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Strange. Well add a drop of light petroleum oil to the axis and push it back and forth over the oil. See if that helps. I think the linear bearing isn't a typical "linear bearing" in that it needs to allow the shaft to rotate also. So it is simply a copper sleeve (I think - maybe - not sure). If you loosen the 4 screws on top several turns you can probably slide the bearing out and slide it along by itself. Maybe it's being twisted because maybe your UM2 is crooked (was dropped during shipment) and the two rods going through the head aren't square anymore. But that would affect the X also. More likely something with the belts? All the rods can be (and should occasionally be) oiled. But not the Z screw - that should have grease only. Any light petroleum oil is fine preferably with no additives (WD40 has additives).

In other words, maybe JHinkle should do this. UM is open source - people can download the plans and make it and UM gets zero money. This is a nice thing to the community. In return the community (me?) helps out and contributes in return. Some of the designs basically came from the community and not UM (for example the current extruder design on UM Original). Makerbot on the other hand is just out to make money (just my opinion of course) and so I would expect it's harder to get people to help out for free. Because UM is so nice, and because you will be helping other people - maybe you could post it on their wiki?

From the video it looks like you have 2 issues: 1) Levelling was slightly low so it's not sticking to the blue tape and instead sticking to the print head. 2) Axes are slipping. #1 you can fix by just loosening the 4 screws a 1/4 turn. #2 is trickier. You could mark all 12 pulleys and rods with a sharpie to see which are slipping. Or you could just tighten the hell out of them. Or do both. You should tighten the set screws so much that the steel shaft of the screwdriver is twisting. Alternatively you can replace the black set screws with the shiny ones that came seperate. The shiny ones have a sharper point and work better although I'm still using the black ones just fine. Make sure you get all 6 on each axis - the two hardest to get to on the short belt are the most likely to be slipping. Also add a drop of light oil to the 6 rods and also the 2 vertical Z rods and make sure you greased the Z screw with the green stuff. Light oil should be mineral oil with as few additives as possible (WD40 has some cleaning additives that should be avoided but it's probably okay). More on how I level: leveling here is defined as setting the Z height and also leveling. It's one procedure that does both at once. Optionally heat up the nozzle to 180C because a cold nozzle shrinks and you will be setting the bed to the wrong height. Make sure tip of nozzle doesn't have any plastic on it or you may level to the wrong height. I usually prefer to level with a cold nozzle but if you want extra accuracy then use hot nozzle. If you have a heated bed that should also be warm for the same reason. Home the z axis only. If you must home all 3 then you need to disable the steppers once it's done so you can move the print head by hand. Move the head as close as possible to each of the 4 screws in turn. Once at a screw tighten the screw and then slip a piece of paper between the nozzle and the print bed. Make sure the paper slides very freeley. Then loosen the screw until the paper gets slightly stuck. You want the paper to easily be able to slide in and out under the nozzle with one hand pushing the paper. If the paper gets stuck it's probably too tight under there. While levelling try rocking the bed across both opposite diagonals to see if one of the screws isn't touching the bed and to see if the bed is "hung up" or stuck on the threads of a screw instead of on the screw head. Repeat this procedure for the other 3 screws. Then go back to the first screw and repeat on all 4 screws again. Then repeat on all 4 screws again. Then again. It may take you 20 minutes to do this the first time but the second time you do this it should take much less time because you are both better at it, faster at it, and because there isn't much to adjust the second time. Note that the act of putting the screwdriver in the head can apply weight to the bed and change the height. You have to be careful to put as little weight as possible when testing with the paper. If you leveled with a cold nozzle you are done. If you leveled with a hot nozzle you should then loosen the 4 screws 1/8 of a turn to compensate for the thickness of the paper. Once done leveling rotate the z screw by hand to keep the nozzle off your bed. This makes it less likely to damage your bed surface and gives the nozzle room to leak. On a new ultimaker repeat this procedure before every print (at least every hour) because the print bed can move/droop like a new guitar string. After many months the droop slows down.

Also try pushing the head around with the power off. See if there is more resistance or noise in the Y direction.

UM Original or UM2? Can you post a video? I think you have to post it somewhere else and link to it maybe. Or gry clicking "gallery" in top left corner of this page and see if you can upload it there and then make a post and click "my media" next to smiley face.

Okay - new theory: Your nozzle diameter is smaller than mine. I just measured it with a camera as you can see. I used photoshop which measures sub pixels nicely at any angle. I measured 10mm for calibration and then measured the nozzle diameter vertically, horizontally, and both diagonals and averaged the 4 measurements. If I measure to the edge of the light blue I get: 0.43mm If I measure to where it looks like the metal starts I get 0.49mm. I started with a cold nozzle with a little filament hanging down and broke off the filament flush with my fingernail.

Yay!! I just read all these notes at once progressing through your 8 hours in my 2 minutes. At each step I thought the same thoughts as other people and then you replied with why their advice was wrong and I saw that you were right but eventually you got to the root problem (the print head). I think that most people were just lucky and their print head was square when assembled. It's been so long since I assembled mine I really don't remember having squaring issues.

Once in translate mode, don't scale the part. Only rotate it. The rotation handles are different. And then (again help in illuminarti's article) there are tick marks - if you hover over those you can rotat exactly 90.0 degrees instead of 89.7 or whatever.

Yes - I can barely print that fast. Without severe underextrusion. But that's right at the limit so quality is better at slower speeds. - George

That's the same thermistor as the OP. You want #define TEMP_SENSOR_BED 3 Or just use robotfuzz marlin builder like I said to in my first post on this thread. edit: Don't be confused with 56540G104F.

Aaron - too much information! He just wants to rotate. It's in Illuminarti's article well hidden in the section "annoyances & limitations": http://www.extrudable.me/2013/12/28/meshmixer-2-0-best-newcomer-in-a-supporting-role/

Headquarters. Everything built there. They are a small business. There is a video tour on their website.

If it's the noise I think it is, it won't affect quality. Is it worse or better as you get near max Y or min Y? The black belts go through pulleys. If things aren't square - if things aren't lined up correct, the belt can be at an angle. The pulley needs to be perfectly above or below the rod. The pulleys can usually be aligned a bit on their shaft but for the most part they are supposed to be restricted from moving by being connected to their shaft with a grub screw and there are spacers to keep the entire shaft from sliding outside of the UM - keeping it in place. So it's possible you might have to loosen one or both grub screws and align things. Or maybe this sound is something else.

You want this one: mendel-parts thermistor (4.7k pullup) It matches the table you linked to perfectly. http://marlinbuilder.robotfuzz.com/

Your choices are: 1) Clean from below 2) Clean from above 3) Remove nozzle completely and soak in acetone To do #1 you need something that can enter the nozzle tip. Either acupuncture needle or hypodermic needle. If you don't have those skip to #2 or #3. If you have a needle you can try these instructions (method 1). This also gets you started on the dissassembly and what to be careful of: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4118-blocked-nozzle/?p=33691 Acetone will dissolve ABS but not PLA. It may take many hours of soaking.

Almost certainly related to either X or Y axis but not both. I recommend you download and install pronterface: http://koti.kapsi.fi/~kliment/printrun/ Connect your computer to the UM2 using USB cable. Now you have very simple, very easy way to control things more precisely. Command the X axis to move 100mm back and forth. Repeat with Y axis. See if one axis makes the sound. I'm going to guess maybe the belts are riding up on the edge of the pulleys and then snapping back down. It happens so fast it is invisible. The fix is to line up the black blocks with the pulleys. Or maybe it's something different.

Mostly for firmware upgrade. Sometimes I do tests and diagnostics and control my printer through the USB using prontrface - a very simple to use GUI which can send any command or just move the axes around or whatever. You have much more control. For example you can cut power to an individual stepper, home only one of the 3 axes and much more. But I rarely have the printer connected to USB: printrun/pronterface/prontrface download: http://koti.kapsi.fi/~kliment/printrun/

Be careful not to scratch your nozzle. It's brass (or maybe copper?) which is a soft material. Maybe you can make a feller gauge out of lead or something softer than copper/brass?

.1mm. When you level the UM2, Cura assumes you are .1mm above the glass. However, when you start a print, with experience, you can tell right away if you are too close or too far on the first layer. if you are too close it will print wider than .4mm. It will print thinner than you requested (so thin you can see through it or barely see it). Also it is likely to build up too much pressure and the extruder will slip backwards. If you print too far you get skinnier than .4mm and you can see the gaps between lines on the first layer. It prints the brim first so you can see this immediately before it even gets to the actual part. The UM2 bed seems to be very consistent from day to day (unlike UM Original which droops from day to day and changes with humidity). So I can level it once and ignore leveling for weeks.

It needs the card. A typical print might be 100MB and the mega2560 doesn't have anywhere near that kind of memory. The computing power of the Arduino mega2560 makes a cell phone look like a super computer. However there are people experimenting with ARM technology (the computer in a cell phone). People who don't work for Ultimaker but Ultimaker is all open source and these other people are open source so... it's going to happen. It's being watched carefully. It's exciting. With ARM technology we could have some things a cell phone has - like a nice little color touch screen and wifi.

This is an easy one - but next time consider posting a picture. Go to the top left of this page, click "Gallery". Upload a picture then on your next post click "my media" next to the smiley face.

People say the quality of the UM machines is far better than repraps but I don't know if this is true. Prusa is a good design - very popular among reprap people. go to meetup.com and look for reprap meetings and attend one. Check out their quality. There is one in the boston area once every 6 months or so - they are looking for a location for the next meeting. Also consider going to the NYC printshow next week. I will be there along with a few other's on this forum. And some Ultimaker people will be there. Check meetup.com to see if there are other reprap or 3d printing groups meeting in your area or between NYC and Boston. http://3dprintshow.com/ $35 if you go only Saturday. Printrbot will be there - they make very inexpensive printers. Probably other's also. And you can introduce yourself to me. Pikey is going Saturday. Illuminarti and I will be there the whole time.

Slower. The extruder is not powerful enough to go any faster at such a cold temperature. And if it was, the filament would grind up. The extruder can only push with about 10kg of force (which is a lot!). That translates to about 2000psi in the nozzle. When you get down to 205C the filament is more like toothpaste than like honey. Go to post #2 here to see more about what temperatures and print speeds work: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/1872-some-calibration-photographs/ I should warn you that I found that white pla was a problem for me and I found I could not get rid of the hangers at any temperature. Whereas most other PLA's were fine. Also you might want to increase your retraction a tiny bit - maybe to 5.0mm? I hope you have fan at 100% as that helps also. Also if the temperature hits 170C even for an instant I believe the extruder shuts down. So I recommend you keep the temp no lower than 180C. Did you know you can change the temp *while* you print? You don't have to start over each time. If you have ulticontroller you can use the tune menu. If you use cura, it's right there on the print window.

Well the OP, F1Carl solved his problem. You kind of hijacked his thread. But at least the problem has been diagnosed somewhat. Just no obvious fix. Have you considered a little light oil? It's okay for oil to get into the print head - it just goes right on through to the part and doesn't cause problems. However oil on the hobbed sleeve might be bad as then filament might slip. I dont' know.

1) Your circuit diagram looks good but you don't need that diode as there is already one on the board - in fact you can see it in the picture just above - next to the FET. 2) Well something is of course wrong. I would disconnect your 2 wires, get out the volt meter and measure the voltage where you connected the brown and blue wires - see if it clicks on to 19V as expected. Also that red LED should come on. Be very careful with power on your UM with no fan! IC1 - the 12V regulator - can get very hot pretty quickly. It's the one that you were supposed to "lift up" into the air flow. I recommend keeping the UM on for no more than 30 seconds at a time (and off for a minute) or you can keep touching IC1 to see how hot it is. When it gets too hot to touch (150C) it's time to cut power. One possible failure mode: you put the diode in backwards and 19V was sent across it and it damaged the fet. Seems unlikely - I think it would blow up that diode first. Or maybe you didn't screw down the blue and brown wires properly. Or many other things.