gr5

They are M3 screws (3mm - standard thread). With "socket cap" screw heads (although any head type should work). You can indeed measure the length and get similar ones (threading will probably run the length but that's fine).

But there needs to be *another* G92 when it goes from extruder at 4 meters back to zero meters - well into the file. You had E4158 and then suddenly it goes back to E0.04 There needs to be another G92 E0 between those. Otherwise it will retract the 4.158 meters of filament just as you described.

Okay so the problem is in the gcode, not the printer. Something is quite wrong there. Marlin runs on an arduino which is VERY limited and there are many efficiency improvements that can be a problem. One of them is that the extruder position is stored in a floating point number that only has so many significant digits so every few meters, cura resets the extruder back to zero, but should have also included a G92 command to let Marlin know. As in: G92 E0 I can see the extruder was up to 4.1 meters so it makes sense that it would go back to zero around this point but the "G92 E0" is missing. Do you have a plugin that removes all G92 commands maybe? Or did you do some kind of hand edit and remove all G92 commands?

I *only* use manual leveling. Once set, the leveling doesn't need to be messed with for months.

If you are in USA, I sell UM3 and S5 print cores with swappable nozzles at thegr5store.com. Otherwise if you are in the rest of the world try 3dsolex.com.

This has happened to me many times on various Marlin printers. The datapath to USB or SD card is not super reliable. Even though there is a checksum digit, occasionally the error and the checksum match. So what happens is a digit changes. For example: G1 X1 Y1 E1234.234 gets randomly changed to G1 X1 Y1 E1034.234 (this is the change of a single bit) So it retracts 200mm (1234-1034). Then on the next move it moves forward the same amount but it's too late if the filament falls out of the feeder. Also if you watch/listen carefully, occasionally the X, Y, or Z will move by 100mm or so and then move back for no apparent reason and this will usually leave a little noodle/string sticking out the side of the print. I fixed this for my printer by cleaning out the SD card slot. There was a small hair in there (an eyelash I think). I took the PCB out and cleaned it very well with toothpicks, alcohol, qtips. But I think it was that single hair that was the problem. I haven't fixed the other printers that do this. With one printer it was doing it about once every 3 minutes. With the other printer it's once per week so I just ignore it.

Most likely you printed too fast (too much volume per second). Try printing at 1/3 layer height or 1/3 the print speed to see if that helps. You can even mess with the speed while it's printing (you don't have to reslice) so you can experiment and do a few layers at various speeds and keep notes.

I agree with smartavionics. If you can manual level then that is best. Turn the leveling screws so the nozzle is about 0.1mm farther from the print bed than it was when you did this print in the photo.

First of all, "raft" is an old technology (no longer needed for at least 5 years) for printing ABS on printers without heated beds. It's not needed for PLA and it's not needed for higher temp materials if you have a heated bed. I don't understand what you are showing in the upper photo but in the lower photo it's not printing the bottom layer in part of your print. The bottom layer is angled. It's not flat to the print bed. I suggest you use the "lay flat" option in cura and hopefully it will fix it. Or you could rotate the part in CAD such that the bottom layer is flat. Or you could lower the part below the print bed by 0.3mm and that will lose you 0.3mm of the part but maybe that's okay. You have to go to cura settings (not print settings) and uncheck the check box that keeps you from updating the Z. Something like "Force parts to touch build plate". Something like that. Then you can "move" the part in the Z axis and set it to -0.3mm.

The problem is you have severe underextrusion. Maybe about 50%. Your print speed looks to be 30mm/sec with 0.3 layer height and 0.4 line width that is 30*0.3*0.4 or 3.6 cubic mm/sec. That should be doable. So I'd guess your feeder is somewhat weak. You need about 5 pounds or 3kg force to push hard enough to print at that speed with typical printing temps (220C). So I'd test the feeder and make sure it can pull that hard. One way to test is to energize the feeder but don't advance it and then pull back on the filament hard and see how much force it takes for the filament to slip.

What kind of printer is it? Cura expects 0,0 to be in the front left corner. If either your Y or your X axis is backwards then it will print a mirror image.

I agree with geert_2 - printing slower will help these a lot. There is something in cura that creates these but I don't quite understand how to fix them other then simply printing much slower. Regarding the filament sticking to the nozzle - that should be improved if you buy ICE coated nozzles from 3dsolex (disclaimer - I sell ICE coated nozzles also). 3dsolex has these for S5/UM3/UM2 and more. Pretty much all their nozzles are ICE coated now. The coating is a mix of chemicals including some kind of teflon such that molten PLA (and I assume CPE/PET/nGen) doesn't stick to the nozzle.

Even if you always do autoleveling, manual leveling at least once per year is recommended because the more autolevel has to compensate for a crooked bottom layer the less out-of-tolerance your part will be (it will have a crooked bottom 1mm or so if the manual level is tilted by 1mm).

@JudithH - what kind of printer do you have? Cut the filament to a point before feeding it (regardless if it's a UM2/UM3/S5). I use wire cutters and do two cuts at opposite angles. Don't do 45 degrees - try do even steeper. This will prevent it from getting hung up on various changes e.g. top of teflon on UM2 or UM3/S5 cores and several other spots. I like to feed by hand so I can feel each stop until I see the filament coming out of the nozzle. Feeling this on every change allows you to instantly sense when something is wrong. I feed by hand even on my S5.

M92 As in: M92 E98 Put this at the top of the gcode file as it runs the gcodes in order from first to last. The printer doesn't know whats at the end of the gcode file until the end of the print. If you add a M500 then it will save the value after a power cycle. Without the M500 it will still remember the setting until you power cycle or do another M92. So: M92 E98 M500 That will save the values and then you don't have to mess with steps/mm ever again.

Play with the mesh fixes. I think there is one that might fill those tubes. If not, make sure to check "print thin walls" and try setting the "line width" to different values, starting with 0.1mm, just to see how much you would have to shrink the walls.

no, sorry. The UM2 is more hackable. You have to edit the gcode. Basically remove the layers that printed already from the gcode and you have to add a G92 for extruder position (which is broken in 5.2 firmware). Read about G92 here: https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#G92:_Set_Position Basically look at the last E value that you delete and set the position to that value. So if the last deleted printing move was: G1 X123.432 Y23.4433 E1000.5123 Then replace it with G92 E1000.5123 Other wise it will try to extrude a meter on the first printing move.

Almost always this is caused by one of the pulleys that needs it's set screw tightened - most often the pulley on the stepper (the hardest one to get to - murphy's law). However, you might just need to oil something. Higher friction can also cause this problem. Or you might want to lower the acceleration setting for this axis if you have one of those printers where the Y axis moves the entire print bed.

Right now we only get about 2 spams per day but there was a time when we got 20 and a time when we got hundreds per day. When we were getting hundreds per day the queue got so big that occasionally a legitimate post would get lost among hundreds of spams.

Yes you can! If you have a UM2 series printer. Get this firmware which is really great. Really great. And lets you say which layer to resume on: https://github.com/TinkerGnome/Ultimaker2Marlin/releases

Most likely a memory issue where it can't handle your quantity of triangles in the STL file. Do you know how many triangles there are? 100,000 triangles are enough for almost anything the printer can do but surely a million are plenty. Sometimes models have many more. Anyway you can see how many triangles(faces) there are using this technique and you can reduce the quantity without affecting the print much: http://www.shapeways.com/tutorials/polygon_reduction_with_meshlab

This is a very recent bug and is in the latest release of 5.2 firmware (today is April 12 2019 for those reading this post a year from now). The workaround for now is to feed the filament manually. There is a lever on the S5 extruder - lift the lever and push hard on the filament while it's printing the calibration pattern. There is also a workaround involving editing some files on linux but if you have a typo it will brick your machine so for now it's best to feed the filament manually.

PLA. I'm not sure why you think ABS is stronger than PLA. Here is a chart I created that shows two "strength" properties of many thermoplastics. http://gr5.org/mat/ The vertical axis is strength. For example if you used the filament as a rope, the higher up in the graph the material is, the more weight the rope could pull before breaking. This is a linear relationship (twice as high strength handles twice as much weight). It's a very good way to think about strength but more specifically it's "tensile strength". Note that both axes are log. If you use the material for a beam, then "strength" is more complicated and you need to know how flexible it is. More flexible but with the same tensile strength will be stronger because now the beam can bend a bit before breaking. ABS has a reputation for being a little more flexible but with typical additives you can see in my chart that modern PLA filaments are just as tough (flexible) as ABS. Nylon is the next level up - it's much more flexible. Sometimes too flexible. So it matters what kind of parts you are building. If they are like links in a chain where it is mostly just tensile force then most of the materials are about the same. If it's bending forces that sometimes shatter the part then nylon is superior. If it's hardness that you want - like teeth on a gear - then most of the materials are the same but CF filled filaments are superior. Yes Nylon takes more steps (you have to keep it super dry) but after you've printed 100 parts in Nylon you think "what was the big deal again?". I keep my spool of nylon in a zip lock with rechargable dessicants and "unzip" the bag just enough to let the filament out and into the feeder. If I screw up and leave the spool of nylon out or don't recharge the dessicant I can "fix" the nylon by putting it on the heated bed overnight at 80C. Nylon is not going to print as dimensionally accurate as PLA. PLA is the superior material in most ways which is why it is so popular. If you go for a CF or GF (carbon/glass fibers) you will want to get a ruby nozzle (I sell them by the way) and a bondtech feeder. CF and GF are a pain to deal with but if you are printing larger parts they can be significantly stiffer and stronger. I personally like Xstrand PA6-GF30 (nylon with 30% glass fiber fill).

Clones tend to do lots of changes. For example UM uses PT100 sensors but more often printers tend to use thermistors instead. Different clones tend to use different servo types with different steps/mm and different amounts of substepping. They just can't resist making little "improvements". Also there is a strong possibility that the display is not a UM2 style display but is instead a UMO style display. So you might need the Ultimaker Original firmware. Anyway I don't think you'll break anything if you use the wrong firmware. The best firmware to use is the tinkergnome series because you can adjust things like steps/mm in the menu system. It's found here: https://github.com/TinkerGnome/Ultimaker2Marlin/releases If the display doesn't seem to work then try a UMO style of Marlin which you can create here: https://bultimaker.bulles.eu/ To install you need a USB cable and a mac, pc, or linux computer running cura to install the firmware.

@scott-har Check that the PT100s are around 107 ohms at room temperature. @rajilpahuja Is your machine showing 2 heaters or 3 when you go to "preheat"? By default UM2 has one bed and one nozzle heater but you might have a sensor for a second nozzle and if so then scott needs to put something on temp2 to fool the printer into thinking there is a 3rd PT100.