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Ooh - I wouldn't turn off the bed for this one. As long as fan is 100% you shouldn't need to lower the bed temp. This part has a small surface contact and you don't want brim so it's hard to get it to stick well without glass-and-glue-and-heat. But, yeah, you could use blue tape but then you have to re-level and make damn sure the bottom layer is squished and make sure you clean the wax off the blue tape with alcohol. Really I would avoid blue tape unless you are ready to waste a few prints learning a new technology.

If they were from shop3d.ca then I most likely supplied the nozzles (unless they got some from UM but then why did they order from me?). I think it should have the dots. If not dots then they are .25mm. Look more carefully? The dots are always milled or drilled. The older nozzles are laser etched with the nozzle size and the newest nozzles are milled with the size. Steel nozzles are .5mm and are a different color (steel is gray, brass is yellowish)

The iRoberti feeder feeds 1.75mm nicely. I did this for about a month of printing. https://www.youmagine.com/designs/alternative-um2-feeder-version-two

The white part has 4 little knives in it. By now they have scraped your bowden tube smaller. So the first step is to remove 2mm off the end of the bowden such that the knives bite into fresh bowden. Then use proper tighten technique below. How to tighten bowden into head. First remove without scraping it. 1) Loosen the 4 thumb screws 3 full turns. 2) Remove colored C shaped clip 3) Make sure bowden is a bit loose (moves up and down slightly. 4) Push down on outer part while lifting bowden tube. 5) Optionally cut off 2mm Reverse process: 6) Push bowden all the way in - make damn sure it's all the way - if you have an aluminum spacer above your teflon part then move bowden up and down 20 or 30 times until you know where that aluminimum part starts and ends and you are seated all the way. If you just have a spring - yay - you can see if it is seated in the white teflon part (look carefully at this as you insert as the bowden can easily get stuck on the rim of the white part also! 7) Hold bowden down while lifting clip with other hand (finger nails? needle nose?). Now while holding clip up, let go of bowden and tighten the 4 thumb screws so that the bowden is in tight. At this point you should be able to push up and down on the bowden with 1 kg force and nothing should move. 8) Put the C shaped clip back on. To test, try lifting your printer up in the air by the bowden or at least lift with 5kg force. The feeder can force about 5kg only (UM2+ I'm guessing 10kg?) The printer probably weighs about 5 to 10kg.

Also you don't need "support everywhere" so you should consider doing only "touching buildplate" for htis model Or even better design your own support that only covers a small amount of the bottom surface - not as much as cura support did (or change the "support angle" in cura). I could be wrong about support everywhere as I can't see the top of your part.

picture please. your "warping" might not mean what my "warping" means. I assume you mean: "it's absolutely perfect except some or all corners are lifting and absolutely no other problems!". If that's what you mean than that is very common with higher glass temp materials (basically anything besides PLA). There are many solutions - the best involve getting it to STICK LIKE HELL although PET has a reputation for sticking so well that pieces of glass bed come off into the print. Some solutions: 1) Corners MUST be rounded. Having a sharp corner concentrates the pulling force on it. If your corner must be sharp then add brim. Adding brim also helps big time for other reasons - spreading the lifting force out over larger area and not letting air get inder (vacuum held down part, lol). 2) cover the front of the machine. This is probably mandatory with PET and ABS as if you don't you probably get bad layer adhesion also anyway. So just do this. 3) Cover the top - not well - just put a stupid box on it. Tape it on. Don't try to get fancy with scissors or anything. This should bring air temp during printing up to 40C to 50C. Don't go over 50C as steppers will not be happy. 4) squish the bottom layer well into the glass - just turn your 3 screws CCW (raise glass towards nozzle) by a half turn. Turn them equal amount. Don't worry about leveling procedure - ignore that. 5) Clean glass. Consider adding very very thin layer of PVA but this can again cause your part to remove some glass chunks! So this is last resort (second to last - last resort is to use raft - but don't do that! Not necessary!) 6) Hot build plate. Keep it above glass temp of material. Look it up. I'm guessing around 100C is best. Not certain. This also helps heat the air in your box. In fact let it stay hot for a good 15 minutes before starting the print. 7) Less fan - this won't help warping so much as help your layer adhesion issues which you haven't noticed yet

Slow and cold. 35mm/sec, 200C, .1mm layer (optional) and LOTS OF FAN. 100% fan isn't really quite enough - adding another fan helps. Done with *only* 100% fan:

It's a standard 7mm hex socket. Try local hardware store.

I've printed 3 of those. They are a bit tricky. Go slow, cool and max possible fan. Add more fan if possible (attach external desk fan?). I recommend 35mm/sec, .2mm layer and 195C.

The red areas in xray view are causing the problem. They are extra internal walls or holes. cura pases a line from your eye through the model and out. If it passes through an odd number of walls it colors it red indicating a serious problem with the model (not manifold). You can try the "fix horrible" settings in cura - one of those checkboxes might fix it but there are 11 possible configurations of checkboxes to try (never click both A and B). Instead try to fix your model - maybe use netfabb website which is incredibly easy to use and will fix these red areas.

It could be a bad endstop. Find someone with a multimeter and measure the resitance when the endstop hasn't triggered - it should be an open (infinite ohms or certainly > 100k ohms) then the more likely problem - close the switch with your finger and measure again and it should be 0 ohms ( < 10 ohms is good enough). It's probably a bad wire. If this test fails then check again where the wire connects to the switch. if this all passes you could have a faulty board (most likely missing a resistor) or it's plugged in the wrong place (check instructions). You can also install pronterface on a PC and connect it through USB and it will tell you which switches are closed and you can test them all by pushing on them.

Check out 3dhubs.com. You can see locations of all the hubs and choose one nearby or contact several.

Dust can get into the nozzle (onto the filament, through the feeder, through the bowden, into the nozzle) and cause clogs if the pieces of dust are small yet still larger than the diameter of the nozzle (e.g. 0.4mm).

That's what this 15 page topic is all about. There's even videos if you look through it. I think video is better than pdf in this case because people kind of have to see you actually do it and the number of seconds submerged and all that. And how much you suffer from the fumes! I believe acetone goes right through skin so if you try this at home wear gloves, do it only out doors and with fan blowing fumes away from you.

aluminum and brass is soft - many people have destroyed their brass parts using a simple hand wrench. Go easy! use heat! Use WD40 (works even better than liquid wrench).

Well here is my complete list of what causes underextrusion - but it's a LOT of things to check and most of them are unlikely: CAUSES FOR UNDEREXTRUSION AND HOW TO TEST FOR THEM AND REMEDY THEM As far as underextrusion causes - there's just so damn many. none of the issues seem to cause more than 20% of problems so you need to know the top 5 issues to cover 75% of the possibilities and 1/4 people still won't have the right issue. Some of the top issues: 1) Print slower and hotter! Here are top recommended speeds for .2mm layers (twice as fast for .1mm layers) and .4mm nozzle: 20mm/sec at 200C 30mm/sec at 210C 40mm/sec at 225C 50mm/sec at 240C The printer can do double these speeds but with huge difficulty and usually with a loss in part quality due to underextrusion. Different colors print best at quite different temperatures and due to imperfect temp sensors, some printers print 10C cool so use these values as an initial starting guideline and if you are still underextruding try raising the temp. But don't go over 240C with PLA. 2) Shell width confusion. Shell width must be a multiple of nozzle size. If nozzle size is .4mm and shell width is 1mm cura will make the printer do 2 passes with .5mm line width which is possible but requires you slow down much more to make a .5mm line out of a .4mm nozzle. If you really want this then set nozzle size to .5mm so it's clear what you are asking Cura to do for you. 3) Isolator - this is most common if you've printed extra hot (>240C) for a few hours or regular temps (220C) for 500 hours. It warps. It's the white part touching the heater block. Test it by removing it and passing filament though it by hand. Also if you notice parts of it are very soft then it's too old and needs replacing. 4) Curved filament at end of spool - if you are past half way on spool, try a fresh spool as a test. 5) curved angle feeding into feeder - put the filament on the floor -makes a MASSIVE difference. 6) Head too tight? Bizarrely MANY people loosen the 4 screws on the head by just a bit maybe 1/2 mm and suddenly they can print just fine! Has to do with pressure on the white teflon isolator. 5b) Bowden pushing too hard - for the same reason you don't want the bowden pushing too hard on the isolator. 5c) Spring pushing too hard. Although you want a gap you want as small as possible a gap between teflon isolator and steel isolator nut such that the spring is compressed as little as possible. 7) clogged nozzle - the number one problem of course - even if it seems clear. There can be build up on the inside of the nozzle that only burning with a flame can turn to ash and remove. Sometimes a grain of sand gets in there but that's more obvious (it just won't print). Atomic method (cold pull) helps but occasionally you need to remove the entire heater block/nozzle assembly and use flame. Or soak it in acetone overnight (after removing 90% of the material with cold pull). 8) Temp Sensor bad - even the good ones vary by +/- 5C and bad ones can be any amount off - they usually read high and a working sensor can fail high slowly over time. Meaning the sensor thinks you are at 220C but actually you are at 170C. At 170C the plastic is so viscous it can barely get out of the nozzle. You can verify your temp sensor using this simple video at youtube - on you tube search for this: mrZbX-SfftU 9) feeder spring issues - too tight, too loose 10) Other feeder issues, one of the nuts holding machine together often interferes with the feeder motor tilting it enough so that it still works but not very well. Other things that tilt the feeder motor, sleeve misaligned so it doesn't get a good grip. Gunk clogging the mechanism in there. 11) Filament diameter too big - 3mm is too much. 3mm filament is usually 2.85mm nominal or sometimes 2.9mm +/- .05. But some manufacturers (especially in china) make true 3.0mm filament with a tolerance of .1mm which is useless in an Ultimaker. It will print for a few meters and then clog so tight in the bowden you will have to remove the bowden from both ends to get the filament out. Throw that filament in the trash! It will save you weeks of pain 11b) Something wedged in with the filament. I was setting up 5 printers at once and ran filament change on all of them. One was slowly moving the filament through the tube and was almost to the head when I pushed the button and it sped up and ground the filament badly. I didn't think it was a problem and went ahead and printed something but there was a ground up spot followed by a flap of filament that got jammed in the bowden tube. Having the "plus" upgrade or using the IRobertI feeder helps you feel this with your hand by sliding the filament through the bowden a bit to see if it is stuck. 12) Hot weather. If air is above 30C or even possibly 25C, the air temperature combined with the extruder temperature can soften the filament inside the feeder such that it is getting squeezed flat as it passes through the feeder - this is obvious as you can see the problem in the bowden. The fix is to add a desk fan blowing on the back of the printer. Not an issue on the UM2 "plus" series. 13) Crimped bowden. At least one person had an issue where the bowden was crimped a bit too much at the feeder and although the printer worked fine when new it eventually got worse and had underextrusion on random layers. it's easy to pull the bowden out of the feeder end and examine it. 14) Small nozzle. Rumor has it some of the .4mm nozzles are closer to .35mm. Not sure if this is actually true. I'm a bit skeptical but try a .6mm nozzle maybe. 15) CF. The gnurled sleeve in the extruder can get ground down smooth - particularly from carbon fill. 4 spools of CF will destroy not just nozzles but the gnurled sleeve also. Look at it visually where the filament touches the "pyramids". Make sure the pyramids are sharp.

Why leave tinker? It's great. Well did you possibly get the "2go" firmware on a um2? I assume not. You can do "reset to factory settings" as those distances I believe are stored on the eeprom but note that you will lose all your "odometer" readings such as "hours printing" so write those down for posterity first. Also note that for removing filament you can just cut power and pull it out (you might have to heat the head to 150C or hotter first). and for inserting you can use "advanced" "insert" and then cancel when it slows down and switch to "move material" to speed things up (or again, cut power and just shove it in there - I prever "move material" aka "move" in tinker marlin).

Strange. You can mess with fan speed and observe it in the TUNE menu while printing. Did you try that? Try spinning it manually with your fingers. I'm guessing it's "gummed up" with some kind of dusty grease and takes 4 minutes to get started but then is fine after that.

He's probably on vacation. I'll send sam an email with a link to this topic.

The feeder should be able to lift about 5kg of weight so that's one way to test it. In general tighter is better as long as you don't turn the circular filament into an ellipse that gets stuck somewhere (head or bowden). Filament on the left needs more pressure. Filament on the right is possibly a little too much.

What swordriff said. You can print much better quality and much faster if you print 2 at once so that one is cooling while the other is printing. Select "all at once" in cura menu. The spiral pattern is probably underextrusion. You don't appear to be printing all that fast so I'm not sure why you get that. What is your: speed, nozzle width, layer height, nozzle temp? These 4 variables work together to tell me if you are printing "too fast". Also how old is that work machine? I suspect it needs a new teflon part as that is the most common thing to fail and cause underextrusion.

You can always use black nylon.

Can you be more specific on type of material? In one sense it's fine: change materials all you want. In some other senses it's not so fine. PLA is an amazing material but there are some interesting alternatives. What property are you hoping for in your other material? Flexibility? temperature resistance?

Try controlling your printer directly using pronterface/printrun and try the 3 most common fan commands to see how your fan responds. It could be that UM doesn't need the fan on command to be able to control the speed. Or alternatively it could be that something is broken in your firmware or hardware such that setting speed to anything below 255 does nothing. Printrun is a free download here: http://koti.kapsi.fi/~kliment/printrun/

Soap. Soap and water will remove oils. It's really amazing stuff.