SandervG

Hi Alxffs, I see you have contacted me through a DM, I will get back with you in the same fashion. Thank you!

I just confirmed and the settings she used were: 250ºC, 35mm/s, 0.1 layer height and retraction enabled. What happens when you try this?

I will be there as well

And yes, I have taken it upon me with Cez_etc and Blizz to organize a German & Belgium Ulti-evening. Don't know when the first edition will be.. but so you all know it is in the works

Funny that you say so. I personally also have only printed PLA Flex (or Ninjaflex, which is even more flexible) on Roberts feeder, however I tasked someone from the support team to try it out on the regular feeder and it worked flawless. (ok ok, we only tested a simple cube, but there were no flaws to be recognized.) I must say.... I was surprised. Pleasantly surprised. @ Jan, try 2 drops of sewing machine oil in the bowden tube, no retraction and a slightly higher temp. This is not all mandatory for flex pla, but may give you something to start with.

And I remember you used to fail at 4'3'mm/s. 13 is really good and I think you should be glad with those results.

Hi Nico, Usually you have to print white at a slightly higher temperature then other colors. Have you also tried other colors and with what temperature it disappeared? Maybe, because the hot end on the Ultimaker 2 is different, you should not hold on too tight to the profiles you used to create for the Original. For example, have you tried printing http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:8757 model and see if you had any stringing?

ohh come on guys! We still have a few weeks to go until the week is over! Maybe a monthly challenge is long, and we can do a 2 week challenge?

Nope, just scaled down in Cura.. I did play with temperature and retraction settings. But that is all you will get from my secret recipe! The proof is right here on my desk..

The good thing is, with these small prints you can do multiple on 1 day So I printed 2 more small bearings. The smalles one was actually my second print, I suppose I estimated the size of a glue stick wrong.. The first one I printed didn't move, however it was difficult with my big hands to try and rotate it because I along with holding on to the centre piece I was also holding down 1 or 2 gears that were suppose to move. I printed another one and also the one that has the same size as a glue stick. The peculiar thing is that both bearings have so much play the gears actually are a bit free inside the bearing and can be pushed out of alignment quite easily. How do you think that is possible, that with a smaller bearing you have more play? But.. it moves So the smalles one is 2cm in X & Y, and 6mm in Z.

Ok, I have a successful bearing. (first attempt) It is 1cm in Z, and I used the original file. I am gonna try to make it as small as the pritt stick. I didn't need to do any post processing, except use a little bit more force on the first turn. I used nothing but my bare hands. (and I have no exceptional strong bearhands or something.. ) To honor the competition I will keep my secret slicing profile to myself until the MPC is over :mrgreen:

Hy Dylan, If you can send me your ordernumber in a PM I can look for some updates for you Thanks!

Could you check if the hole in the pulley are centralized? Any idea is a good idea and I am really eager to find the reason of this. Hopefully you have some energy for it too. Besides the infill, it prints fine?

I bought ninjaflex at 123inkt. Here is the http://www.123inkt.nl/3D-Filament-3D-printers/Filament-type/3mm-TPE-flexibel-p54460.html. Hopefully we can start selling it too at some point.

Gr5.. of course! .. that is the challenging part!

Do you think if there was something in the feeder, it would be so consistent and the lines would be so clean? I am bound to think it is something in Cura, however it is strange that it only happens to Nico (or nobody else notices it).. or it is something mechanical. But it means he would have received 2 UM2 with the same thing which nobody else experiences. Based on that I would think maybe it is something in his workflow?

Print vote: the smallest possible version of the Gear Bearing: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:373707

haha I have black, white and transparant Ninjaflex. I printed the sandals. I just removed some support and some stringing, but no post processing besides that.. as you can tell I am rather satisfied about the result because I am still always excited about the material and that it works But it goes without telling that it needs some more tweaking on the profile part because there are too many blobs and to much stringing. Also, at some parts on the front at the toes you can see some under extrusion.. Disabling retraction would probably cure that, but that would make the stringing even worse. I think it would become closed sandals then I guess I will wait for any votes then. In any case looking forward to what we will be printing!

Ok, what about.. this one? or are those to big?

Good to have you back Aaron! I am sorry to hear about your situation but it shows character that you got out off the mess and are back up on your feet. I am going to participate in this month's challenge too so it is going to be a race!! What dragon are we going to print?

The lines look dense enough, just too much space in between. What value is your infill overlap (%) in expert config?

I thought it did too. So does the power on the fan speed, usually they are on around 5th or 6th layer I believe? I am going to print it tomorrow and do a comparison. What happens when you finish the print? Will it continue to go wider?

send me your gcode, I will run it too.

That is what I thought as well.. Isn't that part converting the 19V into 5V? So if it broke it is letting all the 19V go through? (electronics are not my field of expertise.. even after all these years.. :oops: )

Well, you could leave it just disabled. But as Robert says, you can also modify gcode so you remove the command line. I think it is either M105 or M109. Example: M109 S0 Anybody can confirm or correct?