gr5

You didn't answer A or B to my question. I tried to make it easy. I can't answer your newer question until you answer mine. New question: what is "5 speed"?

1) where did you measure your part - the bottom layer or two will usually stick out - this is important to get the part to stick well to the glass. You can fix this (and I usually do) by setting "initial horizontal expansion" to around -0.25. 2) What kind of printer is this? I might change all my answers depending on what printer you have In general the slower you print the better the accuracy and it's also really good to turn off jerk and accel control if you want accurate parts and don't care how pretty they are (everything is a balance so you have to pick what is most important and in your case it is dimensional accuracy). So the default profiles in cura never rarely change even though wonderful features are added every month. Here is (from Ultimaker) the recommended settings for uglier and slower but dimensionally accurate prints (30mm/sec will be even better): dimensional accuracy profile - engineering settings - accuracy mode - meant for 0.4 nozzle Line width: 0.4 Wall thickness: 1.2 Top/Bottom thickness: 1.2 Speeds: 35-40 (all 7 or so speed settings, except travel) Jerks: 20 Horizontal expansion: -0.03 walls: 3 Inital Layer Height = 0.1 Slicing Tolerance = Exclusive Combing Mode = off Outer before Inner Walls = Checked I recommend also turning off both jerk and accel control and setting initial horizontal expansion to roughly half the nozzle diameter.

The nozzle width is compensated for by cura. For example if you slice a cube that is 100mm on a side, the nozzle will traverse 99.6mm along each edge because it is printing inward towards the center of the cube by 0.2mm on all 4 sides (0.2 is the nozzle radius).

Are the circled areas near the top or bottom of the part? If "bottom" then: I think it's not cooling enough - maybe lower the bed temp by 5 degrees and make sure cura has the fan at 100% by this layer as it takes sometimes 5mm before cura has the fan at full speed. The problem is that PLA acts like a liquie rubber band when it comes out of the nozzle and if the layer below isn't quite solid then it pulls it inwards just like as shown in the photo but as it gets farther from the heated bed things get better.

Is the top photo showing the top layer? Is the part supposed to be a) solid or is it supposed to be b) have interesting geometric holes on top ?? If A then this is called "pillowing" and is solved with better cooling (more fan) but if that's not an option for you then you can also just print a bit slower (try half speed) and also add more top layers.

Definitely replace the ptfe part. I'm sure you've done more than 500 hours in the last 6 years or so. People who use their printers every day replace them typically every 3 months. Drilling it out while under pressure (while in the head) and very carefully, is a good way to extend the life long enough while waiting for your shipment to arrive.

I don't recommend it but you can mess with the current. Generally higher current means higher torque but not if the stepper driver gets too hot in which case higher current then means lower torque. So M907 sets the current for all the axes. This is the default, sets E axis (extruder) to 1250ma. M907 E1250 So you can (for example) up it to 1300 ma with M907 E1300. Or lower it to 900ma with M907 E900. You can insert this in the gcode wherever you want the current to change. The current will be remembered at the new level until you power off the machine. If you want to save it more permanently add M500 which saves this setting to longer term memory on your printer. But why do you want to up the torque? It's skipping a lot - well have you changed the teflon part in the last few years? You should be changing the teflon part every 500 hours or so - check your printing hours in the menu system on the printer. As that teflon gets old the extruder has to work harder and harder until it starts skipping. Or maybe you are just printing too fast for your extruder. Or you could upgrade to the "plus" to make yours a UM2+ printer. Or you could do the meduza upgrade (I sell a $19 kit but only if you are in USA). The meduza upgrade and also the "plus" upgrade increase the feeder torque by 2X and it's a great upgrade. The "plus" upgrade costs around $400 USD but you get some other nice bonuses.

If you turn the right side in this image to be down you might not need any support. Not sure - I need to see the part better from all angles. I usually just create my own custom support in CAD if cura doesn't figure it out right away but there are tons of settings you can play with - maybe the x/y wall distance is the one you want?

Very nice. How much did the parts cost? You can get the bondtech DDG for $95 USD which includes the gears plus all the needed parts. But still, very nice. Please post on youmagine or thingiverse and let us know where you posted it and what the parts cost.

If it slices quickly you don't need to do anything - cura removes extraneous moves and you can adjust that in the settings but no need to. But if it is annoyingly slow to slice or load the model you can reduce the qty of polygons in the STL using this easy technique which I've done a few times and works great: http://www.shapeways.com/tutorials/polygon_reduction_with_meshlab

In the last few weeks a few people posted about slow Cura and how they cured it by disabling one of the plugins that was using the network to search for printers or something. You don't have to remove the plugins but you can simply disable them (somehow). I know almost nothing about this - this is just a hint of what to try.

This is a common problem when it's the very very last few layers but you have so many layers to go when doing the girl's face. I would check that the fans are working. And maybe lower the air temperature. You want 100% fan with PLA. Not the bottom layer but by the 5th layer the fans should be at 100% to cool the layer below before the next layer. In addition I would print this "vertical" because you will get much better resolution on the girl's face if you print in the other orientation. But if you print this vertical it looks like she has a pony tail printed last and that might have the same issue unless you also print a tower next to her for cooling purposes - when it prints the tower the model can cool for an extra 4 or so seconds (that's all it usually needs). It's also possible the temperature is off on your core so you could try another AA 0.4 core. But first and foremost check that the fan is working - what I see here is what I would expect if one or both of the 2 side fans were broken.

Like cura, I think S3D has something like "print thin walls" or something similar that you have to enable.

Then I suggest you drill the holes out. That is actually a really good solution for a lot of people. The good news is they are printed too small. If they were too large then you'd be in trouble. 🙂 You can do other - much worse hacks depending on the part shape - you can add a negative horizontal expansion: -0.2mm will work out to .4mm larger holes - but your entire part will be .2mm smaller in X and Y dimensions all over the place. You can the compensate that by scaling your part bigger (don't scale Z direction!). But now the holes are the wrong distance apart. So depending what you care about (part overall size versus hole spacing versus hole size) you can fix one or 2 of the overall issues. I also recommend you learn a CAD - it's a valuable life skill. Like touch typing. Here's a guide to help you pick one: https://www.gliffy.com/go/publish/5271448

You should probably talk to prusa experts. Anyway here are some possibilities: 1) The M115 - I've never seen that before. That might change the functionality of the M28 command that follows it. I'd try copying this to just above the G28 W line. Note that G28 is where it homes the Z (and other axes). M115 U3.0.7 ; use the latest firmware version 2) T0 - This chooses tool zero or in other words your primary extruder. This isn't normally necessary for a single extruder machine. But this can sometimes alter the Z height due to offsets in the printer for different extruder nozzles. It sounds crazy for a single extruding machine but try it. Put the T0 right after the M107. 3) Z speed. I notice that S3D lowers the speed to F800 - that's in mm/minute so divide by 60 to get mm/sec which is 13.33mm/sec. Cura sets it to 60mm/sec in this line: G0 F3600 X116.61 Y97.216 Z0.2 It's normally moving X and Y much farther than Z but if the head was already near X116 and Y97 then it's trying to move the Z faster than you would expect is possible (although really the firmware in the prusa should also limit the Z but maybe it's set too high or maybe there's a bug in the prusa firmware and it's not limiting the Z speed on compound moves like this - you'd be amazed how many bugs are in there). So I'd try lowering that F3600 to F800 to match S3D for that opening move. I'm not saying you should *always* edit your gcodes direclty - this is just the first step to figure out what is different between the slicers - once we know the problem we can fix it in cura settings.

Ooh - it sounds like it was somehow related to the mark2 firmware? I'd lower the infill speeds to 30 to be safe although 45 should be okay normally. If a filament is too wet it tends to sizzle and pop and you can usually see steam coming out. It can be in a "between" state where it doesn't sizzle much but the performance goes down. Anyway PLA and ABS never seems to absorb water. I have years old PLA and ABS that are still fine with no dessicant, no special storage. I'm not sure about CPE - I've never had a moisture issue with CPE but I've only done 100 or so prints in CPE. Nylon, PVA have major issues with absorbing water but probably not CPE (maybe, not sure) . Really you have to watch it on that layer where it goes from perfect to insanely bad. You have to see what is going on - did the plate suddenly drop 2mm instead of the normal layer height? Did the extruder stop extruding? Did the printer speed up there or the fan suddenly come on there? Maybe video the start of that bad layer because *something* goes terribly wrong part way through that print.

@OI_3 please post the log. A lot of people say cura is slow and it's often related to network issues and is often helped by disabling plugins related to printing over the network. Are you saying it's slow or it doesn't launch at all or it launches but.... something? Please define "does not run" with more details.

I still think the problem is related to one of those 2 gcodes I highlighted.

wtf??? Okay so those lines that start with semicolon are just comments - they don't do anything for the printer they are more for you to see what settings were used when you look at the gcode file. That makes no sense. it just starts printing without any step for purging or homing or anything. It doesn't set bed temp, it doesn't set nozzle temp, it doesn't turn on the fan. This works? Okay well you need to talk to someone who knows prusa printers. Well try this - delete everything in the cura gcode file up to and including that M107 and see if it prints okay. That will tell us something.

It took me a year to be as fast with DSM as I was with sketchup but now I'm glad I switched.

If you are new to sketchup (less than a few months) then yes it's good to switch now. If you've been using it every day for a year and your hands move over the keyboard faster than you know what they are doing (in sketchup) then I recommend sticking to it and reading that link above. It talks about plugins that can check that your models are manifold automatically. sketchup gets a bad name because we see so many bad models here but once you read that article above it can be just as good as any other cad software.

This is normal for all 3d printers. PLA is like snot when melted - it sticks to itself and is stretchy. As it comes out of the nozzle it cools slightly and shrinks and is like a liquid rubber band. When wrapping around that hole it is pulling inward and the final dimensions of vertical holes are typically 0.4 to 0.5mm smaller than in CAD. This is VERY Hard to fix in the slicer as the possible geometries are infinite. Not everyone prints flat plates with vertical holes. Note that horizontal holes don't have this problem. Anyway the normal fix is to add around 0.4 to 0.5mm to the diameter of every vertical hole in CAD. This is not the only technology where you have to "fudge" things like this. It's much worse with injection molding - there you can't even let 90 degree corners be 90 degrees! Unfortunately there is no magic fix with cura settings (e.g. negative horizontal expansion and scaling) unless your part is extremely simple.

I'm not sure what to do to make the walls thinner as I don't often use suport but... you don't need any support for this model so just turn it off. Those ledges are angled upwards and small and should print just fine. And the door ways and windows have a flat bridge at the top (as all windows and doorways do) so you don't need any support there either. Anyway there are a TON of support settings - like maybe 30 or 50? But I'd just turn it off for this model.

This is a common problem in sketchup and SO EASY to fix. So in sketchup the default material is white on the outside and gray on the "inside" - the side facing solid plastic. You have this backwards on your holes. So right click on all gray surfaces and choose "reverse faces". Then re-export to STL and you should be fine. I suspect the only problem spot is the inside of those vertical holes. Much more details here: https://i.materialise.com/blog/3d-printing-with-sketchup/

Oh! Good. So the problem is with probably those 2 lines of gcode I posted. What do the first 40 lines of gcode look like from repetier? I can't tell you what is wrong with the above commands as I don't know Prusa. You could also try asking on the Prusa forum. Or just post the first 40 gcodes from both repetier and cura so we can see the difference.