gr5

I strongly doubt it, no. M302 should work through the whole print job. What do you mean by "the machine shuts down the same way without the override". Is it possible the power brick is getting overloaded for some reason and it reboots the printer? When it shuts down does it say "nozzle to cold"? "heater error"? "print aborted"? Or does it just jump straight to the boot screen? I seem to remember on the UMO you could keep printing but the extruder simply wouldn't move. I thought the UM2 did the same thing (no error - no stopping - just keeps moving XY axis but not E axis). @tinkergnome - What do you think?

It should slice to 86 layers if the first layer is 0.3mm thick. The top/bottom thickness... So cura has the word "wall "and "top/bottom skin". When you think of a single slice, wall is the interface between air and part. The wall separates air on one side and infill on the other side of the "wall". Skin is in the Z direction. If you print a cube, it's obvious what's top and bottom. If you print a pyramid there will be some "skin" all the way up the side of the pyramid. At least if the top/bottom thickness is say 2mm. If top/bottom thickness is only 0.06mm then you will only get one layer of skin on "top" and "bottom" surfaces. Again for something like a sphere there are lots of little tiny "top" and "bottom" surfaces/skin.

By the way, I don't recommend .06mm for beginners. Better to get some good quality prints with 0.2 or 0.1 layer height first before moving to 0.06mm.

There is another parameter, "initial layer height". This is the height of the first layer. I'm not sure what the default is - it depends on nozzle diameter and material but 0.27mm is not uncommon. .27 + .06*85 = 5.37mm Or maybe your first layer is 0.3mm.

go to the menu system in cura: "preferences" "configure cura..." Uncheck the box that says "automatically drop models to the build plate". Instead of moving the model by the blue arrow up and down I recommend you enter a Z value (you can do either of course).

Are you sure it's PLA and not PVA? So that blob must have been deep in the print core to get soft. The problem is that the teflon inside your printcore is either too short (manufactured wrong) or has decayed causing an area where pla can spread out. I recommend you just throw it out and get a new core. Maybe get a 3dsolex core from shop3d.ca (disclaimer - I sell 3dsolex cores also).

Oh! I thought you were complaining about the flow sensor. But I see you are complaining about a core. Just get a new one. They are consider "expendables". Like filament. Some of them are bad. Usually I think there's something wrong with the teflon - maybe it wasn't cut long enough or the inner diameter is too large. Maybe consider trying a 3dsolex core? (disclaimer - I sell 3dsolex cores). 3dsolex has had many issues with a small percentage of cores and asked for "bad" ones back and researched all the issues and I think all 3dsolex cores work every time perfectly now. Everything that could go wrong is now known (they've been selling cores for a few years) and inspected for.

Oh - PEI. I thought you meant the Ultimaker bed adhesion sheets. I don't have a lot of experience with PEI sheets - but definitely don't peel it off. Flip the glass over. hopefully it won't stress the clips that hold the glass.

I'd peel off the sheet for Nylon. It's great for PP. Is it already ripped in places anyway? Flipping over is fine. The two sides of the glass are not identical - one side is hydrophobic or something - not sure. But I've flipped over 2 of my glass plates on 2 of my ultimakers and it prints fine. I mean I always have a coating of PVA (as shown in the video) so I'm not sure it matters which side I print on.

What kind of printer do you have? You need to: Get a heated bed that can go up to 160C (simple enough - add a supplemental heater and let the built in heater regulate the temp) Air temp needs to be 65C so you need to enclose the printer Servos need to be cooled (65C will destroy servos, 40C is safe) Nozzle needs to be able to get to 400C (this is maybe the easiest part usually as there are so many hot ends for sale out there to choose from). Teflon melts before 400C so you need an all metal hot end. Which won't work with PLA (can't use PLA with all metal hot ends). More info:

My nylon sticks so well that it sometimes pulls a chunk of glass off when I remove the part. For nylon I use the exact PVA mixture shown in this video but UM recommends to use glue stick alone to prevent damaging the glass (nylon and CPE have each damaged my glass they stick so damn well). Anyway watch this video to understand techniques to keep parts on the glass - you should be able to pick up the entire printer with a small UM robot print (I do this in the video).

I sell them: thegr5store.com Get a 35W while you are at it. The nozzle heats up faster and doesn't limit your printing volume as much: if you print with 0.8mm nozzle and at 0.4mm layers, the standard heater can't keep up (just printed a 1mm nozzle 0.5mm layer part yesterday).

@Edel it's been over a year since you posted this. You talk about "shrinkage" and "warpage" but people have different definitions. In your case: shrinkage=parts smaller near heated bed warpage=parts lift off the bed on corners Solve "warpage" by watching my video again. Clean the bed at least once per month (see the cleaners I use - soap and glass cleaner), use liquid pva (I show 3 methods to do this), use brim for large parts, use curved corners if possible, squish the bottom layer extra. Solve shrinkage - well you already solved it above if you read your posts. Shrinkage is caused because the pla is like a liquid rubber band and pulls inward. It's worse near the heated bed and then recovers moving upwards. You can switch from a heated bed to blue tape. That will help a lot (you must clean the tape with alcohol - watch the video above). You can lower the bed temp to 50C (but now you have to pay a lot of attention to keep the part sticking on the bed - watch my video above). Also printing the inner walls first can help with what you call shrinkage. I think this is on by default: "outer before inner walls" unchecked. Also turning the fan on sooner might help. But may hurt the bottom layer. Also if you are printing small parts it may help to print a few of them. I notice you said that some parts were worse. Maybe those are the parts where it switched layers. If you look at the layer view in cura you can see which part or parts have the layer change - those parts don't have as much time to cool down before it starts another layer. This only matters for small parts.

The problem is that PLA (and PLA HT) sticks to itself as it prints, like snot or mucus. As it prints the inner wall it is stretched like a liquid rubber band (it's tight because the PLA also shrinks as it cools in the first milliseconds out of the nozzle). This pulls inward and makes vertical holes smaller than desired. With a 0.4mm nozzle the shrinkage is usually 0.4 to 0.5mm (diameter). I'm not surprised it's bigger with a 0.8mm nozzle. The best solution by far is to just fix it in CAD. Note that the outer diameter can shrink also but not as much as the rest of the part supports that outer wall from shrinking. All manufacturing techniques (milling, FFF, SLA, injection molding) require that you fudge things like this in CAD. Some people who do injection molding don't know this as the "factory" takes care of that step for you.

How to test your belt tension:

The wall separation is almost surely underextrusion. Maybe 20% underextrusion. Try printing at half speed and the problem will probably go away. The reason it's only in some places implies you might have some "play" also known as "backlash". Try printing at half speed. Also I don't know anything about your brand of printer but if it has belts then they should be tight to reduce play. Typically 100Hz on a guitar tuner is a decent tightness for belts. Also push gently on the nozzle in X and then Y direction but not hard enough to move the steppers. How much can you move it back and forth? That's your backlash. Hopefully it's no more than 0.1mm.

You can certainly disable the flow sensor if you want @BRLewitt. It's in the menu system somewhere. On the other hand it can be a lifesaver. It matters how you feed the filament into the feeder - make sure you use the correct filament guide.

I don't see this feature in Cura 4.0. The most it can do is add some gcode but you can't update steps/mm in UM3 with just a gcode (you can on UM2). You should know however that bondtech has a new installation procedure that runs a program that updates the steps/mm for you. This is for people not comfortable with linux (UM3 runs linux). I found that the feeders are so powerful on the UM3 that there is no need for the bondtech. Unless you are printing CF. The UM3 gears aren't hardened enough for carbon fill filament but the bondtech gears are.

>BTW, I created git repos in both of those directories Brilliant! I never create or store profiles. Instead I *always* save as a project ("file save"). That saves as a .3mf file. Then later when I print something new I think "let's see - this is similar to that part I printed yesterday" and I load the 3mf file for that part and then delete the old and drag in the new part.

These were made with a 0.15mm nozzle. The quality looks crappy until you realize how small they are. The imperfections seen easily here are not so easy to see without a magnifying glass in real life. That's not my thumb - that's a finger. I like that you can tell that the closest figure is a man holding a young girl - you can easily see where her knee bends. "retraction minimum travel" defaults to 0.8mm but I should have changed that to 0.1mm for this print to get rid of all that stringing between the other man's legs. Really these do not look impressive in this photo but look very impressive in real life.

I've printed with 0.15mm nozzle before with good luck. I used 0.15mm for the line width and that worked fine. I was printing very small things and the part wasn't cooling enough (the nozzle touching the part was keeping it hot so it never got solid and was a big gloopy mess). The solution was to print 7 items (or at least 3!). This way each item had time to cool while it printed the layer on the next part over. Some people recommend a cooler nozzle temperature also but that didn't help me much. I printed 0.1mm layer height such that the Z resolution matched closely the XY resolution. That worked quite well. Please post pictures and include part of your finger for scale. I find coins for scale don't help me much unless I happen to have the coin with me. I always have my finger with me so I find that to be better for scale.

It sounds like you didn't create a solid in blender. Blender lets you create infinitely thin walls - which are not printable (well they are printable as infinitely thin means nothing is there). You need to specify the width of your walls in blender by creating more surfaces. Alternatively you can set infill% to zero and top thickness also to zero since you are just printing a simple cube. Maybe you should show what the part looks like in blender or in preview mode to verify what I'm saying. There are other possibilities.

You are lucky you have the UM3 - you can simply turn off active leveling. It only levels tilt and height anyway (it's not multipoint leveling that corrects for nonflat glass). So I recommend you do manual leveling. You can tweak it slightly over the next few prints but at some point it will be perfect for your needs and you can just leave it there forever. But note that I like it when it is "too close to the bed" as then the parts don't come loose during a print. And you can compensate for the little "elephants foot" by setting "initial horizontal expansion" to a negative value - around -0.3mm.

Please do a "file" "save" on this and post the 3mf file. I'm sure @smartavionics will be interested.

2 hours is not enough. Set the printed bed to 80C, put the spool on top, cover with a towel. Leave it like that overnight. PVA gets soft if you go much hotter than 80C. An oven is too dangerous. heated bed is perfect.