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Hi Nether, Thank you for the update. If i am not mistaken a few suggestions from Calum, me and now also Calin are still open. Will you get back on these once you caught up on your sleep? The drive bolt looks alright. I am looking forward on hearing about your findings, Have a nice day.

Hi Bill, Are you still using both USB and UC? Not claiming it to be your problem, just trying to understand your situation. Have you always used the same cables for the UC? Have you ever had difficulties with other electrical devices?

Daid is right. And congrats Bill! Btw I like your signature a lot better now!

..you are forgetting technical support Daid

Edit: I have read it! @ Nether, Thank you. I am looking forward hearing about your findings. Even if they don't hold the solution, if they would point us to the part that is causing these issues we are already halfway there and close to solving your issues, and we can find a proper solution for you. Thank you for your time, have a good day!

Hi Nether, I am sorry to hear you are experiencing this level of frustration. Your ticket was 'only' sent Sunday, and i hope you understand after a weekend we have a lot emails (both Sales and support) to go through based on activity. You would have received a reply today, but since there is a big discussion going on on this forum i will get back to you here instead. I am also interested to hear if the tips Calum sent you made a difference. If not, almost all tips have been suggested by now. However, I still want to point out a few things: Can you take out the teflon tube, and push some new/fresh filament through? You should feel zero friction. Can you take a close up picture of your drive bolt? I have not encountered it before, but maybe the teeth are blunt. If you leave the extruder drive open, are you able to make a print by pushing in the filament manually? This should be possible if the problem is not your hot end. It will most likely not win a price, but you should have no signs of underextruding or problems in the flowrate. If you would take out the extruder drive upgrade, and you would place the delrin wheel on the table.. are you able to make the extruder drive upgrade move? Like push it in, what the spring is suppose to do? Like illustrated on this picture: http://wiki.ultimaker.com/File:Eh8.jpg I am looking forward on hearing from you, lets solve your issue!

When you say screwing the extruder head together, do you mean the 4 larger screws in the corner or do you mean the hot end itself, i.e. the Brass tube - Alu Block - Nozzle? The 4 screws will not help you with this leakage problem. There is most likely a tiny gab between the brass tube and Nozzle inside the alu. block. When you it heated at 180°C, try to tighten this assembly some more. Make sure the nozzle is in all the way, and next tighten the brass tube/PEEK. But don't use any excessive force, because the brass pipe can break.

Amen!

Hi Bill, No problem, i understand it can be frustrating when you have bought something with high potential and it is not working like you imagined. That is why Anita was, and I am here to help, I am sure Anita did her best as well. I am glad you have this open attitude. The test shows that your PCB is broken, and I suggest you get a replacement. I will contact you in an email for the shipping details, if that is ok with you. On your other question: If I am not mistaken Cura 12.12 is also fine to update the FW again.

I don't think it really matters who i am, beside the technical support engineer as i introduced myself. But my name is Sander van Geelen. Nice to meet you. I'm sorry to hear you were not satisfied with the way Anita was trying to help you, lets hope i will do a better job. Before we dig into this, i think it speaks for itself i will do my very best solving your issues and make you a happy customer. But despite your skepticism (even if it is legit) i want to ask you to leave the hostile tone away because no one benefits from this. I actually did read your post, but i asked again just to be sure what your situation is. Maybe you have been able to fix it in the mean time, or you have found a different one. Regarding to the problem, Cura 13.01 will ask you to update the FW before the first run wizard starts. There is a bug in this FW that stops you from going through the first run wizard end stop section, so if you installed Cura 13.01, and upgraded the FW, please skip this test. You would need to install Cura 12.11, re-install default marlin firmware to do the first run wizards again. We hope to release a new FW soon. 'I am using Windows 7 and the Auduino driver does connect to the printer. I get the sound that it connects if I unplug and replug the USB cable.' indicates that the USB-part of the Arduino is still operative, but not necessarily that it is not defective. The communication-part can still be broken. Therefore could you unplug the Arduino from the PCB, and try to re-install the FW from Cura 12.11? There is a chance the PCB resets your Arduino when the PCB is defective. When you are able to upload the FW when detached, your PCB is broken. When you are not able to upload the FW, your Arduino is broken. With either of the 2 parts replaced, i assume you communicate with your Ultimaker once again. I am looking forward hearing from you,

Hi Bill, Thank you for posting on this forum. I am a technical support engineer at Ultimaker for close to a year now and i am happy to say i have been able to help close to all customers that contacted me. After reading your topic i browsed our communication system but i could not find any tickets when searching 'Bill' or 'Dempsey'. Could you please let me know if you have been contacting us under a different name? I would like to help you with your issues. Regarding to this problem: Are you currently working with an UltiController? When swapping the Arduino, did you install the default Marlin FW? Do you hear the Arduino trying to connect? Have you tried different ports on your computer? Are you working with a Mac or Windows? Also, if your friends from the hackerspace are having difficulties and feel like reviving their Ultimakers please have them contact me via Support @ Ultimaker.com I hope that, regardless of your frustration, you can see there is a big community supporting us and that would not exist if we would leave everybody hanging. So i do not think it is fair to call Erik a liar, but i guess everybody is entitled to their own opinion. I am looking forward on hearing from you, so we can solve your issue. Thank you.

If you have a hot end v2, which i assume, you can also check if the filament can pass through your teflon tube. The white tube that holds your bowden tube in your print head. Printing at high temperatures (and with retraction).. (and slow speed), heath can crawl up via the filament, soften your teflon tube. With the pressure from the bowden tube it can be squeezed just a very small amount, but maybe just enough to cause extra friction for your filament.

Hi Joe, This sounds like a typical loose pulley problem. I would advice you to go by all the pulleys with your screwdriver and double check them. Don't forget the one at your motors. This would explain your first and third problem. Due to a loose pulley the axis can rotate freely in the pulley, and the movement can not fully be transmitted to the print head. Regarding to problem 2, your bed is most likely just a little bit too low. Please go to wiki.ultimaker.com/Calibrate for an image on how your first layer should look like. The filament should slightly be pressed in the tape for good adhesion. But keep in mind not to block the hole in the nozzle because then no filament can be extruded. On that page are also tips on how to level your bed again. Good luck!

Hi, It is the old screw for the old driving mechanism. There is no need for it to include it in your assembly

Have you tried printing on your UM at home with the same filament as you are using at work?

Nice video from Luis. If you would need any further information on how to feed the filament, please watch this video.

Ever since we released hot end v2 the ABS Fix Kit has been removed from the Kit because it was no longer needed. The fact that you have a leaking hot end is most likely because it is not assembled properly. Most likely there is a small gap between the brass pipe and the nozzle in the aluminum heater block causing the leakage. Heat your hot end and tighten it with 2 pliers. Do it gently so it doesn't break but firm so it is tight. Is the brass pipe far enough in the PEEK? Is your brass pipe not installed upside down? http://www.flickr.com/photos/ultimaker/8185563116/ If your filament is grinding, maybe your extruder drive is too tight? If you check wiki.Ultimaker.com/Calibrate you can find a short video on how to calibrate the extruder drive upgrade.

It is not really clear to me if you have a hot end v1 or hot end v2? Could you take a clear picture of your hot end? The resistance you feel when pushing in filament manually can also be the filament reaching the end of the nozzle/hot end and hasn't melted yet. Give it a few seconds, and try pushing it again. Does this make a difference? If you have hot end v2, is your brass pipe installed correct, and not up side down? Is your bowden tube reaching all the way in the teflon tube? Thnx,

Hi Pablo, Because the Ultimaker is a DIY-Kit, or at least has an open design you can always replace parts when needed. A proper assembly, usage and maintenance is needed to reach the Ultimakers full attention. The Ultimaker is not Plug & Play, the Ultimaker needs to be calibrated and settings need to be set. Therefor it is hard to say, parts will probably not break, but there is a chance due to experimenting or wrongful usage some parts get damaged. You could consider a spare hot end v2 (if you want to plan ahead). Have you also taken filament and blue tape in account?

Thanks!

If anyone has any more questions about the UltiController and the interface, you should find (most of) your answers here! http://wiki.ultimaker.com/UltiController Enjoy!

Regarding to the wood, it is not necessary to change the sides of the housing. The new wood has, i believe, 2 new small holes in it what makes it easier to guide wires from the outside with a screwdriver. If you don't want this luxury you don't have to swap them The top and bottom are mandatory tho. As for further guidelines i would like to refer to the wiki and look at the pictures. Don't use any excessive force for anything but make sure the hot end part is tight.

I would advice to insert the right diameter of your filament in your slicer before changing your E steps. Also make sure your first layer is pressed in the tape (slightly) so your print has full grip. 130% depends on how fast you set the Ultimaker to print in your slicer.

I have printed the yoda-bust without support, so i don't think it is necessary.. At what speed/temperature are you printing? Looking at the last picture i would say your temperature is a bit too high. As a tip, i know it is a little bit silly, and perhaps as a SW-fan a slap in the face, but i always find this funny: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:27687 About the deflecting, have you checked all your pulleys? are they tight? Are your small timing belts tight? (i must say, the deflecting is hard to see on the picture).

When your hot end is heated, can you still move/rotate the aluminum heater block? I suspect you didn't tighten it enough when assembling, leaving some room for movement and leakage. You could try to tighten it some more with pliers and a small wrench when it is hot. (when it is cold you won't be able to get it moving). Is your brass pipe installed the right way? The wiki hot end has been updated, please look at some pictures to see if yours is the same. http://wiki.ultimaker.com/Hot_end_v2