gr5

first item listed by google was the right link:

Please show another video of it happening when the head starts at the front center as this sounds different now. There is a "loud grinding" issue during homing the head when the limit switch does not get hit but your issue seems much gentler/quieter than what I'm used to. More like the stepper is too weak to move. One possibility is that the steps/mm is set too high and it's trying to move faster than possible (say 1 meter per second). I'd try a "factory reset" which resets all the acceleration, max speed, and steps/mm values back to factory defaults.

@ultiarjan said he had the same problem and could see that the right core had retracted the filament quite a bit. The workaround was that when it starts printing with the right extruder, left the lever on the extruder and slide the filament in all the way and then let go. It seems to me you could even do that earlier on while it's printing with the left extruder.

In cura go to the machine settings and make sure (0,0) is at the center (delta printers usually have that in the center) versus the corner (non delta printers usually have that in the corner). There is a checkbox.

Very nice idea. This could be done in cad instead though, right? Have corners with notches or "dimples" as you call them. Note that I deal with this by turning off accel and jerk settings, setting all printing speeds to be the same, and printing slower. The basic problem is that it slows down too long on the corners and overextrudes which causes that bulge. But having it compensated for in the cad model or with this "corner dimpling" would be nice too. Keep in mind that not everyone is into 90 degree corners. Some objects have shaper or less sharp corners. Think of a throwing star. Or a pentagon. This makes locating corners quite tircky I would think in a plugin, Better to do this in cad?

Adjusting vertical holes (not horizontal) in Fusion is probably your best bet. You *can* do some changes in your profile to increase dimensional accuracy but you will still need to adjust the model but by different amounts. So I recommend you stick with the profile you have been using and adjust holes sizes as needed. Typically I adjust all (vertical) hole sizes up by about 0.4mm. Even very large holes.

Send it back! You should not gotten the block v3. That's for UM2 only. Not Um3. Not UMO. The nozzles however you can use. You should not have taken your head apart at all. You just remove the existing nozzle and screw in the new nozzles directly into the aluminum block. You can use any type of brass e3dv6 style nozzles meant for UMO or UM2.

Tomorrow you will find that you can fix this faster than you can locate and have the first sip of beer and you will wonder what all the sorrows were for, lol!

Here is a better guide with photos! And a video! But they don't suggest the shim. Do the shim step also! (step 4 above). https://ultimakernasupport.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/115004169003-Reseating-the-Printhead-Cable-Ultimaker-3-Series-

I think it's a coincidence as this behavior has not been reported with the update. So the cable comes loose quite easily. It takes all of 1 minute to fix it. 1) Remove the 2 long screws at the rear of the print head. You access them at the top. Removing those completely will not do much at all - things will still stay together. 2) Then remove the rear top cover - it covers the rear half of the print head and holds the cable in place. 3) Seat the cable better. Push down on both ends of the connector with some kind of tool or small finger. 4) Put some blue tape or scotch tape or other shim around the cable for better cable relief so the cable won't slide upwards and pull the connector out again a few months from now. 5) Put it back together

Check the friction front to back (Y axis) versus left to right (x axis). This could be excesss friction. This behavior could be high friction. But it could also be that one of the 4 wires to the stepper is broken. Or the stepper driver could be broken (diagnose by swapping X and Y stepper cables). The stepper itself is probably the least likely part to break.

Did you create this model? Is it from sketchup? Sketchup specifies which sides of every surface is the "outside" or "inside" by the color. White goes outside. Gray goes inside. Most people using sketchup ignore this but it confuses cura and ends up filling interrior spaces like this. More info here: https://i.materialise.com/blog/3d-printing-with-sketchup/ You show the model in 2 views (layer and solid), please check the model in the 3rd way: xray view. If you see any red in xray view then that's the problem right there - it means you have extra walls or missing walls (the part is not manifold/solid).

@ultradryan - I'm nervous that if you can't figure out the micro sd card then you won't figure out how to download and install and run software that creates a boot partition and installs a boot image (it's nothing like drag and drop files as it is *not* a file system. It's not fat32. It's not a file system at all. Also I'm nervous you might have trouble removing the necessary screws and nuts and getting access to the micro sd card slot. Maybe you should talk to your reseller and have them fix this.

1 degree for all those small circles is much more than necessary. Most cad programs default to about 10 degrees (36 line segments in a circle). But that might not be enough for your largest circles.

You aren't getting good layer adhesion. The lower layer is not melting enough when the new layer is going down on top. The lower layer needs to melt a little so you get good adhesion. You can't go much hotter on the nozzle so you have two options left: 1) Raise the air temperature by enclosing the printer. 2) Lower the fan speed a lot. Try to go so low that the fan will still start back up if you stop it with your fingers but as low as possible. Typically 1/3 power. Ideally you want to do both of those above two things. 35C is a good air temperature.

You need to put out fewer triangles. If you have this in cad, when you export to STL you should be able to lower the resolution by a factor of 10X and still have plenty of accuracy well beyone what most printers can do. Or you can reduce the polygons using meshlab as rowiac suggests. Here is a guide: http://www.shapeways.com/tutorials/polygon_reduction_with_meshlab I find that 100K polygons is usually enough for most models. Certainly a million polygons should be more than enough for this model. This model looks like much of it might be too thin to print.

To reduce the ripples, the simplest solution is to set all the printing speeds the same and to slow it down to say 25mm/sec.

They look about the same to me. I think the difference is the angle of the light. This is a shiny black filament which has the greatest contrast between reflected light (white) and background color (black). If you printed this in a matte filament (these are very rare) or if you printed it in white, it would look a lot better. Because it is shiny black, tiny changes in the *angle* of the surface - ripples - stand out and are easily seen (but not easily felt or measured). If this is a work of art I would recommend spray painting it with a gray primer and it will look 10X better. Then you could paint it with a flat black paint if you really want black.

Who told you it violates your warranty? Who is your reseller? Most resellers will only not-warranty something if you broke it while messing with the printer. Merely removing a cover should not violate any warranties on the UM3 unless you then accidentally smashed the PCB with a hammer. You could threaten to return it and have them roll it back or suggest that you could do it and save them a lot of trouble. Maybe that will work.

Photos please. Look at the part in layer view to make sure it's even *trying* to print solid walls versus skipping the walls on some layers. What you describe may be underextrusion so first try slowing it to half speed. But give more details please.

Wow - quite the contrast. A few things: 1) What kind of printer is this? 2) Do you have symmetrical fans on both sides or only one side. If two fans - are both spinning? Most likely the "back" is bad where it does layer changes. I would set all the printing speeds to be the same value - I think you are printing the infill too fast and it's underextruding and takes a while to recover on the outer shell and by the time it gets to the "front" of the print it gets back up to pressure.

That happens sometimes. If it doesn't finish within 10 minutes just power cycle it. This has happened to me before and it did not get bricked.

It is true that the flow value in cura does not "get passed to " the sigma. But it doesn't need to as it affects the extruder values directly in the gcode. For example if at normal/nominal/100% extrusion the extruder on the 50th move might move from extrusion of 3.5mm to 3.6mm instead (at 115% lfow) everything is 115% larger so it would move from 4.025 to 4.14 (15% more). So it works just as one would want. You can then increase the flow even more by messing with the flow parameter in the printer.

You have to send authorization on every POST. Right? That's how authorization usually works. So you need to send the same authorization header line that you sent to /auth/check/. Something like this: Authorization: Digest username="2af8417b8501e0422e191d5fbe64209e", realm="Jedi-API", nonce="76684432bdb9a1a386a877e41468a681", uri="/api/v1/system/name", response="50da68df53c0eeb9906212560b0077aa", qop="auth", nc=00000003, cnonce="b2316951bb03e010""MyUltimaker3" I've never done this. I'm not an expert on the UM API. I've done other REST interfaces though with Authorization headers. Did you go to your printer's documentation? http://1.1.1.1/docs/api/ But replace 1.1.1.1 with your printer's ip

@tonycstech - you can certainly see retractions in layer view. As you can see here - make sure you check the box "show travels". Light blue are retraction moves. Dark blue are non-retracting moves. Both types are non-extruding moves. If you look carefully there are about 30 non-retracting moves below and 2 retracting moves.