gr5

That usually means the head is too far from the glass. This is going to be a tricky print but you can see if it's going wrong on the bottom layer and cancel it and run it over and over until it's good. You need to stop using the normal leveling procedure because you need an accuracy much higher than that can achieve. Start by moving the nozzle closer to the bed - try turning the 3 screws the same amount before you start your print (in other words assume it is level but not at the right height). Practice in your head a few times - if filament isn't sticking or not being squished into the glass you want bed higher so rotate 3 screws counter clockwise as seen from below. Do about 1/4 turn at a time but do a half turn before your start this phone case. If it's squished too much (so badly that the traces are almost invisible or wider than .4mm traces (.5mm is probably fine) or if the feeder is making that click noise where it skips backwards because pressure is too high and then stops extruding for a few traces - then you need to go the other way (move glass down from head so clockwise). Then you have to get more complicated if some corners are perfect but other corners are off. But do it all with the screws. Normally it's best to do a .3mm bottom layer and I recommend that for this print but you can get even better results - really perfect bottom - with .1mm bottom layer. But you will need to get the glass height 3X more accurate! Practice getting a perfect phone case with .3mm before you move on to the much-more-difficult .1mm bottom layer.

ah - here it is: http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/38-designing-for-3d-printing

It's because of the severe overhang - for one layer it's about 85 degrees from vertical. A solution might be to flip it over so the bottom is down as shown in picture but add brim. This way the layers that I assume are visible will have better quality and the ugliness will be hidden on the underside. Or you can do what IrobertI suggests at 3dverstaken (forget the exact name as I'm traveling today) and do a 45 degree initial angle and blend that into a curve. He's got great tips on "design for 3d printing".

I use the same thing as the first 2 posters.

Remove the filament from the printer and twist the last 2 inches off the rest with your hands - see if you can bend it into a 90 degree "L". Then repeat with the black PLA I sent you. Is one of these filaments much more brittle than the other? They should be about the same.

But this is just a theory as I have never seen this type of small amount of excess pla. Now if it were a huge glob of PLA as big as the heater block I think I could explain it.

I had hoped someone else would reply by now. I've never seen this exact problem. First of all you can clean this spring and teflon part easily in boiling water. 100C is much warmer than PLA's glass temperature so it will be soft like chewing gum. And 100C is not hot at all for the other parts. I suspect your problem occurred because the bowden was not seated fully into the white teflon part. When you insert the bowden - look at it from the side view and make sure it goes inside that ring on the top of the white teflon part. At the same time make sure if you lift on the bowden you are pushing down on the bowden-holder-ring.

Those picutres are helpful! The blue lines are what is called "support structure". There may be a bug in where it places support but it looks fine to me. The support only goes under overhangs of a certain angle and the outer edge is "vertical enough" such that it's not sure if it needs it or not - right on the edge - that creates that funny patern. But the blue part should hold up the rest - the layer view doesn't always display support structure well in this latest version of cura but it looks fine in the screen shots you showed me. If you check where the "blue squares" or "support structure" ends vertically it should just almost touch the actual part. If not you might want to turn off brim. Or if you don't want any support then leave brim on and turn off "support" to "none" instead.

when you slice, cura tells you exactly how much filament it will be using. It's also at the top of the generated gcode file in a comment. Is the filament breaking because it is brittle (if so it may break inside the bowden also at the top of the curve) or because it is grinding to dust at the feeder and falling out?

If you watch the first layer where you know pillowing will occur you will see that some of the strands snap/break/ So definitely having thicker layers I would expect makes for a thicker and stronger strand. I doubt your fan is worse than any other UMO fan but that is the single most important fix for pillowing. Many people do 2 fans on the UMO to make it more similar to UM2. I didn't find that necessary and still use stock fan and stock fan shroud.

If you want extra high quality, 50mm/sec is much too fast - that was probably a contributor to the stringing - it's printing at 50mm/sec and then has to stop suddenly. I usually print 35mm/sec for high quality. Regarding filament quality - it seems to me that the brand isn't as critical in your case - white is just a difficult color to create and hence lots of additives. So any other color from the same brand will probably print better. This is just my personal theory - not sure if this theory about filament manufacturers is true. Having said that I print lots of white parts. .04 is just insanely thin. You may end up with better quality (and obviously get your part much sooner!) with .1mm.

I gave you a roll of black with carbon - remember?

Post picture maybe? If it's only a little underextrusion it's usually best to just increase the flow by 10 to 50%. You can do that while it is printing and see the results relatively quickly.

This is a good test and very simple:

I don't understand. I think you should add an arrow to the photo. And also post a photo of the model in "normal view" but shown from below the bed. Looking up at the bottom of the part from below.

printedSolid will have a booth at makerFaire NYC this coming weekend.

Actually I'm hearing tons of reports of brittle PLA this month. Something strange going on with some of the batches of filament - not lasting as long as normal. Try printing with that black PLA I gave you maybe? Or order a spool from printedSolid.com.

Another common issue this month seems to be filament breaking up into smaller pieces inside the bowden - is that happening to anyone here (filament getting brittle)? Because if so that would explain a lot (why it stops working but move material works fine).

Actually I often lie about nozzle size going smaller (tell cura I have a .35 nozzle when in fact it is .4) but never the other direction! Not a good idea. I can elaborate if needed.

You should not increase the nozzle size in Cura unless you also change nozzles on the printer. If you have a UMO you can get a larger nozzle for well under $10 in usa (I assume 10 euros elsewhere) and if you have a UM2 you need to learn about the "olsson block" first before you can change your nozzle (google it). What country do you live in? And which printer do you have?

pink unicorn is now called version 15.06 or newer.

tinkerGnome's version of marlin lets you set all those fixed positions - the position where you load filament, the position where it primes, and a few others.

Some filaments just don't do quite as well. Adding a few more layers should do the trick. Lowering the temp to 200C *might* help. Going to .2mm *might* help (strings less likely to break when it lays down the next layer). But the safest thing to do is "more fan", "more infill" and "more top/bottom layers".

You probably don't need that support - just printing 2 of them will make a huge difference as one can cool while the other is printing. Make sure you print them in "all-at-once" mode and not "one-at-a-time" mode.

heater error means the PID controller for the nozzle was at 100% for 30 seconds and the nozzle did not heat by at least 10C. So for example if you were in the stage where you were heating the nozzle it should be at 100% for more than 30 seconds but the temp should increase. Or if you are almost at goal temp but a bit low (say 1C low) for a very long time (say a minute) then the I term in PID will try to keep increasing the heater power until it's at 100% - if it's at 100% for an additional 30 seconds and the nozzle just won't get up to goal temp then you get heater error in this case also. It is most often caused if the heater or the temp sensor fall out of the print head - meaning they are no longer coupled (sending power to heater doesn't heat the sensor) or if the heater just isn't getting power. If the sensor has a bad connection then the temp should read something completely wrong (e.g. 0C or 300C) when at room temperature. It of course can also be caused if the fan shroud is touching the nozzle block as you mentioned.