gr5

If it's truly vibrating you could add some angled support columns that join with the part 1/4 and 1/2 way up the side. Make them at least 10mm across - actually I like the 20% rule: Supports width/height should be > 0.2. If you are good with cad you can even taper the supports to make them at half thickness near the top of the support.

I don't know this slicer so I don't know what the extrusion multiplier of .8 does exactly but it sounds like it would underextrude by 20%. Are you sure that's correct? Too cold, too fast. Your bottom layer is .35mm thick, with .4mm nozzle and 60mm/sec that is 8.4 mm^3/sec. much too fast for 200C. Try 240C if you are going to print that fast or slow it down to maybe 10mm/sec for the bottom layer, then 20mm/sec for the rest. The UMO can print that fast at 240C but you are still pushing it a bit. I recommend you print at half maximum speed as shown below. For the bottom layer of course it's almost twice as thick so print half these speeds... Here are my recommended top speeds for .2mm layers (twice as fast for .1mm layers): 20mm/sec at 200C 30mm/sec at 210C 40mm/sec at 225C 50mm/sec at 240C The printer can do double these speeds but with huge difficulty and usually with a loss in part quality due to underextrusion. Different colors print best at quite different temperatures and due to imperfect temp sensors, some printers print 10C cool so use these values as an initial starting guideline and if you are still underextruding try raising the temp. But don't go over 240C with PLA.

I had the impression that if you send zero settings to curaEngine it would pick defaults for you. Anyway, if you run the cura gui and select some quickprint settings, then do "save profile..." you can save every setting into an easily readable file.

Now to address split layers and something you didn't mention. The split layers are an ABS only problem. They are caused mostly because you don't have good layer adhesion (never a problem with PLA). The glass temp of ABS is about 100C so you need to get the next layer down well above that - maybe 140C when the layer above touches it. This means you don't really want the ABS to cool below about 90C. The simplest fix is to reduce fan. You really need very little fan with ABS. I would think layer thickness matters but I'm not sure (thicker layers have more thermal mass to melt below but if you print extra slow and thein you have the nozzle almost heating layer below). More importantly: less fan and consider enclosing printer and print hotter. Now to the second issue - how hot? Well unlike PLA, ABS will cook to a solid gummy gunk in just a minute or 2 in the nozzle at a mere 255C. But if you print at only 240C you probably won't get good layer adhesion (unless you enclose the machine which helps but isn't mandatory). So if you *do* print at 255C or hotter than print fast - leaving the nozzle at 260C for a few minutes without extruding is disaster. PLA also cooks to solid gunk but it takes more like 10 or 50 minutes. Not 2 minutes.

Welcome to ABS. It takes maybe 100 prints to get really really good at PLA. You probably forgot this - we tend to forget the bad and remember the good. Well it also takes quite a few prints to get good at ABS. You mention several problems including: spaghetti, not sticking to glue, parts not sticking, horizontal cracks. It would help people posting answers to stick with just one or two problems per post. So don't be surprised if after my post you only get answers to one of your issues. The sticking is the easiest to fix. make sure bed is at 100C. Minimum. It makes it easier to get there if you cover the front and/or top of the machine but not mandatory to get ABS to stick like hell. Probably you just need to squish the ABS into the glass harder. The leveling procedure only gets you close - then you want to ram it in a little harder. I'm going to paste some information here about sticking - the issues are identical to PLA except ABS has MUCH more shrinkage force than PLA and a higher glass temp but otherwise same advice. 1) Make sure the glass is clean if you haven't cleaned it for a few weeks. You want a very thin coat of PVA glue which is found in hairspray, glue stick, wood glue. If you use glue stick or wood glue you need to dilute it with water - about 5 to 10 parts water to 1 part glue. So for example if you use glue stick, apply only to the outer edge of your model outline then add a tablespoon of water and spread with a tissue such that you thin it so much you can't see it anymore. wood glue is better. hairspray doesn't need to be diluted. When it dries it should be invisible. This glue works well for most plastics. 2) Heat the bed. This helps the plastic fill in completely (no air pockets) so you have better contact with the glass. For ABS 90C is enough. 3) heat the bed (didn't I already say that?). Keeping the bottom layers above the glass temp of the material makes it so the bottom layers can flex a bit (very very tiny amount) and relieve the tension/stress. For ABS you want 110C (100C is good enough). 4) rounded corners - having square corners puts all the lifting force on a tiny spot. Rounding the corner spreads the force out more. This is optional if you use brim. 5) Brim - this is the most important of all. Turn on the brim feature in cura and do 10 passes of brim. This is awesome. (I notice you did this already) 6) Squish - make sure the bottom layer is squishing onto the glass with no gaps in the brim. The first trace going down should be flat like a pancake, not rounded like string. don't run the leveling procedure if it is off, just turn the 3 screws the same amount while it is printing the skirt or brim. Counter clockwise from below gets the bed closer to the nozzle. Don't panic, take a breath, think about which way to move the glass, think about how the screw works, then twist. This may take 30 seconds but it's worth it to not rush it. You can always restart the print. If you do all this you will then ask me "how the hell do I get my part off the glass?". Well first let it cool completely. Or even put it in the freezer. Then use a sharp putty knife under a corner and it should pop off.

Don't make me read the thingiverse settings. What was your print speed, layer height, and temperature? I recommend 35mmsec, .2mm and 230C to start. If you are patient then 35mm/sec, .1mm and 210C. This should minimize underextrusion which is what your problem looks like. HOWEVER It could indeed be the Z. Many people have trouble with their Z such that it drops down too far suddenly. Usually it sticks for a layer or 2 and then drops 2 or 3 layers all at once. Usually it's the ball bearings. To test them, unscrew the Z ball bearings from the plate and slide them up and down by hand and check the feel. You don't want or need any oil on the Z rods. Clean any oil or dust off. If the Z bearings stick at all you need to remove them and clean them with WD40 and dry them well. Alternatively put something heavy (about 1kg or 2 pounds) on the back of your Z stage. This also often helps.

You definitely can do your own HB solution. You have to worry about thermistor, firmware upgrade (that I can help you with easily), wiring, possible relay, power supply... The UM upgrade however gives you a much better steel bed. My old wooden bed had to be releveled every day - it kept slumping due to my heavy heated bed (home built). But the upgraded steel bed held it's position for a month. No leveling needed for a month!

With power off, push the head until you hear the click of the endstop switch. Then see how much farther the head will go - that's how much room you have to spare. I'm guessing no more than 3mm but who knows? Do the same with the Y axis. This experiment should take you all of 10 seconds. Bending the limit switches with pliers should take no more than 5 minutes but it's not worth it if you only gain 1/2mm.

Wow! You got a um2 into that little suitcase? wow.

Which printer? I don't know how to do it for the um2+ but for the UM2 it's pretty easy and obvious - just loosen the set screw on the side. I think it's a 1.5mm hex.

Absolutely. I've never done this so not sure how - but I would guess maybe you can see the actual command line that cura runs and you could duplicate that syntax. The gui is called cura. The slicer is called curaEngine. So it would be more like: curaEngine -o output.gcode model.stl or you can try curaEngine -h which lists some of the parameters. The 3x3 matrix is for rotation and translation of your model so you don't need that. Try googleing curaEngine command line or similar.

max temp is what you get when it measures infinite ohms for the temp sensor. Disconnect that cable on your PCB and measure it yourself directly. It should be around 108 ohms at room temperature. Anything 100-120 ohms implies the temp sensor is fine.

> bed sensor temp error That's not a firmware problem. That's a hardware problem. I would take the bed apart and reflow the solder at the connector. But better would be to take the bed apart and turn the printer on and look at the bed temp. then push around in various places to see if the wires are maybe loose there at the heated bed or maybe one of the screws is loose (the temp sensor wires are the 2 thinner wires of the 4 wires going to the bed). It's common for the solder to break free after movement over many months of printing. If you can't get it to do the error, remove the panel under the printer and push on the cabling at that end. But it's much much more likely to be the terminal block on the heated bed: either the screws aren't tight enough or the solder cracked.

The error you are seeing implies that the printer can not see the temp sensor at all. If you measured the resistance undereneath the printer at the end of the cable, and if the wires seem okay, then I would replace the PCB.

Maybe if you are lucky 3dsolex will come out with a cheaper version of the um2+ upgrade kit.

If someone has an old desktop printer - many of those have the correct cable. Also I believe all UM printers come with the correct cable in the box. Or you can spend the $3 or so and get one on amazon or ebay. http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B0030FMQ90/ref=sr_1_3_olp?ie=UTF8&qid=1456518778&sr=8-3&keywords=usb+cable+for+printer&condition=new

Just ptfe then. It sticks too well to metals also.

I've heard bad things about "all metal" hot ends including e3D. PLA just sticks to everything except PEEK and teflon. Can't speak to the Orion. At least the company has been making printers for more than a year. It usually seems to take a year of shipments and customer complaints before these small companies have most of the bugs worked out of their new products.

Really? I guess I've never seen it happen so I don't know what to look for. I could interpret the shadows several different ways inside the ptfe. I'm not an expert on failed ptfe because I've never had one fail.

Maybe you have a 35W heater instead of 25W? You can test the heater wattage if you have an ohm meter - just disconnect it at the PCB and measure the resistance. Wattage = 24 * 24 / resistance UM2+ has 35W heater and has newer firmware with better PID values. Anyway you can simply reduce the PID values bye the ratio of power increase. So if you have a 35W heater then reduce all 3 values (P,I,D) by multiplying them all by 25/35. Or you can run the autotune feature. Cut and paste PID tuning info follows: ================================ ======== 35W nozzle versus 25W nozzle and gcodes Adjusting the 3 PID values is pretty easy - in general you want lower values for higher wattage heater so if your heater is 30% stronger you want to decrease the values by 30%. The easiest way to play with the PID values for the nozzle are to install pronterface (it's free - you don't even really install it, just download it and run it) which is here: http://koti.kapsi.fi/~kliment/printrun/ Then connect a USB from your computer with pronterface to the printer and start it up and connect. It will immediately show the current PID values over on the right side and you can change them. The gcode commands (you can just type in gcode commands in pronterface) are discussed here: http://reprap.org/wiki/PID_Tuning Or just choose among these gcodes: M301 - set PID M303 - autocalibrate PID M500 - save PID values (CRITICAL OR YOU LOSE VALUES WHEN YOU POWER CYCLE) M503 - display PID (and other) values (done automatically on connect by pronterface anyway) above gcodes explained in detail here: http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code

Hey nico - will I see you in Netherlands june/july? I hope so!

That black stuff is probably well-cooked PLA and not related to the teflon part. Make sure it's really a problem: remove nozzle (do you have an olsson block? if not then I don't know how to test this), remove filament from head (but you can leave it in the bowden), remove bowden from head. Let nozzle cool to below 50c, then insert filament through the whole head assembly, teflon part and all and feel how much friction there is through the teflon part.

Shell width *must* be a multiple of nozzle size or you get prints like this. Maybe you could put your entire cura gcode file up somewhere on the web? I don't know how to analyze s3d files - never used it - sorry. I'd like to see the whole gcode file so I can check 10 or 20 things like infill speed, shell size, nozzle size, print speed, layer height, and more.

remy it's time for you to just send it back I think - those photos show perfect looking parts. I suppose you should have photographed the stepper driver chip also but still. Or anyway replace the whole PCB for this particular problem printer. Then when it works you can send back the bad PCB.

Probably but I won't know for a few weeks. Ask me in a few weeks.