gr5

Please let us know what you learn. I would start by playing with the tension. The feeder has two white indicators to indicate tension and a screw accessed from the top that adjusts the tension. Do a google image search for "um2 feeder". Oh - and try sliding the sleeve about 1mm in or out on the shaft.

Like I said - mine is so quiet I can't hear it in a quiet room from 5 feet. The refrigerator in the next room over is MUCH louder. A hurricane in comparison. I have good hearing. It's basically silent. So maybe peel off the sticker and add a drop of oil and put the sticker back on. Or maybe order a new fan. Someone said this one works: http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/MC25060V2-000U-A99/259-1573-ND/2757803

There are several leveling bugs that are fixed in Cura 14.07 (not sure the firmware version). One is that after you level you get one calibration but then after every power cycle you get a second calibration value. Another bug has to do with the bed being all the way down when you start the procedure or when you home. Either bug could cause you headaches so definitely update firmware. Once you get leveling close, it's best to not use the procedure ever again in my opinion. Just use the screws to get the final .01mm accuracy (if needed).

It's called "atomic method" because it was first mentioned by "mostlyAtomicBob" on this forum. On other forums they call it "cold pull".

Most important: DON'T LET THE GLASS BED COOL!!! Once it does the part will probably pop off the bed and there is no way to continue. Then read above posting.

continuing resuming rescuing failed print First you need to use pronterface to find the exact layer to continue on. Pronterface is here: http://koti.kapsi.fi/~kliment/printrun/ read all gr5 posts here: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4213-ideas-for-recovering-failed-prints/?p=34788 post #9 here has specific code change example for um2 (ultigcode): http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/5269-um%C2%B2-printing-more-than-24-hours-non-stop/?p=46704

Some teaser videos about one or more announcements (to be made Thursday night) were posted recently. 3 of the 4 videos were posted. One more to be posted soon. Here's some screen shots and discussion about what it might all mean: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4939-a-coffee-between-friends-how-was-your-day/?p=68723

I think you are reading too much into it. I think it's 4 videos about one thing. They are all called "going global" so they are probably all about announcing global related stuff. One of them was about USA or "north america" or something? Maybe there is another one about some other country or maybe not.

What's the radius of curvature at the tip of each gear? That's the same as your needed nozzle radius. Measuring roughly with my fingers I'm going to guess 0.1mm. That would mean you could print it on a UM Original if you bought a 0.2mm diameter nozzle. I'm not sure if it would be strong enough for your needs but probably it would be. The normal nozzle for the UM Original and UM2 is .4mm. .2mm nozzles work but they are more likely to clog. But many people have had good success. I don't think you can go any smaller than .2mm. You could print this part on the b9creator easily but I don't know if the resulting material is strong enough - I have heard that the resin is somewhat brittle: http://b9creator.com/ Or the Form1. You could print this part through shapeways.com also.

Welcome! I guess this: http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide There have been issues with the filament getting ground up if you have lots of retractions on printers sold in the last month or so. It's very unclear what is going on. Spring too tight? Too loose? Different knurled sleeve? Here's some (unhelpful?) pics: Marks made by 3 different UM2s - the pink left one is the one that grinds up filament. The other 2 can do 10,000 retractions on 8 meters of filament. I don't get much (any?) dust. Also I never used those quick print settings ever. I don't recommend them especially since you probably know most of the lingo and you can hover the mouse over anything you don't understand. As far as the fans - the 3rd rear fan is always on. It comes on even before the lights. Is that what you meant? It was probably just quieter the first time you turned it on. Mine is so quiet I can't hear it more than 5 feet away but some of them are noisy. The side 2 fans should not come on when you power on - if they do the darlington is probably blown.

Here can be found photos and details on getting best possible robot - this was on UM Original but if someone else is reading this, UM2 can print just as well: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/6764-printed-test-robot-has-erratic-edges/

Very interesting. Please do "save profile..." and post the resulting ini file here.

There is a small circuit board on the print head. There are 3 wires. One is ground - should be 0V. One is 5V power. The third reports back the temperature to the board underneath the UM. It should report 0V for 0C and 5v for 500C and 200mV for 20C (room temperature). Measure that voltage and make sure it is correct. You may have a bad thermocouple or the little board on the head could be defective also.

Daid who posted above wrote Cura and also modified Marlin quite a bit to get it to work for the UM2. He is pointing out a flag that tells Marlin to ignore the limit switches for anything other than homing. You can comment that out and rebuild Marlin if you want. Marlin has software endstops. Once you've homed the 3 axes you should be fine. Also the UM Original and UM2 are very tough - you are unlikely to damage your machine by going beyond any of the endstops. I think every UM Original and UM2 has gone beyond a few endstops within a year of use. Mine certainly both have.

Pictures please. Of cura slice view and normal view and maybe some arrows showing a problem spot.

That would be nice.

Maybe your temp sensor is off by 30C. Heat nozzle to 110C - keep temp there for one minute. Then put your finger in water and touch one drop to nozzle tip. It should be very quiet but if you look closely you should see lots of fast moving boiling bubbles. If not your temp sensor might be defective.

Please post a picture otherwise we have no idea what you talk about. 1) It could be you turned on spiralize like daid says. 2) Something else? 3) It could be pillowing maybe? First picture here: http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide

McMaster sells a pack of 10 for $2.29, Part # 51055K413.

I recommend 245C for nozzle. No fan. 100C for heated bed if you have one. UM Original or UM2?

Doesn't work - for example if you scale up X,Y,Z by 2X now the nozzle has to output 8 times as much for each line. Plus if your layer height was .2mm now it's .4mm which doesn't look so good. If you only increase by 10% it might work but you need to scale up the E axis (extruder) by 1.1 cubed or 1.33. Anyway, no, there is no such feature. If you scale up or down it's really best to completely reslice it at the new scale. The printer is really designed to print exactly .4mm wide traces of plastic (it will go down to .2mm or up to .6mm just fine but really .4mm is the best).

Local glass store? I don't recommend this for heated bed. It's not necessary. You can use regular glass as long as you give it space to expand. Also don't throw water on it when it is at 100C as that will likely shatter the glass. Regular glass is cheap enough that you can buy 10 sheets of regular glass and that will last you 10 years of printing versus one sheet of pyrex glass. Even Ultimaker doesn't use borosilicate glass for their heated beds. I think they use tempered glass.

UM original or UM2? You want the drawings that show the corners and holes? Or do you want to know max print volume?

You adjust the gap by rotating the nut. The nut is not a normal nut - it is round instead of hexagonal and it has 6(?) holes through it that you can use a tool on to rotate the nut. The purpose of the nut is to raise or lower the nozzle - this is important for dual extrusion to get both nozzles the exact same height within .01mm or so. However dual extrusion has never worked on UM2 so it's a feature not needed. My impression is that the gap should be 1mm *or smaller*. This is to keep the spring from pushing too hard and deforming the isolator. Maybe there is another reason that I don't know about. BE VERY CAREFUL WHEN ROTATING THE NUT. It is not strong - there are brass and/or copper parts involved which are soft and easily ripped. Only rotate when the nozzle is at 180C (because the PLA acts like a strong glue in the threads if not hot) and if you seem to be twisting with much force consider taking it apart enough so the spring is removed also. In fact it's easiest to rotate the nut by sticking a thin screwdriver through two opposite holes which you can only do if you remove the white isolator first. Although this design is meant to be rotated with the head assembled so you can "level the 2 nozzles".

These numbers don't seem quite right to me. I suspect this table is meant to work with a 10k resistor instead of a 4.7k resistor. There are many 10k thermistors out there all with very different properties which mean each manufacturer would need a different table. Same thing is true of 100k thermistors. So I suggest you get only the recommended reprap 100k thermistors. Much more information here: http://reprap.org/wiki/Thermistor#RRRF_10K_Thermistor