gr5

Did you print the iRoberti feeder to go on the medusa? Or are you still using the black feeder. If you use the iRoberti feeder on there then you just slide filament in and out of the printer - no need to use any menu items at all.

You put the base with the fans on it backwards. The angled edge faces the front of the printer to hide the heater block visually.

I looked this over again. I think the gcode file got corrupted after you copied it to the SD card (are you printing through an SD card?) I think somehow one of the X10.1 or X10.4 got changed to X101 or X104 - the period got lost. Actually it would be the first 10.4. Can you open the file on the SD card and check that? I'd try writing the gcode file to a new location on the SD card and try printing the copy (instead of the original) - just the first few seconds to see if it makes the big triangle.

It sticks out quite a bit - maybe it's normal. If it's in half way then it will probably be fine. It sticks out much more than the sensor (which can potentially go in all the way).

Did you download and try the burtoogle version? That will solve all your problems. I feel like I'm talking but you're not listening. Sorry - it's a little frustrating when I get the same question 10 times and 9 people try my answer and are like "that's amazing" and then the tenth person seems to ignore me. 1) I'm not sure if you know what 25 cubic mm means. It's a volume. If it is a perfect cube then it would be 2.9mm on a side. Is that what you were trying to say? I'm not sure what you mean. 2) So you printed a 25mm cube and then another 25mm cube and one is perfect and one is 25.4? I don't get it. 3) "additional .4mm is my nozzle width" - okay so this is a common thing for people to worry about. If you slice a solid 25mm cube and your line width is 0.4mm, cura is smart - it knows that the lines of filament will stick outside the nozzle by 0.2mm all around so it shrinks all the walls inwards by .2mm which should result in 23.6mm of movement in the gcode and a 24mm cube. The people who wrote cura are pretty damn smart. Now if your cube is hollow it also steps inward (into the wall) for the inner walls. So if you have a hollow cube with 3mm thick walls, cura knows to attempt to print them thinner than that. 4) So what you see in the third diagram you show? That's fixed in the burtoogle version of cura. The official cura release doesn't do thin walls great. Burtoogle version has some nice fixes for thin walls. 5) What you show in the first photo - Cura can't do that - the way it thinks about inside and outside - it just can't do that. Sorry. People (including me) have been asking for that for about 6 years now. Programmers say it's not going to happen. Some day it will happen but don't hold your breath. Actually there is a mode called "vase mode" that can do what you show in the first photo - but the way you do that is a hack. You first give cura A *solid* model with the inside filled in solid. Than choose vase mode and it will just do one pass around the outer wall just like you want. You have to set the line width to how thick you want the walls and even if you have a 0.4mm nozzle you can do 0.8mm walls if that's what you tell cura to do but cura will do it in one pass.

lol. Yeah - I never print that fast but recently did a test with UM2+ feeder (about same as meduza feeder) and got I think 16mm^3/sec with < 5% underextrusion. Insane. Quality not so great but at least no underextrusion.

You really want the TinkerMarlin version of Marlin - it's so much better. It has so many more critical features (like being able to reverse motor direction and steps/mm and continue a failed print and dozens of other really nice features. You can get it here: https://github.com/TinkerGnome/Ultimaker2Marlin/releases/ You might have to do a "factory reset" but probably not if you currently have a valid Ultimaker version of marlin. The issue is many settings are stored in eeprom and each version stores them in a different place. But all newer versions of marlin know how to upgrade older versions. It's when you go backwards in version that you get strange results and you have to do a factory reset.

Please show a photo or a short (maybe 5 second) video of the problem. You may be right that the nozzle is too far from the bed. confirm by pushing up on the bed while it prints the first layer. If that is the problem then maybe you need to talk to the "maker select v2" people about how to calibrate the bed leveling properly. Some prints are just barely on the edge of being okay or not okay on the first layer as it's just a little to far from the bed but might work anyway if you print a little slower or some other thing.

What software are you using for cad? If it's sketchup or blender I can help you with fixing the model. You can look at the model in cura in xray mode - if you see any red then that's the issue - you can zoom in and pan around until you understand it better. You can fix any model with the netfab free service online. You have to create an account but it's free. I'm not sure where there are mesh tools to check your model. Try googling around a bit. Meshmixer is free and has some features for fixing non-manifold models but I haven't tried that feature yet. It could be that your model is fine (manifold) and you simply have model walls thinner than 0.8mm. This is common with architectural models where there are lots of very thin walls. If that's the problem then it's easily fixed with certain cura settings. You could test for this by setting line width to 0.1mm just briefly to see if that fixes your issue.

Good for making yogurt also! Seriously.

So that link - I checked it - didn't want you posting virus infected versions 🙂 It's created by a user on this forum named burtoogle - I know him personally and I trust him. But of course he could be inserting evil code in there. I use his versions of cura myself as they slice better, have better defaults in the profiles, and fewer bugs.

I can't tell with that extra tiny photo. Usually when people post photos here I can click on them and zoom in but not your photo. Here is a guide that shows you how I level (takes about 20 seconds) and how I adjust it *live* at the start of a print and some still shots of what it looks like if it's too squished or not squished enough (the bottom layer): Watch starting at 42 seconds.

Right - you could set the line width to 0.39 or 0.35 - you can print down to about 0.35 without much (any?) noticable loss in quality. Or up to around 0.6 (but you may need to print slower).

Yeah there's no triangle in the gcode. Strange. Does it do it before or after the line on the left edge? The line on the left edge is drawn with these commands: G1 X10.1 Y20 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to start position G1 X10.1 Y200.0 Z0.28 F1500.0 E15 ;Draw the first line G1 X10.4 Y200.0 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to side a little G1 X10.4 Y20 Z0.28 F1500.0 E30 ;Draw the second line Looking over the gcode it all looks fine.

We aren't sure what is best as this is a newer version of Marlin than we are familiar with. I'd disable it for a few minutes to figure out if everything is working - normally you don't need PID for the bed - you might have better luck with "bang bang" mode instead. Anyway if you disable this, then turn on the bed - pay attention to see if the temperature reading in Marlin is correct. If not you have to fix that first. It it is correct then check to see if the bed heats up. If not then you have to fix that.

@burtoogle? You probably want to download the burtoogle version - I suspect it will do a somewhat better job or burtoogle might have suggestions but he's probably asleep right now - maybe in a few more hours he can answer you.

Thanks for posting this! I just added your link to my list of tricks for future people with this issue.

copy and paste the first 50 or so lines of gcode here please.

This is a common issue. If you created this in sketchup go back to your drawing and note that some walls are white and some are gray - right click on the gray walls and select "reverse faces". Best to fix your model. Alternatively look at all the mesh features in cura - try unchecking "union overlapping volumes"

@tinkergnome - any ideas?

You have massive underextrusion in the photo. Yeah it's the flow, not the extra prime. Well you shouldn't be doing extra prime - I suppose that could cause the extruder to skip a bit. I just tested an original UM2 with original feeder (but new bowden and new teflon) and it was able to do 10 mm^3/sec with no underextrusion. It could do 16 mm^3/sec with slight underextrusion (about 10% - very thin cracks between infill lines). Change the ptfe. It will change your life, lol. Oh wait - I think you just ordered one from my store. I think you will be pleased.

@StarNamer - does that answer your question? I can explain the others if you want. I guess SKIN is least obvious - if you have a 1mm top/bottom thickness then sometimes it is printing "skin" which can be the topmost layer or it can be the layer just below but not including the other types like WALL. If you look at an individual layer - cura thinks of everything as islands. You have to think in 2D which is tricky - you have to forget it's a 3d part - and you see these islands encircled by WALL and with INFILL or SKIN inside them.

Or you can limit your search to ultimaker forum by putting this into google: pillowing site:ultimaker.com

Oh yeah. We call that pillowing. You need more cooling or slow down or more top layers. Or a combination of all 3. google for pillowing and 3d printing and you'll see other examples and discussion.

sketchup is designed to make nice models in virtual space. Not physical space. Most CAD programs are made to create real life parts. If you don't want to learn a new cad then you need to read this to become a sketchup-to-3dprint expert - it's an easy read - took me about 2 minutes to get all the points absorbed: https://i.materialise.com/blog/3d-printing-with-sketchup/