gr5

What about when you do "move material" from advanced menu?

The blue lines are support structure to support the gap between the build plate and where the part starts. The yellow squares are caused by infill not set at 100%. Most parts don't need more than 10% infill as most of the strength comes from the walls.

This is called stringing. Usually al you have to do is check "retraction enabled". Not sure if that is enabled for you or not. If that already was checked then also make sure your move speed (non extruding moves) is a high speed - at least 150mm/sec. Also white filaments tend to leak more than other colors - try lowering the temperature by about 10C. So if you were printing at 210C try 200C. Also maybe increase your reraction distance. The default on the ultipanel is 4.5mm - try going up to 5mm or even possibly 5.5mm. I would play with these last two parameters (temperature and retraction distance) while it is printing - in the tune menu. You should be able to reduce the stringing by quite a bit but you probably can never get it completely gone with white pla. But it will come off with almost no effort using your fingers or using a candle flame.

Cura does something like this already - it's called "lay flat" I believe.

The feeder usually only does that if something is bad at the head - if the filament won't move the feeder just keeps grinding away regardless and then you have 2 problems - one at the head and one at the feeder. Make sure the feeder is on the least possible tension setting (white indicator part at the top of the slot). You can get this by printing too cold and too fast (e.g. layers too thick). What temp, speed, and layer height were you printing at. You can also get this when you first load the filament or many other ways.

The firmware hasn't been changed much in the last 6 months so anything 15.04.* or newer (including the beta which should have the same firmware) is all good. Although I recommend tinkergnome's version of the firmware.

I'm only certain that on my machine which has very old firmware there is some serious bugs in G10 and G11 that come up when you start a new print. By the time you do the second set of retract/unretract it works fine but the damage is often already done. Also I'm certain that those bugs were addressed (but I never verified that they were truly fixed). There also is/was a bug regarding how far it retracts at the end of the print versus how much it primes at the start. This I believe was also fixed over a year ago.

It's done that way to save time. Less travel. you can always add a dummy tower at each end and throw that away later but it might be nice to have it print in the same order every time instead of moving to the closest object next.

If you are in a rush simply run the model through the netfabb website - it's free, takes a few seconds and fixes 90% of the problems with models to make them printable.

Knock it out with the head? It depends how tall the object is. I tried this with bracelets but the nozzle melted the bracelet in the 3 seconds it took to knock it off so I modified the head and gave it a big plow. like a snow plow. But if the object is taller then it might work. I recommend blue tape or at least no glue because you don't want the part to stick too well that you can't knowck it off.

the filament can get stuck on a few edges in the head before it gets to the nozzle. It's best to cut the filament at an angle (to a point). Anyway try move-material in menu and move it up and down a few times and it should make it past the bad spot. If not remove it completely with "change filament" and sharpen to a point.

I'm not sure that grub screw is even necessary. Did you uncover the electronics board under the printer? Usually if there is a problem with the heater itself (not the sensor) then it's most often right there. There is a "terminal block" where 6 wires can connect (for the 3 heaters). The one you care about is the first one (heater 1). If there is blackness/brownness or charring in the area then it's probably not a good connection. The screw or clam that holds the wire in place is probably not holding it in place.

The red layer was .2mm thick and a complete print. The white part was a completely separate print and the bottom layer is .3mm thick so it flows over the top of the red - it's more filament than needed but it just somehow works.

Also sketchup sucks for most 3d printing design but for letters like this, sketchup is great. You can choose any font on your computer.

Consider rotating the part by 90 degrees such that you print the bottom of the text first and the top last. This will GREATLY increase the resolution in one axis which isn't perfect but helps a lot.

The nozzle moves into the print? Not sure - again I would install printrun (link in my prev post) and tell the bed to move 10mm and see if it actually moves 10mm and in the correct direction. If your steps/mm is off e.g. by 2X then parts will be twice as tall or half as tall as desired.

Yes, my kit has the dual bowden thing for about $9. You have to be careful that the inner bowden doesn't slide out through the feeder on retraction so I have a 3d printed part that takes care of this - photos on my store. I only have one 1.75mm bowden at this time. No one has ever ordered a 1.75mm kit despite heavy interest (none as of september 18 2015). Again I only have one kit with bowden - the other kits are without bowden. I have the conversion kit up on my store now (for usa,mexico,canada customers only - other's need to go to 3dsolex.com): http://gr5.org/store/ It's meant for people who have hundreds of dollars of old 1.75mm filament. I doubt it prints any better but we shall see. I only know of two people who think the 1.75mm *might* be better. I'm waiting for better tests and more tests. I have not tried 1.75mm (I don't have any filament).

Next time try to stop it from printing much sooner. At this point your filament is probably ground to dust in the feeder so you will have to fix that issue first. Not sure why it stopped. It looks like you have 2 different colors though? White then gray? I'm thinking the gray filament never loaded properly. I always cut the tip of the filament to a point before loading - you probably have the filament stuck just at the lip of the white part (the teflon part) inside the head. After fixing the other issue try "move material" and move filament up and down until it gets past that ledge and it starts extruding. Extrude for a while to get any burnt PLA out of the nozzle. Now to your other issue - likely ground filament. First turn off power and pull firmly out the bottom. If the entire filament comes out then yay - just cut it off and throw it away and reload (but now with sharpened tip). If the filament breaks at the feeder then remove bowden from feeder: remove the horse shoe shaped clip, push down hard on the outer white clip and then lift firmly on the bowden (the clear tube) (again this is at the feeder, not the head). Do not lift on the bowden untill you can get the clip to go down otherwise the metal blades in the bowden holder will scratch up your bowden (not a disaster but you can only do this so many times - if you scrape badly you can always cut the last 2mm off the end of the bowden). Now you should be able to pull the filament up through the feeder and then out through the tube - throw it away and put it back together and start over.

Lower acceleration will wreck the quality of the Ultimaker and you will essentially have a makerbot. Lower acceleration means you have the head and therefore the extruder slowing down at every corner. The feeder doesn't like to slow down and speed up - there is quite a pressure build up in the bowden and in the head and slowing down will therefore cause the printer to overextrude for a split second and then accelerating out of the corner you will get underextrusion for a split second. This gives you knobby corners and other lower quality.

Tighten the pulleys - takes 5 minutes.

Sketchup is great for visual models because the eye can't see through walls but it is horrible for physical (printable models or for say simulations of stress points or temperature flow) models. For example if you look at the master bed in xray view on either side of the bed are these boxes (night stands). The part that touches the floor and wall are both red (extra internal wall). The one touching the floor you can just leave alone and is probably fine but the one that touches the wall is a problem - you have to delete those.

Okay - just now I looked more closely at other issues - I saw your walls stop for a while - on the scale of an actual apartment - the walls go up about a foot and then stop for a few feet and then come back. This is caused by beds and couches that are touching the outer wall yet also have a wall. So you have walls *inside* your solids which is impossible. You need to remove all those inner walls on the backs of all the couches so that there is one continuous solid space. cura gets very confused by those impossible walls *inside* things. In xray view you see all these errors as red - get rid of all the vertical red planes (horizontal red planes not a problem.

I looked at your stl in cura "xray view" and there was a LOT of red. Yikes. red is bad - it means you have holes - or more likely in this case - extra walls *inside* the model which can confuse cura. Fortunately most of them seem to be horizontal walls which cura will ignore if it's on a layer that is slightly above or below a slice which is probably 99% of the time. Also using "fix horrible type A" should fix most of the other errors. But you might want to avoid sketchup if you can - or pass your model through the free website at netfabb where it repairs your stl. Anyway... to your question. I didn't see any support at all - I turned on suppport "touching buildplate" and saw nothing. I'm using cura 15.04 (not into that crazy beta 15.06 - maybe that's the issue). Your part is very small - about 1cm. That small all the walls are too thin to print with .4mm nozzle. You can get a smaller nozzle (google olsson block) or you can scale it up. I scaled it up 10X and it looks much better but still - no support. So not sure what you mean. A screenshot from cura with arrow pointing to the issue might help.

I have done some analasis on what the power supply can do. 10 Watts will be fine as far as power consumption. You can go a bit higher. But you won't be able to print ABS - not sure if that is even enough power to get to 60C unfortunately. yes it's just a pt100 on the bed also. And you can use normal solder (unlike the temp sensor in the head) as it will never get above 200C (of course!). Labern - I need to talk to you offline... will message you.