gr5

This bug (temperature fluctuation) is fixable with firmware but first figure out if you have a temp issue or a Z issue.

This can also be caused by temperature issues by the way. I would watch your temperature constantly while it prints these layers. There are some changes to the firmware that makes the temp vary by quite a bit - like 10C which is plenty to cause this pattern.

It seems unlikely it's belts as belt issues tend to be consistent layer to layer. Unless some layers are clockwise and some are counter clockwise which is unlikely with cura. I still think it's a Z issue.

That really loud noise happens to many people and has happened to me a few times. When you first hear it you think "Oh No! I broke it!". But the machine is very tough and should be able to do that without damaging anything. However it is possible you jumped a tooth on a long belt. It's also possible the rods are a bit loose and sliding back and forth. There are many possible reasons for getting non-round circles. First of all is it a UMO or UM2? Please describe what machines you own in your forum profile. On the UMO it's common to have this problem if long belts are too tight as they cause excessive friction and you get backlash. To test for rods that are sliding on UM2, print something and put a finger on either end (doesn't matter which end) while it's printing anything. Does the rod slide in and out? If so you can loosen a pulley and push the pulley outwards more to hold the rod from sliding. For alignment you want the belt lined directly above or below the rod. It's easiest to test this by pushing the print head towards the side you care about such that the block is almost to the pulley. The block will position the belt in the perfect spot. Loosen and retighten the pulley if it's not lined up. There are other things that could be causing this. At least tell us which printer you have. And check for high friction by pushing the head around with power off.

Leveling procedure doesn't change with olsson. You just have to re-level when you change nozzles because they are different heights and level when you install the olsson block. For rough leveling I use the built-in procedure and use paper if on blue-tape and if on glass I just do it visually - make the nozzle touch the glass and then back off the tiniest possible amount such that it isn't touching visually. Maybe 1/8 turn (45 degrees) back on the screws after it touches. This works very well for a first pass and is good enough for 90% of prints. Then once it starts printing I look at the brim or skirt and adjust all 3 equally - if plastic "bead" is too round (not flatened like a pancake) then I move glass closer 1/8 or 1/4 turn at a time. If it is so thin it's transparent I move the glass farther from the nozzle (tighten screws). 1/4 turn at a time. Usually all 3 screws unless only one spot is bad. Do this at the start of each print and you will have it dialled in perfect and your machine will keep its level for months or until you change nozzles.

Different people have different uses for the block. For me it's about being able to change nozzle sizes quickly and potentially being able to clean out a nozzle quickly (although that's never been a problem on my UM2s). I have only used the .4mm nozzle on it so far - I'm just so busy! Printing right now with 3 printers at once (e-nable hands). But the .6 and .8mm nozzle prints very very fast. I should know - I've used larger nozzles in the past. I'm looking forward to printing really small things with the smaller nozzle on a um2go but haven't installed the olsson block yet on um2go. Soon!

Wall thickness 1.6 is going to be kind of crazy if you are using spiralize mode - instead of making 2 passes it will output at 200% flow. Are you using spiralize mode for the vase? Please show a photo - I've never heard of "layers rubbing against each other". I reall don't know what you mean. Maybe you mean they are sticking up? On overhangs sometimes the top layer rises up a bit and the nozzle can hit it and knock the part off the bed. Is that what you mean? I think you should post a photo or a video or something.

Ihre erste Problem mit dem Schleifen der Wendel ist normal. Dies geschieht, wenn Sie zu viele Rückzüge zu tun oder in Ihrem Fall, wenn Sie zu schnell drucken. Ihre aktuellen Problem scheint ein schlechter Temperatursensor sein. Es könnte vieles sein, aber es ist üblich, Temp-Sensoren, die genau wie diese fehlschlagen haben. Sie können keine Teile zu löten im Temperaturfühler, da Lot (je nach Lot-Typ), so anstatt die Sensoren gekräuselt sind schmilzt bei Temperaturen oberhalb von 200 ° C bis 250C. Manchmal ist die Kräuselung wurde nicht ordnungsgemäß durchgeführt und, wenn Sie es erwärmen alles unterschiedlich schnell expandiert und die Kräuselung kann lose, die den Widerstand erhöht und macht es sich wärmer, als es ist, so dass Sie denken, Sie sind bei 220C aber eigentlich bei 190C sein werden. Auch der PID-Regler, da Erwärmung durch 1C könnte den Sensor zu machen lesen 20C heißer schwingt wie verrückt. Dann, wenn Sie eine offene oder ob es vielleicht über 300C liest eine Fehler gelegentlich zu bekommen. Es gibt andere Dinge, die ähnliche Probleme verursachen. Ich konnte jedoch falsch sein - es könnte sogar die Heizung Irrtum sein - ich glaube, Sie erhalten diesen Fehler, wenn sie die Temperatur, wenn es hart versuchte, nicht zu erhöhen - zum Beispiel, wenn der Temperaturfühler aus dem Heizblock oder wenn die Heizung fällt aufgehört zu arbeiten. So ist es möglich, dass die Verdrahtung mit dem Heizelement ist irgendwie schlecht. Auf jeden Fall meine erste Frage ist - sind Sie mit dem 3dsolex oder die ursprüngliche Temperatursensor? Das Gleiche gilt für die Heizung - Original oder 3dsolex Wärmesensor? Wenn Sie die 3dsolex Temperaturfühler sind empfehle ich Ihnen, die UM einem zurücklegen, um zu sehen, ob dies behebt alle Probleme. ============================ Sorry about google translate - here's the original english: Your initial problem with the grinding of filament is normal. This happens when you do too many retractions or in your case if you print too fast. Your current problem seems to be a bad temp sensor. It could be many things but it is common to have temp sensors that fail just like this. You can't solder parts in the temp sensor because solder melts at temperatures above 200C to 250C (depending on solder type) so instead the sensors are crimped. Sometimes the crimp was not done properly and when you heat it up everything expands at different rates and the crimp can become loose which raises the resistance and makes it look hotter than it is so you may think you are at 220C but actually be at 190C. Also because heating by 1C might make the sensor read 20C hotter the PID controller oscillates madly. Then if you get an open or if it reads above maybe 300C you get an error occasionally. There are other things that cause similar problems. I could be wrong however - it could actually be the heater error - I think you get that error if it can't increase the temperature when it is trying hard - for example if the temp probe falls out of the heater block or if the heater stopped working. So it is possible that the wiring to the heater is somehow bad. Anyway my first question is - are you using the 3dsolex or the original temp sensor? Same with the heater - original or 3dsolex heat sensor? If you are using the 3dsolex temp sensor I recommend you put the UM one back in to see if this fixes all your problems.

One more thing - it helps there e no bottom air gaps underneath the bottom layer if you go a little extra hot bottom layer. 245C is usually fine but you might want to go 260C and possibly print slower (this is default in Cura anyway) - certainly no faster than 40mm/sec bottom layer - 30C might be safer.

110C bed temp is good. Even if it only gets to 105C keep it at 110C. You have a big brim so that is good too. Let's concentrate on 3 more things: 1) Bottom layer needs to be squished flat - yours looks perfect but lets unscrew the 3 screws 1/8 turn anyway. Just do it. Don't relevel just turn them all 45 degrees rotation. 2) slurry. Okay so are you printing on glass? You have a UMO or UM2? Let's start over - clean all the glue off the glass. Use windex or any glass cleaner. You want PVA glue which is found in glue stick, elmers wood glue, or hair spray. Hair spray has additives so if you use that then use non-scented at least. I prefer wood glue mixed with 1 part glue, 10 to 20 parts water then I paint it on with a paint brush and let it dry until it's invisible (it dries faster if you heat the bed). Even if you already did this, do it again because oils from the ABS or your fingers may be on the bed now. 3) Final thing - make it a heated chamber. While bed is heating up find one of those boxes meant for reems of paper - for the copy machines. Turn the box upside down and put on top of the printer. Use some blue tape to hold it there. Then cover all the wall openings - preferably with saran wrap so you can see through but make it easy to open the front one so you can watch the start of the print. Ideally you want 40-50C and no hotter. The only problem with hotter is the X,Y and E servos (extruder not issue on UMO) don't want to exceed about 80C. So keep the air under 50C. This should be trivial with an open box upside-down on the top as warm air is always leaking out but you can use a thermal temp probe to verify if you have one.

It could be mild underextrusion or it could be backlash. Mild underextrusion would be expected if you exceed the settings in this table: Here are top recommended speeds for UMO, UM2 with .2mm layers (twice as fast for .1mm layers): 20mm/sec at 200C 30mm/sec at 210C 40mm/sec at 225C 50mm/sec at 240C Backlash on UMO is most often either loose *short* belts (not the long ones) so slide those motors down tight, or endcaps too tight - push the head around - if resistance is too high then that will cause backlash. Overly high resistance is usually because the long belts are too tight or even more likely one or more endcaps are causing excessive friction. You only have to loosen one endcap per rod (only loosen 4 encaps and only a small amount). Also add a drop of oil to the 6 horizontal rods (yes I said six, not four).

Do you get this symptom before heating the bed or either nozzle? You only need both power supplies if all 3 are powered on at the same time. I bet you have a bad 24V power supply. Does it have a blue light during these symptoms? Maybe you can measure it. Maybe your power plug was just loose? I would check to see if 24V is reaching the tiny added circuit board that comes with the HBK.

For those who have no idea what xisle is talking about, the TYPEs that I know of are: SKIRT WALL-INNER WALL-OUTER SKIN FILL There's probably a BRIM and SUPPORT type but not sure. I wish there were a BRIDGE type but I doubt it.

Open your gcode file in a text editor and look for M103 M104 and M109 commands: M104 S0 nozzle heat off M104 S210 set goal temp to 210C but don't wait until we reach the goal M103 all nozzles off M109 S0 nozzle heat off M109 S210 set nozzle to 210C but don't continue until it reaches that temp I'm guessing maybe you have some plugin that is messing with the temp.

The way the pattern is different at the holes - that could definitely be a belt issue. The many many horizontal lines (turned vertical for the photo) are caused by Z issues - some layers the z screw doesn't move enough and you get over extrusion because you are printing too much plastic into too small of a space and then the next layer it corrects and moves farther. Try adding a drop of light oil to each of the 2 Z rods and with power off push the bed up and down 5 or 10 times past the oil. Check for bad spots where it feels rough. Then add a drop of green grease to the threaded z shaft. Check that all the screws are tight *under* the bed - especially the 4 on the z nut. I think you have to remove the cover that says "ultimaker" on it just above the back of the bed to get to the screws for the 2 linear bearings.

Okay well I have many things to say. First of all: Holy Crap! You have a very very new board. You have the new software controllable 3rd fan (you need newer firmware though I assume). You also have a new green connector for your nozzle block. That new connector could be the problem - does it get hot as hell? I really doubt it but if that's the problem it will be getting very hot when you have the nozzle heated up. #2 Looking at the data in your table (confusing as hell by the way - nowhere do you mention that some of the data is in seconds - and the first column is labelled as room temp but does your room get to 210C? I figured it out eventually after looking at Anders post) it really looks like your block is touching the fan shroud. I know you said it wasn't. You said it wasn't in 2 posts. But It think it's touching. What version exactly of the firmware do you have. Here is some information about the heater error in the firmware - note that it doesn't care that you are 10C below goal. heater error You get an error if the heater can't move a certain amount in a certain time while driving full power (when it is close to goal temp it typically runs well below full power): Firmware Version 14.09 - does not have the feature 14.12 oct 16, 2014 - feature introduced. 20C in 20 Seconds 14.12.1 dec 15, 2014 - from 20C to 10C (still in 20 seconds) 15.01 jan 14, 2015 - from 20 secs to 30 secs (now 10C in 30 seconds)

Done! If you search for "olsson block usa" my store is now the second link in search results. "3dsolex usa" I'm 5th link. "olsson block united states" I'm the first link.

Sure - even though I've only sold 4 blocks through the NA store, lol, I will do a little SEO. I'm better at SEO than you might think - I bet I can get it above 3dsolex, he he. Give me a few weeks though... google is slow to respond. Oh here this will help, lol: 3d solex - great place to get ultimaker2 parts including the olsson block and ability to change nozzles. Isolators. Teflon. USA. North America. United States. .8mm .25mm .6mm nozzles. Steel nozzles. heaters and temp sensors.

As dimensioneer says it's probably heat or z axis (but could be slicing issues or backlash but probably z axis or heat). First rule out heat issues as this is easiest - watch the temp on the display while it is printing these layers. It should not vary by more than +/- 1 degree. If it moves by 5 degrees during a bad layer then you found the problem. If not that then it's probably Z issues. With power off slide the bed up and down. Do you feel rough spots? Did you grease the Z screw with the green packet of grease? Make sure the Z nut is held in with 4 screws nice and tight (check by pushing bed up and looking underneath). Could be vertical steel rods also or the linear bearings. Make sure those are still screwed down tight.

I had the exact same problem but it turned out my olsson block was touching the metal fan shroud. Now it works fine. But it sounds like you have a different problem. Double check that the heater cable is connected solidly and screws are tight underneath the printer. A loose connection means some heat will end up there at the connection and you can possibly see black soot in that area of the circuit board which indicates you have some heat loss to the circuit board instead of the heater.

I think you want this one: https://ultimaker.com/en/community/view/11310-accessory-purchases-for-new-user Google is your friend - they know search better than most people. To force search only within ultimaker do this: site:ultimaker.com Add to that "izzy" and "lazy susan" and done! Also all the old links to the old forum now automatically go to the same topics on the new forum. Cool!

Posting a link to a larger photo has other problems - mainly the link will break "soon". If you use imgur it will probably break within a few months. If you use drop box it will break when you clean up your drop box because you ran out of space. And so on. And it would be nice if these photos lasted for years and not months or even just a few days.

Maybe you are asking what settings does "basic quickprint" set up for those above settings? If you are asking that then the answer is "it depends on the version of cura". The way to find out is to setup quickprint to a given setting, then slice something and save it, then switch out of quickprint and then do "Load profile from gcode..." and choose the file you just sliced. It will then load all the settings into cura and you can see them in Cura.

I have never used the quickprint settings so I can't help you there. Done many hundreds of prints but never used quickprint. For your first ever print I recommend taking it out of quickprint mode and leaving everything as is except: layer height .2 shell .8 retraction on fill density 20% speed 25mm/sec (this is slow safe speed for first print) platform adhesion none support none top/bottom thickness .6

Sketchup is very good at creating models that have edges that don't quite touch and things that are not solid. When cura sees non-solid things it tends to ignore them. So before you try to print anything, look at "slice view" in cura to make sure it isn't leaving out some or all of your print.