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experiment with these settings: filter out tiny gaps print thin walls fill gaps between walls Also play with line width. You can print down to 0.3mm with a 0.4mm nozzle or you can get a smaller nozzle (e.g. I sell 0.1mm nozzles). Also I find diagonal infill can help but you might not like it: extra skin wall count 0 wall thickness=line width wall line count 1 More discussion here: https://github.com/ultimaker/cura/issues/2665

Downgrading can be done. See "unbricking" 2 of my posts above.

WIFI works for most people but other's have complained. I guess try power cycling and also wifi setup. Do you have firmware 5.2.X? Many people say to "reset cura connect" but I don't know what that means or how to do that but it fixes many problems supposedly. I ask about firmware version because you may right now have the "stepping stone" version which is meant to do nothing but update you to 5.2.X.

There are many possible reasons. First look at your part in Cura layer view. Does it stop "early" there also? If so then post some photos of the part in normal view and also layer view and also xray view. If the part looks fine in layer view then you are having hardware issues. Maybe your power supply is glitching part way through the print or maybe you put the gcode file on a USB stick or SD card but pulled it out before the file was finished being written onto the card so you could compare the gcode file on the USB/SD to the original and see if it was full written.

@JayCrossler - oops my previous post (2 posts up) had mistakes. I edited it. Please re-read.

@N9ssham - yes it's possible to go back to older versions. There are two methods - the "unbricking" method and the normal method. edit: The normal method doesn't work when going from 5.2 to older versions. So you have to use the "unbricking" method which involves removing covers and such and should not be done if you don't know anything about how to prevent static electricty from causing serious damage or if you are just good at breaking things. Procedure is here:

Sorry @JayCrossler - go to the folder above. Go here: http://software.ultimaker.com/jedi/releases/ edit: oops - above is wrong. Try right clicking on the "recovery.img" link and doing "save link as...". OR If your machine isn't technically bricked but you are just trying to downgrade then use the above link, put both versions (the xz file and the sig file) on a USB stick and insert into the printer and then go to the upgrade menu and it will have a new option to install from USB stick (as it will have seen the version there).

Yay!!!

A reseller just told me that when they get this infinite loop issue the only recourse they know of is to use the unbricking procedure I linked to above.

I think you probably have popups disabled. If you have chrome look in the upper right corner and disable any plugins that might be blocking popups. Many browsers have the feature built in. Disable blocking of popups on ultimaker.com.

@ctbeke - is there a way through ssh to turn off this flag? Would that let him then upgrade to 5.2? Oh wait - if he's not in developer mode he can't use ssh and he can't get to developer mode because he's stuck on an infinite popup. I think he's going to have to use the unbricking procedure above.

You can always go back to an older version using this messy method:

Maybe try cura connect? FYI - version 4.3.96 is a "stepping stone" version intended to never be used to print but intended to let you upgrade to version 5.2. So if you manage to unbrick it you still need to do one more upgrade.

It *is* possible to downgrade a UM3, @kevin-osborn, but it's difficult because the whole process changed in 5.2. So if you are a version older than 5.2 it's easy to downgrade and if you are at version 6.0 (in the future some day) it should be easy to downgrade to 5.2 but no lower. Anyway to downgrade across this boundary is more involved. You need to remove the bottom cover and you need a micro-sd card and special software on your pc/mac/linux machine to create a boot partition on the micro-sd. Versions you can downgrade to are listed here: http://software.ultimaker.com/jedi/releases/ Process is here:

What version of cura @Fortunato ?

Possibly you have to reboot your printer after inserting the SD card?

@starbuck - you should never get a head flood. Here is some complex and important advice to keep your parts from ever coming loose again:

This is called a "head flood". It's somewhat common on UM3 and S5. No one knows how common. It's never happened to me and I've been using the UM3 for years and S5 since it first came out. UM considers cores to be "consumables" like filament (costs about the same as 3 spools of UM filament). You could consider a 3dsolex core which should last longer but you broke these at the heat break which is not any stronger on the 3dsolex cores. The cause of a head flood - there are 2 possible causes: 1) Your part comes loose from the bed during a print at a moment when the part is wider than it is tall. The head then carries the part around like a hockey puck. People tell me this is the most common cause by far. The solution is to NEVER have parts come loose from the glass. I sometimes have chunks of glass embedded in my print, but my prints never come loose. I have a video of how to achieve this if you are interested. 2) The door fell open and it started extruding into the door. You may have weak magnets or they might not be touching the vertical screw or maybe your door is not angled properly (you can bend the metal portion of the door such that it closes better). You can pry the magnets out 0.5mm and that might help. It's hard to tell the difference between #1 and #2 because in both cases the door is open when you come back to the printer.

I don't know how to affect the bottom layer but here are a few other things... 1) After autolevel is complete but before it prints much of your print, you could turn the 3 leveling screws clockwise from below to move the glass down and away from the nozzle. I do that sometimes. Then when the print is done turn it back. Each full rotation is .5mm. Usually I do about 1/6 rotation. Turn them all the same amount. 2) If you make the bottom layer thicker (default is I think 0.27mm) then even if it's overextruding a bit at least there is more space to deal with it. Forcing the extruder to underextrude by 10% is no big deal. So if the glass is too close by 10% then it will be absolutely fine. Even 50% is usually fine. So making the bottom layer thicker lowers that percentage. 3) This shouldn't be an issue. Are you printing PLA? It's okay to overextrude the bottom layer. In fact I love it when the bottom layer is extra thin. That means the part will stick better. If you mess with this with a z-offset your part may come loose which can cause a head flood if the part is wider than tall at the moment it comes loose and it gets carried around like a hockey puck. Quite the disaster. Seriously. I don't think this leveling issue and this "extruder cloggs" issue is related.

cura connect is problematic for me. It seems to work better if you have an ethernet cable but either way it disconnects often (like every few hours). I often go into "manage printers", "connect via network", "refresh" and then I usually have to do nothing else. I just exit out of those and things start working again. Although most people tell me that restarting cura connect works wonders. I'm not sure how to do that.

@SandervG - please see above post.

I don't think it's the gcodes. I think it's a wire that opens up when the head moves to the middle of the print. But first check for all gcodes that start with "M1". There is probably only 10 or 20 in your entire gcode file. And look them all up here: http://reprap.org/wiki/G_code

STL files don't store the units. Even if you designed it in mm in 123D, you may be exporting it in inches or meters or feet. For example if it's in meters and because cura expects mm it will be 1000X too small. So when you export from 123D I think there should be somewhere an option to select the units. Select mm.

So Sander's profile will help a lot but at some point you have to adjust the dimensions in CAD if you want accuracy to 0.1mm or better. If you change filament, change nozzle temperature, change room temperature, all these tolerances will change slightly. The basic problem is that PLA sticks to itself even when liquid - like a liquid rubber band - like snot. AS it's printing the inner vertical holes it is pulled inward because it is also cooling quite a bit in the first millisecond and is already shrinking. So it's like stretching a rubber band around the inside of a circle and it is pulling more inward than you want it to go. You will notice that when printing square holes the corners also are moved inward. You will notice that when printing a cube the *outer* corners also might move inwards (although there is an opposite effect caused because the printer is slowing down and it over extrudes on the corners somewhat but Sander's profile above minimizes this). I know it sounds like a pain to modify the parts in CAD but the same sort of thing is done with injection molding (although more likely by an engineer at the injection molding factory).

Note that tinker marlin allows you to control the power budget. Tell the printer the budget is 175W and the bed is 150W and tell it what the wattage of your two nozzle heaters are and the printer will make sure you don't go over budget. However there is a bug in power budget code and you need the absolute latest tinkerMarlin (well at least version 19.03).