gr5

Atomic method: https://ultimaker.com/en/community/view/5118-blocked-nozzle#reply-34691 And on verkstan (just use google - not so hard!) - I think this explanation is better than mine: http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/10-the

You may have a nozzle clog but maybe not. There's lots of things keeping the material from coming out. For example if the tip of the filament is flat as it enters the print head it can get caught up on a ridge. Or the feeder may have ground down the filament. Or there could be some material in the tube and the filament is stuck in the tube (that was the most recent issue for me). heat the nozzle to 180C then cut power and try to pull the filament out back through the feeder a few inches and see if it's damaged where it was in the feeder or if you can't pull it out because it's stuck in the bowden tube. If that works fine then shove it back in and look for filament coming out the still-hot nozzle.

I don't understand your question - and this is really an ultimaker forum, but here's a description of the RUMBA board; http://reprap.org/wiki/RUMBA

This is a new one for me. Sometimes the build plate gets stuck on the spool holder. Do you mean it falls 9mm? Or it falls down to the 9mm position? I wish you had a picture or a video. :( Is there also a 9mm gap in Cura in slice view?

If you want to tweak Marlin you can get the source code and build your own - but start with the official version for the UM2 here: https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2Marlin

The rotation is very small - did you feel the feeder motor for an entire minute of printing to make sure? It's possible that your flow rate is set to 1 (1%) and it is moving 100X slower than it's supposed to. This would be a Cura setting if your cura machine settings specify "rep rap" mode (not default, not likely, and not recommended) or that could be your material settings on the UM2 (that should be where your flow settings are). In the later case you can just check in the TUNE menu after it starts printing. A video of the first minute of printing that shows the head moving then pan the camera to the feeder for a while then the last few seconds back to showing the whole printer. That might help us narrow down the issue.

FYI, Cura version numbers are actually "year.month".

The printer should start moving immediately (other than heating up nozzle and bed) even if there are "empty" layers. It doesn't matter how large the file is because the Arduino computer on the UM2 can only load a very small part of the file at a time anyway so it doesn't preload the file or anything like that. Did you use any kind of plugin? There are plugins that purposely pause the printer or tell it to sleep for some number of seconds. Check that all your plugins are disabled as by default Cura pulls in old plugins from previous slicing jobs so any plugins you added on a previous slice job will show up with the same settings even if that was meant to be a one-off.

This is common if your print head is just slightly too far from the glass. The PLA won't stick to the glass. A 30 second video of the first layer printing would help but I recommend you simply skip the leveling step and rotate all 3 bed screws 1/2 turn counter clockwise (looking from below) such that the glass is slightly closer to the nozzle. You want the plastic squished somewhat onto the warm glass. Glass should be 50C to 60C for PLA.

usually my advice is to print cooler and slower. If you want high quality for a print of this small size which can print pretty fast, I would do 0.1mm layers 20mm/sec 200C. And only if you like the result go down to .06mm layers. But your models are messed up. Instead of a single solid part your model is hundreds of small parts so close together they are touching but still separate. So you need to somehow fix that first.

I've printed 76MB gcode files so that's not your issue. Could it be that the file didn't fully transfer to SD card? Try using a comparison tool such as winmerge to compare what is on the SD card to what is on your hard drive to see if the files are identical. 35MB is pretty large for something only 600 layers thick. I recommend you reduce the qty of line segments - it's kind of silly if most of the gcode moves are less than .1mm if your nozzle diameter is .4mm. So consider using meshmixer to simplify your STL file and slice one more time (not that I think this is your problem - it just might greatly improve the speed and quality of your print - and your printer not shake so much trying to make 200 tiny movements in slightly different directions per second): REDUCING/REMOVING POLYGONS/TRIANGLES Meshlab: http://www.shapeways.com/tutorials/polygon_reduction_with_meshlab

The UM website isn't so good at reporting stock but there are many resellers. I suspect there is a reseller in England that has a store that reports if they are in stock or not. Anyway I don't know the answer but probably they are in stock so I would guess 3 days shipping from Netherlands.

Does it only happen when the head is moving? Or does it happen if you just set it to 180C and sit around and watch? I guess I would certainly poke all the wires. The thermocouple itself is incredibly simple and it is hard to believe that's the problem if you took it apart and inspected it. The output of the small board on top of the head is supposed to output 0V for 0C and 5V for 500C and so on in between linearly (there's some magic chip that does this). It seems unlikely the chip is bad but I'd measure the output voltage of that chip while watching the Ulticontroller display at the same time to isolate the fault. Also check that the power going to that little board is steady at 5V. There's a spare set of wires running from the top of the print head to the PCB underneath. Consider just switching over (both ends of course) to the other cable. It might fix all problems - it did for me. Also there is a green connector where the thermocouple wires go in - those screws somehow got loose on me and I had to retighten those once.

That noise is normal in the video. It's doing lots of very tiny infill I think. So it moves, stops, moves, stops, and repeats about 20 times in under a second. It's more a slicing issue. You could increase or decrease your infill possibly but that mignt not help.

Don't use WD40 - it has more cleaning chemicals than oil. Use pretty much any mineral oil (oil dug up from underground). Some examples: baby oil, 3-in-1 oil, sewing machine oil, even medium heavy automotive oil such as 5W-30. Light oil is better (5W is light, 90W is heavy).

And whenever you see underextrusion like this try raising the temp (woah - contradicting advice!) and/or slow it down in the TUNE menu.

Hmm. Maybe the filament was getting a bit stuck in the bowden tube? If there's lots of stringing I tend to lower the temperature to fix this. Try 200C next time. In fact when you are printing something that is stringing worse than usual, just go right to the TUNE menu and drop it by 10C but don't go below 190C.

Another tip: in cura pay attention to the blue and white squares that represent the "bed". They are 10mm wide each. Place your two parts such that the left edge of the yellow part is lined up with one of those lines. Then place the words lined up knowing the yellow parts ends at the same edge.

To get the letters to stick better try printing a bit hot - maybe 230C for the blue layer only. Also move the bed a smidge closer to the nozzle - don't re-level. INstead just turn the 3 knobs 1/4 turn such that they loosen the bed to let it rise (counter clockwise looking from below). Also this will look a little better if you up the flow maybe. Well if you raise the bed 1/4 turn you probably don't have to increase the flow.

And add oil damn it!

>Hey here are my two headaches What? I don't understand the problem. I'm going to have to take wild guesses because you say "here are my two headaches" and then... you don't seem to describe any problems. Are you saying you need advice about wax? I don't think so - your original post doesn't mention that so I'm guessing you just never finished the sentence??? I looked at your STL. It's kind of strange. There are 2 separate parts. One is up in the air with no support - when the printer goes to print that bad things will happen. I don't understand why you don't print the second part down at z=0. Also when I sliced the part that *is* down on the ground/bed I had issues because you have these 6 points around the outside of the part and they are not connected to anything and so Cura is having trouble. You should connect all that stuff together into one piece. The printer is extremely accurate and since the cad model says "don't print this as one piece but as hundreds of separate pieces" then the resulting print will be exactly that. And I don't think that's what you wanted. You might want to try the web version of netfabb. It's free and will "fix up" your model - you can pass your model through it and that might be good enough.

@electromu dit la vérité. Bien qu'il devrait être de 108 ohms. Je pense que votre capteur de température était trop délicate et maintenant il est cassé.

DEfinititely put oil on the filament - it won't hurt anything. I thought the oil might make holes or pockets in the print but it doesn't. I would try using the feature in cura "cut off bottom" or whatever it's called and practice/experiment with printing those last few layers only. I had to go down to even 10mm/sec I think and a little hotter - 240C to get zero underexturions. And one drop of oil every meter or so and let the filament hang loose to the floor.

You could upload the stl file to any hosting service, then post a link to it here. Dropbox for example. If you do please leave the file avaibale on dropbox for at least 5 years so people 5 years from now can learn. The profile settings are text so it's probably best to just paste them into the forum here. I'm not sure what you want - do you want it like the left one where it has no holes? Or more like the 3rd one? If you want lots of holes then I would turn off brim as that brim is hard to remove from so many holes. If the part lifts off (doesn't stick well) then make sure the bed is at 60C and use a little glue stick and then spread the glue around very thin with a wet tissue or a tissue and a teaspoon of water. You could manually add brim in the cad model potentially just on parts that are lifting (outer edge) but you shouldn't need any brim for this part to stay down.

You definitely have some underextrusion on those side bars. I'd also print slower. Don't print any cooler than 210 if you are going at 50mm/sec. I'd stick with current temp (or even raise it to 220C but 210C is usually fine if your temp sensor is accurate) and slow it down to 25mm/sec for either the whole print or at least the problem area. There is a speed/quality tradeoff. I you want better quality then go for slower printing.