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I think "burned" may be a bad translation? This has nothing to do with heat. This would be easy for me to fix. I would scrape off the covering of the trace to the right of where it broke. Then solder a wire from there to the connector and optionally cover the repair with kapton tape so there is no short circuit with anything else nearby. The other pads need to be resoldered to the board of course. The cause of this problem is mechanical. the solder wasn't strong enough and when the first three pads came loose and the final pad was still sticking it doesn't take too much force to lift that copper trace off the board. If you aren't familiar with how to repair this then you should be able to find a friend who is good with soldering who can fix it for you quickly.

This is an ultimaker and cura forum. We dont' know much about monoprice mini v2. But if it's anything like an ultimaker you might want to make sure the SD card isn't too large or too small. Try to buy one with the same size. Also I don't recommend formatting them. did you format them on a mac? If so try formatting all over again on a PC. They probably have to be in FAT32 format. What format did you format them in? I never formatted the SD cards I have bought in the past and they worked fine in my Ultimaker printers.

First cut the filament a few cm above the feeder. Did you squeeze the lever on the feeder? Lift that lever up by squeezing with some fingers on the top of the finger and some on that lever. Also consider printing wedgebot asap: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/wedgebot-for-ultimaker2

@cello - which printer? Um2 or Um3? For um3 it's important to include the signature file as well. After copying both files (firmware and signature) onto usb flash drive, insert into um3 and in menu system choose to upgrade. It will see the files on the usb flash drive.

I meant to add supports in the cad software that you used to create this model. I usually create my own supports as I'm a little (a lot) smarter than cura is. Well without seeing the part in layer view it's hard to tell what happened. At the same time I save the gcode file I also do "file" "save project..." so I can go back and see all my settings and the positioning of the part. If you click on the part and have the "move" icon on the top left selected you can set the Z value to negative values which will move the head under the bead. Or if you simply rotate the head 180 degrees so it's upside down this can happen as well. But you will SEE the problem in layer view. Always look at your part carefully in layer view before printing.

Try aliexpress and ebay and amazon. These supplies are expensive but I think it's worth it to get the one from meanwell. There are two that work: GST220A24-R7B GS220A24-R7B I find the one without the "T" to be more reliable - it puts out a little more power and is less likely to reboot for no apparent reason (but the reason is the printer went over the power limit for a second or two). On the other hand, the power supply you have now, may be as good as new if you just let it reboot. I have had these power supplies get into strange software states and if you power it completely off (unplug the cord and turn on the printer to drain it - otherwise it might take days to drain it) and then turn it back on again it can be as good as new.

By the way if you only touch a tiny portion of the head to the bed it won't stick well and will eventually fall over. So you might want to add 3 or 4 supports around the head in cad. Just 4 towers maybe sticking into those holes in the head? This is not an easy print to choose an orientation.

I think we need one more screen shot that shows layer view. Is it possible your bed height is way way off? By maybe 4mm?

I'm not a UM employee but I really don't believe that honeycomb is stronger than all the other infills. Maybe you mean the strongest for it's weight? Certainly not the strongest for it's speed of printing. It's only strong in certain dimensions. Honeycomb is a bit weak on 2 of the axes I believe. I think the cube pattern that Cura has might be stronger than honeycomb for it's weight and also for it's speed. Really the best infill is a gradual infill with higher density near all walls (side/top/bottom) and less infill in the center. Cura supports this. Please try to draw a little bit of the honeycomb pattern on paper. You will see that you can't go very far at all in a straight line. The printer has to jig and jag constantly. Making it print very slow. There is a "triangle honeycomb" pattern that cura supports that is very similar to honcomb but prints much faster (all straight lines).

I think you should ask TAZ people. Or maybe try printing at half the speed you ahve been. You are probably just going too fast for the extruder (layers too thick or too high speed).

I don't know much about 3mf files but in gcode files it depends if you use a typical machine where 0,0 is the lower left (front left) corner of the build plate or if you choose a delta type machine where 0,0 is in the center of the build plate. Also realize that cura offsets the vertices by the width of the nozzle (or the line width actually). so that the outer edge of the filament lines up with the outer edges of the model. If you install repetier host you can load a gcode file into it and see what it looks like in 3d and then you can highlight the gcode values and you can see in the left window in color where those gcode values occur. This really helps a lot with finding the exact gcode for a given vertice.

Propellors are the most difficult thing I ever printed with my UM2. The UM3 with it's PVA support was so helpful. For the UM2 I would design outer walls on the outer edge of the blades only and then after it's printed I cut the outer supports off with a dremel. A lot of work.

Other people have done this for you: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/um2-printhead-top-bottom-pieces https://www.youmagine.com/designs/um2-complete-printhead https://www.youmagine.com/designs/um2-print-head-top-for-2-85-1-75-filaments I've only printed the last one. But to answer your question I'd download DSM (design spark mechanical). It's free. Then open the step file in DSM then do "save as..." and choose file type STL. There's a simple trick to be able to edit STEP files in DSM, let me know if you need the trick.

If that's supposed to be a 0.1mm bottom layer thickness then you should rotate the 3 leveling screws CCW as seen from below to move the bed up a little. About 1/3 turn. And if auto leveling is on I'd turn it off but that's my workflow. Other people are fine with auto leveling.

Bottom layer will be affected by the flow but also by the leveling height. I prefer manual leveling so I can get consistent results. Those brims in the photo look about 10% underextruded. Also the print speed and temperature affects things because that affects the pressure in the nozzle and flexible filaments compress a lot more so it's harder to get the higher pressures and higher flow rates as you go faster. Typically cura slices the bottom layer around 0.3mm which may be double or triple your other layers so it's good to print correspondingly slower to get the same volume through the same tiny nozzle in the same amount of time and not expect the printer to be able to print much higher volumes on the bottom layer.

To save time, if I ask 2 questions, it would be good if you answered both. Sorry to bitch a bit.

What cad software (I asked earlier also)? First thing to do is look at the model in xray view. If you see any red then that's the problem. Did you use sketchup? If so read this - it might be as easy as right-clicking all gray surfaces and swapping faces. Very easy to do: https://i.materialise.com/blog/3d-printing-with-sketchup/

Are these pictures of the top of the parts? Or the bottom of the parts? If mixed, which are which?

@YvesRossignol - you have some pretty severe underextrusion. You are extruding at about 50% of requested. There are many possible causes. A) The most common is printing too cold and too much volume. Are you printing at the same layer heights (thicker layer heights means you are printing more volume), same speeds, same line widths as you used to when things were fine? I'm guessing yes but still. B) The second most common is something is wrong with the feeder. I'd test it's strength. Insert pla only half way into the bowden and fight the feeder by pulling hard - the feeder should be able to hold 4-7kg before slipping. This is a critical test and will save you many days of debugging. C) The third most common problem is problems with the core. Try putting your second AA core in the left slot to see if you get any better results. Most specifically the nozzle can get clogs or gunk in it or the inner walls of the nozzle can get build up especially after many spools of printing. The easiest thing to do is just buy another core but if you have plenty of time and not much money you can take it apart and burn out the tip. Doing so will void the warranty of the core so only as a last result:

This model is in bad shape. Did you create it yourself? If so you should be able to repair it. What software did you use? If not, try using this (you have to create an account but it's free and worth it): https://service.netfabb.com/login.php

Oh and if you are making these organs for teaching purposes then you can now quickly make multiple organs from one mold.

I have printed ninjaflex on UM3. I had to print slow. But you can go down to super soft organ like flexibilities with shore 30 silicone if you print a casting of the organ instead of the organ itself. You print the mold. The short explanation is in cad you take the organ and you take a cuboid a little bigger and then do a "boolean subtract" operation which gives you a cube with a hollow organ inside. Then you hollow out some fill holes and air holes at the top, split the mold into two halves and print it. Then fill it with that product I listed above and give it several hours to become solid. Open the mold and voila.

Another issue might be that you aren't hitting the X or Y limit switches. It's obvious because the printer makes a really horrible sound (the printer won't get hurt but it sounds like it).

If you could make a video starting where you have placed the head in position - just a 10 second video - that might tell us something.

Well this is an Ultimaker forum so you might get biased answers. If you are on a tight budget then the prusa i3 is pretty good but if you want something more reliable and a little more plug and play (there are no plug and play 3d printers no matter how much you pay) then I love the ultimaker 2go. I have 3 of them. I have all 6 models of UM printers and I love the um2go's the most.