gr5

lol. Play mostly affects the top and bottom layers but you didn't show that in any of your many pictures. horizontal banding as you have is usually caused by the Z axis moving inconsistent amounts.

I'm not sure what's going on here but usually slowing it way down fixes all kinds of problems because that way there is less pressure in the head. Try 25mm/sec next time you see this (just slow it down in the tune menu) to see if that fixes everything. It could possibly be a cura bug - not sure.

lol. Clearly the pulley above the motor is loose. You need to tighten all 6 (six!) pulleys on each axis for things to work. You missed only 1 pulley on the Y axis.

My first thought also is that the black material might be ABS.

Activating combing will help a lot. This will keep the head from passing over the open holes mostly. Also printing at a lower temperature and slower will help. For example 200C and 25mm/sec will increase the quality and reduce stringing.

The lines you are talking about are I think "travel moves" or "non extruding moves". If you uncheck the "combing" feature it will retract on those travel moves and you will still get lines but less visible. Hopefully the travel moves will be invisible inside your print. The printer isn't perfect - you will often get travel moves on the topmost and bottom most layers.

It works on all the tinkergnome versions of marlin (tinkerMarlin). But not the"default" versions. But tinkerMarlin is better than Marlin anyway as I have it on my machines. It can do things like continue a failed print and other great features and if you know how to use normal marlin then you know how to use tinker Marlin.

8mm^3/sec is basically the max speed for .4mm nozzle. You will get occasional problems going right at the limit like that. And that's for 230C. For lower temps like say 210C you are even more likely to have problems. Typically it just barely works for 30 minutes and then it finally grinds the filament too much and starts slipping too much and you get a failure (ground down filament) at the feeder. Typically. It's very hard to say if this happened to you but 90% chance that is what happened. So try printing hotter and/or slower. Try maybe 230C or 240C or if you care more about the quality cut the layer height or print speed in half. Maybe this never happened before because it's a filament that needs a little more heat.

I move the Z stage and the heads all the time with power off and with power on. Never a problem. UMO, UM2, UM2+, UM2ext, UM2go. In fact if power is off on UMO and you push the head around the controller board lights up. Scare - but not a problem. I have done this thousands of times and on over 50 different Ultimakers.

Yes I was going to say the same thing. The mosfet. It can fail open or closed in your case it failed short circuit. I'm glad your temp sensor is working though!

I'm on phone. So short answer. Hot servos are okay. X slip is pulley set screw Probably motor. Tighten all 6 pulleys on x axis. Very very tight. Should hurt fingers. Z axis sounds more difficult. Is it umo?

Most likely it's the teflon part. I recommend replacing it no matter how good it looks. The newer parts from Ultimaker and my store (gr5.org/store) use a higher temp type of teflon that's better than the teflon Ultimaker used to use.

I'm in the US. I just googled the part number and ordered one through ebay I think. It was a bit expensive - I think $90. I have 2 (two) power supplies that do what you say. It's more I think if you cut power while the printer is moving or something like that. Once it turns on I have never had the power suply fail mid print. I once had to turn it off for 24 hours and that wasn't enough but when I checked it a week after that it was fine. It's very strange that 24 hours was not enough!

The bowden has high friction with ninjaflex. So get some light petroleum oil such as baby oil, sewing machine oil, 3-in-1 oil. Put some on the filament and slide it into the bowden to get it coated in rubber. Also make sure to cut the tip of the filament to a point to get it down to the nozzle. I found the iRoberti feeder or the "plus" feeder work much better than the original feeder for ninjaflex.

Get pronterface/printrun and install it. Connect your computer to the printer through USB. This software allows you to be very careful - for example you can move X axis by 1mm and makes sure nothing bad happens without having to home it. You can then move it 10mm and see if steps/mm is correct and also edit these settings and save them from pronterface. You can also test your limit switches and then test homeing procedure. All one axis at a time. Then test temperature and heater. I forget where you get it as I am travelling this week but if you google pronterface and gr5 at site:ultimaker.com you should be able to find it.

The leveling procedure has made you level the bed too far from the nozzle. Just turn the 3 knobs counter clockwise (as seen from below) a half turn and try again. Your part isn't sticking to the glass because the filament isn't squished enough. You want like the blue print below.

20 hours is not unusual. I've seem some 100 hour prints. But I don't recommend it for a beginner. But you can try. You can speed it up by using a larger nozzle - say a .8mm nozzle with .8mm shell. You can also speed it up by doing .2mm layer height and only 20% infill. Or you can split it up into multiple parts if you are the person who designed it. Or you can just let it go for 20 hours. Don't leave the printer until it has printed the bottom 2cm successfully.

Here's some discussion of backlash and what it looks like- this post and the post below: https://ultimaker.com/en/community/2872-some-calibration-photographs#reply-15396

The movements are I presume in "blue" color? Those are just to go over to a new spot to start printing again. You don't want to print in the same area twice. The "unneccessary" is more complicated than you might think. You may have come up with a better algorithm for your specific part but coming up with a general algorithm is much trickier. The newer cura: 2.X.X has improved and reduced these movements. I'm very visual. Hearing about "unneccessary" movements is not descriptive enough - show my a layer view and circle or arrow the part you think is unneccessary if you think it's important. I doubt this is important. Okay so your post is really old and I type much faster than I can even read and I'm too lazy to ready your original post again but my understanding is this: your STL model is symmetrical and when you slice it it looks PERFECT in layer vewi, right? Is that what you are saying? It looks NOTHING like the final result in the photo above? Maybe to clarify you should show a photo of the part in cura in normal view, layer view, and then final part. anyway back to your ORIGINAL question - lets assume cura is perfect and the model is perfect and the printer makes something VERY DIFFERENT from slice view (again I'm not sure I'm understanding you here - maybe it's bad in slice view also?). Then I'm going to guess you have massive "backlash" or "play". To prove it I'd like to see you slice a 1cmx1xcmx2cm long cuboid with 24% infill, .8mm shell, .4mm nozzle and photograph the top layer close up. Please use a color as gray as possible (as far away from black or white filament) as that shows up the individual liens nicely. It's important that the top layer is a rectangle and not a square. The infill is kind of important too so that doesn't distract the possible backlash errors which are very apparent on a top layer. HOWEVER if your problem is that cura isn't slicing your model right (as I suspect is more likely) then I'd like to see a screen shot of (any one) area that's a problem in both layer view and normal view.

Bed works fine in non-pid mode. Stays within 1C of goal temp. It's large and so the temp moves slowly so it's easy to control the temp and overshoot is not a problem. Um - did it feel hot to the touch? This is strange. If you tilt your printer you can see the control board and there should be a LED for the nozzle and another for the nozzle heater. I could be wrong about this - I don't use my UMO often. On mine you can see when heat is on and off. I think more likely it heated up to a certain temp, then sensor read 88 ohms suddenly, then the heat was just turned off and it seemed fine to you because it takes 10 or 30 minutes to cool down.

You are probably right that ninjaflex is TPE. I don't know. I was *not* able to print ninjaflex on the original black feeder (older UM2 printers) but it prints okay on UMO and on UM2+ or on UMO with iRoberti feeder (a free download from youmagine). But like I said: 10mm/sec, 240C, oil on filament to oil up the bowden and keep adding one drop every printed meter of filament. Here's a recent print on a UM2ext plus with pink ninjaflex - made some "feet" for my stress/strain tester:

I didn't get any gcode files. Maybe post it on dropbox or google driver or somewhere and post a link to the gcode file here on the forum. On the right of your screen there is a slider. Try sliding it down to the "missing" layer area. Is it possible that it *will* print on those areas but it simply isn't showing it visually? You can tell by sliding the layer view down to those layers. It was my impression that the "empty" layers was just an affect of the angle and if you rotated the view or zoomed in a bit you would see it's fine. If it truly is a blank layer like you say, then try looking at the model in xray view. Any red areas are a problem. You might be able to fix it by going to the expert settings and there are 4 checkboxes in the "fix horrible" section. Try "combine everything" both type a and b. if that still doesn't work try type A or type B (never both) in combination with the other 2 checkboxes. I know - there's 11 possible configurations (never check A and B both). Sorry.

Very cool but that doesn't answer my question. Are these accelerations used to calculate the print time or is print time calculation not configurable (hardcoded)?

Well I recommend you start with the official leveling procedure but do it such that the nozzle touches the glass just barely at all 3 points. Knock the glass up and/or down a bit so you can hear where it just barely touches and doesn't touch the glass. Particularly the front two points. That gets you level. Then you want the correct distance to the glass. From that position you can probably print as-is. For large prints which warp off the glass very easily you want to squish the hell out of the plastic. Here is a visual guide: You want it squished almost as much as the transparent yellow skirt above but not that much! You want it somewhere between there and the blue one. if some areas on the plate look like the red or even black bottom layers above and others are like the blue/red/yellow above then you will have a problem where the filament isn't squished as much. Also going to .4mm bottom layer may help you out. Also use the BRIM feature in Cura - this is critical to keep corners from lifting on large parts. 5 outlines of brim is usually enough. Also use glue and clean the glass. The glass needs to be cleaned every month - get oils and dust off the glass which reduce the ability of the plastic to stick. And put a little glue stick ont he glass and spread it around with wet napkin and wait for it to dry (hot bed dries faster). Take a photo of the bottom layer brim - especially zoom in on problem areas wher brim is too thin or thick so I can see if your glass is "saddle" shaped or just tilted or if it's good enough.

Well that's if you print through Cura I suppose. If you print from an SD card and you get stuttering then there are simply too many points too close together. Marlin has to be ready to stop 16 points ahead and if you have say 80 points in the space of say 2mm then you are going to have serious stuttering.