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Oh and check out these guides: http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/30-getting-better-prints

There's a few possible problems. For one thing you might just be printing too fast and/or too cold. Try 50mm/sec and 220C. In general stay at 1/2 the speed of the dark blue line here (it depends on layer thickness and temperature): http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4127-um2-extrusion-rates-revisited/ The loud clicking sound at the back is the feeder missing steps. This is on purpose - by design. The idea is if the pressure gets too high in the head because you are printing too fast or cold then it's better to skip steps then to grind the filament. Unfortunately you have grinding *anyway*. So again, 220C at 50mm should fix the skipping problem. As far as your filament getting squished flat - this is possibly more serious. The glass temp of PLA is around 50C which is a comfortable hot tub temperature. I recommend just to "get a feel for it" that you take a few inches of filament and boil some water in the microwave then take the water out and dip the filament in the hot water (now probably at 80C) for about 10 or 20 seconds. Take the filament out and play with it - bend it - squish it. Until it hardens. Now to the fix - this is a recent problem on some printers. One fix is to crank the AC. My bed and nozzle are at 20C room temp when I haven't used the printer in a few hours. What's your room temp? The other fix is to remove the back left metal cover that hides the 2 steppers back there. It is held in by only 2 screws - very easy to remove. Then use a table fan and place it in front of the UM2 aiming the air flow at the stepper. That can improve things greatly! UM is working on other fixes but these 2 fixes work fine for even room temps at 90F (35C)!

If you look at this part in "layer view" I think you will find that the printer did exactly what Cura requested. But I could be wrong. Always look at your part in layer view before printing. It takes one minute to check it, and 30 to 1000 minutes to find out that it didn't slice correctly.

1) Those cylinders look fine to me. I think I would consider those "10mm^3/sec" or full speed which is better than most printers. But you need to do the test now, not 2 weeks ago. Your printer may be worse due to a clog, deformed nozzle, dust, twisted/tangled filament, etc. 2) I don't want your infill% I want your infill speed. It should be set to 0mm/sec which makes it the same as normal print speed which is recommended. 3) You didn't answer about layer height. I shouldn't have to ask twice. 4) Assuming 0.2mm layer height, 200C and 40mm/sec... That's much too fast. At that cold temperature and thick layer height the fastest the machine can go - the absolute limit where you expect occasional failures (every 10 seconds or so) - see dark blue line on this graph: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4127-um2-extrusion-rates-revisited/ I recommend printing at half the speed of the blue line (20mm/sec) or if you are printing .1mm layer then 40mm/sec is just fine. Again, what's your layer height? Personally I recommend printing at 40mm/sec but hotter - according to the graph 220C is hot enough for .2mm layer at 40mm/sec and 200C is hot enough for .1mm layer at 40mm/sec.

It's not disrespect. They are just 2 weeks behind in support. The company is growing too fast and they need to hire more people but they are too busy to do hiring. Catch 22. There are others in Brazil with Ultimaker 2. You might want to talk to Oswaldo on this forum - I've met him in person - very nice guy - maybe you live in the same city and can try his printer out while you wait for yours. http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/user/21355-oswaldo-salzano/

Oh! Did you remember to add a 4.7K resistor to the new board? In the same place you had it in the old board? I bet that's it. Almost everything in your photo shows heating related circuitry (power supply, relay, wiring) but your problem isn't with the heat circuitry but the *measurement* circuitry.

*own That's normal. I think I heard some crunch while printing sometimes also. It's a bit scary. No problems printing so far though.

The collets have metal blades that grip the tube. If you force the tube out you will either break off some of the blades or scrape the bowden to a smaller diameter. Either of these are bad things to do. If you don't damage the blades you can just cut off the last 2mm of tubing and the next time the blades will grip a fresh spot on the tube. If you break a blade you need to get another collet.

Cura and most other slicers use STL files. You can export sketchup files to STL files with a free plugin.

:lol: Yes. But I agree it would be nice if Cura had an option instead of having to use the plugin. Is this a top layer? Bottom layer? There are other solutions for top or bottom layer that makes it even more perfect but the plugin is a good option.

By default in Cura the bottom layer thickness is .3mm which means it moves to Z 0.3mm or .3mm "above" z=0 position. If you change the bottom layer thickness to .1mm it will then move to Z 0.1MM and extrude 1/3 as much. Neither of these will help. You need to make it so that Z 0 is 0mm off the bed. Isn't it possible to do this when you "home" your prusa? If not you can mess with stuff using G92 gcode (look it up). But better to level properly.

Picture please! Click "gallery" on the top left of this page, then "upload" button, then after uploading start new post and click "my media" next to smile icon.

When ordering nozzles look carefully at the size of the "flat" at the tip of the nozzle compared to the UM sourced parts. This is a crucial dimension and large flats will give you poor quality prints. The quality of parts out of China tends to be quite good. But you never know.

Yes, those will work on UM1 and many other reprap style printers. They will not work on UM2 which has an integrated heater block/nozzle. My mistake - they are only $1.52 each. I recommend drililng them out to different sizes. .4mm is great but .8mm is also a very useful size - you can print much faster. 4X faster. with only a small loss to resolution. .6mm nozzles and larger don't clog nearly as easily either.

To post a picture click "Gallery" on the top left of this page. Then click big blue "upload" button. After uploading create a ne post and click on "my media" next to smile icon and choose "gallery images".

UM2 nozzles are I believe $40 plus another $40 for shipping possibly. Although I suppose in the USA shipping is probably only about $5 as they will most likely be shipped from Ultimaker USA.

ebay! It's wonderful. They come from china of course so you might have to wait a month.

Oh - then you need to build your own like stated above. ? Try again - use marlinBuilder again. Click the very large button. Right click the "hex" file and choose "save file as...". If you open it in a text editor it should something like this: :100000000C94040A0C94B00C0C94E10C0C94120D9A :100010000C94430D0C94740D0C94A50D0C94D60DFA :100020000C94070E0C94250A0C94250A0C94250AAE : If you are on a PC you might have to rename the file to extension ".hex" before using Cura to send the file to the printer.

So this sounds like a different problem than the topic. You can connect just fine, right? Do you have an ulticontroller? that makes things so much simpler. If not you should control the printer with pronterface is it will give you much better diagnostics - free download here: http://koti.kapsi.fi/~kliment/printrun/ So you say the extruder heats up? I'm wondering if it is getting a MAXTEMP error. I don't know how to test this without an ulticontroller because I only use ulticontroller but pronterface might be able to tell you. Also you should use the version of firmware that comes with Cura. Have you gotten that to install onto the arduino yet? Other versions of Marlin will not work with the heated bed as this is a unique way to do the temperature measurement and doesn't match any of the existing temp probes in normal Marlin firmware. So start Cura from the begining with the wizard and answer the questions "UMO" (not umo+) and HBK (heated bed kit) and see what version of firmware it supplies you.

Both heaters are controlled with a switch. In PID mode they typically switch 10 to 20 times per second. You can see the LEDs flashing when the heated bed gets within 10 degrees below goal. This is because the 24V is changing enough for the LED's to dim when it's on. So this is basically current control. But the voltage is not measured and accounted for. power is proportional to voltage squared so a 2X change in voltage is a 4X change in power. The PID controller can handle the wrong voltage just fine but it takes a minute to adjust. If the voltage keeps changing, the temp is often wrong. However this should not be a problem on a well designed board and power brick. The brick should be able to put out 24V +/- .5V with bed on and off. Anyway this is all still just an untested theory.

People say that really old glass windows are thicker at the bottom because glass is a liquid. Supposedly when you go through the math you would have to leave that glass vertical for thousands of years so I don't think it got bent inside your machine.

Buy the countersink. You will use it for other things. Maybe not this year but I found mine to be incredibly useful for many projects. And it deburrs holes also. It's just a handy, cheap, light weight tool. I suspect it's impossible to permanently bend the glass due to the screws. Of course you could flip it over and see if it corrects, lol. Like someone else said you need to countersink those holes or the air gap will cause other more serious problems (bed at wrong temp). UM Support can send you a new bed but it will probably take a few weeks. It's easy to open a ticket. There are probably large profit margins - just do it. Don't worry about it. As far as buying tempered glass, what is the price for ordinary glass? I hear that works fine.

By the way the easiest fix for above (if the voltage change is consistent across printers) is to measure the two voltages when bed is on and off and it's very easy to compensate in the PID algorithm if you know the change in voltage and knowing if the bed is on or off at the current moment.

I'm thinking something much lower frequency. I can always come up with 10 theories but the simplest one for now is that when the heat bed is on it draws so much power that the voltage going to the nozzle heater drops significantly maybe from 24V to 19V e.g. The problem could be the brick itself or the traces are too thin somewhere along the heater path or other resistance (connectros, FET). Then what happens is when the heat comes on the bed the PID controller for the nozzle thinks it has the perfect PWM for nozzle heat but it doesn't realize the voltage dropped a lot so the head cools. After a few layers the head gets back to normal temp (goal temp) and then the bed heater shuts off and the voltage goes up. Then suddenly the PID doesn't realize this change and the nozzle gets too hot for a few layers. Eventually the PID controller gets the nozzle back to goal temp only to have the problem repeat every minute or two. This is just one possible theory but it explains everything. I have already come up with a few other theories that seem less likely and more difficult to investigate. This one should be investigated first.

Like cell phones, wifi, quadcopters and other radio receivers. Don't fly too close to the UM2!