cura 13.11 release. The default UM2 firmware in Cura 13.11 contains a fix for the 280C bug, a fix for the SD-Read error, and the option to save custom material presets. Cura 13.11 will also run the fan at a lower speed at the first few layers for the UM2, so the head is cooled less which helps with extrusion.

If you want, I could do a test print for you here at the Ultimaker HQ, would be a pretty awesome model to show off. (If you allow us to show it at events)

If you want this, you have to change the GCode flavor from "UltiGCode" to "RepRap" in Cura, this is because when you use the SD card menu in the UM2, the UM2 heats up and starts up itself, and this is not in the GCode. But with RepRap style GCode this is in the GCode file, which is what OctoPrint expects.

Yes! Update is on http://software.ultimaker.com/ and comes with the 13.11 Cura release. Install it with the "install default firmware" option. It should fix all known causes of the SD-Card-read-error. The new Cura update also fixes a few other issues, and adds a few minor things. You can also download this file: https://github.com/daid/Cura/raw/SteamEngine/Cura/resources/firmware/MarlinUltimaker2.hex (richt click->save) and upload it as custom firmware.

We sell 2.85mm PLA (with a slight variation of 0.1mm I think) The machine excepts any PLA up to 3.1mm, but anything over 3.1 will cause jams. So 3.1000 works, 3.10001 will jam.

Even better, this is already fixed for the monday release even ;-)

There are quite a few expert settings that effect support material. And the "everywhere" support has a bug where the Z distance (gap between support and object) does not work properly, making it difficult to remove. (Fix will be out on monday)

(New release will be out on monday to fix this issue and a few others that got into the 13.10 release)

http://blog.ultimaker.com/cura-user-manual-first-time/ bit down explains how to look around and pan/zoom

This is because of the skirt, you'll have to disable the skirt (in expert settings) to get the full size, else it takes in account that the skirt has to fit on the platform.

Currently not. For PLA I think this would make the support pretty hard to remove.

Nope, nowhere near enough current, the 5V can only deliver around 100mA.

Hihi, that's not many complains, just a bunch of people that notice they are not 100% centric. But only 1 post that might indicate that it causes actual changes in the print.

[citation needed] I've never seen a something that indicated MXL or GT2 pulley accuracy problems. Cable stretching however, can be a real problem. Which is why steel cable is most likely a bad idea.

It's the system that the http://www.tantillus.org/Home.html uses. Cheap in parts, but expensive to assemble properly.

Fix-Horrible Type-A most likely will fix up the problem for you. It usually does not remove any holes or stuff.