gr5

Strange. Is your photo showing the part where it is trying to draw the lines? Most likely you aren't doing the manual leveling properly. the very last step calibrates the second print core. Read the instructions carefully. I believe you need to use the up and down arrows on the display when calibrating the second nozzle. You can skip over the part where it asks you to put the nozzle 1mm above the print bed. Skip those 3 steps. Then do the rear accurately with a piece of paper and the calibration card and then do the front knobs to make the bed flat. Then for the right core you are only using the arrows (not turning the mechanical knobs).

Oh! much better. It should work fine now. You need both the Z20 and the G92 so since one of them is gone it should work fine. I marked it as the solution but in the unlikely event there is still a problem I can "unmark" it as the solution. Let us know.

G92 E0 M190 S100 M109 S225 G280 S1 G0 Z20.001 G1 F2700 E-6.5 ;LAYER_COUNT:165 ;LAYER:0 M106 S127.5 M104 T0 S240 M204 S1000 M205 X20 Y20 G1 F600 Z2.14 ;adjusted by z offset G92 Z2.24 ;consider this the original z before offset G0 F9000 X158.782 Y135.383 Z2.24 ;TYPE:SKIRT G1 F600 Z0.24 G1 F900 E0 G1 F1500 X156.189 Y137.246 E0.04805 G1 X153.711 Y137.85 E0.08643 So the problem is in the 5th line of code. Sort of combined with the G92. But the problem is basically in that 5th line of code. I have no idea if it comes from a plugin or something messed up with the material profile or what. The G0 Z20.001 tells it to move the bed 20.001mm below the nozzle (I usually think of it as the nozzle moves but actually it's the bed but positive numbers here are more separation between nozzle and bed). Then later the G92 Z2.24 tells the printer "hey I know you are at 20.001 but I want you to forget that and you are currently at 2.24. So z=0 is now 2.24mm below here (nozzle closer to bed by 2.24mm). So Z=0 position, while it should be touching the glass, nozzle is 17.761mm above the bed. So basically it prints almost 2cm high from there forward in the gcode. This is all near the very begining of the gcode. I would disable both plugins and look at the gcode. It's a pain - change the ufp extension to zip, then extract the file in the "3D" folder called model.gcode. Then search for "Z". There are a bunch of Z's in the comments at the top but pretty soon they are very rare and sparse throughout the file.

When I sliced, it looks like this. Is that what you get also? With the brim and it firmly on the bed? I guess I should have asked this earlier. I assumed it would be "up in the air" in the PREVIEW screen. Could you verify that please? I'm thinking the problem is hardware related and possibly intermittent. I would: 1) Try it again (see if it's a rare issue and also if it's intermittent) 2) Try an old print with a filament you've used many times before to see if it does it with that also (to see if it's somehow related to the material profile) What surprises me is that it does the active leveling just fine. It has to have extremely repetitive and fine control of the Z axis (the bed height) to complete active leveling without errors. So maybe it's some kind of firmware bug. I guess now I want you to send me the gcode file (ends with .ufp) that is the exact same file that causes the problem so I can look at the gcode in there. Another thought is some kind of plugin that you installed alters the bed height at the start of the print. Do you have extensions/plugins installed into cura? If so that will show up in the ufp file when I look at it.

It's easy in cura for your part to be up in the air so that could be it. It could be a lot of other things. Please post your project file here. Not your model. Your project file. Do menu "file" "save project as" and post that here please.

Oh. That's pretty stupid that it's grayed out. Hmm. But you can "change" the filamant while paused, right? Can you mess with the temperature during that part? I guess you can change the print core - I mean while changing the filament you should be able to swap cores. Hmm. Only if it cools the core - if you remove a core while hot then it will lock up and the only option is power cycling at that point. See this is why I prefer *fewer* fancy features. I should have complete control over things like nozzle temp and bed temp at any time. Especially when paused. They added this feature to gray out features when paused. Not good in my opinion.

I've never tried it but I'm pretty sure you can do it. You pause it. You set the temp to normal printing temp for the nozzle you want to clean. I like to remove the bowden (yes in the middle of a print is fine). Push down until filament is coming out. Then lower the temp to the cold temp. For PLA I usually do 80C and start pulling as I raise it to 100C. Use a snipper to remove the gunk on the tip. Repeat. You don't need a stinking menu/guide to explain the steps. Just do the steps. By now you should know how to do a cold pull. If not there are easily 100 videos on how to do a cold pull on every imaginable printer and they are all basically the same. When things are good, put the bowden back in, extrude manually until it comes out the nozzle, resume print. I'm guessing you want it as a procedure in the firmware during a pause. I don't. It's likely to just add more bugs. Better to keep things simple and do the cold pull yourself. It's not complicate.

So true! I used to try to push people away from sketchup and blender. But it took me a year to get fast at sketchup (and months to get fast at DSM) and I realize that the investment into switching CAD is probably not worth it for some people. At some point I memorized the shortcuts to the point where I don't even know what my fingers are doing anymore and instead I just create. And sketchup and blender have lots of addons/features to assist you with making proper, manifold, useful prints if you just google about it.

Yeah but blender is... complicated. It has these features... like "subdivision", that work great for making visual models. I mean really amazing features. 5000 faces is probably fine. To slice faster you can do thicker layer height - I mean just for experimenting with different settings.

Try logging out of marketplace. Cura blocks certain plugins based on your email which may match up with some company that has a paid upgrade called "cura enterprise". For security reasons, plugins that haven't been vetted by a paid 3rd party are blocked. Even if you don't want cura enterprise your email may match someone who has it. It could be as simple as someone on gmail signed up for it and now all gmail (or outlook.com or imac.com or whatever) users have enterprise by accident. In which case the problem will probably get fixed eventually. The workaround is to just log out of cura so it doesn't think you have "cura enterprise". If indeed logging out fixes it and if your company doesn't have cura enterprise, then let me know.

Decimation won't help with your print time directly but it will help indirectly because you will have more time to experiment with settings like what angle you position the model, what type of support you use, and so on.

70,000 triangles is a lot. I've sliced that many before on very rare occasions. I would try reducing the number of triangles aka "decimation". This will make your life better such that you can try out more slicing experiments. Most of my models slice in about 4 seconds. I use this technique. This is the only thing I use meshlab for and it's wonderful: http://www.shapeways.com/tutorials/polygon_reduction_with_meshlab Or when you export to STL there should be options in your CAD to reduce the triangles. Like a "resolution" option or something. If you use openscad, or DSM I can help you with how to do that.

Well it's been 14 hours and no response so I guess I suggest you go here and post your issue, and include the full log file: https://github.com/ultimaker/cura/issues You'll get a bit better response there typically. Although, let me try one more thing. Maybe @MariMakes has some suggestions of things to try. But I suspect it was your python install. I know you said you uninstalled python but this is still the most likely issue in my mind.

I don't know but I strongly suspect all print jobs are stored for a while on the S5's "hard drive" (it's a solid state drive). It can store hundreds of print jobs. So I would ssh into the printer. Are you good with ssh and linux? If not do you know someone who is? So put the printer in "developer mode" (it's an option in the menus somewhere). Once you've done that the ip address of the printer will appear. ssh to that address with username/password root/ultimaker. I'd then do a "df" to find the large, mostly empty drive. The operating system and firmware are on one partition, there is a tiny boot partition, and then the biggest partition is called "user" or something like that. There should be very little there - just a handful of files. But also possibly material profiles and print jobs. I could be wrong about all this but I strongly suspect your file is there. Once you find the file you can exit the printer and use scp to copy the file to your own computer.

@Cuq - to be clear, are you saying that if you click "drop down model" then it works fine?

Are you really printing ABS on a kobra max? I don't know if it's possible: https://www.reddit.com/r/FixMyPrint/comments/1328dvt/anycubic_kobra_max_issue_with_abs/

Or you can post the gcode here. But if you do that please also post the project file ("file" "save project as").

So in the screenshot above you have the gcode flavor set to "ultimaker". You can change that to "marlin" and then suddenly start and end gcodes should appear that you can edit. The cool thing about UM2 series printers is it stores a bunch of things on the printer (not in cura) including: bed temp, nozzle temp, retraction distance and speed, filament diameter It's probably rarely used but I have printed the exact same gcode in pla and then petg by just changing the material on the printer. So it's kind of cool. But you can disable all this by doing the above change I mentioned and now you can set all these things in cura settings (like temperature) and also now you will see the priming code and such. And you can edit it. You can also have a mix where some jobs are "ultimaker" mode and some are not. The printer itself knows the difference by the comments in the header.

There are many possible csauses of underextrusion. Most of them are in the print core (but not all!). One quick fix is to just print 3X slower. Also make all the print speeds the same (typically you set the "speed" and this affects about 7 other speeds like infill and if you are doing strength tests and want solid infill then you should really print all at the same speeds - I think if you do engineering profiles it also does everything at the same speed - not certain). However the speeds in the profiles were chosen carefully and it should be able to handle the default profile speeds as long as you don't mess with layer height and temperature in a profile. So another quick fix is to swap out the print core. They are considered "cheap" as they are cheaper than filament (if you for example get a new one every 5 spools of filament). Every S3 should come with two AA 0.4 cores. Did you try swapping? Did you try duncan's suggestion of cleaning the core? There is a process explained in the maintenance menu (cold pull). The filament tends to caramelize into a brown or black crud on the inside of the nozzle. It tends to be a pretty thin layer that reduces the nozzle diameter. Or you can get chunks that partially clog the nozzle. Cold pulls fix the chunks. metal needles fix the layer blockage. You can check in the menu how many meters of filament and how many hours have passed through a given print core. Can you post that number here? One quick test is to use the MOVE menu (start with middle menu on left and then top left icon and then "..." icon). play with how many times you hit the down arrow per second and you should be able to get the filament from the nozzle to the bed in a little under 10 seconds. Let us know how long that takes for you. This can save the time of doing a print to know if you've fixed the issue or not.

I don't think you can make it default "on" for some printers which need it (like non-bowden printers) but default it "off" for other's that don't need it. That's my guess. Looks like ahoeben is about to answer so I may be deleting this answer in a minute, lol.

MacNobes - this part of the forum is english only.

You should email Creality and have them add the NEO to the list! Seriously. I get pretty annoyed that Creality doesn't update Cura promptly and instead they really drag their feet. In fact I suspect that most of those in the list are done by selfless users of the printer and not Creality itself. I really don't know. But anyone can create and add a printer and the Cura team will include it in the next release (which are frequent). No charge. No problem. Anyway, for now you probably want to use one of the other's. @Slashee_the_Cow or @GregValiant might know which and if you have to customize anything.

Are you using the engineering profiles? I have no idea if this is related but engineering profiles are meant to be extra accurate but not be as "pretty". So z seams prominence would not be a high priority in those profiles. I'm probably way off base but just checking.

What is the material "break temperature" for "generic pla"?

I really don't know. I don't have a material station and my firmware on my S5 is several years old. I just know that my print cores don't cool as much. 60C is most likely the correct temperature. This is basically a "cold pull". Google it if you aren't familiar (add "3d printer" to the search). It could be that it needs to be slightly warmer for you for some reason. Maybe your silicone nozzle protector isn't keeping the nozzle warm enough because it is falling apart. Or maybe you have a weak feeder or higher resistance in your bowden due to wear. Or windier, colder environment. If it were me, I'd be curious about the 60C and play with it. Somehow I assume you need to get the above profile to copy over to the printer. So you have to basically update this material profile, then somehow delete it off the S5, then sync up the material profiles (last step is the easiest). Actually I would check what that temp is for "generic PLA" and if the temp is higher I'd tell cura I have "generic pla". I'd probably rip out the RFID tag from the spool so the printer is fooled more easily although I think you can manually override that even if it disagrees with the RFID tag on the spool. But I would never have bought the material station in the first place. It's just one more level of automation keeping me from controlling things on my printer. Keeping me from feeling the tension or being able to do manual loads and unloads of the filament where I can feel resistance and potential issues every time I change the filament; where I can feel how hard I need to push before filament comes out of the nozzle nicely to see if my nozzle is partially clogged. One more potential for things breaking or clogging. So maybe I'm not the best person to talk to about this. 😞