gr5

Unfortunately some of the older Olsson blocks have a tight fit and some of the UM steel couplers also and if you add slight corrosion you just can't get those together. All the Olsson blocks sold through me in USA are sent through the die (look up tap & die if you don't know what this is) one more time so they don't bind up like this. so you can either spend $10 or so for a die and fix your own or you can send the Olsson block back and demand one that has a looser fit. Or you can buy your steel coupler from 3dsolex or create3D. Those always fit. In other words if you get the Olsson block and steel couplers built by 3dsolex they always fit. But if your steel coupler is from Ultimaker then *sometimes* it's a tight fit. Much too tight. Incidentally you should have heated only the round steel coupler but not the block. You want the coupler to expand but not the block (metals expand when hot). And use a drop of wd40 also.

I didn't realize you wanted to use the {} feature. When you are in cura, do "file save profile..." and then open the resulting ini file in a text editor. Every parameter in there should be insertable into the start gcode if you want using the {} feature with the names basically matching the names in the ini file.

Mine is centered. Something is broken in your feeder. Open it up and see what is going on inside - something popped out of it's axle or something.

Cura is the slicer. Marlin is the firmware. But you do use Cura to upload a new firmware (a new marlin). Tinker marlin is great. Just try it. There's no downside. My printers were all working fine before the plus kit. If you want a cheaper version of the plus kit you can try my alternative (read the long description at the bottom): http://gr5.org/store/index.php/ultimaker2-plus-upgrade-kit.html

Oh wait - you already swapped nozzles. Never mind.

Your feeder is a bit chewed up. Sometimes that wood dust gets onto the bowden and carried into the nozzle and causes a clog. Even though the nozzle looks clear you might want to just unscrew it (make sure it's heated to at least 150C when removing as plastic can act as thread lock) and then scrape it clean from the inside. Although of course a cold pull does pretty much the same thing if one thing doesn't work try another.

That looks seriously bad. I think your feeder is defective/broken.

I'm guessing you have the UMO. For UM2 typically Cura doesn't send any temperature reading to the printer and you set that up on the printer itself. For both printers the temperature will be whatever happens most recently. So if you set the temp to value A and then tell it to PRINT it will read through the gcodes in order. When it gets to one like M104 it will switch to value B. If later you change the temp on the controller to temperature C it will then move to that value. If later a M104 shows up as the printer is reading the gcode line by line and it says temperature D then that takes precedence. Whatever command (gcode or front panel) that is most recent is what the printer does. Cura puts in the temp you specify in the gui (but again not for UM2 printers which use ultigcode which is a fancy way of saying the temperature is not mentioned).

More details here from this 2 year old post: https://ultimaker.com/en/community/5222-pulling-force-of-um-extruder

Note at least 15 pounds of weight in the pot. Note the scale. I hit the "tare" or "reset" button on the scale when there is no tension on the feeder, then I feed using pronterface (that's pronterface running on the laptop). I tell pronterface to feed slowly - maybe 1mm per second - (60mm per minute) and then tell it to move extruder 100mm and watch the scale memorizing the max value seen and write it down. The feeder on the UM2 has more power at higher speeds but the feeder on the UMO doesn't as it is limited just by the knurled wheel's ability to grip (and tension and the bearing wheel, etc). I did this test for UM2 and UMO and they are similar both around 10-15 pounds or 5kg.

Make sure you push the filament from the feeder end by hand with the feeder "open". First pull it out half way and the push it back in so you can feel the resistance in the bowden as rarely that is the problem. Then feel is it hits each "bump" e.g. teflon part, peek part, nozzle. Doing this and then seeing how fast it flows with a given amount of push is good practice so that you get a feel for "normal" (it's a bit too late for that perhaps). If you really want to test your feeder strength here is how I did it:

My daughter did a nice family vacation video of our san francisco trip - this link starts at the makerfaire section. Note the 1 second of drone footage over the Ultimaker booth at the 2:14 mark.

@DrR1pper - I looked at photos of that printer and it looks like the feeder is on the head so that's why it has such a slow jerk and acceleration setting. The UM2 can go to 9000 accel I believe and certainlyl 20 jerk no problem. The reason you tend to get better quality is that with those high accel/jerk the head barely slows down on corners such that you don't get much underextrusion on the long straitaways. With low accel you can hear the head slowing down for every corner and then you get overextrusion (pressure in the nozzle) and then as it speeds up out of the corner you get underextrusion a little bit. The faster you print the worse this is. But if you have very high accel the extruder barely needs to ever slow down and can (almost) constant feedrate and constant nozzle pressure for a consisistent smooth flow of filament onto your print (no over extrusion, no under extrusion).

I don't know about UMO as I haven't paused a UMO print ever I think. But I'm pretty sure the UM2 lets you do that - get to the TUNE menu while paused and in the TUNE menu you can do things like turn off fans and nozzle heater.

It's too bad you didn't try heat in addition to WD40. That combination works great for me. I've changed about 5 temp sensors on old printers this way. It can be scary and feel like you'll never get it out but I usually do (have also destroyed 2 temp sensors). I don't know why heat works but it does. Also I use a sewing needle to pry the temp sensor a little bit around the edges.

>The main issue seems to be that it doesn't easily stick to itself All higher-glass-temp materials have this problem. It's because the layer above isn't melting the layer below. Common solutions are: Printing hotter (usually not the best solution) Turning off fan or lowering fan to minimum (about 25%) Enclosing machine so air heats to 40C or 50C. It's tricky to learn a new material like ABS or XT after printing PLA but you may remember it took you a while to get really good at PLA also. Anytime you try a new material expect a long learning curve.

Friday was much less crowded. I recommend going Friday and Saturday. Sunday is the most crowded as there is a family discount. I'm bummed I didn't get to meet you. I was there all 3 days. I posted on the forums asking if anyone was going to please contact me but no one did. :( Still I met hundreds of people but very few from the forums.

ginge robotfuzz marlin builder came out before umo+ and hasn't been updated. Use this instead: https://bultimaker.bulles.eu/

Well you probably ground the filament at the feeder. Try pulling it out backwards a bit (while nozzle at 150C) and examine the filament. If I'm right then you either have too many retractions or maybe you were printing too fast. Please post a photo of the print you were printing (I want to see how many retractions it is likely to have on a layer) and post all your cura settings somewhere (best to do "save profile" and just post that entire ini file).

It may be a nozzle clog - or at least a very thin layer of carbonized gunk inside the nozzle tip. Consider getting a few extras - they are very inexpensive. Also consider removing the filament and nozzle while hot, letting it cool, then stick filament up from below to check for problems. I suspect everything is fine in there other than nozzle and possibly feeder. You could check the pull strength of the feeder. UMO and UM2 are both about 10 pounds pulling strength.

I found that lower acceleration reduced quality because then you get the extruder speeding up and slowing down which causes over extrusion when it slows down (corners) and underextrusion in between. Same thing with lower jerk. However with high values you can get another quality issue that most people call "ringing" and look similar to zebra stripes but is different.

That is one beautiful print. What kind of printer was used?

The point is that the power supply supplies a certain voltage (24V) and it *tries* to keep it at 24V no matter how little the board draws. So for example if the board draws zero amps the power supply won't try to supply 200W. The wattage on the supply is the MAX it supplies. It doesn't hurt to use an extra large supply. So getting a power supply that can supply more power than needed will work fine.

um2go can definitely handle the 35W heater fine. Plus much more as Labern says.