LePaul

Maybe this was mentioned...but is there a way to NOT import settings from 2.1.x ? Normal used to be 0.2 and has since been upped to 0.1 I didn't catch that doing a print this weekend. (It came out really nice, but took twice as long lol )

First, I would heed what @gr5 is telling you. I also wouldn't mess with the feedrate on the Ulticontroller. Leave it at 100% I'd also suggest that 30 mm/s is pretty slow, maybe try 40 mm/s. You're dealing more with finding the right temp for what you are printing. I just unboxed my Ultimaker 2 last week, it's a refurbished model and I printed a part at 210C and got some of the very same strings you got. Ultimaker has some tips on that here In my case, I was printing too fast and too hot and also got the minor strings you got. They easily cleaned up with a razor blade As gr5 indicated, you just haven't hit the sweet spot for your print speed and temp. That takes some trial and error. My UMO's sweet spot is 40 mm/sec and 210 for my Colorfabb PLA, for example I hope this helps!

Whoa, burnt looking electronics are never a good thing. Is the LED strip being chewed up by the pulleys?

Well you verified the motor works elsewhere....driver and cable ok... @Sandervg might be able to help I'd say create a support ticket but I know when I click on it, it asks for a serial number which a UMO won't have.

I've been reading Nick Lievendag's 3D Scanning blog for quite some time. I wonder if he'll blog about the changes as well?

I'm here to help.....and the witty, comic relief !

I just painted my living room a year ago. The "hype" about the green tape is the adhesive is supposed to be better, so the paint does not bleed through Here's something interesting about the tapes

Default settings in 2.3 for skirt distance (actually I never touch it)

Yes...set skirt to 1 and now it fits. (I always do 4 so I can fine tune the platform if needed)

Really interesting...I wonder if my 4 skirt lines bumped it out?

The only problem with that file...you can't print it on an Ultimaker Original Even on the slightly larger Ultimaker 2 it has to be done diagonal to fit.

That's really interesting. I'd really like to see a photo of that if you can sort out the upload image bit I know there's been a couple people who had trouble with the gear not staying in position on the stepper motor shaft. In those cases, apparently some of the lubricant got onto the shaft and is causing the gear to slip.

What are the results if you do an Atomic cleaning? What's the other end of the coupler look like?

Yeah I noticed the cord from the printer to the brick is shorter than what I was used to on the UMO. I just unpacked my Ultimaker 2 from Fabrc8 last night (refurb) and noticed that the cord length from brick to printer is also short too. Like you, I was used to having everything on the floor. With the new bricks, I have to have them on the workbench. Meduza has a good idea...might have to try that. (I also considered industrial velcro to attach to the brick to the back of the workbench)

The parts I print lately are semi-circular and curved, so I have to use a lot of support material. Making the bottom smooth can be tough, no matter which support type you use. (In my case, some low grit sandpaper helps pry off some stubborn support pieces) Where you have a flat piece, you should be able to get a great, smooth result from the glass/heated bed.

A couple of us have had a conversation about printing with nGen. You can read along and see that we all had good results with the fan off. The stringing is a bit tough to get rid of. I can't tell what kind of printer you have. You could also do a support ticket to Colorfabb. They have been really helpful at giving suggestions on setting changes to get the best result.

You might want to chime in with this information on the Cura 2.3 thread

I found some 3 inch wide painter's tape...I think it was a knock-off of the 3M brand...at Lowe's a while back. Prior to my heated bed upgrade, I used the blue tape and had no problem with it adhering to the acrylic bed. (I made sure it was clean and smooth prior to placing tape on it) I did find it essential to wipe down the tape with rubbing alcohol prior to printing. The prints stuck very, very well. The problem was removing the print always ripped the tape despite my best Ninja moves with the scraper.

I thought paint balls hurt til i saw the welts Airsoft gives you. No thank you!

So the pulleys were ok, it was the washer friction?

I see. The message needs some rewording, because what is "suitable" in this case? It should read something like "None of the models fit the build volume. Please scale or rotate your models to fit." Yes, exactly. Otherwise you have no idea if the work you do to fit the build plate is 'acknowledged' by Cura

What printer, what settings, what model? Did you activate One at a time printing? From your very small screenshot crop, I can almost see that you are looking from the top of your buildplate. If you look at the buildplate more from the front, you will see that the available buildvolume has decreased. This is done because otherwise the gantry would collide with a previous print. You should have also gotten a message about this decrease in print volume height. Ultimaker 2 profile Essentially, any model that, by default, does not fit the build plate seems to get this. Once rotated to fit, the slicer progress bar seems to move. Whether it writes reliable gcode...I don't know. Try a file that requires rotation to fit (I'm printing BB-8 parts, so everything is round/circular).

Make sure...and I mean crank hard...that the set screws are on that pulley really really good. My guess is it isn't very tight

Seeing this error No such problem in Cura 2.1.3 or previous

I got a notification and it brought me to the last unread post. Some progress for me! (Home laptop)