gr5

MB = block v3? Let's maybe abbreviate BV3 instead. Some terminology: Matchless nozzles: All newer nozzles - all of them are chrome plated except the 2mm one. Race nozzles: Some of the Matchless nozzles are also "Race" meaning they have that internal structure to heat up the filament more thoroughly. The smaller nozzles (<=.25mm) don't have or need that and for 1.75mm filament it's probably not needed for the .4mm nozzles either (time and testing will decide I suppose).

Oh okay about the fans. But definitely try .1mm layer height and 25mm/sec and lower your nozzle temp some more.

Ha! You didn't follow my advice. :( .1 layer, 25mm/sec, 100% fans by the time you are at layer 1mm from bed.

The quick answer is: go to advanced tab, then quality section and in "cut off object bottom" enter 10mm. The better answer is to figure out what went wrong in meshmixer such that it left something 10mm below your part and delete that. Also keep in mind you should always look at your part in slice view also before printing it as this shows up lots of potential problems - make sure you scroll through EVERY layer at least briefly - you can use shift+up arrow and down arrow to go through layers quickly.

.1mm layer 25mm/sec fan at 100% at 1mm nozzle temp 195C Also if after that you still have all that ringing next to those round bumps then lower your acceleration to 2000 mm/sec/sec or instead maybe tighten the belts a bit more. Tightening or loosening the belts will change the harmonic frequency and reduce that ringing. Loosen them too much though and you get play. Lowering acceleration to 2000mm/sec/sec should reduce the jerk which will reduce the ringing also.

Oh and UM used to (still does) test every UM2 at 8mm^3/sec at 230C. At .1mm layers and .4mm nozzle thats 200mm/sec which agrees with my table (again, I recommend printing at half max possible speed but you can push the limits and print twice as fast but barely and only if everything is perfect).

This table is for PLA. I don't know anything about "easyfil". This table was created by running my printer and seeing where the feeder skipped back and then cutting the speed in half to be safe. Here are my recommended top speeds for .1mm layers and .4mm nozzle: 40mm/sec at 200C 60mm/sec at 210C 80mm/sec at 225C 100mm/sec at 240C

I now sell UMO teflon parts. I haven't put it up in my store yet - hope to do so soon but contact me if you want to buy one from me: thegr5store _at_ gmail.com

Well, yes. I have to admit that after I burn it out I do one cold pull but not on the printer - just using a 10cm piece of nylon filament and I do it over the stove. I use water to gauge when it's at 100C then heat for 20 seconds more, remove from heat, insert nylon such that some comes out the tip - hold the nylon in there under pressure for a long time (it heats faster than it cools - I should memorize the seconds but I have only done this 3 times ever) and then cold pull it out at around 130C hopefully.

Because the most common problem posted to this form is this one right here. This topic. And the cause is that people follow the leveling procedure perfectly. But it leaves the nozzle a the nominal distance from the glass. Which is a problem. "nominal distance"? I mean that after leveling if you set Z=0.3mm then the nozzle is .3mm off the glass. Again - makes sense. But when you go to print you get exactly as shown above (well maybe in his case he was .4mm off the bed when trying to print .3mm). Now maybe it's not the leveling procedure that sucks. Maybe it's Cura that should be over extruding the bottom layer a bit. But this is THE BIGGEST PROBLEM for new people using the printer. Parts don't stick because they are not squishing it enough. Only when they become experts (over 100 prints) should they be introduced to the idea of leveling it to nominal position for slightly increased dimensional accuracy on the bottom layer.

There are people who ordered the plus kit in February who still don't have it yet. So I assume UM is still trying to catch up and only then will they assist the resellers in stocking spare parts. But I'm just guessing. I sell an alternative to the UMw plus kit at thegr5store.com but really don't want to ship to England as that is 3dsolex territory. 3dsolex ordered all the parts for the "meduza upgrade kit" and should be selling that soon. I don't sell fan shroud or fans though but offer alternatives. More details here (scroll down to description): http://thegr5store.com/store/index.php/ultimaker2-plus-upgrade-kit.html

If they are older nozzles from before the laser etching than the "dot guide" gets more complicated but I can supply that also. Even the new matchless nozzles obey the above guideline but they continue: 1.5mm 5 dots 2.0mm 6 dots

Your nozzle is too far from the bed. Ignore the stupid leveling procedure. Just turn the 3 screws a half rotation CCW to move glass closer to nozzle. Turn them all equal amounts because presumably the bed is *level*, just not close enough.

Cool! Cold pull is over rated anyway. I rarely do it anymore. I mean it can help quite a bit but only on rare occasions. Back when we had the non-olsson blocks and couldn't easily remove the nozzle it was essential. But when you can just unscrew the nozzle you don't need cold pull so much anymore. Just put it in a flame and burn the hell out of anything in there. Or throw the nozzle away (I have never had to throw away a nozzle yet).

Ha! You should meet him in real life! He is the same. But I love all people and he is easy to love. You have to look for the good in everyone. He is a very nice and honest person. Warm, friendly, loving. He knows he is lucky to have a wife that puts up with him. He always shows a happy face even when (almost always) he is in physical pain. I'd rather hang out with him than someone who is depressed. But I know exactly what you guys mean. Over the top. Crass. Jokes not funny. But that covers up a genuinely kind person. He's quite smart also and somehow finds patience when alone.

@vitt1812 - I don't know why your teeth don't mesh. The photos aren't good enough. Please remove enough so we can see the gap between the gears you speak of. maybe just remove the round piece that "protects fingers".

@vitt1812 - I broke the same black part (it's laser cut delrin). You could make one if you have a makerspace nearby but what I did was find a piece of plastic toy/junk that should have been thrown away long ago but that had a flat surface and was about the same thickness as the black part. I then just drilled a hole the right diameter and then cut it with strong shears (scissors) into the aproximate correct shape. It's ugly but it works. Once printer is working of course you can 3d print that part. Probably. It needs to be hella strong.

If the pulleys aren't slipping then you are losing steps which is usually friction related. Make sure the short belt at the stepper isn't rubbing the wood - if it does it will twist each time you switch directions in Y. Also by now there will be lots of black dust under that region (on the stepper, also below the bed). If you see the dust then you need to move the belt 0.5mm farther from the wood. Maybe add some washers or other spacer to move the motor farther from the wood. Make sure the pulley on the motor is as close to the motor as possible without touching. Also high friction can cause you to lose steps. Make sure X and Y friction is similar by pushing with power off. Make sure the end caps on the upper gantry rods isn't so tight that there is added friction there (easy to test - push head a bit, loosen screws on caps - try again). Also clean all rods and oil the 4 that don't go through the head (the 2 through the head shouldn't need oil as they have ball bearings and oil can gunk them up although oil probably won't hurt much).

Did you tighten the hell out of the set screw on the motor? And the one above the motor (the 2 on the short belt). It's usually one of the ones on the short belt. Not the other 4 on the long belts that are easier to get to.

This is strange. I don't get any underextrusion at 282 steps. This is an *old* UM2 from when it first came out years ago but it has tinkergnome firmware. I put the "plus" kit on my UM2 extended (which does not have tinker gnome and I don't know steps/mm on that machine). I also put the meduza 2x upgrade on my UM2 temporarily and increased steps to 282*2 (scroll to final photo here): http://gr5.org/med/ At the moment I have the "bond tech" feeder on my UM2 but that machine is in the basement for a few days (resting) and I don't want to check steps/mm for that setup at the moment.

Just get the kit from 3dsolex and print this part. It works fine. I've printed quite a bit with it but find it no better (or worse) than 3mm: Print this in ABS!!: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/um2-spring-replacement

The spring is okay but having less pressure is good so I recommend putting a part in there. This one works good. You may have to tweak it 0.5mm or so either way but it should fine with any Olsson block or block v3 on the non-plus printers. I printed this part in ABS as it does get a bit hot up in there. The window is fantastic improvement over ultimakers opaque aluminum: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/um2-spring-replacement

They don't curl due to cooler temps, they curl there because that is where the forces are strongest. The upper layers are pulling horizontally inward - the longer the distance the stronger the force. Particularly read #6 below. With blue tape instead of glass you also have to clean the blue tape with alcohol to remove waxy surface. The problem you talk about still happens to people who don't know about the tricks below. === lifting corners, curling corners, part sticking to glass 1) Make sure the glass is clean if you haven't cleaned it for a few weeks. You want a very thin coat of PVA glue which is found in hairspray, glue stick, wood glue. If you use glue stick or wood glue you need to dilute it with water - about 5 to 10 parts water to 1 part glue. So for example if you use glue stick, apply only to the outer edge of your model outline then add a tablespoon of water and spread with a tissue such that you thin it so much you can't see it anymore. wood glue is better. hairspray doesn't need to be diluted. When it dries it should be invisible. This glue works well for most plastics. 2) Heat the bed. This helps the plastic fill in completely (no air pockets) so you have better contact with the glass. For PLA any temp above 40C is safe. I often print at 60C bed. 3) heat the bed (didn't I already say that?). Keeping the bottom layers above the glass temp of the material makes it so the bottom layers can flex a bit (very very tiny amount) and relieve the tension/stress. For PLA 60C is better than 50C. 70C is even better but then you get other "warping" like issues at the corners where they move inward but if you are desperate it's worth it. For ABS you want 110C (100C is good enough). 4) rounded corners - having square corners puts all the lifting force on a tiny spot. Rounding the corner spreads the force out more. This is optional if you use brim. 5) Brim - this is the most important of all. Turn on the brim feature in cura and do 10 passes of brim. This is awesome. 6) Squish - make sure the bottom layer is squishing onto the glass with no gaps in the brim. The first trace going down should be flat like a pancake, not rounded like string. don't run the leveling procedure if it is off, just turn the 3 screws the same amount while it is printing the skirt or brim. Counter clockwise from below gets the bed closer to the nozzle. Don't panic, take a breath, think about which way to move the glass, think about how the screw works, then twist. This may take 30 seconds but it's worth it to not rush it. You can always restart the print.

What? Mine is 282: X80 Y80 Z200 E282 Possibly I messed with that value years ago but I don't think so.

G1 Z200 will work. That tells the z axis to "go" to position 200mm. G0 and G1 do the same thing.