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This looks very printable. I think I would put the "bottom" edge down. The edge closest to viewer in first two images. Putting the "back" (side down in all 3 images) down should also work if the back is flat but this will be more tricky and I would add support in cad on the left and right edges of the tilted-up part and fill the sides solid on the tilted area instead of "X" shaped support.

Did you play with the "fix horrible" settings? Can you post the STL somewhere and provide a link?

So much! Welcome. Regarding cad software - I really love sketchup because I know it. It's pretty damn easy. It's free. It's from google. The free version doesn't let you do boolean operations (like subtract a cylinder from a square to make a hole). But it's pretty good. Also sometimes it gets slightly buggy when there is rounding error and your flat surface won't fill in because one of the 50 odd points is at the wrong z height but it's not visible. However if I were to do it again I think I might rather learn blender. But I really don't know what's the best. Blender is also free. If you want to "design STLs yourself with your own code" I recommend you look at openSCAD. It's a programming language to create STLs. It has an amazing debugger and it does variables, "for" loops and such and comes with lots of free libraries that have things like screws, gears, 3D fonts, etc. It's what "Emmet" uses over on thingiverse and he's my favorite person on thingiverse. He's amazing. Regarding strength. PLA is pretty damn strong. I'm always printing hollow objects with .8mm shell thickness and it's pretty strong. A .4mm string filament coming out of the nozzle, after it cools, is hard to break with my fingers. Having said that you could add "fins" to your lug holes. Or you could add hollow cylinders in the area that have an inner diameter of say .01mm and Cura will print "shell" up against it. Some slicers will change infill density and other parameters for certain areas of your print but of course these slicers are very complicated to use.

On the rare occasions I do my own support - I tend to do the exact same thing - rely on bridging - only support the outer edge on flat surfaces. The most difficult thing to support are *almost* flat surfaces that tilt upwards. Like under someone's chin on a statue. For those I tend to support left and right side of the chin. Or do zero support as the UM2 is pretty amazing. The surface will be rough but it will usually work. So basically I do what chopmeister does. But most of the time I use meshmixer which does an incomplete job of support (support points instead of support lines) but they break off extremely easy.

90mm/sec .2mm layer is pushing the limits on a UM1. The UM2 is weaker as far as I can tell. .1mm 50mm/sec is much more reasonable. I've been printing .1mm 30mm/sec at 220C for most things. I know - it's slow - but it comes out nice. There *does* seem to be some kind of problem with the UM2 extrusion rates, but it's very unclear what the problem is. Lots of people are working on it so I recommend you stay tuned. Unless you want to be the Hero who figures this all out. In the meanwhile, if you want pretty prints, it doesn't matter. Just print 30mm/sec, .1mm layer and 220C (or warmer). Some of the thoughts of what the problem might be: gunk in the nozzle - possible ABS from the black extruder housing extruder issues including: weak stepper motor, filament rubbing much too hard against housing, bearing not spinning due to being too tight against outer wall, or inner pieces, white tension arm not applying pressure due to 4 extruder screws too tight, filament stuck on reel or coming in at too strong of an angle. Or it might be that different people have different issues. 6mm^3/sec is pretty damn good (although others get more). That's the equivalent of 150mm/sec at .1mm layers or 75mm/sec at .2mm layers. No one has this figured out but even if it were fixed you probably still want to print 30mm/sec, .1mm layer and 220C if you want the most beautiful possible prints. Of course if you care more about functionality than beauty you are going to either figure it out yourself or wait a few more weeks until this is figured out. Or you can increase temp to 250C which is reasonable as long as you print at least 5mm^3/sec. If you *do* want to experiment you might start with cleaning out your nozzle with a hypodermic (or taking it off), or printing at 250C for a few minutes to possibly get out any ABS, or you could try this experiment as it might lend something (who knows): http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4222-pulling-force-of-um-extruder/?p=34887

Increasing temperature can usually fix layer adhesion issues. So if the crack is mostly along a layer boundary (and it sounds like it is) then you *might* have layer adhesion issues and higher temp can make a huge difference. Different PLAs need different temps. I don't know if translucent green normally needs higher temp. Layer adhesion is not so much an issue with PLA as it is with ABS and Nylon because PLA has a much lower glass temperature so it's much easier for the next layer up to melt the layer below enough for a good bond. But it's definitely worth trying. The only downside of going up to 230,240 or 250C is that you may get much more stringing in the gaps. So you might want to only increase the temp for a few layers. Or only increase it a little (to 230C). Or maybe you just have too much stress on the joint. Maybe you need to print your cell phone case the tiniest bit bigger - in other words maybe it's too tight. Maybe only .2mm bigger is enough. Maybe only in one or two spots do you need to enlarge. Look it over carefully. Or maybe you can enlarge the radius by actually removing material at the corner - thus spreading the forces over a little more area. Like when you drill a hole at the end of a crack to keep it from spreading:

The underextrusion is worst between the windows where it has to stop and start extruding. This means the pressures are pretty high in the nozzle and it takes a while for the PLA to come out of the nozzle and by the time the PLA starts coming out it is already past the the wall-between-windows and onto the next spot. So you need to either raise the temperature or slow down. I recommend raising the temperature to 220C. Or even 230C. Also you should do shell thickness at least .8mm. That way it prints the inside first and gets up to speed on the extruder before doing the outer (visible) wall. Are you doing shell .4? Or shell .8?

Don't confuse nozzle width with shell thickness. Nozzle width sets the offset from the edge - not shell thickness. If you set shell thickness to .8 (double nozzle thickness) it tries to do two passes on the *outer* surfaces. But if your part is less than 1.6mm it can't fit 2 complete passes.

60C? Really? My car gets hotter than that in the summer. Well you have to experiment. I would first google the material and see what others print it at. And if I can't find anything I would try 80C to start. Do "move filament" when the head hits 60C and try a few different temps. See how fast you can extrude at a few different temps.

Switching from ABS back to PLA can cause lots of clogs. It can take a few meters of PLA before you get all the ABS out of there - you need to print at 250C until it's all gone. You don't want any tiny strings of ABS in the bowden tube or in the feeder mechanism. You might even want to take that apart and clean out any bits of ABS in the teeth of the extruder. Really I recommend you either always print with PLA or always with ABS as switching can take a long time.

Alternatively you could tell cura your nozzle was .39 or .38 and it should be fine.

It should slice the object fine and print it fine, it just displays it wrong. This is a known bug and will hopefully get fixed soon. So uncheck the "center at (0,0)" setting so you can look at it in layer view and then if it looks good, check the box again and the resulting gcode should be fine.

Get a router bit at your local hardware store. One that is the same diameter as the existing slot.

This is an intermittent error that only occurrs if you push the head around in certain positions because of a loose wire. So sometimes you will see it and other times you can print just fine. The version of cura or using SD card has nothing to do with this. Until you fix the wiring this error will come back to haunt you.

I think Daid's newer support is of the mindset where you print with a second extruder something soluble such as HIPS. I think UM might come out with an official solution some day this year. But for people like you and me using only PLA, what to do? Well the old Cura still works great: http://software.ultimaker.com/old/ Version 13.04 is the newest version with the old slicer. Personally I like meshmixer, although it's not perfect: http://www.extrudable.me/2013/12/28/meshmixer-2-0-best-newcomer-in-a-supporting-role/ pay particular attention to how to rotate your part in the "annoyances & limitations" section and also note that there is a small error where he set layer height to "0.5" mm and it should be the layer height you print at e.g. .2 or .1mm.

I use meshmixer only to add support. Then I slice with Cura and disable support in Cura.

Do you have a volt meter? I would just plug it all in and then without touching anything metal, use a volt meter to measure from ground to various parts of the equipment. Put the meter in AC Voltage mode, 500V range. If you don't know where ground is on your wall socket, you can use a metal cold water pipe. If you find high voltages, switch that 2 pin power around the other way and test again.

I don't know. I doubt it as it would be kind of unfair. On the other hand they often sell printers after a show is over so they don't have to ship them back. I'm guessing they will just ship them all to the next show. Anyway, I'll be there at 3d print show. Will you be there Pikey? If so please introduce yourself. edit: Actually they often have extra UM Original kits for sale.

Here's a table that links temperature in C to Ohms: http://www.intech.co.nz/products/temperature/typert/-200to239c.gif So 63C means the Ultimaker thinks it is 124.4 Ohms. But if it is cooler - say around 21C then it should be 108.2 Ohms. Here's what you should do: 1) Turn off UM2 2) Flip on it's side, remove the bottom cover. It's only 1 screw I think. I've only done this 3 or 4 times so far. It's very easy. Remove the LARGER bottom cover only. 3) Remove the "temp3" cable - it's on the top of this image towards the right next to the 2 ribbon cables. 4) Measure the resistance of the cable - it should be about 108 ohms if things are working but I expect you will read closer to 124 ohms. If you get 108 ohms - put it back together and if it still reads the wrong voltage you need a new PCB - contact support.ultimaker.com If you read more like 124 ohms then take the bed apart again and measure at the bed. Measure at the actual temp sensor. Maybe you have to resolder the temp sensor pins? Maybe you need to replace this PT100 RTD part. They cost less than a stick of gum.

I would cut power, remove the connector on the bottom PCB and measure the resistance... The problem is I don't know what thermistor is in the Ultimaker 2. Someone posted it somewhere but now I can't find it (just searched). ANYONE OUT THERE KNOW WHAT THERMISTOR IS IN UM2 HEATED BED???? Simmon - I think you should ask this question of support: support.ultimaker.com Found it: PT100

No, you can't. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:11551 Every object on thingiverse has a license. When you post there are several licenses to choose from. The above link was posted by "Martijn Elserman" which happens to be the name of one of the founders of Ultimaker - I'm guessing it's the same Martijn Elserman. The license is a creative commons license and includes both: 1) Attribution clause 2) Non commercial clause The attribution clause means if you have to say where you got the design. You can repost this model or STL and can change the STL but you have to continue the same license. The non commercial clause means you can't sell it or make money from it in any way. At 3D printing shows, none of the companies there show off models on thingiverse that have this second attribute. If they do they get yelled at by both people at the show and their competitors and it looks bad for their reputation. This is just an example. Having said that - if you sell 3 of them for $1 each I don't think Martijn will care. But if you try to start a business selling these they might shut you down. You could contact him on thingiverse and get your own personal license/permission if you want. He doesn't post much on these forums so don't expect him to read this post.

Not obvious to me. I looked at all 3 pictures three times each. Please mark up the picture showing the current thing that is distorted and where it *should* be.

USB printing is not all that reliable - I hope you end up getting ulticontrollers. Or ultimaker2's. Some people have been able to print on up to 8 printers at a time with hardware and software - I really haven't paid much attention but I think octoprint and a raspberry pi can do a few printers at once? Maybe? And doodle3d is a wifi to usb thing where you can send prints to it and it does the printing even if you computer is off. I think.

If you read the instructions for that particular thing in thingiverse it recommends you download "stretchlet1" and turn off infill and top and bottom.

Certain file names are a problem. For example if the file is simply called ".gcode". It needs to be "a.gcode". Also certain characters are a problem. Do you have foreign language characters (non english)? Other files that aren't gcode files also can mess it up. But usually it's the card itself. It's best to only use the card that came with your UM. Occasionally there is something wrong with the UM. The problem is almost always the gray cables that connect between the main PCB and the controller. They can have cross talk issues - maybe moving them around a little will help - keep them separated.