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First and foremost - check that the front fan of the 3 print head fans is spinning when you get a printcore above 60C. So you can just go to the middle menu, click on the filament, click "..." in corner and click move. Then don't move, just wait for temp to reach 60C. Then open front door and make sure the fan is spinning. When it isn't, this can cause underextrusion. Then try swapping out the printcore. Even before I read that you have had temp errors in the past. There are many possible failure modes including issues with teflon, nozzle, and temp sensor. The most common error with the temp sensor is a wire/connection that has some extra resistance. This causes the temp to read high which means the printer heats to a lower temp. This causes lots of underextrusion. print cores are consider consumables like filament. You should be spending much less on printcores than filament but still, they need replacing but just do a test by swapping left/right if they are both AA 0.4, or if the right core is BB then every printer comes with 2 AA 0.4 and a BB 0.4 so find one of those extras. Thirdly, test the feeder. There are parts in the feeder that can cause issues. Or you could just clean it. It's pretty easy to disasemble. There are videos and pictures at ultimaker support. Anyway - how to test the feeder - go back to that same MOVE option and this time move the filament a little and fight that movement by grabbing the filament just below the feeder and fight it hard. The feeders can pull about 15 pounds before slipping (about 7kg). Anything under 9 pounds I consider a fail although it will still print okay down to about 5 pounds. 10 pounds is good enough. Hopefully you don't have the material station as then this test is much more difficult.

Oh an easy question! Yay! So this is from memory but I think it's under "maintenance" somewhere and then "calibrate lift switch" (the switch that lifts the right side print core). The procedure is extremely simple and quick. At some point you just push the print head around until the lift switch is in that slot and click a button. That's it. Do it a few times and test as it's trickier than you think but it's pretty darn simple. There is also something called "reset to factory defaults". Something like that. That resets *all* of these positions. I don't know how this could have been messed up other than a bit got flipped somewhere so I'm wondering how many other things are messed up on the "hard drive" (it's a solid state drive). I wouldn't do "reset to factory defaults" unless there are other issues because then you lose all kinds of useful information and have to calibrate lots of other things. Occasionally, on these printers with SSD, you have to reinstall the firmware. Yes the SSD remaps all bad blocks but it doesn't know what the old values were before they got corrupted so you have to reinstall the firmware occasionally. Everytime you update the firmware it also reinstalls all the firmware and will do so into the remapped "good" blocks on the SSD.

In your screenshot there are two gray dropdown boxes. Use the lower one. Choose any printer you want. The slicing isn't a lot different. If you know what kind of printer he has use that. The biggest difference is that some printers will print 2 filaments at the same time (two nozzles, two printheads, or two print cores). Also consider watching a few youtube videos about using cura. I don't have any recommendations.

It's called a prime tower. I recommend you don't disable it. Everytime the printer switches to the other printcore, on the way back to printing, it stops at the prime tower and extrudes a bit to "prime the pump" as they say. You can print without the tower but quality will go down a bit. There will be a little stringy sausage bit attached to one of those 3 parts - one sausage on each layer where it changed printcores. The tower stops when the support material stops. Or you could use the primary printcore to make the support and then the prime tower will not be printed at all.

See? I knew it. No one wants to do the oil. 🙂 sad.

Just heat the nozzle to about 120C in the menu on the printer. Open the door and clean with a tissue or paper towel. More importantly - this is called a "head flood" and you got the most mild version ever but it can be a disaster. It's never happened to me but it happens a lot - especially to people who have printed fewer than 100 prints. The fix is to get your parts to stick better to the bed. Ultimaker has much advice on this. I have a whole video on this on youtube. The main tricks: squish, temperature, brim, rounded corners, glue. I talk about each of these for many minutes as they are complicated and it's good to understand. squish, temp, brim are set by the ABS profile by default. Don't skip brim if your parts aren't sticking (I don't use brim except very rarely for the most difficult of prints). So if you haven't messed with profiles you probably just need to worry about the last issue, glue. I recommend Magigoo. They have a product specifically for ABS. Get that. It will save you major headache (no head flood). If you have 20 minutes, this video will teach you a lot:

Are you using scroll wheel to zoom in/out? Are you using +/- keys (either on main keyboard or number pad - both work) to zoom in/out?

Without a video of the bug happening, or a way to make it happen guaranteed, and without many many people experiencing the problem (I have never seen it), I don't think this will get fixed. Maybe you can get it to happen in a video? That will provide a huge clue to the developers. Also cross link: link from here to the git issue. Link from the git issue to here.

I offer this advice often but most people refuse to follow it because it just sounds wrong. But it's very easy to do and it works great. People think the oil will get in the print and mess it up. The opposite is true. The print comes out much better. Add a drop of mineral oil to the filament below the feeder. one drop per meter of filament is more than enough. Do the first drop before you insert the filament to get oil in the bowden from the very begining. Ideally you will see thousands of tiny drops of oil in the bowden. Every hour or so - or every meter of filament printed, add another drop. With flexible filament you can unspool a meter and let it hang down below the printer if the printer is on the back edge of a table. That way you can add one drop and it slides down the filament to the U curve at the bottom. Alternatively, 3dsolex sells teflon bowden tubes for UM2 (and UM3/S3/S5/S7). I don't like the teflon tubes because you can't see inside the tube very well - they are more white than clear and you can see if the tube has filament or not but you can't see the teeth marks on the filament or other potential problems (chewed, cracked filament). Most people love the teflon bowdens. 3dsolex calls it "super slip" bowdens.

Cute bot. Did you have a question?

yay!!

Das Verziehen des Bettes wird durch nicht haftende Teile verursacht. Ein beheiztes Bett sorgt dafür, dass sich die Teile weniger verziehen. Nicht mehr. Stellen Sie mit einem Thermometer sicher, dass das Bett über 52 ° C liegt. 60C ist ideal für PLA. Es hört sich so an, als würden Sie Klebstoff und Wärme verwenden. Als nächstes müssen Sie das Filament mehr in das Druckbett drücken. Passen Sie die Nivellierung an, indem Sie die Nivellierungsschrauben drehen, sodass sich das Druckbett beim Drucken der ersten Schicht näher an der Düse befindet. Je mehr Sie quetschen, desto besser klebt es.

I think you want full fan with pla/pha. You know you have too much fan if you are getting bad layer adhesion. I doubt it will be an issue. For PLA variants, more fan is more better.

It's kind of a long video but if you follow these advices you will have a new problem - getting parts to come off the glass.

Second choice material would be nylon as it's tough as hell and even though technically it's the same "strength", because it is more flexible it can handle probably 5X the torque and 5X the load. But then you need to worry about heated chamber (cover your um2 with a cardboard box), drying the filament for 24 hours just before printing, and layer "grain". And also your white teflon part in the um2 would only last about 300 hours of printing at nylon temps whereas with PLA it might last 1000 hours. Those white teflon parts are cheap but it's annoying to take the head apart and change it all the time. Back to part alterations (click drawing for higher res). I'd round those corners pointed to by green arrow as structurally they do nothing. They might also be sharp. I'd add some triangular braces as shown with green triangle. Such that screw head fits between 2 triangular braces. And tooling to tighten the screw has to fit. I'd thicken the red hashed area as much as possible so the part can handle the torque when that paddle hits a sack of sugar. Can you double the height? Is there room? And finally I'd strengthen the "paddle" itself with either traingular braces as shown - but thicker - like 4mm thick. Or I'd just make the whole back of that paddle solid. This is designed to be made from sheet metal bent and then welded to the other piece. With 3d printing just make it solid (well with 30% infill inside that paddle). If you can make the red hash mark area surface move up (and/or the bottom move down) then maybe you can add a larger washer to distribute forces more. Currently the bolt head surface area is pretty small. Lots of forces there. I'd be tempted to use some sheet metal with holes in it and melt it into the plastic to distribute the forces among the plastic. On the side of the part with the hole through it - the right most surface in the below image. I guess I'd see if this breaks first and *where* it breaks.

I'd go with PLA since you have a UM2. If you print with PLA you don't have to worry about layer "grain". I'm more concertned with... well I don't know how to say it. I'll draw it.

You can split it up and bolt it together which is a great option, especially if only a portion breaks then you only have to reprint half. Or you can enable support - since this is a factory setting, it doesn't have to be pretty. When you remove the support, you get "ugly" surfaces where the support was attached. But if you don't care about that then you can just enable support. And/or put the surfaces that need support away from surfaces you need to be smooth. Your first photo is helpful but the second photo - I can't make heads nor tails out of that, lol. Oh wait - is it that small part just to the right of the right orange thing? There appears to be 4 pairs of parts that are similar to your drawing where one item in each pair is roughly mirror image from the other. It looks like orange "bags" of sugar and defective/leaking ones are pushed off the edge with the part you want to 3d print. I'd print it such that "plane1" represents the glass and just use default supports. If it fits on the printer in that orientation.

I believe values under 8 are a "pass". Your results look like normal variation. Watch the active leveling. There are 3 phases and several things to check. First it should do I believe the right nozzle? The bed goes slowly up and stops within a second after hitting the bed. Then if that works it does the other nozzle. Then it does a whole bunch of points more rapidly - up to around 24 depending how big your print is. So: Does it never touch the nozzle to the glass? Failure mode 1. Does it touch the glass but keeps going for a few more seconds? Failure mode 2. Does it do the two slow touches with the same core? Failure mode 3. Does it switch cores but do failure mode 1 or 2? Does it switch cores but gets an error about different heights? failure mode 4 Does it then do a lot of fast touches but fails after that? Failure mode 5. There are completely different solutions depending which mode you got. Mode 1 is the most annoying and caused usually by noise and usually includes readings > 8 and you can try to fix by unplugging the middle fan or replacing with another but you don't have readings > 8. Failure mode 1 also can be because one of the wires fell off connecting to the capacitive sensor (that lower pcb in the hinged door).

@bacon - do you work for a reseller maybe? Or do you have a client who hires you for other stuff and they figure you are an S5 expert as well? 🙂

There is also an option to do variable layer thickness where it does thinner layers on surfaces like this. The feature is called "adaptive layers".

You could just short out that transistor. I think that is what I would do. Then the print head fan will just always be on whenever the power is on. It is noisy so that would be a little annoying but it's a quick, cheap hack while you wait for a replacement board I suppose? Just short TP1 to ground. Or j1 pin 2 to ground. Or short it at Q1 but leave base of q1 open. I'm not saying the issue is 100% Q1. It could be that D1 is shorted out as well. But I'd say 90% chance it's either a broken wire or Q1. Q1 takes the most abuse. I guess I would test D1 as well to make sure it doesn't conduct when the red wire of the meter goes to 5V and the ground wire of the meter goes to TP1. If that is not a complete open (same as air) then I'd remove D1 before shorting tp1 to ground (otherwise you have a short from 5V to ground and something may get destroyed).

Here's the schematic and also the layout that shows the traces and the parts locations. This is for the Ultimaker 3 but this board is basically identical to the S5 but the S5 board is about 10mm wider as the S5 has a wider print head because it has larger rods going through the head so you need to make room for that. https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker3/tree/master/PCB files/2012-K Print head PCB I think every part e.g. q1, q2, q3 is in the same location and serves the same purpose. I've used the UM3 schematic to solder wires to the S5 board so I know they are very very similar. Now that I think about it I probably do have an S5 schematic but I don't know where. Instructions plus pictures and video for taking the S5 print head apart: https://ultimakernasupport.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/360039150672-Printhead You can also choose to order just this circuit board. Contact your reseller. It looks like you are in Canada so the best place there is probably shop3d.ca - contact them to find the part number for the circuit board in the print head for the S5 and you can order it through them. It may take a few weeks to get it though! BY THE WAY - this fan only comes on when either core gets above 60C. Did you heat the print core up before deciding it's broken?

oh that sucks. Are you good with soldering surface mount? I can post the schematic. The controller is in the print head itself. There's lots of great explanations out there with pictures of how to take it apart and get it together again. I think it's a darlington transistor - I think maybe a 3 pin device if I remember right. I'm guessing with the fan stuck for so many days/weeks/whatever that maybe the transistor blew. This is not common on the S5 but was common on earlier printers like the UMO (ultimaker original). I'll go find schematics and so on...

Do you have the latest firmware on your S3? I believe some network improvements were included a year or two ago in the S3 firmware. I believe, in the menu somewhere on the S3, there is an option for something like "digital factory reset" or "network reset". Something like that (and they changed the name of the option a few years ago I think). That resets a lot of things - not just the network connections. This can often fix issues like this. Also in cura you can manually tell Cura to search for and reconnect to your machine. If you are using digital factory I don't think it does a local LAN connection but connects out on a server on the internet somewhere.

@benjamins94 - How often does this happen? It seems like it has such an easy workaround that maybe most people won't care? anyway, I recommend you create an "issue" on github here: https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/issues It's free but you have to create a github account. Please include that log file and a link to that video. And a link to this topic. And please mention that the video is only 15 seconds and makes things clear to get more developers to think about this issue. It wasn't clear to me that the problem was unrelated to settings but that just clicking any setting checkbox and reversing that was the fix. I don't know if I was a sloppy reader or what but make that as simple and clear as possible.