gr5

Just disable support. It looks like you don't need any for this print. To answer your question though... when you create a surface in sketchup and then connect them together to make solids, you are supposed to tell sketchup which side faces air and which side faces inside (solid). If the surface is white then good. The gray side should face inwards. If you see any gray surfaces or walls in your model then just right click them and click "reverse faces". Not doing this means that sketchup is confusing cura about that surfaces are inside and what surfaces are outside. This confuses cura about where things need support. Add to that the "support horizontal expansion" feature and you get these support "walls".

for now you can use a USB flash drive. Hopefully someone else will answer you.

when you "save as..." and choose STL you can then hit the "options" button before you hit "ok". That gives you this dialog below. I have it set to 10 degrees which means a cylindrical hole will have at least 36 segments (36 X 10 = 360 degrees). Don't go too fine. If you do lots of line segments in a small space - for example if you have 1mm rounded corners each with 20 line segments you will get horrible results because Marlin which is the firmware in all UM printers has trouble looking forward more than 16 gcodes (aka line segments) at a time and has to be ready to stop and will slow down much too much on corners. I find 10 degrees usually works well.

Please post the first 100 lines of the gcode and also what kind of printer do you have?

I have seen this exact problem with water absorbent filaments (nylon and PVA). I have never seen this with PLA or ABS. Nylon needs to be dried. Leaving it in a "normal" dry room - even in the winter - it will absorb too much water within a day. Some nylons are ruined within an hour on the back of the printer so you can't even do a 2 hour print. Most nylons are fine for a multi-day print. What tends to happen is the first cm or 2 of nylon gets nicely dried out when the nozzle is heating up and so the begining of the brim looks great and slowly gets worse. Put a piece of your filament on the print bed and heat it to 60C with a towel over it. For about 20 seconds. Then bend it and poke it and then repeat at 80C and 90C and 100C and 110C. Find out what temperature is likely to ruin the filament. Then pick a temperature 5C cooler and put all the filament on the bed with a towel over it. If you are lucky you can dry the filament at 100C which dries faster. If it's a spool where it's hard for the heat to penetrate then heat it overnight. If it's just 10 meters then an hour should be enough to dry it out. Nylon is a common plastic. Did you know what types of plastics were in your filament? Did the plastics have recycling numbers on them which gives you a strong clue? Or is it just random plastics?

One more thing. Nylon absorbs water from the air like crazy. If you have left your filament out in the air for a day or two you need to dry it. Set the print bed to 90C and put the whole spool of filament on the bed and cover it with a towel (or put the filament in a closed cardboard box - towel is better). Or cover with a sheet. Leave overnight like this. If you are only printing 1 meter of nylon then you can cut 2 meters (one for the bowden) and leave that on the bowden at 100C for 20 minutes. I keep my nylon stored with a large (fist sized) box of rechargable dessicant (very cheap on ebay) that changes color when the dessicant needs to be recharged in the microwave. If you don't keep the nylon dry it doesn't stick as well to the glass and it foams as the water inside boils. If it's very wet you can hear the sizzling and popping as the nylon comes out and you can see steam. And the nylon isn't clear - it's like snow (matte). Instead of like ice (clear, glossy). But if it's only a little wet you can't see a problem but it doesn't print as well.

I've printed Novamid 1030 but not 1070. But I've printed probably 7 different types of nylon filament and they are mostly the same. However 1070 is much stiffer than most filaments so it will be much more difficult where "warping on corners" is concerned. First of all 60C is crazy. Stupid. Bad. 100C will be much better. The recommended temp I found on the internet for Novamid 1070 is 100C to 120C. Nylon is very different from PLA in a few ways - first of all it gets softer very gradually as it gets warmer so at 80C it will be more flexible than at 60C and at 120C it will be getting very flexible but it will always bend back. In comparison, PLA gets like clay as it gets warmer - if you deflect it when it is above 52C it will stick with it's new position. LIke if you poke clay. But Nylon when it's at these temps will bounce back. Like rubber. Anyway make sure you set the bed to 100C. I recommend cutting a 10cm length, bend it a few times in your hand and remember what it feels like, then place it on the bed at 100C for 20 seconds, then pick it up and bend it again. Sometimes touching your filaments at temps of 60C, 80C and 100C (and 110C for ABS) can be enlightening. Try bending it enough so it will permanently in a new shape. I don't think that will happen at temps below 110C for Nylon. It's important to use lots of brim in cura. When I print Nylon I coat the glass with a very thin layer of PVA. You should use some kind of surface treatment like 3DLAC or hairspray or woodglue mixed with water or gluestick spread on the glass with a wet tissue (to remove 90% of it and to spread it extra thin). Don't just use gluestick by itself without spreading it super thin. However, one time when I printed UM Nylon with that thin layer of gluestick it stuck too well and removed a sliver of glass from my S5 print bed. UM recommends a thick layer of gluestick to protect the glass. So maybe start with that and if it's still warping then do a thin layer of gluestick. I have a video that shows how I do PVA - 3 different methods. If you use my methods parts will stick so well you will be chipping the glass occasionally. It's worth it. My glass budget is tiny compared to my filament budget.

I don't work for UM but @smartavionics (who also doesn't work for UM) might be interested in adding the feature. Probably not. But maybe. The best place to request new features is on github. You have to create a github account but it's free. Report bugs and feature requests as an "issue" here: https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/issues/

There is an infill layer height. You can make infill layers twice as thick (so print twice as fast). But not support.

MATERIAL/PRINTCORE scroll down to PRINTCORE 1 but don't click it. Look at the bottom of the display. Repeat for PRINTCORE 2 If one of your cores is programmed wrong (for example it's an AA 0.4 but the printer thinks it's an AA 0.8) then you can fix it by using the instructions here: http://gr5.org/cores/

Wow. First check that the gantry is square. It just takes a few seconds. Push the head around with your hands and put it in the center and look down to see if the rods passing through the head are as visibly crooked as these circles. Then push the head to the 4 sides and make sure the side blocks reach the same end position and at the same time. For example if you push the head to the center rear position as far as it goes - the left and right slider blocks should both be all the way back. Sometimes one block is clearly not as far back because one belt or the other slipped a tooth. This kind of thing is usually caused by belt pulleys that are not drilled in the center but if so the pattern would be good for a few cm and then bad for a few cm and I don't see that. A large amount of head play might cause this. Gently push the head around without enough force to move the steppers. How far does the nozzle move n X and Y without the head/steppers moving? Printing slower might fix this. I'd try printing very slow - say 25mm/sec - just to see if that fixes the problem. Then you can gradually increase the speed on each layer in the TUNE menu until the problem returns.

So a few things. What nozzle did you slice with? Did you slice with AA 0.4 and BB 0.4? I'm not sure if the left core is slot 1 or slot 0 so it could be either core as far as I'm concerned. Also sometimes a core is misprogrammed. So go through the menus - it tells you what the printer *thinks* is loaded into the left and right slots. So there - you have 2 things to check. You can of course just ignore. I do it all the time.

What operating system? This sometimes happens to me in linux after many hours and I just exit and restart cura.

I suspect your power brick. Don't blame cura, lol. You could try raising the temp of the bed because the resistance is higher at higher temps so uses less power when it's at it's max cycle. Or you could install tinker marlin which allows you to do power budgeting (you could lower the power to the bed). Or even oiling the rods can save some power. Or you could get a new power brick.

But they aren't. If you print a cube that is exactly 100mm on a side and look at the gcode it will print inwards by half the line width (which is usually the nozzle width). What's happening is that PLA shrinks in the first milliseconds as it comes out of the nozzle and is like a liquid rubber band and so vertical holes are smaller than desired because of these forces. Typically I add .5mm to all vertical holes in CAD.

It's not the travel *speed*. This travel distance is tiny - maybe 0.4mm, right? It takes more like a cm to get up to 160mm/sec depending on your acceleration. Acceleration for CR10 is incredibly slow because it moves the whole bed. Probably around 500mm/sec/sec (versus ultimaker which is 5000 to 9000 mm/sec/sec). So I'd be surprised if the speed gets up to 20mm/sec. It could be the jerk speed. Still this is a cool idea. You could easily remove (by hand editing) that one point at the start of the travel and it would just skip that spot and move diagonally and you could see if that fixes it. I recommend downloading and installing "repetier host". It's free. It has a tab on the right screen that lets you examine the gcode on the right side and see the part on the left side. You can go to the layer you care about and click on the gcodes and it highlights the gcode moves in yellow on the left side. You can click and drag a large selection of gcodes to "find your way". Then you can see exactly which gcode is for which move and delete the one in question to see if it makes any difference. You'd probably want to create a small custom part to show the problem and that can print in just 5 minutes so you can experiment to see if this makes things any better. I think you will have better luck just slowing down the print. On the CR10 I think there is a TUNE menu while printing - you could try printing at 1/3 speed to see if a few layers get better and then play with what speed is fastest but still hides the bumps.

The printer will never ever do an odd number of lines in a wall. Cura only makes loops. Never lines that have a start and an end. So the fix is to use a line width that is an even multiple of that box thickness. So for 2mm you can use line width of 0.5mm (which works okay with 0.4mm nozzle) or 0.333mm (which also works okay). The former option is more likely to underextrude but will look better - I recommend doing that. Actually I would try 0.49mm line width and turn off filling "gaps between walls" As far as the shaking, UM printers can shake like hell and it's all good. It may not sound nice but after 2000 hours of shaking a UM printer will be still be fine.

This is a known bug in the latest firmware (5.2) for UM3 and S5 and will be fixed soon. The recommended fix is to push the filament by hand for the second extruder (fortunately you only have to do XY Calibration once every few years when you get a new core, right?)

If sides are 2mm then the wall is 1mm and you can do two trips if you set line width to 0.5 or 3 trips if you set line width to 0.333mm. Also to get rid of the "vibrating" set "fill gaps between walls" to "nowhere". Maybe you should show a photo of what you mean by "box with sides of 2mm". You mean a box that is 2mm by 2mm, right? If you mean the box is much larger but you created walls in cad of 2mm then maybe you should just create a solid box in cad and turn off infill? Maybe turn off top skin also?

PLA is so wonderful that when one switches to another material, one is surprised at how crappy it is. PLA sticks to itself really well when liquid. Like mucus. Like snot. Like a liquid rubber band. PVA does not. It's more like concrete. Chunks of PVA are often separating and falling (while still liquid).

Note that there is a known bug in the XY Calibration procedure for both UM3 and S5 where it does not extrude at all out of the second head. 100% of the time. This is not intermittent. This is not some users. This is all users with the latest (as of today 5/8/2019) firmware which is 5.2.something. So I would avoid XY Calibration as much as possible until the next version of firmware comes out.

How thick is your "skin"? Your walls? Is it at least 2 passes? Are both passes the same width? You have to look at several settings to determine this. My first thought was underextrusion - but no - that's something else. Make sure you have 2 passes on your wall (e.g. with .4mm line width you want 0.8 wall (or 1.2mm) - if you make the wall 0.7 then it will probably to a .4 pass and a .3 pass). Best to make the line width agree with wall width.

Those diagonal stripes we call "zebra stripes". Google about it in this forum e.g. "site:ultimaker.com zebra". There's a nice video that explains what causes zebra stripes and a nice way to fix it posted by I think "triangle labs". I sell a kit that takes care of this. Or you can get it on aliexpress: https://thegr5store.com/store/index.php/tl-smoother-removes-zebra-stripes.html The other issue I'm not so sure about. Hopefully someone else has an idea.

Manual leveling only affects the bottom 2 layers or so. Mostly it only affects the bottom layer. Active leveling can affect the bottom cm only because it's printing the part tilted. I recommend you do manual leveling as it's more accurate and consistant than active leveling. If you need to get active leveling working I can help you but it sounds like you have a much more serious problem. Having it print "in the air" half way through the print has nothing to do with leveling (Z calibration) nor XY calibration. It has to do with underextrusion. Could you please post a picture of the problem?

Oh!!! You should have shown a photo originally, lol. The problem here is that your wall is too thin for one of the hexagons. You have lots of options. You could thicken the walls in sketchup (recommended). You could check the box "print thin walls". If "print thin walls" isn't good enough you could also tell cura to print with a smaller line width (what kind of printer do you have?) For example a 0.4mm nozzle usually prints "okay" down to around 0.3mm. The quality slowly goes down. You could also buy a smaller nozzle. I sell nozzles for 90% of printers out there including all Ultimaker printers down to 0.1mm nozzles. 0.25mm nozzles are great for small prints that need finer details. But your best option is to make the walls of that hexagon 0.8mm thick as a minimum. And check "print thin walls".