gr5

It's probably one of the heater circuits. With nothing in temp1 it probably doesn't turn on the heater circuit. Turning it on probably causes a short - the FET that turns on the nozzle heater is probably blown. If you don't need heat you can just cut that 3 lead part out completely and toss it.

yes. But in a complex way. If shell is .8 and nozzle is .4 then infill is .4. If wall is .5 and nozzle is .4 then infill is .5mm. Cura will print from I believe 75% to 150% of nozzle width so if nozzle is .4 then from .3mm to .6mm. If shell is .3 then you get one .3mm pass and infill is .3mm. If shell is .7mm then you get two .35mm passes and infill is .35mm. So try to always set shell to integral multiple of nozzle width! edit: fixed some numbers.

It sounds annoying as hell. With power off, or with power on but with servo power off (they are off most of the time when not printing) push the head around. Try to duplicate the noise and see where it's coming from. Belts? Rods? Pulley slipping and grinding a rod? Motor? Motor pulley? Try also pushing it around by pushing on the side blocks or just one block and try pushing by moving the long belts or short belt directly. Are you near the huntington beach in CA? It's important to know what country you are in as customer support is usually faster in USA (at this time, UM CS is hiring).

Most important setting is to have fan at full 100% (255) by the time you get to the "shoulder".

That oozing is normal. After the printer homes and warms up it squirts out even more. At that moment I grab it with my fingers and pull it towards the front of the machine as the bed raises. When the nozzle touches the glass/bed/tape I drop the blob down in front of the bed (over the edge) and the ooze stream creates a line to the start of the print and then I can walk away. Other printers do a wipe before starting the print across the front edge. I don't know why Cura doesn't do this. For UM Original it's easy to add a wipe or other start sequence to the start.gcode in Cura. For UM2 you can't do that unless you print in reprap mode which isn't worth it for me.

Anyway, short answer is "no" not quite that many retractions but I've gotten close. I had no trouble. Try tightening your spring on the feeder. I've heard some discussion that this can help quite a bit.

G10 is the retraction code so if you do (in cygwin on pc, or in unix, or on mac) grep G10 myprint.gcode | wc Then the smallest number that wc outputs is the qty of retractions. In windows it's easier to do: find "G10" myprint.gcode > g10s.txt Then open g10s.txt and see how many lines are in the file (most text editors tell you what line you are on) or in microsoft word you can ask how many words/lines/characters are in the document (my daughter uses that all the time when writing an english paper).

Not sure what default temp is for PLA. I think maybe 220C.

GOOD CATCH! I didn't notice the .6mm shell. So that's the whole problem. The infill is also trying to extrude .6mm wide lines with a .4mm nozzle. Which you can do if you slow it the hell down. Change shell to .6mm and change the speed to half the speed on the graph I pointed out to you. This is an easy one to fix now that I see about the .6mm shell!

Please take a picture much closer. Try a cell phone as cell phone can get very close. It *could* be backlash. But then I would expect the shell passes to have gaps in spots. Also I would expect the infill to have two-lines then gap. Then two-lines, then gap. I don't see that but maybe I need better photo. Are all 3 parts in the image above at 50mm/sec and slower?

This is standard underextrusion. I've seen it many many times. There are many causes - for example as you get to the last 1/3 of the spool of filament the radius gets tighter and the PLA gets stuck more in the bowden and especially in the white teflon isolater just above the nozzle. One quick fix is to simple print slower and/or hotter (half speed, print at 240C, don't go over 240C). Another quick fix is to put the filament spool on the floor as the angle it enters the feeder is a problem (lots of friction). Other causes are clogged nozzle, deformed isolator, ground up filament at feeder (due to sprint too tight, too loose). The most likely cause is probably a deformed isolator. You can take it out and examine it, maybe drill it out with a 3mm or 4mm drill. Ask UM for a new one (the newer ones are glass filled and withstand deformation a little better). Again, another likely cause is gunk in the nozzle. Especially if you recently switched from ABS to PLA. There's a great test to see how your machine is doing. It's important to do the test at 230C. Anything above 6mm^3/sec is pretty good. If it fails at 5mm or lower you should fix it: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4586-can-your-um2-printer-achieve-10mm3s-test-it-here/

Oh and check out this wonderful guide that IRobertI made: http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide

When printing the top of an object that comes to a small top, such as the tip of a sword, the nozzle never leaves the part so the plastic never has a chance to cool and you get a big melted blob. The quickest simplest fix is to enable "cool head lift" in the advanced settings. However this has a different problem because it continue to extrude despite retraction because the heat reaches further up and causes expansion. then when the head comes back it adds a small string to your part. Which you can cut off with a razor later. To get a more perfect result you can print two objects at the same time that are the same height so that one is cooling while the other is printing. Or even better print one or two towers (maybe 1cm diameter) on either side of the part and choose "print all at once" from tools menu. For future problems you will get faster results if you post to the forum versus driving somewhere but both are good choices. Try to post a picture next time also.

It looks like underextrusion. It could be backlash/play but I don't think so. The strange thing is the shell passes look perfect - not underextruded. So I'm thinking your infill speed must be faster than your shell speed. This is adjustable in Cura - I recommend infill speed is 0 which makes it the same speed as shell. Having said that, you need to be careful about how much the printer can extrude. 80mm/sec at .2mm with a .4mm nozzle - multiply those 3 numbers together and you get 6.4mm^3/sec. That is pushing the limits of the UM2 if you are printing at 230C. If you are printing colder than 230C then you are beyond what most UM's can do (maybe you have extra low temp PLA - every color is different). Here is a graph (dark blue line) showing max speeds for .2mm layers for a given temp. Try to stay at half the speed of the blue line for your temperature: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4127-um2-extrusion-rates-revisited/ So either slow it down or raise the temp (check the graph!).

Excellent writeup! One problem with this: ;Put printing message on LCD screen M117 Printing... ;LAYER:43 G0 F13200 X92.25 Y136.17 Z13.20 ;TYPE:WALL-INNER G1 F2700 X91.17 Y136.16 E4987.93047 The red part above will have the extruder try to rotate 4.9 Meters of filament! So you should add a G92 E4987.93047 just before this to tell the extruder that you are already at this position. I like your method #1. I have only tried method #2. I never tried counting layers from a known layer! smart! Well on the Ultimaker2 if your bed is not at room temperature then you must leave the printer on and keep the bed at the same temperature. But yes, I've done this. Gone to bed and continued the print the next day. So if your bed is at 60C you MUST KEEP THE BED AT 60C UNTIL THE PRINT IS DONE. If not it will very likely pop off the bed when it gets cold. Here's my version of the same thing: read all gr5 posts here: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4213-ideas-for-recovering-failed-prints/?p=34788 post #9 here has specific code change example for um2 (ultigcode): http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/5269-um²-printing-more-than-24-hours-non-stop/?p=46704

The upper left corner area is underextruding. The pattern looks like your feeder is skipping backwards. Please verify this the next time you print - when it is printing that area look at the back of the printer and watch the feeder. It probably skips backwards occasionally in that area. This is by design. The feeder skips backwards when the pressure in the nozzle gets too high. On the Ultimaker Original it didn't do this and the problem was the filament got chewed up and the print completely failed. At least here you just have some underextrusion (not sure which is worse). Anyway what is the fix? Well why is the nozzle pressure so high? 1) Probably leveling. I would raise the bottom right corner slightly (which lowers the top left) and also maybe lower the other two screws (by a smaller amount). And try again. 2) Also it helps if your first layer is .3mm thick as leveling isn't as critical. This is the default in Cura. 3) Also it might help if you print hotter (no more than 240C - try 240C for first layer) but not much help because there isn't much space for that plastic to go. As you get higher up in the printing the layers should be fine. By the time you get to the 3rd or 4th layer it should be looking good again. I guess the main advice is to get leveling perfect and make sure bottom layer is at least .3mm thick. What is your bottom layer thickness in Cura? (initial layer thickness) What is your layer height for the rest of the part? How thick is your part in CAD? (how many layers in layer view are for the base of the part?)

You were there last year as well! It will be good to see you again.

I feel like the rabbi in the story where the dad complains that his one room house is too small for his family and the rabbi has him move in the mother in law, the goat and his brother and it just gets worse and then he tells the guy to move the mother in law, goat and brother out and now the guy is happy even though he is back to the original situation. I like the print best so far when it had the moire pattern and had more polygons. Most people print flat sided objects and those come out nicer. But I can see that this subtle curve has it's own beauty to it and Cura shouldn't be changing/rounding/combining those polygons and should just print it the way it was created in CAD. This means you might want to switch slicers.

1) What temp did you print that cylinder? It's supposed to be at 230C for a fair test. Looks like a pass to me. Anything above 5mm^3/sec is a pass in my book. So you got moire. Still there. You also got strange bumps. 2) Is your shell at least .8mm? Cura ignores lines if they are shorter than a certain distance or if combining two lines into one deviates less than some threshold it combines them. This creates artifacts like these bumps. I'm really not sure what to do about them. You could try a different slicer like the one that comes with repetier host maybe. Or you could try Cura version 14.03 which doesn't do quite as much combining I think. You can get older versions of Cura here: http://software.ultimaker.com/old/ Actually if you really really hate those bumps and if you really hate the moire pattern I guess I would put my own pattern on there on purpose which would basically force Cura to print every line as it was in the CAD. Maybe add some interesting cross hatch pattern or something. Regarding the top of the knob - I didn't realize it wasn't flat. because it slopes you get all those layers like a wedding cake. You can make that a bit better with thinner layers (.1mm) but then it will print much slower :( I recommend 35mm/sec as a compromise speed as now I'm convinced printing slower won't help those bumps. It's a slicing issue.

9mm^3/sec is actually normal. That's a pass. Assuming you printed it at 230C. If you printed it much hotter then I would say it was a partial fail. If you printed much cooler (say 220C) then your printer is superior to most.

@ian - will you even read this? You are hardly on the forms anymore :( Well the traffic HAS NOT SLOWED this summer. It's crazy. I finally gave up reading every post. It's just too much. I try to only read for an hour per day. This topic I only check once per week. As far as rumors/buzz - somewhere on these forums I read that UM will have an announcement at Makerfaire NYC which is on September 21. So that's the only "buzz" I've got. Oh - and Sander mentioned hiring even more staff for support desk - I guess they got pretty far behind. Hopefully they can catch up the backlog. Also that way they won't get 3 tickets from the same person thinking they didn't get the first ticket which is now a week old and if they do it will be more obvious that the same person just created 3 tickets. Hopefully. I think UM2 biggest issue now is DHL/Fedex. They need to encase each printer in a steel box with diagonal 1 inch steel supports. lol. It needs to be able to withstand a drop test from an airplane at 10,000 meters. I've been seeing lots of posts with UM2's with the crap beaten out of them. Broken displays, warped printers, Rods no longer parallel. We are talking many mm of warp to the gantry.

After speaking with Illuminarti about your issue I'm thinking your spring is too loose. In the top left corner of your feeder there is a hole. If you stick a (2mm?) hex wrench into there there is a screw you can turn. You want to turn it counter clockwise to make the spring tigher. Try going down one or two marks with the white indicator. Please let us know if this helps:

In first picture above - yes that is completely normal. It's perfect. In lower picture, that is what I would expect if the head was hot (over 110C). what happened is the filament was still hot as you pulled and it stretched. In lower picture if you had let the head cool to 90C and *then* pulled you can get a mold of the nozzle. It is good to do and informative. Can you explain again? Does it only happen after 1 hour? Does the filament get squished a lot? As much as the first picture? You could: 1) Try turning off retraction. 2) In retraction expert settings set the "minimal extrusion" to a much higher value. A value of .02 (default?) with travel of 4.5mm means you can travel back and forth over the same spot on the filament 4.5/.02 or 225 times. Try maybe .5mm or 1mm (8 and 4.5 times in and out of the feeder) or even 4.5 (never go back and forth on the same spot of filament more than one extra time). I did a print with where each spot of the filament retracted 8 times. On average. It was fine. On the UM2. Same light blue filament from ultimaker. It was a 30 hour print.

ABS? PLA? Just increase flow by 20%? Delamination is rare in PLA. Is this ABS?

Here's another video teaser - much longer but more details. Pretty much anything that was in 2012 makerfaire came back for 2013 and will probably be there this year also. You can look up which exhibitors are planning to show up.