gr5

I'd get another SD card. Are you sure you don't have lock/unlock backwards regarding the little switch on the SD card?

That was nice of you kman bug @jjdualan did the netfabb method instead (he posted over on thingiverse). Anyway - that was so nice of you that I uploaded your stl to thingiverse as a remix so people in the future can try your version.

To make it water tight it really is best to do it in one single walled spiral. However you should also over extrude to make the walls thicker. This is done automatically. So for example if you have a 0.4mm nozzle (what kind of printer do yo have? Please add to your account settings) and you tell cura the shell size is 0.8mm then it will doubly extrude. Even better, use a 0.8mm nozzle or larger. This is difficult to get .8mm traces out of a .4mm nozzle, but it works. Just print a bit slower.

Yes but you also need to disable a feature in the regular cura settings (not in the cura profile). It's something like "don't force Z value to be zero".

I think you can tell cura all temperatures (bed and nozzle) are 0C and it will not output any temperatures into the gcode. That way you can control the temp manually.

>So to summarize. Flexible filaments do not absorb water. I thought it was strange. I had printed ninja flex many times before with no boiling but the most recent time it seemed to be boiling. This filament is several years old now. I'll try printing faster next time.

Oh - and i've never bought faberdashery (I'm in USA) so I didn't realize it wasn't on spools. It's more convenient on spools. Colorfabb is great filament. Get their pla/pha. Lots of great filmants out there. Listen to neotko - he prints more than I do and cares more about surface quality than I do.

There are two standard sizes of filament: 1.75 and "3mm". UM uses 3mm but it's not really 3mm. In fact you have to make sure the filament is smaller than 3mm because if it's truly 3mm it will get stuck in the bowden. So make sure it is 2.85mm or 2.9mm filament before buying it. This is rarely a problem - there used to be some chinese cheap filaments that were 3mm but I think all the companies that are more than a year old know now to make it a bit smaller (typically 2.85mm). So they may say "3mm" but if you look closely at the specs it will be 2.85mm+/-.05 or something similar.

Every possible speed? Did you try 20mm/sec? You can tweak this in the TUNE menu - change the feedrate % to 50% or 25% while it's printing a few layers to see if that helps. You can also increase the flow to 150% or 200%. That looks like about half the normal extrusion. So .4mm shell is quite thin. I know you want it light weight but I think you should consider going for .6mm - ideally with a .6mm nozzle but this will work with a .4mm nozzle if you print it slow enough. Set shell and line width to .6. I'm still having trouble believing this is a sold model and that it isn't printed in two passes like a loop. If you enable infill does it print a criss cross infill all throughout the inside of the wing? Are you forced to set infill to 0% to get this to work?

If the thickness is not part of the model why does it seem I see some kind of ribbing inside? Is that a different print? That ribbing is certainly not a standard infill pattern, lol.

I've done it on UMO and UM2. The most important thing for me was to oil the filament. One drop every meter or so. Also I print hot and slow - 10mm/sec and between 220C and 240C. If the filament absorbs water you will hear it sizzling and it will come out foamy and it will work but you probably won't like it. So keep the filament very dry. You might be able to dry the filamnent by unspooling a few meters and heating it on the heated bed at the glass temp for 6 hours with a towel over it. Haven't tried that yet. But brand new ninjaflex will be fine. Here is something I printed in ninjaflex:

It's not your fault - it's a bad model - you might be able to see this if you look at it in xray mode - anything in red is a problem (like extra walls inside the model). Unfortunately you didn't create it so not so easy to fix. First I would try the "mesh fixes" options in cura - the top few ones - check those to see if it fixes it. If not then there are some tools out on the web that will fix it for free. If you manage to fix it please upload your fix as a remix on thingiverse to this model so other people can download the fixed version. netfabb used to have a free web service that repairs meshes. Try that first - I think it's still there. It's the easiest tool I think that usually works. If that doesn't work there is meshlab but you'll need to find instructions first for repairing non-manifold meshes. or just google "3d mesh repair tools"

I'm pretty sure lowering jerk speed will make things worse, not better. This doesn't control jerk or acceleration directly but instead lets the planner pick a minimum speed at each junction. The lower the jerk value, the lower the speed at every point (junction) and then it tries to accel up to 90mm/sec (if that's your goal speed) in between. Very jerky. but if you make the jerk too high it will exceed what your hardware can do and you will skip steps. You will most likely notice this when layers above don't match the position of layers below. You still haven't included a video of this "jerky motion" so I'm still not sure what you are talking about. Keep in mind that the M205 command is temporary and goes away on power off. I think you can preserve this into eeprom with a M500 such that it still has the same setting when you power back up. If you are trying to print faster, usually thicker layers is the best way to do it without hurting quality.

I also sell UM2 and UM3 enclosures in my store but USA customers only. thegr5store.com.

I'm not certain but I don't think the app is supported anymore. You might be stuck with using a browser, or the features inside of cura (you can for example see what the camera sees from any web browser including one on a tablet or phone and I think it's higher resolution than if you do it through cura).

I see 4 issues. which issue do you refer to? The "hole" issue in the top part is likely due to a recent change in Cura 3. There is a ton of discussion in github. The fix for now is to go back to Cura 2.7: https://github.com/ultimaker/cura/issues/2665 If it's one of the other issues maybe circle which issue is bothering you or describe it - maybe: infill overextrusion bordering shell random lines crossing top surface (e.g. 3 of them on lower pic) when print stops it leaves a bump and thread

I'm not familiar with PP so I don't know if the fans should be on - you can go into the TUNE menu while it's printing and override the fan to see if it comes on. If there is later a gcode to change the fan speed then that gcode will override whatever you do in the TUNE menu when it reaches that gcode. Please show a screen shot of what this overhang issue looks like or a photo of the part maybe. Everytime I think I know what someone on the forum is talking about and then they show a photo I am like "oh! nevermind everything I said over the last few days. I thought you meant something else"

What is your nozzle width, shell width, line width, inner line width, outer line width, layer height and print speed? Please answer all of these as any one of these values being off can create what I see in the photo above. By the way this is called "underextrusion". It looks like you are doing very thin one pass shell width. I recommend 2 passes. So if your nozzle is .4mm make the line width .35 to .4mm and the shell width exactly double this (.7mm to .8mm). Hmm. Another thought - is the thickness of the wall part of the model? I was assuming this was a "solid model" but now I think maybe the thickness of the shell is controlled in the model itself. Please check the thickness in a few places along that leading edge curve - if that is not exactly equal to twice your line width it would do just what we see in the photo. If you don't have the ability to examine stl files accurately you could upload it somewhere and post a link to the stl file for this print (please don't post a link to a location that has a dozen stl files - we need to know which file - the more work you make it for us, the less motivated we will be to help).

Well you could slice a few things in cura which is free and you will need it anyway to use your UM3. That will tell you how much filament you need - typically in meters but I think it's possible to get it in weight. Filament is sold by the weight. For example UM sells .75kg spools. Some companies sell 1kg or 2.2kg spools. I recommend you try faberdashery filaments - I've never tried them but hear great things and they are in the UK. Also I recommend UM for the PVA as their formulation doesn't absorb water quite as fast (keep PVA very very dry). I also recommend you start out with prints that take less than 3 hours - start small! You will learn more faster. It took me about 100 prints before I really understood all the main issues and was getting perfect prints every time. This will come much slower if you are doing 20cm multi day prints.

Is this printer have (0,0) near the center (this is common for delta printers) or is (0,0) in the corner? This is configurable in cura in the machine settings. The other thing is did you get the dimensions of the build plate right?

FYI - 3mm nozzles work fine with 1.75mm filament. You might have more trouble doing a cold pull but I don't do cold pulls much anymore anyway.

I haven't looked at this very carefully so I'm not knowledgeable but my impression was that the json file can contain javascript so you could use some javascript math functions such as "int()". For example: Math.floor(x/0.04 + 0.5)*0.04 will convert any value x to the nearest multiple of .04. You can probably put that anywhere you can put any other variable. I could be wrong but I'm pretty sure you can do stuff like this somehow. This will *not* restrict the value but at least it will only suggest values that meet your requirements. Having said that, the whole "it's best to use multiples of a single microstep" argument is probably wrong. It might be true of whole steps, but I doubt it's true of microsteps unless you also use the "tl-smoother" or have really good stepper drivers.

Anders posted his solution to this problem a few minutes ago here: https://github.com/ultimaker/cura/issues/2068

I'm guessing the keenvoo just has a power level and not temperature feedback? if so then if your goal is 160C you setup the keenvoo to a power level such that it gets the bed to a bit colder temp by itself (say 130C) and then you use the UM2 heated bed with it's temp sensor to heat it the rest of the way? And does PEI work with all the materials? And does glue stick also work with all these materials? Which materials have you tried and know for sure work with which method?

What are you using on the print bed? Is it glass with glue? PEI? Also are you using two bed heaters (built in bed heater plus supplemental heater)? And tell us a little about this bed heater - is tinkerMarlin controlling the temp or do you have an external controller that also has temperature feedback?