SandervG

This manual is on it's way! In the meantime if you have any questions i would be happy to answer them. I will keep you posted when the manual is online.

As a starting value i would advice to measure the filament diameter you are using. Do you have a digital calipers? If you do not, i would suggest to use 2.85mm as it should be the average.

It is also a good idea to print with the lowest temperature possible for the filament you are printing with. This might take some tweaking to find the exact temperature because it may vary with different colours. Also slightly increasing speed might save you some stringing.

Hi Broken, I suspect you posted this comment in the wrong topic. Perhaps you want to repost it

Usually the bars mean that the flat grey cables are connected the wrong way around. Nothing bad will happen, except for the display not working. You can just switch them over at your electronics and everything should be fine.

Hi Sven, You can read into this topic, i think it should give you some help: viewtopic.php?f=8&t=1083 If you are unsure, you can post some pictures of your signal cabe (the red yellow black wires). Are your thermocouple and cartridge heater not interfering with eachother at the hot end?

Hi Ian and all other users, I am kind of shocked reading all this and i it comes to me as quite a surprise! As technical support member i am also supposed to check the forum every now and then but last week (maybe 2) i have been very busy both in my personal live (moving) and at the head quarters. So my apologize if there hasn't been anyone around to assist or talk to. Unfortunately, today i am out of the office but tomorrow i will see if i can find out what exactly is going on because all the things that are being said doesn't seem right. I don't know exactly what happened but i am sure Alexander didn't mean it in a bad way. I hope Ian can find your motivation to keep up your good work. And for starters, i don't have any problems with you

hi Ian, I assume someone used the X as a mark. If it is marked, it is checked. I don't see a reason why someone would look at the package, mark it as not checked and still sent it out. So no worries and enjoy your new feeder mechanism!

well, i have seen a print at 0,02mm. I know it's not 0,01mm but you.... just sayin

I would also advice to check the belt tension, in particular the small belts on the motors. You can tighten them by unscrewing the motors, push them down and tighten them again. You can also try to align the belts, because it seems like they are skipping steps. Align them in a way that they are paralel to the axis. Have you checked if all the pulleys are screwed on tight?

I don't think if you would use a 12mm instead of a 10mm it would cause any harm. After all, the end stop is meant to put a stop to your sliderblock

Thank you for your suggestions and solutions. I don't think there is any harm in using a slightly larger bolt for the end stops.

I would have suggested the same things, so i am looking forward to hear about your findings. If you are experiencing a plug perhaps it is interesting to look into the new hot end V2. Are you printing with different colours or only 1?

You are very right and i have put it through to our production department to keep an extra eye out for this. It is something that comes from our supplier. Alltho it is not a very big problem it can be annoying. Have you been able to solve it with a nut or did you fix the stripped holes?

You could use a slightly longer bolt and a nut to tighten the end stop. But if you ever want to make some changes to the position of your end stop after assembly putting the nut back is very difficult because practically everything will be in the way.. You can also contact support and we could replace your end stop.

Hi Adam, Have you tried waiting a little bit? Is the printhead moving, or is it staying at the home position? The string it is extruding might be just some oozing because the hot end is being heated. And i would advice to give Cura a try

Hi Sam, For now the official Z axis layer resolution that is within reach without any magical powers would be 40 microns, so 0,04mm. I have seen some very nice looking experiments that go even thinner. So to answer your question, if you are able to create a good profile you can go up to 40 microns for sure. The hardware shouldn't be the problem.

Hi Dazzan, Come by our stand! We are at U10, somewhere near the restaurant! I will see you there.

Hi Douglas, We have taken this upon us among with a revised version of the wiki. So it is a work in progress. But if anyone wants to give you some more insight in the meantime please feel free!

Yes it is a slightly different bowden clip.

If you haven't heard it yet, please read the following new blog http://blog.ultimaker.com/2012/09/07/1504/

I don't want to derive you from Printrun, but perhaps you could take a look at Slic3r. If i am not mistaken it offers the option to give different speed settings to bridges / non print travel speed / first layer speed and perimeters. You could check it out

Yes, definitely tomorrow! We have just finished all arrangements and it is ready to go. So i guess i will be talking to y'all tomorrow then

Or you can check out http://betterfuturefactory.com/ They already went to Lowlands (Big Dutch Festival) to recycle the used plastic cups and recycle them to rings and what not. Ultimakers have been used for printing the recycled plastic, awesome! They have other big events in there agenda.

We are working very hard to make the new hot end available for y'all! Most likely tomorrow or the day after, but it will be accompanied with a blog post so keep an eye out for this. I would just like to add to this discussion, we have had several printers printing over 58 hours non stop without any problem (except running out of filament).