gr5

It's hard to turn off top/bottom thickness on some parts of the model and "only leave it for the real top and real bottom". This assumes you are printing spheres or cubes. Most things I print have many many "top" and "bottom" sufaces at many different heights. I've never minded the fast paced zig zag of this little bit of infill on some layers because the UM2 head is so light weight. Although if I ever print with transparent filament I will be equally annoyed by it and probably set my top/bottom skin thickness to .2mm or 0mm. Did you try that @ggabriele3? See what it looks like in the slice view?

They arrived this evening! I will be sending out emails in a few minutes.

By the way your leveling looks a bit off. You should have the print bed about .1mm closer to the nozzle for the bottom layer. I know you said you did .3mm bottom layer thickness but Cura commands the nozzle to .3mm above the bed so it should be squished more wide than tall (pancake like but with .3mm by .4mm cross section). Whereas your bottom layer is more round.

Nick Foley has taught me some great techniques for getting better quality. I'm pretty sure he's smarter than I am. So that's probably good advice. The "jagged infill" near the edge is just what you thought - support for layers above. Yeah it shakes the machine a bit but it's usually worth it. Interesting point! There's an expert setting in Cura that removes this: "Black Magic - only follow mesh surface". The problem is I think it won't do top surfaces either. Unless maybe you check them on purpose? Probably not. Hopefully Daid will read this topic and some day allow you to disable that "jagged support infill" although *most* of the time it *improves* quality.

LOL!!! New York is a 4 hour drive from Boston. Las Vegas is all the way the other side of the country. 2 days drive. What the hell?

@pm_dude - I will be contacting you as soon as they arrive here in Boston. I don't know what the hell the postal system is doing. Actually it says they are DONE processing in NYC. We've had some big snow storms here in Boston - we had a record breaking 3 foot storm (1 meter) but we can handle that here and the streets were all clear and open within 24 hours and then we got another 1.5 foot storm less than a week later and 3 2-inch storms and another 8 inch storm this weekend. Maybe the parts got lost under the snow? I'm getting a bit nervous. Here's the tracking info (USA postal service tracking sucks - it's not like the amazing DHL, UPS, or FedEx): https://tools.usps.com/go/TrackConfirmAction.action?tRef=fullpage&tLc=1&text28777=&tLabels=RA022337470no

Please post a picture - to do that go to "gallery" link on top left corner of this page, then click "upload" then edit your above post or add a new one and then click "my media" next to smile face icon.

And restinpieces - what country do you live in? Please update your profile, thanks.

I have a shipment of 10 sitting in New York for about a week now. I don't know what the hell takes so long. Customs I suppose. Anyway I will be accepting payment as soon as they arrive at my house. I am shipping only to USA, Canada, Mexico. I already have the first 10 "allocated" to people. When I receive the parts I will be requesting payments and if I don't sell them all within a week I will open it up to more people. I'm pretty sure I will have at least 2 extras. So if you are in the USA, Canada, Mexico and are strongly interested let me know soon.

This is a common problem - the glue is stronger than the glass. I've only heard about this with PET. Not ABS. I really don't know what the solution is. It doesn't happen with PLA as far as I know. Glass (fortunately) is extremely cheap in the USA because we have lots of windows in this country. So talk to a glass store and get 10 or so spares. Shouldn't cost much at all. I don't recommend the tempered glass as I'm not sure but that might be part of the problem. UM2 glass is normal tempered glass. But what do they know? Maybe regular glass is better.

accel is in mm/sec/sec Oh! Of course. On the UMO there are jumpers and it's easy. UM2 isn't for tinkerers.

Well your theory about the Z axis being off would explain what you see. And this is a COMMON problem for the Z axis to move not enough on some moves and too much on other moves. But for it to happen exactly on every other layer for 10 consecutive layers? That is unheard of. Anyway this is worth investigating... Connect your printer through USB to a computer and install pronterface (aka printrun) from here: http://koti.kapsi.fi/~kliment/printrun/ Then use that to do experiments where you move the Z axis up and down. Also try moving it up and down with the power off by lifting hard at the rear 2 corners - one with each hand. Is there grease on the Z screw? Your UM2 may have come with a small packet of green grease. That is meant for the Z screw.

That inward curve is something unrelated. You can read about it here (5th picture down on left column of pictures): http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide

Continuing a print is complicated unfortunately but if it's a long (more than 5 hours say) print then it's worth learning how to continue a print. Each time you do it you get better and faster at it (like baking cookies). First you need to use pronterface to find the exact layer to continue on. Pronterface is here: http://koti.kapsi.fi/~kliment/printrun/ read all gr5 posts here: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4213-ideas-for-recovering-failed-prints/?p=34788 post #9 here has specific code change example for um2 (ultigcode): http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/5269-um%C2%B2-printing-more-than-24-hours-non-stop/?p=46704

Yes. First step - keep the bed warm. Once it cools then it pops off and you have to start over.

If you read above, there are 3 possible causes - you need to figure out which one it is (rods not parallel, screws pushing up on glass or bad glass). All 3 are easily and quickly fixed, the glass itself best to get from customer support. Could be nozzle is not at the temp you think - that's printing quite slow though. More likely you have a bad isolator that needs drilling out or a nozzle that needs cleaning. The easiest fix is the cold pull for the nozzle (also known as atomic method): http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4118-blocked-nozzle/?p=33691 If that doesn't work it may require disassembling the print head and burning out anything in there. Check the white teflon isolator while it's apart by passing curved raw filament through it and checking for high friction.

These prints with the banding - it's incredibly regular. It looks like it might be making a band on every layer? Is that possible? Is your layer height still .1mm or did you change it? Is it .1mm in the picture in the previous post above this post? Are those bands .1mm apart or farther apart?

This is very common when printing through USB. Do you print through USB? Or with an SD card?

Did it look like that before the shroud? It really looks like you had no fan. Something is really messed up. Can you post a photo of your nozzle - I want to see if the tip/shoulder is worn down. Also it would be nice to get a video of it in action - when it is doing the "support" for the hand. I just threw out 4 things - please think about all 4 (test the left fan, was it better before the shroud, nozzle worn down (particularly by brassfill or carbon fiber), make video).

You don't have to remove the bowden tube to do the atomic method: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4118-blocked-nozzle/?p=33691

Your walls are too skinny. Near the top and bottom sliced horizontally they are more than .8mm but on the sides it gets below .8mm. You can override this in Cura by selecting a smaller shell width - say .3mm. I would try the largest shell width that still prints the sides as printing .3mm worth of filament through a .4mm nozzle is not as good quality. But it works. .35mm setting would be better if it allows you to print the whole part. Also you need to rotate that part so it sits "flat". With no support that part in that orientation will be kind of crappy. This is trivial in Cura - click on the part, click "rotate" and then rotate it 90 degrees.

Don't throw away the old nozzle. Burn it out with a flame. And switch back some day when the new nozzle gets clogged.

Did you try anything in between? Like 2000? or 1000?

Oh - in xray view - anything red is bad. blue and white are good.

Sketchup is designed to make visual scenes and so allows impossible-to-print things like infinitely thin planes. You either have holes in your objects or have extra internal walls. You can see this easily in Cura by selecting "xray view". Sometimes you can fix this by playing with the 4 "fix horrible" checkboxes. Or you can fix your model in sketchup.