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There's lots of causes for this (a photo would help but I think I understand you - although I can't tell you how many times the problem was "clearly" stated only to see a photo and realize there was a MAJOR miscommunication). Anyway the most common cause of this effect is when the belts rub against the wood frame. Especially the X axis. Are you having problems with both axes? You can tell if the belt is rubbing because it twists opposite direction each time it switches direction even if it looks like it's not quite touching. Adding a washer to each of the 4 motor mounts sometimes helps and moving the pulley that is on the motor as close as possible to the motor without touching (you need a small gap because once the belt is pulling hard it bends the shaft slightly and the pulley can rub the motor). I recommend marking each of the short pulleys and the rods on the motors and the other end of the short belts with a sharpie/permanent marker. This way you can see if the pulleys are slipping. While you are at it tighten the hell out of the short belt pulleys - 2 on each axis. Now there is a tiny possibility you are skipping steps in the stepper. How's the friction? Is it possible someone messed with your acceleration or jerk settings? Jerk defaults to 20 and acceleration I think to 5000. Double check those using the controller. I strongly doubt this is the issue. Also fyi, changing velocity is unlikely to affect this problem as it is more likely jerk or acceleration that would have to be changed. But instead you should fix the underlying hardware issue (such as loose-ish pulley).

Need more information. Why no glue? Please show photo - "warping" means different thing to different people. Is it sticking to the bed fine but warping later? Or is it lifting off he bed? A photo would help. What material? ABS? PLA? What printer? Do you have a heated bed?

If you are good at sketchup I suggest you stick with it for now. It took me 6 months before I was as good at DSM as I was at sketchup and it was a painful 6 month transition. (dsm=design spark mechanical). The problem with sketchup is it creates models with holes or infinitely thin walls but you can of course create more walls and triangles until everything is sealed up water tight. DSM, solidworks, and other more modern cad programs won't let you create non-3d objects so it's not an issue for most modern cad programs. Sketchup is great for visualization though! Anyway other tricks you should know if you are using scketchup: look at your model in Cura with xray mode on. ANything in a shade of red is a problem - it means an infinitely long line eminating form the camera is passing through an odd number of walls but with 3d objects it should always be even. Also the first checkbox in "fix horrible" settings often makes a sketchup object with a small hole in it closed back up. But it can also fill in holes that you *want* open so if you use it, double check in layer view that nothing gets filled in that shouldn't.

You are printing at 3.2 mm^3/sec (.4 nozzle X .2 layer height X 40mm/sec). This is a little faster than I recommend but it should be fine for most colors and brands of PLA. You can probably ignore #1 below. Many factors can cause underextrusion. Here is a short list of the most common: 1) Print slower and hotter! Here are top recommended speeds for .2mm layers (twice as fast for .1mm layers): 20mm/sec at 200C 30mm/sec at 210C 40mm/sec at 225C 50mm/sec at 240C The printer can do double these speeds but with huge difficulty and usually with a loss in part quality due to underextrusion. 2) Isolator - this is most common if you've printed extra hot (>240C) for a few hours or regular temps (220C) for 100 hours. It warps. It's the white part touching the heater block. Test it by removing it and passing filament though it by hand. 3) Curved filament at end of spool - if you are past half way on spool, try a fresh spool as a test. 4) curved angle feeding into feeder - put the filament on the floor -makes a MASSIVE difference. 5) Head too tight? Bizarrely MANY people loosen the 4 screws on the head by just a bit maybe 1/2 mm and suddenly they can print just fine! Has to do with pressure on the white teflon isolator. 5b) Bowden pushing too hard - for the same reason you don't want the bowden pushing too hard on the isolator. 5c) Spring pushing too hard. Although you want a gap you want as small as possible a gap between teflon isolator and steel isolator nut such that the spring is compressed as little as possible. 6) clogged nozzle - the number one problem of course - even if it seems clear. There can be build up on the inside of the nozzle that only burning with a flame can turn to ash and remove. Sometimes a grain of sand gets in there but that's more obvious (it just won't print). Atomic method (cold pull) helps but occasionally you need to remove the entire heater block/nozzle assembly and use flame. 7) feeder spring issues - too tight, too loose 8) Other feeder issues, one of the nuts holding machine together often interferes with the feeder motor tilting it enough so that it still works but not very well. Other things that tilt the feeder motor, sleeve misaligned so it doesn't get a good grip. Gunk clogging the mechanism in there. 9) Filament diameter too big - 3mm is too much. 3mm filament is usually 2.85mm nominal or sometimes 2.9mm +/- .05. But some manufacturers (especially in china) make true 3.0mm filament with a tolerance of .1mm which is useless in an Ultimaker. It will print for a few meters and then clog so tight in the bowden you will have to remove the bowden from both ends to get the filament out. Throw that filament in the trash! It will save you weeks of pain 9b) Something wedged in with the filament. I was setting up 5 printers at once and ran filament change on all of them. One was slowly moving the filament through the tube and was almost to the head when I pushed the button and it sped up and ground the filament badly. I didn't think it was a problem and went ahead and printed something but there was a ground up spot followed by a flap of filament that got jammed in the bowden tube.

.15 for initial layer height is extra difficult to level the bed perfectly. The default is .3 and you should consider sticking with that value. Also, better to get extra flat lines as you mentioned than to have the lines not touch. If you get issues with corners lifting off the bed switch to brim mode instead of skirt mode as you have it now.

Before saving to SD card did you look at your model in slice view to make sure it actually has something to print? Sketchup tends to make non-solid objects (such as infinitely thin walls or boxes with 5 sides but no sixth side.

All 6 belts? Also did you push the head around with power off?

Totally different machines! The zortrax prints incredibly beautiful parts but it is very slow and getting it levelled is a major pain. The zortrax only prints ABS and it does it very well. The UM2Go only prints PLA plastic and it does it very well and much faster than the zortrax and the bed stays level for months. Leveling procedure is much easier and faster also on the UM2go. ABS is stinky so don't use lots of printers without ventillation. um2go comes with great carrying case. 3dprinting is tough when teaching kids because it takes typically an hour per print if you keep the prints small. Whereas with laser cutting I can have 20 kids design stuff and then print out all 20 designs at once in about 3 minutes of cutting. But if it's a multi-day course then you could have them pick up their prints the next day (if you have a few printers). 3d modeling however sounds like a great course!

Cory's advice is good. Alternatives are to print a small tower next to your part so the head can go over there and print that to let your pin cool down. Or you can choose "cool head lift" feature but be aware that while the head moves aside a small string will slowly come out of the nozzle and then when it goes to do the next layer it will attach that string to your pin. But these strings are easy to remove later. Still the best solution is to either print 2 at a time or add a towwer at least one layer taller than your print.

I was told by Matthijs that the forum does not yet support a signature feature. Also to pick a "best answer" you have to modify your topic to be a "question".

When you figure it out mutrax and it's working and you are sure you figured it out, please post the answer yourself and mark it as "best answer". I think only you can do that.

12MUCH - please pick the "best answer". I think only you can do that (even moderators I think can't do that).

Okay that theory is wrong because some of your parts have the problem on a layer other than the top layer.

Well you could use cura. You shouldn't have to adjust this parameter. It indicates you have some play/backlash or underextrusion. Are you using your UM2 for this? It doesn't look like underextrusion but it's hard to tell in the small photo. But backlash is rare on the UM2. Are your long belts and short belts all reasonably tight? Check all 6 belts! Count them. With power off push the head around - is one axis much more high resistance? Backlash can be caused by either loose belts or by high resistance. In either case the head doesn't move as far as intended. Or as I said it could be underextrusion. Maybe slicer is putting out an extra thick top layer to line the top up with the desired top of the part - so if the part is 10.05mm tall then the final layer may print .15 mm thick and this might be too fast (too much volume) for your printer and you might have to print slower on that layer.

249 grams

either go back to the old shroud or go back to the old firmware. Somewhere I posted what versions have what tests but I can't find it now. I'm away from my home computer and my notes until Monday so I can't help you now.

Do you need the bed leveling wizard? Don't you have some other way to level your printer? I would skip the Cura leveling wizard which I've never used and probably only works on ultimaker machines.

If you use meshmixer, increase the column width of the supports by quite a bit - maybe double them. They tend to be much too skinny and fall over or break too easily. Also you can crosslink them to keep them strong if they are very tall. Just click on the side of one support then lower down or higher up on another.

95% of the time it's a loose set screw on the pulleys. Especially when it's a large sudden move like this. So get a 2mm hex allen wrench and tighten the hell out of the axis that is slipping. It's 70% of the time the one on the motor itself so you may have to remove the cover over the motor which only has 2 screws holding it in. You may have to also separate the motor from the wall which is another 4 screws - position the bed just under the motor so you can rest it on the bed if you need to take a quick break. occasoinally it's the other pulley on the short belt. Very rarely it's one of the other 3 or 4 pulleys for that axis.

So quick summary: 1) Do not use truly 3mm filament! Must be 2.85 or 2.9. Actually it can be up to 3mm but never over - 3.0001mm is too much. 2) Last 10% of the spool/reel doesn't print well due to strong curvature.

Couldn't access the photo. OneDrive wants me to log in. Screw that. Plus will one-drive still host the picture a year from now? 10 years? Please go to the gallery link at top left of this page, click that, click big blue "upload" button. After uploading start a new post (don't edit above please as I won't notice then and really want to see your picture - I love pictures) and then click "my media" while creating the post - it's next to smile icon.

Before choosing CAD, answer the question - are you designing things like iphone covers, gears, boxes, mechanical parts? Or are you designing things like horses, trees, heads, people, rocks, cartoon characters? This is very important as you want totally different software. If you start a new business you need to understand that you are going to have to give up some major time. In other words: no TV for a year. None. If you can't do that you probably shouldn't start your own business. Learning CAD really isn't that hard. There's tons of video and web tutorials for all major cad packages out there. ONSHAPE is very new so I'm not sure how much online help there is but probably plenty. Learning CAD software is a big time investment so don't choose too quickly. One trick is to google the name of the software along with something like say "rotate part" and see how many google hits there are versus some other CAD software - usually this can give you an idea of how much is out there on the internet. Doing the above for onshape gets 64 results versus 2000 for autocad, 97 for DSM, 400 for sketchup (don't use sketchup!). Maybe "rotate part" was a bad example - maybe I should have done "change color" or "calculate area". Anyway I noticed the autocad query pulled up some nice tutorial videos. You can be up and using CAD within 5 hours and generating useful stuff but it will be frustratingly slow. To be super fast at it takes a year or more. At that point switching will be not worth it. In fact withint 5 hours of starting you will feel like you invested too much time to switch CAD.

1) Check the gcodes - maybe cura is stupidly calibrating your Z axis. I think I saw that once somewhere. I dont' know where the hell it would come from. Maybe the start.gcodes tab. 2) Install and run pronterface -- it's free from here: http://koti.kapsi.fi/~kliment/printrun/ Then hookup usb cable to your printer and move the Z axis and see if the bed moves the correct distance. For example you could tape paper or a ruler to the side of your machine just touching the edge of the bed, make a mark, then move 10mm.

As mastory says, it's possible to continue a print if the nozzle clogs and you don't notice until hours later. The most important thing is to not let the heated bed cool because once that happens it can pop off the bed. I've continued a few prints. To get the Z height exact though I did something different - I used pronterface and a USB cable and sent the printer G commands, e.g. "G1 Z29.7" says to move Z to 29.7mm and then I would eye it carefully and maybe move the X and Y closer to the part if I'm getting close. I also did the G92 thing but other's don't bother and it works fine because if you ask marlin to move Z by more than, I don't know, a meter or so it just ignores that particular move and continues on. It basically does a G92 by default.

Your suggested setup may work fine but there is no guarantee as there are many things that can go wrong like zoev89 says. His best example is if a finger stops one fan it might get all or most of that 24V! That is best idea. I'm glad you checked.