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Of the bed or the nozzle? I'm not surprised at all about the bed. But my theory is that the nozzle temp changes significantly when the bed comes on versus off.

1) Are you certain retraction is happening at all? There are 6 or so settings that control it. You can verify it in layer view. 2) Please post a picture because what you call stringing we might call something totally different like "bad Z axis" or underextrusion. 3) Consider increasing retraction distance. When my UM2 was new 5.5mm was perfect. Now that I have the bowden tube locked tight in the print head and it never moves up and down anymore I can do 4.5mm and that's perfect. 4) Some brands of PLA do a small amount of thin stringing no matter what you do. 5) Printing very slow (e.g. 20mm/sec) greatly reduces pressure in print head and reduces stringing to pretty much zero. But you shouldn't have to go this low. I recommend printing some kind of stringing test part like the first photo here: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/1872-some-calibration-photographs/ Then modify settings like retraction distance, and print speed WHILE it is printing.

I hear makerbot is even worse. Sorry - that's not much of an endorsement. If you phone tech support they often answer immediately (call before 10am your time). However, you should post any problems you have on these forums. You will get very fast answers and learn a lot!

I also heard it jumped recently from 2 weeks to 6 weeks. Don't know why but I know they are shipping. You may have been better off ordering from makerShed since you are in the USA. Their ordering website is much clearer about if they have them in stock or not and you get the same service after you receive it.

By the way in other tests I found bang-bang mode still kept the bed (not a UM heated bed) at a constant temp within 1C. So I think the problem has more to do with the 24V supply. Or maybe it's a firmware bug related to interrupt service routines?

Unlikely. Sorry. Because PID mode creates too much electromagnetic interference and violates CE certification. But Daid *might*. I mean most people don't care that much about a small amount of EM noise. Meanwhile someone at UM will hopefully figure out if this is a rare problem (certain power supplies) or if this is a common problem to every UM2. Personally I have not updated my firmware in several months and am now reluctant to do so. :wink:

I suppose it could be causing problems for the Z stepper but much more likely it's the head temperature swinging through various temperatures. The bed uses the most power so when it is on the voltage probably changes a bit and may affect the nozzle temperature somehow either by messing with the temp sensor (seems unlikely) or by changing the characteristics of the nozzle heater (now at lower voltage) that messes up the PID controller and causes some overshoot.

They (other cura plugins) probably all use the M0 command. I think your question is more a printrbot question - see if there is another command (e.g. M1 which I think is also pause) that would work better for the printrbot. Does the printrbot have any kind of control panel? I think repetier might be able to *not* send the M0 and instead stop sending commands and you can tell repetier to continue sending gcodes. Cura I don't think knows how to do that.

I'm skeptical. UM is getting away from USB printing. They mainly support SD card printing and in the future wifi printing but USB printing is an "old technology" and they are looking to the future. Having said that, you can pause just fine using gcode command or using panel (although from the panel there is a 20 or so movement delay because of the buffering). At least on UM machines. Don't know about printrbot. So I think you are going to have to stick with repetier or pronterface for printing.

I set the filament width to 2.85mm a few years ago and never touched it. I don't think it matters as much as some think.

jim can't receive messages until he validates his email. There is no qty limit. The 3 posts is so that moderators don't have to approve his messages. jim I'm skeptical about any reliability differences between the printers. The heated upgrade kit is well worth it. I don't have to level anymore and I can print ABS. The underextrusion is probably worse on the UM2 if anything because the motor has less power (on purpose) so that you get skip-backs on the stepper instead of grinding the filament. Nozzles are $5 each including shipping so I'm not sure what that problem is exactly. Replacing a nozzle on UMO is just 2 minutes once it warms up. It's 20 minutes on the UM2. Plus nozzles are $40 I believe (not including shipping) on UM2 and only UM sells them so... "win UMO" when it comes to nozzles. The UM2 main advantage is it looks nicer (to some people) and it is quieter. These were not among your complaints. It sounds like your bowden is damaged - if you take it out of the head too often or without releasing the metal blades that hold it in place it gets scraped. I recommend you get a new bowden tube instead of a new printer. I'm told the reliability of other manufacturers 3d printers is MUCH WORSE than Ultimaker. Especially the latest line of Makerbots which have nightmare problems with the extruder assemblies. You might just have been unlucky with some parts of your UMO. Or maybe you print too cold. Or too fast. Or maybe you have a dusty environment or maybe your feeder creates sawdust that makes it's way through the bowden to the head. Maybe your thermocouple is off such that you are printing colder than you think. Emotionally you may be tired of fixing your UMO - and don't want to buy a new one. But I recommend you stick with your existing one or buy another UMO kit.

It's not software. It's hardware. You say your pulleys are tight but you need to tighten the hell out of the setscrews. Also most people tighten only 8 pulleys but there are 12. 6 on each axis. Usually it's the 2 hardest to get to: the ones on the motor and the other one on the short belt. Is it moving "all over the platform" in X and Y or only in one direction? A picture would be nice. See 9th and 10th photos here (pink part and leaning robot): http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide

I think they are told not to comment on this subject. They promised it first quarter 2015 for UM2. It's been available for about a year now on the UMO so consider buying a UMO instead. They made a major breakthrough on it a few months ago.

I'm not sure how to read the log - I'm thinking you get the exact same lines added to the end of the log file each time you print. I think the gcode file is corrupt. Did you save it and look at it? I would look at the 1045th line in the file. Look for "26" such as M26, G26 or just plain "26". I'd also consider deleting everything in the log file and trying one more time to see what happens. Hopefully Daid will respond here. I haven't tried USB printing for almost 2 years so I really am not familiar with debugging techniques if you don't have an ulticontroller.

Oh - and the clicking sound is on purpose - it's the extruder stepper motor skipping backwards because there's too much pressure on the filament. It can get up to about 5kg of force (that's a lot - like 100psi inside the nozzle) before skipping backwards. Much more force and you grind away the filament so this "skipping back" is actually a feature.

Support is a week or two behind. They will eventually get back to you although the phone is much more succesful. You can poke around all you want and won't void the warranty just from removing screws and stuff. I think there is a sticker on the heated bed with a warranty warning so don't mess with that without talking to them first. 260C is hot enough to turn PLA and ABS into a gunk that will clog your nozzle. I recommend the "atomic method" to clean it out - that's the easiest thing to do: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4118-blocked-nozzle/?p=33691 What material were you printing? PLA? If that doesn't work then you can try sticking a hypodermic or acupuncture needle up the nozzle and do atomic method at same time. If *that* doesn't work I'd take it all apart and remove the nozzle/heater assembly and cook all the plastic out with a gas flame. Google the procedure. People have made videos too. read/watch how other people took it all apart before taking the thermocouple out yourself.

First of all never print anything without checking in layer view first. That would have made it more obvious. Also I recommend setting infill to 20% only if to check how it looks in layer view as that makes it more easy to see what is "inside" and "outside". All the red areas in xray view are a problem but often you can ignore that and fix the model with one of the 11 possible combinations of "fix horrible" (never check both A and B - that leaves 11 combinations). If not then you can fix it in meshlab (which is free). Here are some hints: http://meshlabstuff.blogspot.com/2009/04/how-to-remove-internal-faces-with.html xray view shows white or shades of blue if a beam traveling from your eye passes through an even number of faces. If it passes through an odd number it ends up red. That implies either a hole or an extra face.

Google this error and add "cura" to the search and you get this answer: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/3336-problem-in-building-curaengine/

Changing current is dangerous so buy a spare driver first (google "pololu" if you want a cheap, well built replacement). They blow up easily. Clockwise versus counterclockwise is different for the several different servo drivers. Somewhere google will find you a photo of the 5 different kinds that UM sells and which way to turn them. You can measure the voltage at the tiny potentiometer or at the nearby via. That voltage is a constant of the max current. In other words, 0V means 0amps, 5V means 5*constant Amps. I don't remember the formula but you can google "pololu" for more details and the exact formula.

1) Controller? You mean power brick? The black thing? Or did you remove the bottom cover? 2) Was the display black? 3) Please update your country in your location settings, thanks. If the printer won't print but the display is lit up just fine then there may be a simple fix. If the blinking red is on the brick then there also may be a simple fix. I've had problems with my Ultimaker power bricks that was fixed by leaving it unplugged for a long time (like a day). It should be blue solid when working.

I don't have a pdf editor unfortunately. UltiArjan - did you also ask me about antishake video software? I forget who asked me where to get it - I owe someone my cheat sheet on doing anti-shake.

Another possibility is "MAX temp" error. If you have an ulticontroller this is displayed on the screen. If not I don't know how to tell - make sure you are using the full "pronterface" mode in Cura print view. This mode shows you MUCH more details about what is happening while printing.

1) Do you have an ulticontroller? If so does it display anything in particular? If so are you using the SD card as this is much much more reliable. 2) It could be a pause command. Check to make sure you don't have anything in the "plug in" tab in Cura. Make sure no plug ins are enabled. In fact try enabling one to see how it looks different and then removing it atain. 3) Most likely it's either corrupt file on the SD card (just copy the file fresh) or USB issues. Cura logs all the USB transfer errors into a file somewhere. I'm going to predict there are thousands of checksum errors in there. The best fix is to get an ulticontroller but many people have gotten the USB working by trying different cables (shorter is better) or different computers, or using a USB hub to bugger the USB signals and increase their strength (voltage). USB is very unreliable with Arduinos.

In sketchup the default surface is white on the outside, gray on the inside. You can right click on any triangle and swap sides. This could take many days if you have hundreds of thousands of triangles that need swapping. Fortunately Cura has a "fix horrible" option to take care of this. While I love sketchup, it's not very good for models to be printed.

It was explained in excruciating detail above.