gr5

I was at a "3D printed quadcopter" meetup last night! Talk about amazingly niche meetups! There were about 80 people there. It was crazy. I got lots of great advice and was inspired! The largest group by far were FPV (first person view) enthusiasts. They all met each other at fpvlab.com. They have amazing rigs and have flown a few *miles* from their base station. But mostly they had small, fast, FPV fliers that they zip around through trees at high speed.

@mark hale - regarding your post #740 (5 posts ago) that lower picture looks like underextrusion. It's the pattern one sees (broken strands all around) when you print very thin layer heights (< .08) and/or underextrusion.

CuraEngine.exe is the one that you need to tell the virus scanner to ignore. But before you do that - you should disable virus scanner completely just to see if it makes a difference. Because having it ignore one file might not be the fix. Or virus scanner might not be the problem but the only way to know for sure is to disable it completely for a few minutes while you test out cura.

UMO+ and UMO with HBK have many differences. UMO+ has a *metal* fan shroud. UMO+ has a white UM2 circuit board. The white circuit board means it uses a PT100 thermistor instead of a thermocouple in the nozzle block. UMO+ power supply probably can't support dual head! Other minor differences. But for most practical purposes they are the same.

I don't know how tight. I think maybe it's not so much how tight are the screws - but how tight is the bowden pushing on the isolator. I just read every damn post on this forum for the last few years and when someone finds a solution (among many solutions that work!) I mention it again.

I did the exact same thing that bot did in his video - got the red text box - but no delays. I typed a new value and it started slicing again. @bot - Are you sure you don't have any antivirus software? Maybe windows firewall? Windows defender? I can definitely see why bot needs a "slice" button. There is some serious bug going on there. Bot you know you can just not load the model until all your settings are ready, right? That's a work around. But I'd first try disabling all antivirus software which might be delaying the launch of the slice engine.

Ultimaker in the past would hang a printer upside down by a rope at their booth while it was printing. I've printed with the machine on it's side before. Doesn't seem to help overhangs at all :( but it might help bridging I suppose if you printed on it's side such that the "strings" were vertical.

If you are as strong as me then pulling as hard as you can won't damage the bowden or anything. But a good rule of thumb would be 10 to 20 pounds should be enough. If it comes out with less than 5 pounds pulling force nozzle was too hot. If it takes more than 20 pounds force, heat it up 5C to 95C. Wait 10 seconds and try again. If you still can't do it after 30 seconds at 100C then something is wrong with your heater. Or you have strange filament that needs to be printed hotter than normal PLA.

I've never heard of "3d pdf" files. I have no idea how one converts from "3d pdf" to stl.

Ah! This is much more clear. But I don't know the answer. Well let's see - if movements are backwards in pronterface than definitely change the "invert" signals until that part is right then don't touch that and move to the next thing (homedir and endstops). You might have to plug endstops to a different connector maybe?

Maybe you should make a short video of what you are talking about. With sound so I can hear the extruder motor.

You need to give more information. Is this "no filament extruding" happening right on a filament change? Are you rehoming when you switch colors? I mean you should be printing a whole new print for the second color, right? First of all I don't use the "change filament" procedure. I just pull it out and push it in. That way I can also make sure to prime it. And the second part I print has a nice skirt to get the filament flowing before it starts on the primary bottom layer. I think what's happening with you is your feeder skips back when you start the print and it takes a while to get going again. Hence the skirt.

This is a common complaint with t-glase and also PET. I haven't tried it yet. Not sure what the solution is.

Open a ticket with support.ultimaker.com. Refer to this thread and they'll send you a new one. The part (if you want to fix it yourself) is a PT100 but don't use regular solder which melts around 250C. You need to do mechanical connection only (or use 300C lead solder). I recommend doing the ticket now as it may take a few weeks before they get around to your ticket.

Probably not. The biggest difference tends to be that the UMO belts are a bit loose which is easily fixed. The quality of my 2 machines right now is pretty damn close.

I don't recomend updated to firmware newer than 12.09. If anything most people seem to have *more* problems than less with the latest firmware (although a few people report that their nozzle temp is more steady - other's report that it is less steady). As far as "yikes lots of people have this problem I hear silence from UM...". The problem is clearly not "one single issue" to me. I mean if you wanted to give it a single description I would call it "underextrusion". But underextrusion has about 20 possible causes and from reading all the posts they seem to be different causes for different people. The most common: 1) Keep the spool on the floor - having it go into the extruder at an angle grinds up the black PTFE feeder housing causing the part to be the wrong shape, add nozzle clogging gunk to your filament, and add friction. 2) The white ptfe isolator at the nozzle head can get compressed too much (4 screws too tight or spring too tight) and result in a smaller than desired hole for the filament to go through. Consider loosening the 4 long screws a turn and/or drilling out the isolator if you have trouble sliding filament through. 3) The end of a filament being more curved is harder to get through both the bowden and the white isolator especially if it has shrunk. 4) Nozzle temperature fluctuations. Simplest fix is sometimes to add some silver high temp grease between temp sensor and heater and the block. 5) gunk in the nozzle - permanent baked on gunk lining the inside of the nozzle - not causing a complete clog but slowing down the ability to print at speeds that used to work. All of these 5 issues are underextrusion issues that typically don't show up on the first 10 prints but show up after 10 to 1000 hours of printing.

Some people think Y should be the vertical axis and Z is coming "out of the monitor". Ultimaker thinks Z should be the vertical axis. Neither is "correct". You can also easily rotate parts in Cura by clicking on them once and choose the rotate icon, grab a circle and it normally jumps in 15 degree increments.

Well it looks like underextrusion. Did you update the firmware recently? There have been changes related to nozzle and bed temperature in recent versions of Marlin. I suspect you have temperature issues. While printing go into the tune menu and watch the temp carefully - see if it is oscillating. It shouldn't vary by more than 1C from goal temp. Also consider maybe the thermistor is bad. You can test nozzle temp using this video as a guide:

I've done prints on aluminum before. They come out stunning. I've used I believe snapfish: http://www.snapfish.com/snapfish/fe/p/openplatform/AppLandingPage/productType=Metallic-Print/globalAppId=ezprints/mrchOID=70011 Ritz and Shutterfly also have good services for printing on aluminum.

This is what they look like I presume and I can see how a few loose ball bearings shouldn't hurt anything.

I have the same issue. It was silent at first but now months later, not so much. It's a scary sound the first time I heard it. Sounded like something was cracking/splitting/scratching but after listening more closely I think it might be just loose ball bearings. Or maybe it's getting damaged every time I move it. Don't know. It only does it on a certain section of the movement. I have a UM2 also which gets more use so I don't worry about it too much but still... The noise is much louder when pushing the bed down versus up. I'm not sure but I think it's coming from the left bearing and not the main nut.

I print the last 15% of any roll of UM filament using UM Original printer only. I also have no use for spools. I just put the filament on the floor whether it's spooled or not.

You would think but I got my UM2 in 3 days. They shipped on a Friday and delivered on a Monday. On Sunday alone that thing made huge progress. As far as I can tell DHL works just as hard on Sundays as on Mondays.

Flip it over?

If you call them they often pick up the phone and you can get instant service. If you create a ticket it will probalby take 2 weeks to get a response: support.ultimaker.com You can print fine on a cold bed but you have to put painters masking tape on it. Your printer should have come with blue tape - use that. Make sure you clean the tape after laying it down to remove a tiny bit of wax on the top layer. It's easy to do with some isopropyl alcohol. If you don't clean with isopropyl alcohol then PLA won't stick well. Then also print the first layer extra hot - 240C. Then lower to 220C or whatever you normally print manually when the second layer starts.