gr5

You can take it out and file it flat and drill it out. You can ask for a new one from UM. You can ignore it. It can cause underextrusion if it is too severe. You can test how well your printiner is doing. You need to be able to print at least 5mm^3/sec of PLA at 230C: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4586-can-your-um2-printer-achieve-10mm3s-test-it-here/ If you can't hit 5mm I would try to fix it. This part deforms under temps over 240C. Very gradually over many days. UM has a newer one that is a little more resistant to deformation that started shipping this past Sprint I believe. Also I think you should do the Atomic Pull at a lower temperature than whatever you have been doing. Maybe another 3C cooler until it comes out a little less stretched. And keep doing it until all that black gunk is gone.

Having the feeder diamond pattern embedded into the filament is normal. Having bite like chunks removed is not. Which is it for you?

I believe "top" and "infill" checkboxes do nothing in spiralize mode.

That's my theory also. Reheat the solder joints on that connector. Be warned there may be a "violates warranty" sticker on the connector on some of the newer UM2s. If not go for it. If there is a sticker contact UM Support first. What country are you in? It makes a huge difference regarding support. Please update your profile settings location to indicate your country *and* then let us know if you have the sticker.

It's a little dangerous to take parts off a blown board as one of those parts might be the "bad" part. check that the regulator has 19V, gnd, 12V on the 3 pins. If a freshly replaced part still has < 1V on the 12V side then feel the parts - one of them is probably getting very hot. That's the bad part that is causing a short. Meanwhile your regulator might blow up again. So don't wait too long. If however you have 12V just fine then the arduino should power up. If not then the arduino is probably bad or the 12V isn't reaching the arduino (it doesn't have to go very far!).

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Just don't try to shove 20 cubic mm of plastic through the nozzle per second and you should be fine. Also not so cold. Print hotter and slower. Note that Joris who invented spiralize has a larger nozzle - around .8mm or 1mm. He makes cups. Lots of cups.

First of all realize that spiralize prints the wall with ONE PASS so having a shell of 1.2mm is the equivalent of 300% flow! That's a lot for that tiny nozzle. I recommend thinner - maybe .9mm shell. Also raise the temp! Raise the hell out of the temp. I would print at 240C. You won't have stringing issues and you don't seem to have too much overhang in that model so go for it. Let the PLA flow like honey! 210C flow 110 shell 1.2 and .2mm layers and 75mm/sec is wow. 1.1*1.2*.2*75=20mm^3/sec. You need a .8mm nozzle at 240C to achieve that. So you are going to have to also slow it down. Maybe do 1mm shell, .1mm layer height and 50mm/sec? Try to keep your flow at 5 cubic mm and slower and your temp at 230C or higher for that kind of volume speed.

If you choose the gear bearing then all submissions should include a video showing it spin IN BOTH DIRECTIONS with very little friction. Also the video should show the bearing under load if possible just for fun.

The printer has "software end stops" enabled. So, yes, it's a software thing. I forget the XY dimensions but I think 225 and 235mm. You can command the printer to go to various positions (220,225,230,235) and see if it hits the other side. You won't break anything. The printer is tough that way - many times I've moved X or Y axis farther than it's supposed to go. It makes a loud scary noise but nothing is damaged. You can hook up the printer do your computer with USB, go to print window in Cura and configure it for "pronterface" mode and then send gcodes: G0 X10 moves X axis to 10mm from home position.

First of all please indicate what country you live in - go to profile settings, location. This affects what kind of help you get. Trust me on this - it is worth doing. You should have been more gentle with the wiring. You only have to heat the PLA up to about 100C (boiling water) to remove it all. Heating the head to 150C would have helped quite a bit on the removal also. Continue to take the head apart - you need to remove the very skinny screw to get the heater and temp sensor out. I would dip it all in 100C water before sliding out the heater. You can get a new temp sensor (and possibly heater) from Ultimaker at support.ultimaker.com. Or you can build your own. The important piece is a PT100. You can get this anywhere in the world. All PT100 temperature sensors have the exact same characteristics. "PT" stands for Platinum. The heater is harder to find. The main cause of your problem was probably that the part came loose possibly and the material kept coming out of the nozzle. For hours. It backed up into the head. This happens sometimes but usually people get it cleaned up without damaging anything. It has never happened to me.

I managed to make a similar pattern in sketchup which shows all the polygons:

Holy crap! That simple knob has 88,000 polygons! I think you can get it down to a few hundred. The printer is trying to print all 88,000 polygons. That's where the moire pattern comes from. Meshlab is extremely smart about reducing polygons. If two polygons are *almost* on the same plane (say .000003 degrees different) then it is more likely to combine those 2 polygons into 1 versus two polygons near a corner. Or you can try using rhino to do this. Try to get the number of line segments on a corner to be maybe 6 at the most. You have about 40. More than 10 and Marlin can't handle it very well and slows down on each corner causing overextrusion and a bad look to the part. Marlin can only look ahead about 10 line segments and has to be ready to stop so it starts slowing down 10 segments ahead if they are close together. You have 40 line segments in 1mm. That's just too much for Marlin's tiny little computer to handle.

There are many "parametric" cad programs. Like solidworks. Or openScad. It simply means you can assign a parameter to a particular dimension so that other's can later adjust that parameter. openSCAD is what power most of thingiverse's "customizable" objects. In customizable objects you can modify lots of parameters such as hole diameter, part height, diameter, length, width, height - whatever the designer included as a parameter for the object. For example my favorite designer, emmett, does everything in openscad - he did the "heart gears" and his gear bearings which you can set the number of teeth and gears and some diameters: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:53451 But 90% of the stuff out there is has no parameters. Anything done in openscad is infinitely parameterizable as it is more of a programming language than typical CAD software.

Um - this is a good thing, right? You can remove all the glue and brim - that will make them stick less. Clean off the glue with glass cleaner to get all the glue off before you print. Let the glass cool to room temp and parts tend to pop off. However I *like* that they stick like hell. I remove parts by letting them cool completely to room temperature and I use a stainless steel putty knife that I sharpened to razor sharpness using a file and sand paper. They tend to pop off. Even with glue and brim. Also if you set the glass temp to room temperature the parts will stick EVEN LESS. Lol. This is funny because normally I am advising all the opposites! Here are tests I did measuring how well parts stick to glass: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/3404-printing-on-glass/

It converts 19V to 12V and then the arduino takes the 12V and converts it to 5V on the arduino. That part is supposed to be bent up into the air flow (it doesn't look bent up enough) according to the directions. That regulator is easy to blow up if for example the fan stops working/spinning. It gets very hot. To make it more "bullet proof" you could replace with a switching regulator part - costs probably 0.60 pounds instead of 0.30 pounds. Something like that. You want a regulator that takes in 19V, puts out 12V but I'm not sure of the current load. Also some people have screwed on heat sinks to that part so that it stays a little cooler. You can also destroy it if you short the 12V to ground for an instant while poking around with power on.

anon is correct. Any voltage well above 0V and well below 5V will work so you can use any pair of resistors where each is between 1K and 10K. Combine that with turning off heater and M302 (cold extrusion) and you can remove the temp sensor.

That will probably be even worse. Basically you want it dry but not too dry and more importantly you need to use it up within a year.

Here is a photo of my best robot and below is a link to all of the settings I used http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/3038-can-your-ultimakerultimaker2-print-such-quality/?p=28588

To upload picture click on "gallery" link in top left of this page, then UPLOAD button. Then edit your existing post or add a new one and click "my media" next to smile icon. You should follow your own posting - click "follow this topic" on the top right of this page. I hate answering questions like this when the questioner doesn't follow his own topic and he might not come back for a month. This is an extremely commonly asked question. You can get almost perfect results on the UM Robot with no support added and no changes to your printer but it's a more difficult print than most things you will print (hopefully). This question has been answered in many places on this forum already but the quick answer is: Layer height .1mm Print two robots at the same time to get antennas perfect. "cool head lift" is a good compromise if you are impatient. Speed 20mm/sec - yes this is slow. It's agonizingly slow. If you want absolute perfect quality you have to print this slow. I usually print 35mm/sec for high quality and 75 for medium quality but if you want to see what this baby can do print at 20mm/sec. Print cool - 190C. Never print this cool at higher speeds (50mm/sec and 190C is not going to cause underextrusion, ground filament, and or clogged nozzles). 210C should be cool enough and safer but 190C tends to print a little better. Print speed and temperature you will need to adjust a lot depending on quality desired and how much time you are willing to wait. Here is a graph of max print speeds for a given temperature and layer height (dark blue line): http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4127-um2-extrusion-rates-revisited/ I recommend printing at half the speed of the dark blue line. Note that you can print much faster at layer height of .1 than .2m It's about the volume of plastic - not the actual XY speed.

First take a photo of the box and the machine. I asked someone to contact you asap. Not sure if they will.

Make sure fan is at 100% by 1mm Z height. That will greatly help with the curling/lifted/raised overhang.

It's not too hard to continue a failed print - most important thing is to keep the bed hot so the part doesn't pop off when it cools. First you need to use pronterface to find the exact layer to continue on. Pronterface is here: http://koti.kapsi.fi/~kliment/printrun/ read all gr5 posts here: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4213-ideas-for-recovering-failed-prints/?p=34788 post #9 here has specific code change example for um2 (ultigcode): http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/5269-um%C2%B2-printing-more-than-24-hours-non-stop/?p=46704

What didier said. Look at the other side - they should be symmetrical. Your blue part is suffering from "play" aka "backlash". You can look up that term in wikipedia. Look at the blue part carefully - notice that the infill is not touching the shell and that every other pass touches and then there is a gap - this is exactly expected of play. More details here (posts #7 and #8): http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/1872-some-calibration-photographs/?p=14396 To fix the play on the UM2 first check the long belts - they are probably fine. More likely the short belts - one of them needs to be tightened. To do this is very easy - loosen the 4 screws that hold the motor then push down hard on the X or Y stepper until the short belts are tight again and tighten the 4 screws. The problems with the black part on the sides can be also explained by "play" if it was doing some passes clockwise, and other passes counter clockwise. The top layer of the black part looks like you printed with layers too think. I don't recommend going any thinner than .1mm as quality can get worse - same thing with the sides of the black part - instead of play that might be "too thin layers" or a third possibility: printing too fast. The slower you print usually you get better quality.

The bearing inside the print head? Or one of the 8 bearings pressure fit into the walls?