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That looks exactly like normal underextrusion. Try printing slower. Here are photos of underextrusion: (post #1 gray picture, post #2 also): http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/1872-some-calibration-photographs/

ca marchera: 220/65. Pour trouver plus d'information: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/3404-printing-on-glass/ On peut utiliser un bâton de colle aussi.

I played with the support tool for an hour in meshmixer a while back and I wasn't convinced it was useful for 3d printing. For example the dragon wings you show - yes definitely it will keep them from moving around while printing, but the underside of the wing is going to have lots of strands of pla that loop/fall down way below the wing. I don't see how those occasional supports are going to help. It seems like you need continuous support lines along the edges so that cura can bridge from one support to the other creating the flat(ish) wing. The support feature seems meant to support flimsy structures, but not designed to support overhangs. But on the other hand it's hard to argue with the result you got so far. Perhaps the part you printed so far mostly only has bridging issues? And not overhangs?

1) Solidworks is to meshmixer as a smart phone is to a pencil. There are a lot more features and solidworks is used by professionals. Meshmixer is for fun. My opinion only. 2) Keep in mind that the nozzle diameter of the UM and UM2 is .4mm. Or a radius of .2mm. So your x/y resolution is basically limited to 200 microns. Going below 50 microns in the z direction gets a little silly at some point. If there are any errors in Z accuracy parts may look *worse* at higher resolutions and layers might get more noticeable instead of less.

The z movement is DEFINITELY the loudest thing by far on the UM2. People say it is whisper quiet but then a print finishes and the z axis goes all the way down it is pretty loud. I'm not sure why this is. The Z axis stepper is mounted I believe on the bottom panel and the bottom panel. seems to act like a sound board on a guitar or piano - amplifying the sound. I think the best solution would be to couple the Z stepper to the base with rubber washers maybe. Lowering the max Z acceleration and jerk might help. I would cut both by a factor of 3 to see if this helps. But I'm not sure that's enough. I think it's the mounting of the z stepper.

I'm not sure what you mean exactly but maybe I do. Many printers have X,Y (0,0) at the center of the printer but for the UMs, 0,0 is the corner and the center is whatever half the axis distance is. For example 100,100 will work for most parts but if the part is more than 200mm on a side you need to specify exactly half the axis limits which I forget. I think maybe 235 by 225 or 225 by 235?

Other people have insulated the heater block and/or tip and they all seemed happy with the result. I wouldn't do anything though that makes it more difficult to change the nozzle. Right now I can unscrew it (when hot of course) and clean it out easily

No. Don't touch speed. It never gets up to the requested speed. The move distance is only .1mm or .2mm. Instead increase the z ACCELERATION. Not the speed.

How much does this head weigh? Currently the acceleration for X/Y axis is 5000mm/sec (in comparison I think the makerbot is more like 200mm/sec but I could be wrong). The main advantage of the UM over other printers is the light weight head.

Sounds like your pulleys are slipping. I assume it is slipping only on the X or Y axis? Does that make sense? If not please post a picture because in that case I have no idea what you are talking about. So figure out which axis it is and then tighten all 6 pulleys for that axis. There are 6 (six!) pulleys. The two most likely to be slipping are the two that are hardest to get to: the short belts ones: the one on the motor and the one above. Tighten the heck out of those grub screws (aka set screws) and try again. Also consider maybe marking the pulley and shaft with a tiny dot to see which one is slipping.

You have a UM Original right? No heated bed?

ic's at 80C sounds fine. Even 100C. Head hitting side - sounds like you fixed it. Flickering lights is normal when bed is within about 10C of goal temp. It is PWM controlled meaning it turns on and off about 5 times per second which is visible and a little annoying (you can dim the LEDs if you want). I have never noticed any clicking sound from my PSU but I will check it next time. The head temp probe is definitely a problem. I recommend you contact support at support.ultimaker.com and get a new probe/cable assembly on Monday. You could get a whole new UM but it may have new issues. Better to fix the 1 thing that doesn't work.

Probably only 1 person in 30 who received a UM2 has an account on these forums so this is not a very accurate survey. I didn't know about these forums until after I had printed a few things with my UM Original. To answer your question: I already had 3d printing experience so it was pretty quick. I had two fans hooked up backwards (side fan always on instead of rear fan. rear fan comes on with side fan). I probably could have printed with it like that without any problems forever. But I expected this problem because I was reading the forums and I had it fixed in 1 minute - so simple - just unplug the fan and plug it into the other connector. That was it - other than that great prints starting with the first attempt.

More on bridging here - post #17 (currently last post): http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/1872-some-calibration-photographs/?p=25304

This is a nice design. It's not clear that you need any support. The UM can do what we call "bridging" as long as the lines are straight. The shorter the bridge, the easier but 4 inch long bridges are not a problem. I recommend trying this print with zero support.

Retraction may start where the shrinkage changes but several other things also start there. For example more "top" infill. And an air gap. Obviously shrinkage factors won't pull across an air gap. I'm pretty sure all FDM printers will do what you see. I'm pretty sure it is 100% caused by shrinkage and not over or under extrusion. But shrinkage is a bit complicated because it is shrinking while printing. I since learned that shrinking is very linear at all temps. In other words if you graph PLA density on Y axis versus temp on the X axis it is a relatively straight line. Also PLA in injection molding only shrinks .3% even though the shrinkage from 200C to 20C is over 1%. .3% agrees mostly with a change in temp from around 70C to 20C which means most of the shrinking issues start only when PLA gets to around 70C or colder. Above that temp it's close enough to a liquid to not be a issue. So a more interesting test for this piece would be to print it in either a heated chamber or at least on a heated bed at 70C. Also like Robert says, look to see if Cura is putting in some solid layers - solid layers are going to pull much harder than open infill at 20%. I would love to help print this part because this is an interesting topic for me but I am away from my printers until Monday night.

It shouldn't be hard to get that back left cover off but I still think it's more likely on the bottom. But check in either order.

If you print straight on the glass you need to heat to at around 40 or 50C (or hotter - 70C is recommended but 50C is fine). Are you using a piece of paper during levelling? It should just barely touch the paper enough to be slightly tighter than completely loose. In other words once it is tight enough that you notice restriction in movement then you are close enough. Also it is best to level with a hot nozzle and a hot bed for two reasons: 1) hot things expand so you want to level with same conditions as printing 2) sometimes there is a tiny tiny blob of pla on the end of the nozzle. If that is hot then it shouldn't hurt your leveling procedure. I have only levelled my UM2 once about a month ago and haven't messed with the levelling since then!

11.5mm is with it closed and with filament loaded. Maybe your screw is too long? You should be able to get 11.5mm with filament loaded and feeder closed. You could also test the pull strength. The feeder should be able to pull 22 pounds of force on the filament.

I'm planning on printing the Eiffel tower also. Some day soon. It's on my list and getting close to the top of the list.

Not sure but ABS shrinks much much more. You need a heated bed or even a heated chamber to print anything more than one inch across.

Yes. Simply print 2 robots - that fixes the antennas. All the other tricks were not a secret. The antennas are a special case because they are so small and they don't have a chance to cool as the print head is almost always touching them.

This is a common problem on UM2. It is usually caused by bad solder here: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/3735-a-fix-for-ultimaker-2-heated-bed-not-working/

The meshmixer support is very good advice. I often have the "warping upward hit by nozzle" issue. It doesn't happen on vertical sided portions - only when things get wider - such as on the Y part of your support at the intersection of the Y. Once you are done with the intersection the two upper arms of the Y will be fine. It is caused because upper layers are shrinking and pulling hard on the lower layers. Because there is overhang the hinge point makes the edges lift upwards. When printing a cube there is no problem because the hinging means that instead the bottom edge will lift off the print bed (fixable with glue). So what is the solution? Well adding glue helps so that it is harder for the print head to knock it over. If you are watching the print, you can use a putty knife to push down on problem areas while printing. Temperature of PLA does not matter. The affect mostly occurs when cooling from around 80C to air temp. The best fix is a heated chamber. If you graph shrinkage (density versus temperature) PLA is very linear (not perfect but close enough). But PLA is still in glass phase down to about 50C so it is the last bit of cooling where it causes a problem (from around 80C to room temp). So the easiest thing to do on a UM2 is crank the bed temp to 70C. No hotter because PLA will start to melt any hotter than that. Even at 70C PLA is in a glass state. The next thing you can do is cover the front and top of the machine. And/or turn off the fan. Fan helps with some things (stringing, cooling small details faster, bridging) but hurts with other things. If you can get the ambient air temp from 20C up to 40C that will help quite a bit. If you can get it up to 70C you will have zero issues with shrinkage but you may overheat your stepper motors. 40C is a good compromise air temp with 70C on the platform. OR you can design everything so that it won't matter - make all support be the same cross section as you move up the layers.

I'm confused - are you saying the motor can't move it or that your hand can't move it? I guess it's time to loosen the grub screws and see where the problem is. If the long belts are too tight that could be a problem. More likely - something is hitting something in the area of the short belt.