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If you have a UM2 then lets go with the tinkergnome solution then. This is really not hard. I feel like I'm explaining how to shift from first gear to second in a car. It would help if your profile said what printer you had because if you have a UMO then I just wasted 5 minutes! First go here and choose the version of firmware that matches your machine. Do not choose "UM2plus" as the feeder will rotate the wrong direction. Unless that's what you have (the geared extruder). Choose the firmware that EXACTLY matches your: printer dimesnsions, board (UMO has ramps board, UMO+ has different circuit board), heated bed, temp sensors. Connect printer to computer. In cura 14.X or 15.X go to "Machine" menu "Install Custom firmware...". Tell cura where you donwloaded the tinkermarlin firmware. You can always go back to your standard firmware using cura if something goes wrong. It takes 1 or 2 minutes to install. If the lights don't blink and a loud "thunk" noise in the first 3 seconds of "install firmware" then something is wrong - try a different USB cable or a different computer. After you have tinkerMarlin running go to "MOVE" menu. Spin the knob backwards so you can see the filament leaving the machine. You may have to heat the nozzle - that's in the same MOVE menu. At some point maybe make a mark with pen on the bowden where the filament is. Then rotate the knob and move foreward exactly 100mm on the display. Then measure with caliper how far filament moved. The steps/mm is burried in the "motion control" menu. go to advanced I think, just keep looking around for "motion control" and there is an option for steps/mm. Inside there you can change the steps/mm for any of the steppers. If you don't hit SAVE you will lose the setting the next time you power cycle the ultimaker.

Is this filament brittle? You should be able to bend filament quite a bit before it snaps. If it breaks in the bowden when the break reaches the end of the bowden it can get caught/stuck.

Just start loosening things. I'd start with all the Y axis endcaps. That can cause significant friction. Having the belts too tight can also hurt. Having things crooked at the print head also hurts - in other words if the 2 rods aren't perpendicular. Loosen all the pulley screws. It might be that a belt skipped a tooth. To fix you loosen all 4 long belt pulleys for that axis and square it up and re-tighten.

Like most computer related things there are 10 ways to do something. ONE way to update esteps is to write a gcode file, put it on SD card and PRINT the file. Another way is to connect the printer to a computer through USB cable, run pronterface and enter the same gcodes by hand in pronterface. This is much easier as you can adjust the value 10 times in 2 minutes. Also pronterface tells you the current values of steps/mm for all your axes before you change anything. A third way is to get the tinkerMarlin firmware which is MUCH BETTER than the regular firmware. In tinkerMarlin there is a menu that lets you adjust steps for all your steppers directly. and you can see their current values. The best way to pick the correct value is *not* to measure any diameters of anything. Just tell retract the filament so it is in the bowden but near the feeder. Extrude 100mm. Measure with calipers. Determine error and adjust steps/mm. for example if it moved 110mm then that is 10% too much and you need to reduces steps/mm by 10%.

No you misunderstand. All white PLA by all manufactures ever made even when brand new from the factory - the additive they put in there to make it white seems to mess up many of the good characteristics of pla. For example it doesn't stick to itself as well when in liquid form - it drips more - it strings more - it doesn't stick to the bed as well - it's more blobby. It just doesn't print as well. But if you read the above paragraph you would think it's useless - it's still pretty good stuff. Just not as good as other colors.

I don't understand. How do you know the temp sensor is off by 20C? You can change your default printing temperature. On the printer go to materials settings then choose CUSTOMIZE. Change the temperature, then SAVE then choose PLA to save to the PLA slot.

Could it have been the filament? White PLA is usually weird stuff.

Those are teflon. The newer Ultimaker part "TFM" and the 3dsolex part "TFT" are a newer, much more expensive material that can handle higher heat without deforming so soon.

On the power supply there is a picture of the connector and answers this question for you. On the right side of this photo is 24V. On the left side is ground. Blue and red are 24V. white and black are ground. It's okay to get black and white backwards as they are the same. It's okay to get red and blue backwards as they are the same.

I'm not a fan of rafts. This is an older technology that you shouldn't need anymore. Is the bottom of your part flat? anyway I recommend you print on glass and here's my details of how to get parts to stick like hell to glass. I hope you consider it strongly but if not maybe someone else who used rafts "back in the day" can help you: lifting corners, curling corners, part sticking to glass 1) Make sure the glass is clean if you haven't cleaned it for a few weeks. You want a very thin coat of PVA glue which is found in hairspray, glue stick, wood glue. If you use glue stick or wood glue you need to dilute it with water - about 5 to 10 parts water to 1 part glue. So for example if you use glue stick, apply only to the outer edge of your model outline then add a tablespoon of water and spread with a tissue such that you thin it so much you can't see it anymore. wood glue is better. hairspray doesn't need to be diluted. When it dries it should be invisible. This glue works well for most plastics. 2) Heat the bed. This helps the plastic fill in completely (no air pockets) so you have better contact with the glass. For PLA any temp above 40C is safe. I often print at 60C bed. 3) heat the bed (didn't I already say that?). Keeping the bottom layers above the glass temp of the material makes it so the bottom layers can flex a bit (very very tiny amount) and relieve the tension/stress. For PLA 60C is better than 50C. 70C is even better but then you get other "warping" like issues at the corners where they move inward but if you are desperate it's worth it. For ABS you want 110C (100C is good enough). 4) rounded corners - having square corners puts all the lifting force on a tiny spot. Rounding the corner spreads the force out more. This is optional if you use brim. 5) Brim - this is the most important of all. Turn on the brim feature in cura and do 10 passes of brim. This is awesome. 6) Squish - make sure the bottom layer is squishing onto the glass with no gaps in the brim. The first trace going down should be flat like a pancake, not rounded like string. don't run the leveling procedure if it is off, just turn the 3 screws the same amount while it is printing the skirt or brim. Counter clockwise from below gets the bed closer to the nozzle. Don't panic, take a breath, think about which way to move the glass, think about how the screw works, then twist. This may take 30 seconds but it's worth it to not rush it. You can always restart the print. If you do all this you will then ask me "how the hell do I get my part off the glass?". Well first let it cool completely. Or even put it in the freezer. Then use a sharp putty knife under a corner and it should pop off.

I think the UMO feeder is great as is - that's why there aren't as many modifications to it as for the UM2. My favorite mod is the one that makes it quieter http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:53690 However you can indeed mount the iroberti feeder on a UMO if you want to. It's not as sturdy as the UMO feeder: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:568881

my standard answer although I suspect you need to level a little closer to glass (#6 below): lifting corners, curling corners, part sticking to glass 1) Make sure the glass is clean if you haven't cleaned it for a few weeks. You want a very thin coat of PVA glue which is found in hairspray, glue stick, wood glue. If you use glue stick or wood glue you need to dilute it with water - about 5 to 10 parts water to 1 part glue. So for example if you use glue stick, apply only to the outer edge of your model outline then add a tablespoon of water and spread with a tissue such that you thin it so much you can't see it anymore. wood glue is better. hairspray doesn't need to be diluted. When it dries it should be invisible. This glue works well for most plastics. 2) Heat the bed. This helps the plastic fill in completely (no air pockets) so you have better contact with the glass. For PLA any temp above 40C is safe. I often print at 60C bed. 3) heat the bed (didn't I already say that?). Keeping the bottom layers above the glass temp of the material makes it so the bottom layers can flex a bit (very very tiny amount) and relieve the tension/stress. For PLA 60C is better than 50C. 70C is even better but then you get other "warping" like issues at the corners where they move inward but if you are desperate it's worth it. For ABS you want 110C (100C is good enough). 4) rounded corners - having square corners puts all the lifting force on a tiny spot. Rounding the corner spreads the force out more. This is optional if you use brim. 5) Brim - this is the most important of all. Turn on the brim feature in cura and do 10 passes of brim. This is awesome. 6) Squish - make sure the bottom layer is squishing onto the glass with no gaps in the brim. The first trace going down should be flat like a pancake, not rounded like string. don't run the leveling procedure if it is off, just turn the 3 screws the same amount while it is printing the skirt or brim. Counter clockwise from below gets the bed closer to the nozzle. Don't panic, take a breath, think about which way to move the glass, think about how the screw works, then twist. This may take 30 seconds but it's worth it to not rush it. You can always restart the print. If you do all this you will then ask me "how the hell do I get my part off the glass?". Well first let it cool completely. Or even put it in the freezer. Then use a sharp putty knife under a corner and it should pop off.

pictures please.

Nozzle won't overheat just because it's not printing. It has a thermostat feedback system like a house thermostat but smarter. Could it be the points are too close together? Some people thing higher resolution is better but you can have too much. It's good to have 16 consequtive gcodes points be at least 8mm apart. Otherwise it can slow down. If you have 16 segments in 1mm it will come to a near complete stop. If you have 16 points in .1mm of space it will indeed stop. Generally when you export from cad there are options about how many triangles to create when converting curves. You want to keep that as low as possible but still look like a curve and not show obvious facets. If there are more than about 100K triangles you can reduce them with meshlab: http://www.shapeways.com/tutorials/polygon_reduction_with_meshlab What country are you in zxen? This information isn't critical this time but might be next time so please update your profile to include your country where you do your 3d printing.

maxtemp error and maxtemp bed error are indeed unrelated. One is the nozzle sensor, the other the bed sensor.

This sounds like a bug with either cura or firmware. Could you post the gcode file somewhere? Maybe dropbox. Thanks.

For one-part simple youmagine downloads (or thingiverse) they just go into my generic ultimaker folder. If it's a multipart part (more than 1 stl) then it usually goes in it's own folder. All my own designs go in their own folder as there are ALWAYS multiple versions. I can stare at a part in cad for an hour and declare it perfect only to print it and seconds later I think (ooh - I should add a hole here), lol. My ultimaker folder is indeed a mess but I always sort by date and so the relevant stuff is almost always in the top 5 files.

This newer angle is a better camera angle than the first image. This is underextrusion. Something tricky to fix so you have to start eliminating things. Here is my generic underextrusion response below. Please read them all in case one stands out (e.g. maybe you printed with CF filament once in the past) but most likely your TFT is fine (it looks fine in the photo) so most likely I'd start with #1 below. ==================================================== CAUSES FOR UNDEREXTRUSION AND HOW TO TEST FOR THEM AND REMEDY THEM As far as underextrusion causes - there's just so damn many. none of the issues seem to cause more than 20% of problems so you need to know the top 5 issues to cover 75% of the possibilities and 1/4 people still won't have the right issue. Some of the top issues: 1) Print slower and hotter! Here are top recommended speeds for .2mm layers (twice as fast for .1mm layers) and .4mm nozzle: 20mm/sec at 200C 30mm/sec at 210C 40mm/sec at 225C 50mm/sec at 240C The printer can do double these speeds but with huge difficulty and usually with a loss in part quality due to underextrusion. Different colors print best at quite different temperatures and due to imperfect temp sensors, some printers print 10C cool so use these values as an initial starting guideline and if you are still underextruding try raising the temp. But don't go over 240C with PLA. 2) Shell width confusion. Shell width must be a multiple of nozzle size. For example if nozzle size is .4mm and shell width is 1mm cura will make the printer do 2 passes with .5mm line width which is possible but requires you to slow down much more to make a .5mm line out of a .4mm nozzle. If you really want this then set nozzle size to .5mm so it's clear what you are asking Cura to do for you. 3) Isolator - this is most common if you've printed extra hot (>240C) for a few hours or regular temps (220C) for 500 hours. It gets soft and compresses the filament under pressure. It's the white part touching the heater block. It's very hard to test when not under full pressure (spring and bowden) so sometimes it's best to just replace it. Also if you notice parts of it are very soft (the blacker end where it touches higher heat) then it's too old and needs replacing. 4) Curved filament at end of spool - if you are past half way on spool, try a fresh spool as a test. 5) curved angle feeding into feeder - put the filament on the floor -makes a MASSIVE difference. 6) Head too tight? Bizarrely MANY people loosen the 4 screws on the head by just a bit maybe 1/2 mm and suddenly they can print just fine! Has to do with pressure on the white teflon isolator. 6b) Bowden pushing too hard - for the same reason you don't want the bowden pushing too hard on the isolator. 6c) Spring pushing too hard. Although you want a gap you want as small as possible a gap between teflon isolator and steel isolator nut such that the spring is compressed as little as possible. 7) clogged nozzle - the number one problem of course - even if it seems clear. There can be build up on the inside of the nozzle that only burning with a flame can turn to ash and remove. Sometimes a grain of sand gets in there but that's more obvious (it just won't print). Atomic method (cold pull) helps but occasionally you need to remove the entire heater block/nozzle assembly and use flame. Or soak it in acetone overnight (after removing 90% of the material with cold pull). 8) Temp Sensor bad - even the good ones vary by +/- 5C and bad ones can be any amount off - they usually read high and a working sensor can (rarely) fail high slowly over time. Meaning the sensor thinks you are at 220C but actually you are at 170C. At 170C the plastic is so viscous it can barely get out of the nozzle. You can verify your temp sensor using this simple video at youtube - on you tube search for this: mrZbX-SfftU 9) feeder spring issues - too tight, too loose 10) Other feeder issues, one of the nuts holding machine together often interferes with the feeder motor tilting it enough so that it still works but not very well. Other things that tilt the feeder motor, sleeve misaligned so it doesn't get a good grip. Gunk clogging the mechanism in there. 11) Filament diameter too big - 3mm is too much. 3mm filament is usually 2.85mm nominal or sometimes 2.9mm +/- .05. But some manufacturers (especially in china) make true 3.0mm filament with a tolerance of .1mm which is useless in an Ultimaker. It will print for a few meters and then clog so tight in the bowden you will have to remove the bowden from both ends to get the filament out. Throw that filament in the trash! It will save you weeks of pain 11b) Something wedged in with the filament. I was setting up 5 printers at once and ran filament change on all of them. One was slowly moving the filament through the tube and was almost to the head when I pushed the button and it sped up and ground the filament badly. I didn't think it was a problem and went ahead and printed something but there was a ground up spot followed by a flap of filament that got jammed in the bowden tube. Having the "plus" upgrade or using the IRobertI feeder helps you feel this with your hand by sliding the filament through the bowden a bit to see if it is stuck. 12) Hot weather. If air is above 30C or even possibly 25C, the air temperature combined with the extruder temperature can soften the filament inside the feeder such that it is getting squeezed flat as it passes through the feeder - this is obvious as you can see the problem in the bowden. The fix is to add a desk fan blowing on the back of the printer. Not an issue on the UM2 "plus" series. 13) Crimped bowden. At least one person had an issue where the bowden was crimped a bit too much at the feeder and although the printer worked fine when new it eventually got worse and had underextrusion on random layers. it's easy to pull the bowden out of the feeder end and examine it. 14) Small nozzle. Rumor has it some of the .4mm nozzles are closer to .35mm. Not sure if this is actually true. I'm a bit skeptical but try a .6mm nozzle maybe. 15) CF filament. The knurled sleeve in the extruder can get ground down smooth - particularly from carbon fill. 4 spools of CF will destroy not just nozzles but the knurled sleeve also. Look at it visually where the filament touches the "pyramids". Make sure the pyramids are sharp.

Oh wow. That's not an endstop issue but just as loud. First know that this machine is tough and you can do this 100 times without breaking anything (at least worse than it is now). Well I'm not sure. Often I'll see the video and go "yep. Seen that 100 times". But not this time. Theory 1: when you put the metal side covers back over the steppers you pinched the X motor cabling (the stepper on the right rear corner). Look to see if any cables are under the cover before you remove it and are being pinched. You may have to repair a wire. I mean it's certainly an X axis problem. Although the Y axis is pretty noisy also. Theory 2: your axis are not perpendicular and there is huge friction. Try pushing the head around with power off. You should be able to push it around without moving the printer also (or just barely enough force to also move the printer across the table if you don't hold it). If friction is high then concentrate on that first. No more than one drop of light oil (any mineral oil like 3-in-one or sewing machine oil - but don't use WD40 - WD40 is a cleaner and not a lubricant). Read the installation instructions again about perpendicular axes. Theory 3: your set screws are loose such that they sometimes grip and someties slip. This seems hard to believe as the axis actually goes backwards sometimes. If you hadn't just upgraded I would also be suspicious about your stepper drivers overheating but that usually happens after the machine has been printing for 10 minutes. Not right at the start.

90% of "3mm filament" is actually 2.85 to 2.9mm. If you measure it as 3.00mm or larger with calipers - it will very likely get stuck in the bowden at some point. You will have to remove the bowden at both ends and cut the filament at both ends, then heat the whole thing in hot water until it slides out.

You're sure the nozzle is jammed? Or do you not know where the "jam" is? Could it be the extruder has ground up the filament - did you check in there? It could be you have dust in the nozzle and it can't fit through the hole. A "cold pull" will fix this - it helps if you have a nozzle cleaner tool - I give out a free one to all new customers in my store. Read about cold pulls and try that. Cold pull will tell you other information if you photograph it and post it here - neotko is an expert at looking at them. It could be the bowden isn't inserted all the way. Warm filament can eventually expand and cool and keep the filament from moving up or down or both. Is it loose? Try sliding it up and down. It could be a feeder issue if you changed anything there. Remove the filament and shine a light in there and look to see if the gears are aligned or clogged or something else. When it jams do you open the feeder and try feeding by hand and nothing comes out? If so I would remove the nozzle and do "cold pulls" over a hot gas stove to clean it out. I hold the nozzle in pliers, put in gas flame with a drop of water on it. After the water boils I count another X seconds then remove from heat, insert filament into the nozzle, then let it cool for Y seconds and then pull hard on the filament which should come out in the shape of the inside of the nozzle. Play with X (about 10 seconds) and Y (over a minute) until you get perfect nozzle shaped clean looking pulls. Cold pulls while connected to the printer are easier. Hot temp is 150C to 200C. Cold temp is about 95C. Easiest with bowden removed.

Note that on the ulticontroller, it shows a feed rate of 100% such that if you change that to 50% it will print at half the speed set in cura. For example if you set the print speed in cura to 40mm/sec and after the print started you changed the feed rate to 200% it would print at 80mm/sec. Varying the temp from 205 to 210 isn't going to show much. I've printed PLA at 180C and at 240C on the same UMO. PLA is forgiving in that it has a wider range of printing temps than most. The accuracy of the thermocouple can be off by 20C between machines. Anyway when experimenting with temps, change it *while* you are printing. That way you get results faster. Be very careful on the low end as if the temp drops too far the printer will keep going but the extruder will stop turning. I think the cutoff is 170C and if you set to 180C it can overshoot so set to 185C first, then when it dips below 185C and pauses you can go down to 180C. Also be careful on the hot end. 240C can wear out your teflon faster (say 200 hours of printing versus 1000 hours printing? really not sure as it seems to last much longer on UMO than UM2). Your first though on the fan is spot on. Stringing is critical on filament color and manufacturer (color more than manufacturer for some crazy reason) and so you might get different results. Most of your strings are really tiny and should be easy to remove I would hope. Maybe using a candle? Anyway now to the most important part - I suspect your bowden tube is a bit loose. Not critical but... Reduce pressure on the bowden by turning the extruder gear backwards a few cm. Then gently (1/4 kg force should be enough) push the bowden up and down at the head and at the feeder. It should not slide up and down. If it does remove the clip, push *down* on the white "bowden holder", pull up the bowden a bit then push the bowden further down in. Then lift hard on the "bowden holder" and pull up and down on the bowden a bit to make sure that worked. It helps to loosen the 4 thumb screws a few turns, do this procedure and then tighten the 4 thumb screws such that the bowden isn't forcing downwards too hard but is still not moving. Alternatively, for every mm the bowden moves up and down, add that to the default retraction of 4.5mm. So if it moves up and down 1mm then set retraction to 5.5mm. Also in the advanced cura settings you may notice that retraction is disabled if the distance to "hop" is too small. Maybe set that to zero for this print. Also retraction is disabled if it just did a retraction (minimum extrusion before next retraction). You might set that to zero also although for super heavy retraction prints this can eventually cause the filament to grind down and the print to fail but UMO is pretty good about doing 10 or 20 retractions on every spot of filament.

I'm always making my file names too long and when I go to print a part the screen on the UM2 doesn't show the whole name so I can't tell which is which. Because of this when I print my own designs I put the version number first as that changes the most often like: v17_wrench_nz8_2go.gcode Would be version 17 of the "wrench" sliced with 0.8mm nozzle for um2go (things sliced for um2go work on any um2 but not the other way around). On my main network drive which gets backed up every day I store every gcode file and never delete a gcode file if it printed anything - even if it was a failure. That way I can always check back e.g. "how did I print this awesome thing 2 years ago - what were those settings?" The gcode file stores all your cura settings at the end and cura can read them back in so I can find out years later. I also take notes in a notebook I keep near the printers of anything not stored in the gcode file e.g. temperature.

Ich entschuldige mich für Google Translate . Besser dies im Englisch Abschnitt zu stellen, da dies ein ungewöhnliches Problem ist und mehr Menschen Ihren Beitrag dort gelesen werden. Was ist Ihr Rückzugsweg in cura? Es könnte zu weit sein - 1mm sollte viel sein, weil Ihr Bowdenrohr so kurz ist. Der Fehler scheint zu beginnen, wenn Sie mehr Einziehungen beginnen vielleicht mit.

Having the bed a little out of perfect leveling is probably fine for most prints as long as the error is on the "90% transparent" end of things and not the "ropy and doesn't stick to bed" end of things. You should let your print go a little longer. By the 3rd layer it shoudl be great. No one will be able to see these inner layers, right? They will be inside the print. Your photo is a bit blurry as neotko says but from what I can see it's looking quite good so far. Just a little bit of over extrusion possibly (hard to tell) and some weird stringies but I suspect by the 3rd layer it will be all good. If not then try lowering the temperature and possibly also the speed in the TUNE menu while printing.