gr5

4.8 suports it - do "file" "save project as..." or something similar. Key word "project". That will include your machine settings, profile, settings overrides, STL(s), positioning, scaling, etc of stl. There is also possibly a different way to save your STL but don't let that confuse you. I use project files to save all my settings so I can either review them or more likely if I am printing something similar I pick an older project that worked well and use that project file as a starting basis.

I think @LePaul may have printed with concrete. He works for a university and has printed a full scale boat I think? But maybe that was metal? I forget - I have vague memories. But he has certainly done some major cura hacks. He hasn't posted here in a year but I can get you his email if you want. But try direct messaging him. He might get that as an email. Click on his name and go to his profile and message him directly. I've met him in person and we are facebook friends. If you do create a profile and/or machine profile it would be nice if you could submit it to the cura team for addition to the printers in the cura list.

https://ultimakernasupport.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/115004226246-Printhead

3dsolex has a conversion kit for the UM2. Really you only need the teflon part. If you can get a 1.75mm teflon part meant for UM2 from 3dsolex.com that will work better than the "out of the box" solution. The UM2+ feeder works great with 1.75 but not the UM2 "regular" feeder. I recommend you get the teflon part if you will be doing a lot of 1.75 as you can get a clog otherwise. And retraction isn't quite as good without the teflon.

"C:\Program Files\Ultimaker Cura 4.13.1\CuraEngine.exe" slice -p -j "[...]\CustomPrinter.print.def.json" -l "[...]\SampleModel.stl" -o "[...]\SampleModel.gcode" 2> "[...]\Log.log" did you really put in the [...] parts or is that just redacted for privacy? I guess it's a stupic question because you wouldn't be able to load the gcode file if you had the [...] in there. never mind. @ahoeben - did he do the correct command line and does his json file look correct? It's not taking his nozzle size. @mkutvytskyi - I don't know much about using cura from the command line. I know linux and programming but not cura json files. - I'd try removing the space from the extruder 0 filename - I'd try to set the line width more explicitly versus just setting the nozzle size and hoping the line width follows (in cura UI there is no nozzle width mentioned and it's ignored anyway and "line width" is used). I don't know how to do that in the json file. - I'd put some other parameter in there like making layer height 1 meter to see if the file is even being read or if it is being ignored. - I'd put the files through a json tester which will let you know if you have a misplaced bracket or comma - there are free web pages where you can drag and drop your json file and it will report syntax errors. ahoeben is much more of an expert and hopefully he can help you. I'll tag someone else as well: @nallath

Please post your command line argument exactly how you used it and also post the override file you used.

It's related to either "nozzle size" or "line width". In the second image your line width is about 35mm and in the first your line width seems to be about something more reasonable. Around .35mm. Or maybe you really do have a 35mm nozzle? Are you printing full scale houses? the other parameter to look at carefully is layer height. How many layers are in each file.

Where did this $3k come from? What? Are you going to have to pay $3k for this? I'm confused. So it's a pretty nice printer. NFC - don't need it. My UM3 currently has nothing plugged into the NFC connector and it works fine. That feature scans RFID codes on filament spools but only for UM brand filament... anyway my point is don't worry about that. power supply - what did you get exactly? You need one hell of a beast of a power supply. You need 24 volts and it is a LOT of current. So much that it's not unusual for the actual power supplies to balk. But only after you power up the heated bed which isn't an issue for you. yet. So which power supply did you get? Officially I've seen these on UM3: GST220A24-R7B GS220A24-R7B I'd get the GS and not the GST as the GS puts out just a little more power. But either should work. As far as hours used in a school environment... odds are it was not used much. When it boots you can check how much those "nozzles" (they are called cores) were used to get an idea. Well I'd spend $10 or so for the olimex-serial-F cable and connect that up to see where bootup is failing. One failure mode is that the "hard drive" on these things gets a bad block and all you have to do is reformat everything and they usually recover nicely (and map the bad blocks safely away from future use). Or you could try the recover procedure if you don't want to spend the $10. You may have to do the recovery procedure anyway. But getting the $10 cable can tell you if it is failing bootup due to communication with screen, communication with print head, or something else. Anyway recovery procedure is discussed here: https://support.makerbot.com/s/article/1877624822572 And I have information about the olimex cable and how to use it here: gr5.org/unbricking/

Si vous n'aimez pas la qualité de la couche inférieure, je suppose que vous avez nivelé trop loin du verre. Il suffit de tourner les 3 boutons de manière égale pour rapprocher le verre de la buse. Essayez 1/4 de tour à la fois pendant qu'il imprime la couche inférieure et tournez les 3 de la même quantité. Si je ne sais pas si j'ai nivelé trop haut ou trop bas, je pousse simplement vers le haut ou vers le bas sur le lit pendant qu'il imprime la couche inférieure, puis une fois que je connais la réponse, je tourne simplement les 3 boutons. C'est facile de paniquer pendant l'impression mais on s'améliore à chaque fois et maintenant je n'y pense même plus.

Si vous désactivez la mise à niveau active, vous devez effectuer une mise à niveau manuelle. As-tu fais ça?

D'accord - cette erreur particulière que je n'ai pas vue. Je pense que vous avez reçu de très mauvais conseils. Je ne suis pas un expert. Mais je suis ingénieur électricien. Ainsi, la carte qu'ils veulent que vous remplaciez ne comporte que 2 fils et une plaque. Une façon de fabriquer un condensateur consiste à utiliser deux plaques plates proches l'une de l'autre. Plus les plaques sont grandes et rapprochées, plus la capacité est élevée. Dans la carte de circuit imprimé de la tête d'impression se trouve un circuit oscillateur très sensible à la capacité. Lorsque la capacité change, la fréquence de l'oscillateur change. ainsi, lorsque les deux plaques (celle de la tête et celle de l'imprimante) se rapprochent, cela peut être détecté par le changement de fréquence. Si vous ne branchez pas du tout la plaque, l'oscillateur fonctionne toujours mais la fréquence d'oscillation ne change pas lorsque le lit monte et descend. Cependant, vous obtenez une erreur plus grave. Peut-être que l'ordinateur ne peut pas du tout communiquer avec la tête d'impression. Je peux donc penser à deux choses à corriger : 1) Le circuit imprimé de la tête d'impression (pas la plaque que vous avez). C'est là que se trouve l'oscillateur. 2) Un peu plus probable : le câble qui entre dans la tête d'impression. Lors de l'impression, ce câble est tiré et peut sortir du connecteur. Si vous retirez les deux vis arrière sur le dessus de la tête d'impression, il y a un morceau de plastique qui se détache. Essayez d'appuyer fermement sur ce connecteur et relancez le test du capteur. Je ne suis pas un expert en la matière. J'ai des amis et aussi des personnes sur le forum qui ont eu des problèmes avec le nivellement actif mais votre erreur semble différente. Une autre solution consiste simplement à désactiver le nivellement actif.

So what value does it display when you do the sensor test? Is the number above or below 8?

This is just simple underextrusion. Maybe only 30%? It's hard to say. Meaning it's putting out 70% of what it should be putting out. It could be so many issues - pretty much all of them are hardware related. But maybe read this thread: That person has the same problem but much worse. Maybe you can do the same calibration procedure and hopefully that will fix your mild underextrusion.

Through ethernet, Cura will only connect to Ultimaker products and also it can connect to octoprint. But that's it.

Ender5! I've seen this with Ultimaker 2 printers sometimes. It's the same reason. I've explained the problem in careful detail but the quick summary is that it is flipping bits. So is this an SD card or a USB cable print? The problem is that the printer is occasionally reading one bad bit in the gcode and it does large movements and what you describe is exactly the most common symptom (there are other symptoms). So if you have an SD card reader then take that apart and clean it very well. Also clean the SD card and maybe try a different card. If instead you print through USB cable then try a different cable or more importatnly try a different computer or different port on that computer. Another potential fix is that many printers have ribbon cables that connect USB and/or SD card to the main computer. Try re-routing those (even moving just a few mm might help) to avoid "signal cross talk".

Il y a un test rapide du capteur dans le système de menu. Si vous exécutez ce test et que vous disposez d'un micrologiciel récent datant de moins d'un an, vous devriez également obtenir un numéro à l'écran avec l'erreur. Obtenez-vous un numéro? Quel est le numéro? Je pense que les valeurs> 8 sont des échecs. Un problème courant qui conduit à un nombre élevé est que les 3 ventilateurs (même éteints) peuvent agir comme des antennes radio. Si vous n'obtenez aucun numéro, c'est probablement quelque chose de plus grave, comme un fil cassé. Si vous obtenez un nombre comme 15, je débrancherais les 3 ventilateurs et je verrais si vous obtenez <8 dans ce test de capteur. Je pense qu'il faut démonter la tête pour débrancher ces câbles. Pardon.

Also most klipper users don't have UM2 style bowden feeders where the hot end and cold end are about a half meter apart. This means a lot of the "advance" settings and jerk and acceleration settings might be so far out from the most common printers that no one will know how to set it up or the software might not even be veryl helpful at calibrating subtle improvements for a UM2 style printer. I don't know. um2 style printers have super light print heads which can accelrate at about 5 to 9 meters/s/s. Most printers struggle with 1 m/s/s if they have a moving bed and 3m/s/s if they don't. This changes a lot! Also because the um2 bowden tube is so long there is a huge delay/spring effect - when you speed up the feeder, it takes a while for the pressure in the head to restabilize at the new pressure. When the hot and cold end are both in the print head (more common) this delay is tiny and yet is still compensated for by the "pressure advance" algorithms which are greatly improved in klipper. But I don't know if they can extend from a typical delay of a 2 inch bowden to a 27 inch bowden.

I've read a lot about klipper but have not used it. And I know it is rapidly growing in popularity. But I don't know much about the hardware. I have "heard" that Rspberry pi's went from about $25 each to crazy prices lately. I know klipper will run on beagle bone black as well but I think Raspberry pi is probably the most common solution along with some kind of stepper controller board. I think it is immensely easier to go with duet but more fun to go with klipper. Duet is very easy to setup. Klipper software is pretty easy but I don't know about setting up hardware for use with klipper.

Also try turning off/pausing all security software for a moment to see if that is blocking execution. Some people have also had luck instead "running as admin" because somehow the install ended up putting some critical files in a protected folder.

Another test is to fight the extruder. if you back it up a little so there isn't any pressure in the nozzle and then hold it back with one hand while making it go forward (or just be active) with the controller then a good extruder can push with about 5 pounds of force. It sounds like yours is only pushing with 1 pound of force. This just rules out that the problem is related to the hot end. It could still be many possibilities.

Your newer photo is still showing classic underextrusion. Greg could be right in that you need a replacement stepper controller board. Or you may have some other serious hardware issue. You could try making the board exposed to the air and have a fan blow on it. Hard. If that helps even just for the first 3 layers then that is an indication your stepper driver is overheating. Or you could look at the 4 stepper drivers with a thermal camera or IR temp sensor.

Did you see the scaling thing working? Did you understand about the plate?

Wow. complicated. A few things that can go wrong if you don't have the settings just right. But I know you can get amazing results if you follow all the instructions.

I heard they moved the scaling feature in Cura that is used by the ultrafuse profile. I don't know what it's called. I don't think I can run versions of Cura newer than 5.0 (that's what I'm using now) so I can't look for it myself.