gr5

Thinner layers should help. Or alternatively consider reheating the ends after you are done. You could point a heat gun at the end of the bracelet where it delaminated until it remelts and smooths out to keep it from catching a layer on some clothing. Or you could dip the ends in boiling hot water for 20 seconds then pull it out and smooth it with something smooth and hard like a counter top or the hot glass of a UM2 set to 80C. I'm guessing that the issue is more about the surface not being smooth enough such that it catches in clothing. You should ask them to take a photo with a cell phone and text it. Cell phones tend to be very good at macro photography.

Add "php" to any searches you do Ian. For about $80 per year you can get a bluehost web site (many websites actually) and they have unlimited storage and unlimited bandwidth and are a great company (I've been using them but have no other affiliation). If you find photo sharing software that runs on php then it will be easy to install onto bluehost. Like most hosting sites they can do mysql or postgresql database back ends. For example this bulletin board we are on right now - the umforum - it is done in php with a database to store all the posts. Maybe you should describe your requirements and maybe I can produce a website for you for royalties only. Is this a money making plan or not? I've done websites before and it's basically my job. My client for the last few years has me doing all the software on a private website so I do lots of web programming.

I haven't printed ABS but many printers were printing ABS at the last 3dprintshow in NYC and the smell is really not that bad. If you print in a small 8x8 foot room (what country do you live in anon - please add it to your description in settings) with closed doors and windows - then yes. But if you are in a large house or building with open doors then probably not. They have ABS printers at schools and such - I've seen them at two local high schools and the people using them didn't seem to think it was a problem. But the buildings are of course huge. Even the classrooms alone have as much air volume as a small house.

It's worse than this - there are 2 coils and the max current varies depending on how far you are through a step in a sine wave/cosine wave pattern.

1) Try lowing bed to 60C. This will improve overhangs. 2) Try lowering speed to 30mm/sec. 50 is a good speed but 30 is even better. This should help some of those overhang bumps: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/1872-some-calibration-photographs/?p=24010 3) Make sure shell thickness is at least 0.8. 0.8 is two passes. One pass is not enough. No need to do 3 passes but no harm either. 4) To save time I would probably turn off infill completely but this won't help with quality. 5) Make sure side fans are working and at 100% well before it gets to the top of the feet where the overhangs start. 6) Check "cool head lift" to get the very tip top to be better. Or just fix it with a razor. Or print two at once side by side but this will add stinging issues - which I can help in another post.

Lol! I know what you mean!

In the post above, click on sander's picture and send him a message that way which will send him an email.

I don't think so. You would hear it in the steppers as well. Did you glue the lights away from the belts yet?

Needles can damage the teflon part so don't stick it very far into the nozzle. garry, you are going to have to take it all apart. If things are stuck you might need a hair dryer to heat things to around 80C. A heat gun will go over 300C which is too hot for some parts. Start by loosening the 4 screws completely, remove the red clip that holds the bowden, push down on the outer ring and pull up on the bowden. It might be stuck due to filament but keep going. Remove the 4 screws, loosen the side fans and let them hang. Remove the 2 screws holding the rear fan in place - be careful as there is a strong spring in there. Remove that spring and the white teflon piece (it might be stuck). Remove the nozzle by rotating that ring with the 6 or so holes through it. The nozzle might need to be heated to around 130-180C to do this step. If you can get the nozzle loose, then let it cool, and remove that screw sticking out of it - or just loosen it enough so the heater and temp probe slide out. Now it gets tricky to get the filament out. You need boiling water or a hair dryer or something that heats the PLA up to at least 80C to get everything apart and get the bowden out.

Why don't you experiment and post your results (with pictures please).

There should be no limit to how close two parallel lines can be. Although temp/speed/acceleration will affect the flow so when the gap is 1/10 of the width of the nozzle (.04) if you over or underextrude by 10% it will fill or double that gap. However PLA shrinks as it cools and if it touches it will stick so if the PLA wall misses the other PLA wall by a micron it will then proceed to shrink by about 10% or .02mm on each side of the laid down trace of PLA. So I guess gaps of smaller than .02mm are impossible without getting a smaller nozzle drilled out. For breaks in a wall (like windows) there is also theoretically no limit but this is more difficult - especially if the slicer decides to bridge that gap with a non-extruding move because the extruder is not good at stopping. So if there is a non-extruding move I would say off the top of my head that gaps thinner than .5mm will be difficult. In fact you probably want to put a larger gap than desired into cad. But if you can get the slicer to approach the gap and leave the gap from the same side then the limit is to keep it from touching and how much PLA shrinks (around 10% from liquid stage maybe) - .1mm should be no problem. .04mm would be around your limit but very difficult because the liquid PLA bead will shrink about .02mm on each side. Any closer and the PLA will fuse and there will be no gap.

More like "stretched". Melted PLA acts somewhat like a rubber band and it gets pulled along and into the middle. Try around 1mm diameter to get .5mm hole and maybe 10.5mm to get 10mm hole. In other words try adding .5mm to every hole diameter.

The easiest fix is to swap two wires in that cable Robert showed you. The connector may be correct yet the motor wired wrong. There are 2 pairs of wires. Each pair goes to a coil in the stepper. You can swap the two wires in either pair but don't swap the wires in one pair for the wires with another. So swap the green/black pair *or* the red/blue pair. Another solution is to go here and build the default ultimaker configuration but swap the checkbox for the extruder direction (uncheck "invert axis"): http://marlinbuilder.robotfuzz.com/ The problem with this solution is that Cura comes with updates to Marlin occasionally and you have to keep rebuilding your own custom copy of Marlin.

My printbl spools have held together so far but I know what you are talking about. I had to make my own spool holder because the innermost diameter is too small.

Again - it's because of brim. In 13.06.4 I bet you had brim off.

You want the spring in your feeder at the minimum force so make sure that the white square marker is all the way up. The white marker is visible from both the rear and from the side of the feeder - it should be as high as it can go. There is an adjustment screw set into the top which should be loose - it should be adding no pressure to the spring. I printed with this exact same light blue UM filament a very similar object and didn't get excessive grinding. Illuminarti also. I did over a kilometer of retractions! Each piece of filament when in and out of the extruder an average of 8 times. All for one print. No grinding problems. Could it be your extruder motor is tilted? There is a nut in the wall of the UM2 holding the panels together but it is under the extruder motor and for some people the motor is pushed away from the wall by a millimeter or so. This causes the shaft of the extruder to tilt such that when you extrude you get a spiral pattern up the filament. I would expect this to be more likely to grind up the filament on multiple passes.

Yes - I know - the original has a chunk of steel or something sticking out of the head. It looks awesome anyway. I explained how it was made to maybe 300 people. "You buy this special set of 'metalic' paints that aren't really metalic and you paint it with the bronze color first then you let it dry...". Everyone was surprised how light it was when I handed it to them. There must have been 1000 high school kids on the second day - any teacher who brought 25 or more kids got a free 3d printer for their school. The kids all thought that print was great.

The right side definitely looks worse - the right side doesn't get as much fan. I would re-slice this and make sure fans are at 100% by around 5mm off the bed. I think that's default. The gcode you are using probably has the fans coming on and off - that's some old slicer designed for ABS I think maybe. Kisslicer maybe?

It looks like fans aren't working. Or bed is at 75C. Or both. To test the side fans, click PRINT, and choose any print then immediately go to TUNE and then set fans to 100%. The two side fans should come on. As long as you stay in TUNE menu it will not print. You can hit power switch when done to prevent the print from starting. If the side fans aren't working then that's the issue. Slide up the black netting sleeve at the top of the print head and look at the 3 fan connectors. The wiring to the 3 fans each are black/red. The one with the short loop wire connecting two together are supposed to be for the side fans. The rear fan is always on - even before the lights come on.

Yes you can do it. It's not as easy. Clean the blue tape with alcohol first so it sticks better. The main problem is that ABS warps twice as much as PLA. So if you print something small like a UM Robot it's not too hard - just add some brim. But if you print something say 100mm across now it will tend to lift at the corners. A raft can help quite a bit - the raft flexes a bit and stretches so that the lifting energy is spread out over a large area. Enclosing the whole UM1 and warming with a light bulb to say 35C can help a little also. Most of the shrinking issues are from glass temp to air temp. So for PLA glass temp is around 50-60C. For ABS around 100C. It's not that it doesn't shrink above glass temp, it's just that above glass temp when it shrinks, it shrinks "in place". It doesn't pull the sides inward as it is too liquidy to pull so instead each string gets narrower. basically. It's hard to put into words. But really if you will be printing things wider than 100mm at the base you should get a heated bed. UM plans to offer a heated bed upgrade kit for the UM Original. Soon. Soonish. Not sure when. Hopefully this summer?

because the forum search sucks. It ignores things 3 chars or less. I hate that feature. Try google: in google use: site:umforum.ultimaker.com And then add to that whatever you want to search for such as "abs without heated bed"

The light flickering is normal. It happens when the temperature of the bed approaches the goal temperature - within something like 15 degrees. The amount of energy going to the bed is considerable and when the power is turned on and off 10 times per second that is plenty slow enough for eyes to detect. You can turn the LEDs off if you want. About the fans going on and off a lot - that's probably in the gcode - did you download a gcode file or slice your own? The original robot gcode file was not sliced with cura. It's a slicer that turns the fan on and off depending on all kinds of things like how long the layer will take to print, if there is bridging happening, or overhangs.

100mm/sec is kind of slow for a travelling speed. It's nice to have a high travelling speed because you are less likely to get stringing as it "breaks" the string. You should be fine at 250mm/sec and slower. 350mm/sec seems too fast but 150mm/sec should be fine.

I'm pretty sure it is *not* borosilicate glass. Borosilicate glass doesn't expand as much as regular glass when heated and so can with stand huge temperature changes and so is used for cooking. But it costs more than regular glass.

Printing slower will improve quality more than printing colder. 210 is already an excellent temp. But this quality that you show is good enough for me personally.