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Oh. Yeah that sounds really really complicated. @tinkergnome - does Marlin allow 3 nozzles in the newer Marlin's? @awmdaj - what kind of printer is this? Do you know where the source code is? There are many many flavors and versions of Mariln and you should start with the source code for the printer you have now.

@3d_rockstar - Just to reduce confusion, when you say "rod" I think you mean "screw". People seem to call that part the screw. If you get an off brand screw there is a small chance you will have to get a nut also that goes with it. But for the most part there aren't very many different versions. @Torgeir - it's a triple helix screw and the pitch is 2mm, right? So doesn't it move 6mm with each rotation? @3d_rockstar - keep in mind you can buy this complete assembly (stepper and screw as one piece and with proper connector soldered on) from Ultimaker. Not particularly expensive. Contact igo3d. Email them. It's not shown on their website but they can get any part of any ultimaker for a reasonable price.

Ah. I don't think so but maybe. The manual leveling basically makes sure the glass is roughly level such that when your part is printed, the bottom layer isn't too crooked. Active leveling slowly switches from the glass level to machine level and that transition means the bottom cm or so of your part might be crooked by the amount your glass isn't level. Anyway, I suspect that's not the issue. @AI3D - There is a level sensor test on the S3. Try running that. I think it takes less than a second? Not sure. I never tried it. It's in the maintenance menu I think.

All of these "startup gcodes" in this topic are located in Cura in machine settings. So once you get your gcode edited in such a way that you like it, you can fix this permanently in machine settings. But let's not worry about that yet. Did you remove the M105? Did it help?

Oh yeah - I've seen many failure modes but not that one! 1) Did you see the 2 wires in the swinging door of your print head? Did you tug gently on them to make sure one didn't break? 2) There are 2 screws to the back of the print head - very long. Remove those 2 and then you can remove the panel on the back half of the top of the head. Inside there is a connector - make sure it's seated well and put back together. Before doing this watch a video of someone else doing it. I've seen a few. Maybe there's one on the ultimaker.com site or maybe on the fbrc8.com site. Use google to search for pictures and/or videos of taking the UM3/S3/S5 head apart (they are all the same procedure). 3) There are 3 leveling screws under the build plate. Make sure they aren't super tight - I think someone maybe once said the gap between plates where those springs are should be around 13mm? I don't know - you don't want them completely loose and you don't want them completely tight - somewhere in the middle. Erin would know. @fbrc8-erin - can you watch the attached video please in the zip file above? Or I can describe it - when it does active leveling the nozzles never even make it to the glass. Any ideas? It's easily 2mm between nozzle and glass. @AI3D - The leveling movements aren't supposed to stop early like in your video - the nozzle should just touch the glass and then it should try the next location or the next nozzle.

Yes you can. tinkerMarlin has a resume feature. You have to know what layer it failed on. So tinkermarlin has lots of features including one where you can position the Z value - when the print fails and power comes back on - make sure to quickly get heat back on the bed - then adjust the Z height such that the head is exactly level with the top of the part. Write down that value on paper. Then you can resume a print - it asks you for which part off the SD card and what Z value. Then it sits there seemingly doing nothing but in reality it is reading through the SD card as fast as it can. It can take several minutes to get through an hour of printing but it's worth the wait. When it gets to the right layer it continues nicely. It heats up the nozzle properly also and doesn't slam into your existing print. So, yes, you can continue failed prints.

grams - Well the gcode specifies exactly how far to move the extruder. In millimeters. So cura knows how much filament is supposed to go through the extruder (if you are underextruding it will be less - for example if you are printing a bit too fast for your printer). Then Cura uses the known density for PLA to calculate the weight. It should be pretty close to the weight of your part. Actually checking the weight of your part is a good way to measure underextrusion. 10% low is typically fine. 20% low is pretty crappy. I've seen parts that were 50% underextruded - they kind of have holes all the way through them.

Time estimates - The original author of Cura 15.X, for a while, had trouble predicting how long a print would take until he finally included the jerk and acceleration values of the printer. At that moment the predictions got impressively accurate. To this day I think cura still uses Ultimaker values of 5000 mm/sec/sec for the acceleration and 20mm/sec for the "jerk" (it's not truly jerk but that is what Marlin calls that setting). Probably they updated Cura to know the actual default settings for Ultimaker printers but probably never did that for other printers like your ONI. Those values might be somewhere in the settings of your printer profile which is probably in some .json file for the ONI. Or they might be in a default json file that the ONI inherits but doesn't modify? You might be able to enable jerk and accel settings and just set them to the actual values of your particular printer. Such that they wouldn't modify the ONI but that might be enough to get Cura to make accurate time estimates.

Chase_c has a ton more information over here: Chace it might be helpful to post your logs.

Get rid of those M105 commands. They shouldn't be there. That's the only thing I see wrong. First step is to make sure this is the issue by editing the gcode directly and see what happens. If that works then the next step is to fix your machine settings...

You could also upload your STL and sketchup model and someone nice here might look it over and find the exact issue. Lots of people here do that all the time.

See red arrow in my photo - if any of those triangles have the normal backwards then it would do exactly as you show in the photo. Or if any of those triangles were missing (just a hole instead of a triangle). The thing I hate about sketchup is that it even allows you to create holes in your walls of your solid. This concept, "hole in the wall of a solid" doesn't make sense in the real world - only sketchup. And most other CAD software won't even allow you to create such a thing as most CAD software is for creating real life things. Sketchup lets you create infinitely thin fantasy things. Sorry for the rant. Try those plugins for sketchup I linked you to - they can check all the normals automatically and let you know if your part is manifold (has no holes in "walls") or not. Again - i hope my concept is clear because in real life such a thing is not possible. It's hard to describe something that I can't touch, see, photograph - something that only exists in certain CAD software like sketchup. Also in Cura you can try xray view and if you see any tiny red triangles in that blue hole in the photo above then those are missing triangles. So to clarify - the most likely issue is either a missing chunk of "wall" or a backwards "normal". Normals tell the STL which in turn tell Cura - which side of every triangle faces solid and which side of every triangle faces air.

Please compare/show us the difference in code between prusaslicer and cura. Including code comments (sometimes comments are read by the 3d printer - unfortunately). Just the begining part up until just before it starts printing.

1) Please take a video just before this happens. I'm wondering if the lifting switch is working and it is truly switching nozzles. 2) Check both nozzle tips for filament leaking - that can sometimes caust this error but rarely because the filament should be too soft to cause a problem. 3) If you open the print head in the part that swings you should see 2 wires. Tug very gently on each wire to make sure neither is loose. I suspect we will need to see the video to diagnose. The video will eliminate easily 5 different possibilities and help narrow down the issue.

Maybe @ahoeben can help.

Also did you try the plugin? It just takes a minute to install and try out. Less than a minute.

In sketchup go back to your drawing and note that some walls are white and some are gray - right click on the gray walls and select "reverse faces". More info (and other potential problems) here: https://i.materialise.com/blog/3d-printing-with-sketchup/

@3d_rockstar - I'm not saying you diagnosed this wrong necessarily but usually the steppers never die. So maybe your issue is with the stepper driver and not the stepper. On the um2 you can't replace the stepper drivers but there is usually a spare that you can use (E1 connector) and then modify the firmware (pins.h). Maybe this is too much information - instead you can connect the Z stepper to the X axis connector and see if it moves when you turn the printer on and home the X axis.

Did you create this model or did you download it? I think it has errors. What CAD do you use (I have different advice depenind on the CAD). Cura has an amazing plugin to test your model to see if something is wrong with it and can repair a very few of the many potential problems: In the upper right corner of Cura click "marketplace" and make sure you are on the "plugins" tab and install "Mesh Tools". Then restart Cura. Now right click on your model, choose "mesh tools" and first choose "check mesh", then "fix model normals" and "fix simple holes" to see if that helps. Cura doesn't fix most is

This is unrelated but just as important - see how some of the exterior walls of your model are white and some are gray? They need to be all white or cura does unpredictable things. So right click all the gray walls in sketchup and choose "reverse faces". But to your issue - I'm not certain what the problem is. In Cura, make sure to look at your print in PREVIEW mode and scroll through the layers paying most attention to the last (top) layer. I'm wondering if maybe your printer stopped printing early - there was a problem with Marlin (firmware) on the UM2 a while back where it wouldn't print the last few lines of gcode. It seems unlikely that your printer has the same problem but still. Or maybe you have a lot of backlash in your printer (e.g. the belts are loose). Or maybe you are underextruding but I don't notice underextrusion anywhere else.

"initial layer height" is the setting you want. It's easy to find these - the trick is to use the settings search box. Just above most of the settings is a search box. Type "layer" into that search box and even hidden settings will show up. It's important to realize that there is more than one layer height, probably about 7 line widths, maybe 7 speeds, and so on. Not just one speed. Not just one layer height setting. That search box is critical for me.

You got the 24Volt part right. So UM cores are around 24 ohms and 3dsolex cores are around 19 ohms.

So 3dsolex cores are 30W. Ultimaker cores (all the one's I've tested which I think is all of them) are 25W. You can change the heater to a 35W and it will work but it may oscillate a bit unless you also modify the PID values. I recommend sticking with 25W. They are "ceramic" heaters. I don't know what that means. The diameter is an even integral mm. I forget if it's 2mm, 3mm, or 4mm.

Oh - but there are 9 "line width" settings. Type "line width" into the search box and make sure they are all the same value.

Yes, exactly.