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Stunning what you are doing with this. I just love it. Please put a link to this thread over in the "latest print" topic. Maybe include just a single picture from above.

One more piece of advice - loosen the 4 screws on the print head a few turns before removing the bowden tube - you have to remove the blue clip and push down on that outer ring while lifting on the bowden. Sometimes the blades that hold the bowden in scrape a little bit off the outside of the bowden when you remove it and if you do this too many times then it tends to not stay inside the print head and pops out during prints. If that happens you probably need to get a new bowden. But don't worry about that too much - just go for it.

That's way too much. .1mm of 2.85mm filament covers 2.85^2 / .4^2 or 50X the area of a .4mm by .1mm cylinder which is about 50*.4 or about 20mm of printing in a line. So if you set minimum extrusion before travel and then print less than 20mm it will skip a retraction. I recommend something more like .01mm or 0mm.

I damaged my fan shroud in the same spot for the same reason. I fixed it with kapton tape which can withstand something like 600C. Works great.

Oh - and oozing with warm nozzle when not printing is normal. It's one of the key problems with FDM printing.

In expert settings set both retraction distances to 0mm.

In cura expert retraction settings it is very important to set both minimum distances to zero. If you don't do this Cura will not retract very often at all. Printing one tree at a time is much faster if you are hanging around the printer. All those retractions slow things down. But if you want to leave the printer alone for 2 hours I understand how you might want to print 12 at a time. I would be tempted to just let it print during class and after each print walk over for a few seconds, pull off a print and start the next. By the time you get to print #4 you will be able to do it without interrupting a lesson. It might help to have a clipboard saying the name of the next print to do from the SD card.

If you had read the whole thing or even skimmed it you would realize that this teacher doesn't want to print one-at-a-time because this teacher understands that prints can fail often but usually they fail on the first layer or 2 and yes of course the blobs are related to travels between models also known as stringing.

Yes. This is very confusing. I don't understand it but I was able to change the temperature permanently. I don't know how I did it. I had to try 5 times and in different order of menus. One spool of filament holds enough for maybe 100 prints. When there is only enough filament for 2 more prints, I recommend you throw it away as the filament near the end isn't as good and can break easily. However, some people use every piece and you can use a candle to melt 2 pieces together.

S'il vous plaît ajoutez un espace après la période avant de traduire! S'il vous plaît ajoutez un espace après la période avant de traduire! S'il vous plaît ajoutez un espace après la période avant de traduire!

The UM1 has the same screw head ON EVERYTHING. Too bad they couldn't do that with the um2. I think the screwdriver that comes with it fits quite a few things - for example the screws that hold the panels together perhaps?

I think people get the voucher only if the original schedule was delayed by an additional 2 weeks due to some missing/defective part where they had to halt shipments for a week or two. I think this only happened to a small number of people. But I don't really know. So if you get it within 8 weeks of when you ordered it you are probably not getting a voucher - but hey - I really don't know the details.

I strongly recommend you read about these tests before you do anything: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/2532-prevent-ringing-wobbly-surface-after-sharp-corners/ I recommend doing what that guy did and leaving your jerk a lone and cutting acceleration time in half. It will probably only increase your print time by 10% since your parts are so large (long straight lines compared to say a UM robot). M201 X3000 Y3000 Just add that at the end of your "start" gcode. It sets max accel to 3000mm/sec/sec.

I did just what you are asking once by hand - I hand edited the gcode and just deleted the upper layers that I didn't want.

Your UM2 should have come with a screwdriver for that. It's a very very nice one. It should be in the same bag as with the blue roll of tape and the green grease (for your Z screw). Look for these items. If you are sure you didn't get a screwdriver write a support ticket.

I see the problem - your printer is upside down. (just kidding). The slower you print, the less pressure build up you get in the nozzle, and the less stringing issues you have. Also colder temps help because the filament flows like toothpaste instead of honey but this also requires slower printing. For something like this print consider 20mm/sec, .1mm layers, and 195C or even 190C (it's hard to say as every different color and manufacturer has different viscosity at 190C). And like Illuminarti said - do the settings he recommends or you might not be getting retraction where you need it. Also consider printing this: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:46157

However I recommend setting both of those minimums to 0. Even if you set the minimum extrusion before retraction to 1mm of filament, this translates to quite a bit more printing of .4mm .1mm thick filament - I forget the numbers now but I think it's something like 70mm printing.

Get wider blue tape. And this: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:46157 That's it. Don't get a heated bed. Don't print feet. Don't change the fan shroud (especially that!) as you are likely to make it worse. Do fix the electronics fan if it is noisy.

I don't like cool head lift - it tends to make vertical strings. I wish there was a sideways head pause. The best looking result solution is to print a tower (or print two items) next to your print. I set my minimum speed to 0. Never had a problem with it. I think it was more for the old ultimaker V1 print head which was updated over a year ago.

It is rare to reach the end of the coil. Cura tells you how many meters you need for each print.

If it wasn't shipped by 4pm europe time (morning usa time) then it won't get shipped until Monday likely. You can check DHL to see if it was shipped if you have your ultimaker "R" number. Just replace this link with your R number: www.dhl.com/content/g0/en/express/tracking/shippers_reference.shtml?shipperReference=R000000000&fromDayValue=01&fromMonthValue=12&fromYearValue=2013&toDayValue=30&toMonthValue=12&toYearValue=2013&accountNumber=&countryCodeIndex=&countryCode=

You post on a Friday night at 10pm in europe. What do you expect? You will not get any answers until Monday I'm sure.

I get the red graphs - angle determines print time. There are 2 angles so you have a 2d map of print time. Green graph - I guess material changes due to amount of support material? But why is green graph x axis from 0 to 26? and not 0 to 90? don't understand purple either I guess. Blue graph I assume is the amount of object that has angles over a certain value? 45 degrees? Based on orientation? Or something else?

Interesting. Other's have said that the print head won't turn on until it reaches a temperature above 5C. This has to do with the electronics that report the temp which can't measure temperatures at 0C or colder so it's tough to tell the difference between a failure and temps at or below 0C. I don't know about the new build plate temp sensor on the UM2 - I don't know what technology it uses but I had assumed it was a different technology that can read lower temperatures. I just don't know. But there may be an arbitrary limit of 5C for that as well.

It should be. I have windows 7 though. Please put a space after your period before translating as without the space, google gets confused: "bien.J'ai" = mal "bien. J'ai" = bon Were the fans blowing or sucking? If you are sure that the fans are blowing (not sucking) then try lowering the temp to 200 on the top layer (or all layers) and you also should lower the speed a little - maybe 30mm/sec. Si le ulticontrolleur a la vitesse à 100% et Cura a été fixé à 50mm/sec alors il se déplace à 50mm/sec. Si vous modifiez la vitesse à 200%, il sera alors le double de la vitesse de cura de sorte qu'il sera 100mm/sec. Si vous modifiez la vitesse de 50%, il sera la moitié de la vitesse de cura à 25mm/sec.