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.4mm layer height! Wow. You should be using a larger nozzle. I'm pretty sure you can use UM2 nozzles on the UMO. It's easy to get leaks and I forget how to avoid those. When you assemble the nozzle into the aluminum block I think you want the nozzle to hit something inside before it hits the aluminum face so it won't leak (threads themselves always leak). Yes, 10mm^3/sec is fast as hell. 230C will work better but you should really get a bigger nozzle. .6mm nozzle will print about twice as fast as 0.4 and 0.8 will print about 4X as fast as 0.4mm nozzle. Oh - I remember one problem with um2 nozzles is you have to reset the leveling switch and I had to actually lengthen the slots for the Z switch to move it high enough (um2 nozzles are much shorter).

I mean if you want really good quality I suppose I would print it in 3 different wall panels flat on the bed. Maybe.

For bridging it's good to experiment with a tiny part first. google around for advice. If you get the @burtoogle version of cura it has a lot more bridging options but I can't tell you what will work best for you. This is the version of Cura I usually use: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/s43vqzmi4d2bqe2/AAADdYdSu9iwcKa0Knqgurm4a?dl=0&lst=

So sketchup specifies which part of every surface faces air and which side faces plastic. This information is stored in the STL file as something called a "normal". Your normals are backwards inside that part. In sketchup you can tell because the surface is gray instead of white. Right click on that surface and select "reverse faces". More sketchup tips for future models: https://i.materialise.com/blog/3d-printing-with-sketchup/ If you are new to sketchup I suggest you switch to a solid modeling CAD versus sketchup which lets you create infinitely thin planes. Normal CAD software does not let you do that. Sketchup makes it work to seal up all solids - people often forget to seal in the bottom for example. But if you are a sketchup expert then definitely read the advice in the above link.

You probably just need to cut the filament to a point before loading.

I believe the Taulman material is guaranteed not to have toxic additives. It still should typically only be used for one time food use (first time is very safe). You can probably disinfect it with alcohol as most filaments don't dissolve in alcohol.

The UM2+ stepper has a different shaft than the UM2. It also has a gear permanently mounted. You can order this part at a reasonable price from any Ultimaker reseller (you can order basically *any* part from *any* reseller as long as you know the part number - they don't list all the parts but they will sell them - but you will have to wait a while because UM ships to the reseller and then the reseller ships to you). You can also get chinese versions of all these things at aliexpress. The UM2+ stepper has no more power than the UM2 stepper. They are the same torque. Same power. Same steps. Different shaft. The difference is that the "plus" feeder has 2X gearing to get twice the torque at half the speed. This has nothing to do with the stepper. [correction - different number of steps - so maybe different torque - maybe same torque - don't know]

It's probably fine but once it's back together heat it to 220C and if it goes up to 220C without getting "heater error" then it's fine. If it's broken the most likely failure mode is it won't heat up above room temp. No heat at all.

I think you have 2 unrelated issues: 1) X axis slipped - you need to tighten the hell out of the set screws on all 6 pulleys on the X axis in particular the 2 on the short belt (the motor and the other one). These are harder to get to but you can push the head around and use the long green hex driver that comes with the printer. It's critical that you use a tool that fits nicely or you will wreck those set screws. Most people don't believe me that it is slipping so if you don't believe me then use a sharpie to mark the shaft and pulley on motor and the other pulley on the short belt. The screws should be so tight that you are afraid you will break something. The shaft of the hex driver should be twisting a bit. 2) underextrusion. This is cause for "lighter weight" and "weak part" and more. Much harder to isolate. Step one is to figure out if it is caused by feeder or hot end or settings. Are you printing faster or thicker layers than when it was working fine? If so that could be your culprit. The UMO should top out at around 7 cubit mm per sec at normal temps or 10 cubic mm / sec at bad-quality-high-printing-temps of 230C (okay to do if you are trying to print super fast). To calculate volume multiply print speed by "line width" by "layer height". Test the feeder first - it should hold about 5kg or about 10 pounds - put the filament about half way down the bowden and hold the big gear with one hand and pull like hell on the filament. It should not slip easily. It should take about all your strength (or more) at that awkward angle). Lift a 10 pound or 5kg weight for comparison. You want the feeder on the UMO tightened such that the spring on the feeder is around 13mm. Quite tight. It should dig into and mark the filament somewhat. If you have been printing hot for a while or if you have been printing 500 to 1000 hours or more, then you may be at the end of life of the teflon part. Those are "consumables". Like filament.

Sorry, I don't know the answer to your question as I rarely use support - I usually design my own. Is this your design? If so note that the top of the windows don't need any support - but that the "shelf" a few mm higher up above the windows *does* need support as printers can bridge the tops of windows just fine. However if you angle that at 45 degrees it shouldn't change the look of the train car at all and then it won't need any support. So if it were my design I would make the upper walls of the train get thicker more slowly - at 45 degrees. And I would set support to "touching buildplate" instead of "everywhere". I would probably also modify those other parts but I don't know what they do so I don't have suggestsions other than to do the support for those in cad (just a thin wall supporting the outer edge of those two attachment things).

I don't know what "here" is. Where are you downloading files from? Maybe include a link to the page where you downloaded something from. In general there are 2 important file types: STL and gcode. STL files describe the thing you want to print - basically the output of CAD software. Usually if you want to print something - you need the STL file. But before you print it you then have to slice it using Cura or another slicer. Every printer manufacturer should have a recommended slicer and recommended settings. The slicer converts the STL file into a gcode file. The slicer asks you questions like what material are you printing (usually PLA), how thick do you want the layers. How much infill do you want (usually 20% is good), how thick should the shell be before you get into the infill (usually 1.2mm), how big your nozzle hole is (usually around 0.4 to 0.6mm). And so on.

I don't know for sure. I sell 3dsolex cores in USA. 3dsolex has sold thousands of cores in Europe alone. Every reseller is different. Some resellers are very generous regarding warranty. Basically if the problem that needs warranty work wasn't caused by the 3dsolex hardcore then you should be fine. You could ask your reseller. I wouldn't worry too much. The printer is easy to repair. Resellers can sell you *any* part in the printer at somewhat reasonable prices.

Maybe show a photo of this "enlarged camera"? Maybe it's something that is created by solidworks? Maybe there is a way to not export the "camera"?? If your model has extra parts to it that you don't want, the mesh tool allows you to split your model up into components and you can then delete what you don't want to print.

The "plus" kit from Ultimaker of course is awesome. Upgrades your UM2 to a UM2+. But it is something like 400 euros. There is a chinese version much cheaper but I have no idea if it actually works or has serious flaws.

Oh crap. I'm completely confused. You can't use the DDG with the UM2. Only with the UM2+. Sorry! Everything is wrong - gear, mounting holes. Sorry. You can buy the bondtech QR extruder for UM2 - it costs a LOT more however and comes with its own stepper. I'm not a huge fan of the QR because it's a pain to open (takes 20 seconds - yes I'm spoiled - but you'll be annoyed also) to slide filament in and out. I personally have the medusa feeder on 2 of my printers. But that's complicated. If you have the time and want to save the most money - that's a great deal: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/meduza-um2-belt-geared-feeder-improved

You did exactly what I said not to do. The printer only has the temp sensor. If the heater gets hot and it isn't close to or connected in some way to the temp sensor (e.g. through the block) then the printer thinks the block is cooling. Because it is. so it cranks up the heat. I warned you it would get over 600C (it starts to glow around 600C). Hopefully you didn't ruin the heater. Look heating it is not the most important step. But I usually work on it while it is hot. With power on. Maybe I'm just a sucker for finger burns. But it should work fine without heating. The key technique is using that steel sewing needle. And prying forcefully steel needle slipping between the steel heater shell and the brass block.

Don't give up! I've done several and I got tips from someone who has done about 100 of these. I like to heat it up. Before that I also spray WD40 in there. If you do heat it up DO NOT let the heater come out while hot. If it comes out it will very rapidly heat up to 600C and turn bright orange (red hot to white hot). Because the temp sensor keeps saying it's not heating up. Anyway I like to heat to 200C. But this is not the most important trick. The most important trick is to find a steel needle - a sewing needle or sewing pin. Stick that down into the tiny crack between the block and the temp sensor and then push the needle over prying the sensor up (you will destroy the sewing needle by the way). Repeat this over and over. Remember that brass is much softer than steel and you may be denting it around the rim/edge but this is not a problem. Keep doing this over and over and within a minute or two you may notice that the sensor is a few mm out of the hole. At that point you can use needle nose pliers but be very careful not to grab the sensor by the wires. Try rotating the sensor within it's tunnel first before pulling.

Nice! I'll let other people know.

I recommend you get the bondtech DDG. It's only about $95 or about 95 euros as well. However if you are seeing lots of underextrusion, the problem is likely the teflon part. You are supposed to replace that every 500 hours of printing or so. Those are sold quite cheaply by Ultimaker resellers (unlike say inkjet printer manufacturers - Ultimaker does the opposite and keeps the price on consumables extra low). I recommend you just get the teflon part. And you should probably get an Olsson block while you are at it. If you had the Olsson block you could remove the nozzle only and use a 3mm drill to widen the teflon a little bit which will make it last a few more days while you wait for the new teflon part to arrive.

There's a LOT of discussion of this issue and a few solutions over here:

In the upper right corner of Cura click "marketplace" and make sure you are on the "plugins" tab and install "Mesh Tools". Then restart Cura. Now right click on your model, choose "mesh tools" and first choose "check mesh", then if that passes choose "fix model normals" and "fix simple holes".

Yes, don't use brass nozzles. 3dsolex sells a stainless steel 0.5mm nozzle. You have to get the "hardcore" to go with it. Your cheapest option is to get the hardcore 2 kit (2 nozzle kit) and a steel nozzle separately. Tell them you do not want the ICE coating. Actually you can ask them if the ICE coating is food safe (it probably is - I think it's either nickel or teflon or something like that?).

1) First know that this is called a "head flood". You can contact your reseller and they might fix it for you if you ask nice. As a minimum it would be good to report the problem so that they have an idea how common this is. 2) Secondly know the cause. It's never a leak - but there are 2 possible causes - the door fell open during a print (this is much less common). When this is all over, check how much force it takes to open the door. You might need to adjust your magnets or your door slightly to improve this. MUCH MORE LIKELY - your print came loose from the glass. When a print comes loose from the glass and the print is wider than it is tall, then the head will drag the print around on the glass like a hockey puck And you get this massive blob as you described and it gets up into the head and then slowly over the next hour pushes the head open. 3) To fix your problem it's best to use a heat gun. If you don't have one, buy one. Or ask a friend. This is the time in your life when it's time to ask for a favor because fixing this without a heat gun is a nightmare. So locate a heat gun. You will be glad you did. Then using that and some tools such as pliers and screwdrivers and other metal tools or posicle sticks and what-have-you - you can pull the blobs off bit by bit. Takes about a half hour.

At under $600 stick with Creality - their quality is reasonable and their prices are crazy low. But 3d printers are nothing like 2d printers. They have a learning curve. They are more like buying a cnc milling machine.

You have a few options. Since you are painting anyway, I recommend you just use some filler. Bondo is a good filler. It's meant for automotive which has both metal and plastics so that one is quite good. Bondo filler is easy to work with. The ironing feature has a lot of options and the defaults aren't the best but here are some suggestions for improving it: in cura check "enable ironing" Read only the neotko posts here - realize the early posts are in a different slicer (S3D) -he is the world expert on ironing since before it was an option in Cura - there's 3 pages of posts to read so only read the neotko posts: